2008RN

I more question. I used my last open fuse slot in the 12V side for my composting toilet. If I added heat tape I could increase fuse amperage in the fuse slot I just used and the split off the back side of the panel and put a heat tape fuse and compost fuse under the rear kitchen seat area. If I wanted to add a switch for the heat tape how and where would be the best place to add a switch? How hard would it be to run line to the area above the rear kitchen seat where the truma controller, sea level tank monitor, and inverter controller are located? Sorry if these are dumb questions, I have a lot to learn all about my new Oli. The wiring is just one area out of many areas that I have not wrapped my mind around.

Minnesota Oli and NCeagle, Very informative write ups. I have been thinking about this topic for several days with the new interest in Cold weather camping. I will probably never see the temps like that in Oregon, but I will still see temps regularly below freezing. I have just installed a compost toilet, and disconnected and drained the Regular toilet line, and do not have to worry about that, or the black tank. I do have a few questions: Minnesota Oli: 1. Did you leave the ends of the flexible heating pipe open? 2. Was the only other opening the hole in the straight pipe, or did you poke any holes in the heating pipe around where the check valve are at? 3. Where did you source the mounting bracket holding the straight tube below the battery compartment? NCeagle: Was the smart bilge fan 12v or 120V? For both of you, and anyone else: Both of the ideas that sound like they would work great while parked. I think the heating tape would work while on the road. I have a Truma water heater. I am not sure about leaving the heater and Truma gas on while on the road in order to keep everything warm while traveling. Any ideas?

We are with State Farm for all of our vehicles. I gave the itemized list of options with the total cost from Oliver, State Dam said they would use this as a base cost. They are charging $240 per year with a $1000 deductible.

Thanks everyone for the info

I just had another thought. Is the switch in the bathroom for the pump really necessary? It seems redundant with the pump switch on the SeaLevel II Tank Monitor. I could just use the present pump switch in the bathroom for a Compost fan switch.

Does anyone know a source for the bathroom waterproof switch. There are 2 switches; the pump switch and the light switch under the cabinet. I was thinking about putting in a switch to turn the composting toilet fan on/off.

I bought the Camp Chef 2 burner this summer, and it works great. you need to quick connect fitting with a Female pipe thread, and a quick connect hose. The regulator will screw right off, leaving a male 1/4 in pipe thread I believe. The quick connect fitting will end up sticking out about 2" inches from the side on the stove.

Interesting, yes it looks they used 2 flanges, one on each side. thanks for the pictures, Gives me more ideas.

John, I was looking at your posting on the NH install. The exhaust tubing flange I received is flat on one side and has the hub on the other for attaching the tube. Is the the same flange that you have? Did you pipe into the plumbing exhaust? if how? The tubing fits a 1-1/4" white PVC pipe. I was going to Tee into the trailer waste exhaust ABS with the white PVC. I could cut a 1-3/4" hole in the side of the cabinet and then chalk back around the PVC pipe (1.675 OD). It isn't the cleanest install with the PVC pipe, but I couldn't figure out how to make the install work with the flange they sent me. Edit, Added picture:

After waiting 3 month for my natures head toilet, I 'm now starting the conversion. I removed the toilet. But now I'm scratching my head how to get the mounting collar off of the Black tank. I have read that you can remove the waste plumbing and put a cap on the tank. I was able to twist and pry the collar up about a half inch which took over 1 hour worth of work to get it this far. I was hoping the collar was screwed into a fitting, but it does not to appear to be. I have tried to access the top of the tank from the kitchen seat, and from inside the bathroom cabinet. There is not enough room to get my fingers on to the top of the tank. Any help/ideas?

Thanks everyone, Seeing this post was God sent. So we are out camping/ boondocking for the first time ever in the Oli. I tested all of the other systems at home accept the truma. I flip the switch on the on the truma in the outside bay. No hot water. We spent last night without hot water. I looked all over for a gas shutoff for the truma, I could hear the the igniter try to start, but didn’t get hot water. How I didn’t pay attention to the 2.5”x3” controller on the wall beats me. I saw this post the first thing I logged on the forum. So I looked at the main switch panel; No switch. Then over to the systems control area by the pantry, and there it was. Now I can get cleaned up with hot water! BTW, we went all night and the AGM batteries only got down to 12.7. That included a little heat and a movie. But now I’m off topic. take care everyone.

When We purchased our Oli in April 2021, The owner of the Oliver brought it to the bank and The bank wired the money to his account. The bill of sale was notarized, and then the old owner delivered it to our house ( We did have a truck to tow it). That day we found a good deal on a low mile diesel F250 and paid in $100 bills. Had the bills still in the wrappers and the receipt from the bank from pulling out the funds.

Thanks for the ideas

I am in the middle of building a frame for a storage unit that will bolt on were the bicycle rack is. I would like it mimic the finish on the support structure so it matches the rest of the aluminum on the Oli. Does anyone know how Oliver does the finish on the aluminum. Thanks,

John, I just received my aluminum for the frame, and was going to un-bolt the old receiver rack supports. From what you wrote, I decided to spray the bolts/nuts with penetrating oil and let it set overnight to hopefully advert some of the problems with the stainless bolts seizing. I went out with a couple of 18" breaker bars to get the bolts off. I was already thinking of what steal tubing I had to make a extension for the breaker bars. The first nut I tried virtually had no pressure on it so I dropped back to a ratchet. I had to laugh, I'm guessing that there was less than 25 in/lbs of torque on all of those those nuts. I'm Fortunate that the receiver assembly just didn't fall off.

Congrats things really worked out. I know we are blessed to get our Oli

John Davies, Seadog, Thanks for the insights.

I am in the process of designing a holder on the back of the Oli something a kin to what John E Davies did only using a Semi underbelly storage box for storing stuff. I have the New style bicycle rack receiver on the back of my Oli. I decided to pull of the