QuestionMark

Following this as we have the same issue on 2017 LE2.

Close your screen while standing inside and look at the top curve in the screen door meets the frame. Keep the actual door open as you will not be able to see the gap with the actual windowed door closed. You will clearly see a gap where the door does not meet the frame for the screen door. I think it is just a side effect of the frame being mounted to the curve surface of the trailer. I would not try to bend the screen door to match as I think it would collapse the thin door frame. Simple enough to just add the furry seal. I looked at several different year models while at the rally, including the two 2025 ones on display and the all had the same gap. Hope that helps.

On the screen door. I will take a photo of it next time I go out to the trailer. Also, when in Alaska we asked the locals what was the best way to get ride of the mosquitos once they get into the trailer as they are extremely hard to "get" with all the curved surfaces in our trailers. Answer we got and we have since proved it works great is "Windex spray bottle on mist. Knocks them right out of the air and it smells good at the same time". Also, helps keep the trailer all nice and shiny inside when we wipe it clean. LOL.

Yes, I have noticed that all the screen doors on the Oliver trailers (many different year models) do not match the curve in the fiberglass. This is what I used when going to Alaska to keep the mosquitos out. https://a.co/d/7h8kzG5 It is weather stripping (furry stuff that is on the screen door from factory). I just put some on the opposite surface where it does not meet. Worked well and still on the trailer 2 years later.

Happy to report I was able to source a new gasket for the connection between the Shower drain and the ABS piping. It is called a "Coupling Washer 1-3/4" OD 1-3/8" ID" and can be purchased at a local hardware store for less than 2 bucks. Upon replacing the coupling washer and reinstalling the p trap with a little bit of pipe dope on the lower connection, I am happy to report it no longer leaks. BTW: I did have to remove the 3" Black Tank connection to provide me with enough room to get the p trap out and back. Also recommend you get a small strap wrench to loosen and tighten the drain p trap as it is really hard to reach and twist. In case anyone else find that they need the adaptor fitting that goes into the poly black tank, I was able to cross reference a partial part number and come up with the name as an ICON Technologies Limited Model # 12511 Holding Tank Fitting 3" Hub Fitting. It is available on Amazon for less than $10 or on camping world's website for around $5. Also note that Oliver service indicated that they have changed this drain design several times since 2017, so your setup might be much different and require other parts.

Just discovered I have a similar leak at the lower threaded fitting below the shower on the downstream side of the p trap. Any update on how to proceed? Called Oliver and they indicated they can't really help me source new PVC pieces so I can fix myself. The larger PVC is for the black tank drain that inserts into the black tank. Has an o-ring section that appears was broken due to over tightening during the build. Not really an issue for us as we have compost and do not use the black tank for anything. Would like to replace with new if I could find the PVC piece and rebuild to it would be as good as new. As for the p trap, not sure if it is leaking at the lower fitting or has a hairline crack somewhere. The hard to find piece is the connector that attaches to the shower drain. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Will head to a larger hardware store (Lowes and/or Home Depot) to see what I can find to rebuild.

The site listed above and one other were the only ones I found that would sell it directly. The Omnioutdoorliving was $1,000 less than the other. I found them both with a simple google search for a DLE60C Aquago. Hope it helps anyone else who needs a replacement and does not want to wait for a service center to get to you. I registered it once installed so I get the 1 year warranty with no issues.

Figured I would post here in addition to my post on FB group for those who might want info and not on FB. In addition note that the copper is an odd size and uses push-to-connect fitting on tank so I was unable to rebuild. From all appearances, I looks like a factory defect along with Oliver not installing the screws that hold the copper tubing secure to the back of the unit. Not sure why they would have removed or is the unit had been worked on before we acquired the trailer in 22. “””””””””””””””””””””” Hull #293 here. Just replaced our Truma myself as the internal outlet copper line had a factory defect that finally started to leak (see photo). It made if for about 7 years until it started to show a drip after traveling. Oliver service did not have time when we were there for the twin bed conversion. I took a borescope and could see it was not the mixing vessel or tank that Oliver service said is common repairs for leaks. Was a fairly easy removal of the old unit and simple enough to take off the cover to look more closely. Perhaps someone would feel confident trying to repair the crack but I decided to not risk future problems and just replace the unit with a new one. Purchased online from omnioutdoorliving.com for ~$1,399 and it arrived the next day shipping directly from the Truma warehouse in IN. Shipping was free as well! Could not have asked for better service. Bought a roll of butyl tape to seal the new unit to the Oliver as was done at the factory install in 2017. Installation took about 30-40 min and the new unit works flawlessly. Now I have an older unit for parts if I ever need it in the future. Looked at other options for a typical water heater and determined it would be about half the cost. Wife said she really liked the instant hot water so I went with the exact replacement. Individual choice, so your call on path forward.

F43, Mark and Cyndi, Texas, “The Shuttle”, Hull 293

John, Our stickers look almost the same with (Hull 293) the 6339056 number listed. Just checking to see if you happen to notice that the numbers etched on the Axle tubes are exactly the same. Sadly, I was not able to secure both stickers as the trailer has traveled many miles and I was lucky to get the one. I did take your advice on writing the Nuera contact to see if I could get a configuration listing and perhaps an answer to the dual L/N numbers on both axles. Thanks again for all your input.

Thinking my mileage is slightly better due to me having the 3.31 differential. Rig runs low rpm’s while traveling highway speeds and the trailer is so light I really do not need the higher ratio diff. Also run with hotshots every day treatment (EDT) added to the tank with each fill-up.

2020 F250 w/ 6.7 diesel. Towed around 60K miles so far and averaging just shy of 16 mpg while towing all around the US and Canada (Alaska, Maine, PEI, etc.... Another benefit is you get a much larger tank on the diesel (over 400 miles between fill-ups) and can utilize the fuel discount program "Open Roads" to save on every gallon of diesel. In addition you get to use the much nicer and larger commercial truck lanes when filling up. Only complaint my wife has had is that the fill rate on these commercial lanes is much faster and she hardly has time to utilize the facilities (bathroom) before I am ready to go 😀.

Did the same thing a few weeks back. Will miss having the original Michelin Defenders as they were not really showing much wear after 50k+ miles. I went with a set of Bridgestone Dullers as Defenders not being produced any more.

Check out this old post here on the forum (Toshiba EM925A5A-BS):