Ray and Susan Huff

A little off topic, but still regarding generators . . . . . and this is my post, so I guess that's ok 😀 Our plan has changed from getting a tonneau cover to a pickup bed toolbox; my husband feels it will be more versatile, since the pickup is also his everyday vehicle (along with a jeep and a motorcycle). It will be used to secure some tools, trailer gear, 12v portable air compressor, and a portable generator. In sizing up cross-body toolboxes, it seems they are just shy of being deep enough to carry our anticipated Yamaha 2200i. I haven't seen this question answered elsewhere, so here goes: Can the portable generator be stored laying on its side, or at least tipped slightly for transport? Where do others carry a smallish portable generator? The generator in questions has dimensions of 21.9 L x 11.8 W x 18.5 H.

Do you know something I don't about Yamaha availability????

So, you're saying you don't need the neutral ground plug when connected to generator for power? Has anyone else experienced this? I won't be able to try it until we get a generator . . . . whenever that might be! So here's a dumb question: We've never run a trailer on generator power; our precious RV had a built-in generator. Do you start the generator, then plug in the power cord or plug in the power cord, then start the generator? Or, does it matter . . . . .

I don't know if ours has the same grommet; we have the new Dometic stove with the cast iron grate. On the new stove there are 4 grommets, one at each corner, with holes where a pin on the corner of the grate fits in. We were a couple of days out from Hohenwald when I discovered two of these were missing. I called Oliver and they had some and sent them in the mail. There are also smaller rubber bumpers that the glass cover rests on when closed. Is this the new stove Oliver is installing now . . . . the one with the one piece cast iron grate that covers the entire cooktop? Ours was missing two; Oliver sent new ones. I think our Ace Hardware has the ones you mentioned.

So, in regards to needing an adapter to use either outlet with the Oliver power cord, the question in my mind still remains: is there room on the plug panel of the standard Honda (with two 20 amp plugs) to accommodate the neutral ground plug (necessary for the onboard surge protector to operate while using generator power) and the adapter for the Oliver power cord to plug in to the second receptacle? Also, without a 30 amp plug, and connecting the Oliver power cord to the 20 amp plug, will any additional load in combination with running the a/c trip the generator, as it often will when plugged in to a 20 amp home plug?

While the battery blanket solves the problem of warming lithium batteries in freezing temperatures, a recent post brought up the question of how to keep the batteries cool in extreme heat. So, you are saying that running a fan in the cabin will circulate cool air below. Will this be enough to keep the battery compartment cool? Unless outdoor temps are above 90 degrees, is overheating the batteries a problem, or can the heat inside the hull exceed the outdoor temperature? With average daily temps in the 40's in our PNW, it will be several months before we can determine whether overheating of the batteries is a problem in our case. Regarding holes in the battery box, are you referring to adding holes in addition to the four already present in the battery compartment hatch, like holes allowing air to enter the battery box from inside the cabin? If a fan is the solution, it would be nice if it were thermostatically controlled. Could this somehow be connected with the heat blanket thermostat that monitors the internal temperature of the lithium battery: battery temp drops below 35 degrees, heat blanket turns on; battery temp exceeds upper threshold, fan engages? I know either the Xantrex Pro 3000w or the power converter/charger (I'm not real clear on the components of the power system) already has a fan, as we hear it running when we first connect to shore power. More possibilities to ponder.

Edit: I haven't tested the alarm theory, but I'm not certain the Norcold in the Elite II has an alarm; might just be a flashing light. I know, our Dometic in our previous RV had an audible alarm if it lost power or the door was not closed. Guess I'd better read the manual 😀

I've been wondering if a 100amp portable solar panel is sufficient to keep lithium batteries charged as we often camp in shaded campgrounds. And I agree with the solar panels helping recharge batteries during transit.

Is there room for the neutral ground plug on the Honda?

I did not realize the Honda companion 2200i has the 30 amp plug; I wonder why the standard does not. So, can the companion model be used alone? One concern in having to use an adapter plug to connect the Oliver power cord to the standard outlet is this: is there room between the two 20amp receptacles (on the 2200i standard modle) to plug a neutral ground plug into one of the outlets so the Oliver surge protector can be fuctional and still have room for the Oliver power cord plug? I believe both Honda and Yamaha are good generators. The Honda is rated a bit quieter, though I would want to hear them in a side by side comparison to see if the difference is discernable. The Yamaha has a bit larger fuel tank, and thus a longer average run time. I like the handle configuration of the Yamaha, as it accommodates one or two person transport. Yamaha also has a fuel gauge. For the time being, we can always use our larger 3,100W less-portable generator

Thanks for sharing your experience . . . . according to amp/wattage specs of the Yamaha 2200i, it should, as would your Honda, run the 11,000 BTU Dometic just fine; in conversing with Yamaha, they concur.

I thought I would find answers here, but no . . . . We are still trying to procure a Yamaha 2200i generator for our 2021 Elite II. We prefer the Yamaha over Honda mostly for the fact that it has a 30amp plug; Honda does not. Sadly Covid, hurricanes and wildfires have depleted the supply chain, at least for Yamahas. I've been trying, since October to procure one, to no avail. I email suppliers regularly: October: When do you expect the Yamaha 2200i to be available? Answer: Most likely sometime in December. Ask to be put on an email notification list." Today's answer: Not until Spring. Perhaps you'd like a 3,000W? Me: Already have a 3,100W; want something quieter and more portable that can be carried in our pickup bed tool box. We will have the 2,000i in stock next week. Me: Need it to occasionally run A/C We can sell you two! Now Spencer Savage @ Yamaha is telling me the 2200i won't run the A/C. I'm reading older posts of some Oliver owners, in the past, running a 13,500BTU with a 2,000W generator. Oliver now comes equipped with a 11,000 BTU A/C and I can't run it with a 2200i generator? (Lithium Pro Pkg with soft-start option) At least we won't need A/C for a few months; really don't want to tote around our 3,100W 125# generator for occasional use of high wattage appliances and cooling, not to mention how to keep it from being stolen. My question for Oliver owners out there lucky enough to have a Yamaha 2200i, or even the Honda version: is this the generator we want, assuming we can find one?

The west coast mountains were our biggest concern, as well; we were able to avoid mountain passes elsewhere. I'm glad our delivery was bumped up to the first part of December from the first part of February. We aren't snow people, but good to know we can still enjoy RV life pretty much year round; might have to stick to the coast for a couple of months out of the year, but heh . . . . what a great place to live!

We are happy with our wet bath. While situating the bathroom at the front of the trailer does have the downside of eliminating panoramic windows in the dining area, it has advantages: 1. No need for glass protection for forward facing windows 2. A mid-ship located bathroom breaks the floor plan into two small "rooms"; having the "facilities" at one end gives a more open, spacious floor plan. 3. The front bathroom makes better use of space, allowing a larger bathroom. Additional thoughts: I wonder about the structural integrity of a longer but not wider trailer. The new Escape is the same length as the Elite II. I like the idea of the Oliver's smaller, simpler design; There are plenty of larger trailers with more amenities, for those who desire the qualities you mention, though few are built as well as the Oliver. We love our Elite II

I totally agree. Our "new" BMW was delivered, more or less shrink wrapped, via train and then semi. It was fun to track it as it made it's way from Spartenburg, South Carolina to Medford Oregon. I did worry when it sat for a few days on the train (ironically just a few blocks from where I spent my first 5 years of life in Glendale, CA) waiting for the next train to Oxnard to be processed and turned over to the freight company for trucking to Oregon. All I could think of was "LA graffiti" lol. When it hit the ground at the dealer, it had 5 miles on the odometer and no graffiti! Sorry, I digress . . . . . . Has anyone investigated the cost to ship an Oliver from Hohenwald to anywhere, via flatbed truck? Seems like it would be comparable to the cost to tow. Our Leisure Travel Van delivery from Canada to Oregon was via two units to a flatbed truck, at a cost of $3,000. Flatbed transport would be my preference, though I would not want to forego the experience of the delivery inspection and walkthrough at the Oliver factory.

FYI: our cost to drive to and home from Hohenwald, December 2020 (diesel, hotels, and RV sites), was just shy of $2,000. 8 days to Hohenwald (could have done it in 7 easy, with not too long of days); days home, towing was 6.

Congratulations and welcome to the family! For reference: We drove from SW Oregon to pick up #699, leaving home November 29; it took us 8 days, via I-80, to get to Tennessee. We could have made the trip in 6 or 7 days, but left a few days early to stay ahead of an incoming weather front. We spent 3 days in Tennessee before making the return trip. To avoid snow and inclement weather on the trip home, we chose the I-40 route to Southern CA, then I-5 north to Oregon. Had it been a better time of year, we would have taken our time and done some exploring, but we wanted to be home before Christmas and the weather was not ideal for enjoying the outdoors. For comparison, our cost of delivery was just shy of $2,000 (hotels on the way to Tennessee, fuel (diesel) both ways, and RV accommodations on the trip home. We took food for all of our meals, not knowing what Covid restrictions we might encounter. This worked well; on the trip out the temperatures never reached much above freezing, so keeping food cold in a cooler was not a problem; cooking in hotels was not ideal, but better than a week of take-out fast food. The cost of delivery does not include food, since I figure we had to eat whether on the road or at home. I would recommend taking delivery at Hohenwald; the experience of meeting the Oliver folks and visiting parts of the US we had not seen was time well spent. Had we not, I would have worried the whole time, putting our Oliver in the hands of strangers. You will be traveling during much better weather than we experienced (though I must say we were fortunate in that respect). We encountered one small snow flurry in Eastern Wyoming and not a bit of rain, until we reached Northern CA. If you should choose having your Oliver delivered, I'm sure Oliver can recommend a carrier; I would ask for delivery on a flatbed truck/trailer as opposed to towing, but that's just my opinion. Hope this helps.

We haven't tested them off pavement (or with a can of beer), but none have fallen off the wall during normal travel while loaded with a spray bottle or a bar of soap.

I know where the solar charger disconnect switch is; but the main battery disconnect? And the inverter/charger? Will disconnecting all of these cause the LP/CO monitor to alarm? Also, is there a chart for %SOC to voltage conversion? There are so many questions; hard to think of them all during the walk-through. Just the realization that it is actually "your Oliver" is overwhelming!

So, what is your procedure for putting the batteries into storage? Discharge to 50%, then what? Turn off solar charging? Battery disconnect? Is there a way to limit the SOC to 50% without disconnecting? We're new to lithium batteries in an RV; it seems there are so many variables and methods - no black and white/on and off/yes or no; 😕

Yes, LifeBlue monitor gives info for each battery, individually

Here's an idea for vinegar storage: Find a container for the vinegar that fits in one of these. We have several different types and they work great. @NCeagle I love these little hooks. Use them on the new vanity access hatch or on the wall near the shower bracket for hanging washcloths. Alternately, less expensive suction cup hooks would also work.

$4/gal seems a bit high for propane. In the PNW, it runs $2-3/gal.

Follow-up on delivery: In case any are wondering the cost of lodging, RV sites, and fuel associated with delivery, here are expenses of our 5,000 mile (plus a little bit) trip from the Southern Oregon coast to Howenwald and home again (rounded to the nearest dollar): Fuel - $927 (diesel) Average mpg 14.30; mpg affected by driving conditions - windy and cold conditions on I-80 all the way from Utah through Nebraska on the trip to Tennessee. Average mpg towing on the trip home was 12-15. Speed also played a part in mpg since it seems to make a big difference in the 1-ton diesel fuel usage when driving at freeway speeds. Diesel prices High 3.56 (CA) Low 2.08 (NM) Lodging and RV sites - $986 Hotels on the trip to Hohenwald - $734 (8 nights) RV parks on trip home - $252 (6 nights) We took our own food; only ate out three times. Didn't count this as delivery cost since we have to eat anyway. Picked up some supplies - hitch, small tools, etc but all were non-consumable and not included in cost. Total cost of delivery $1,913 Value of adventure, priceless

Looks like running the space heater is fine on 20amp, but not concurrently with the water heater on electric.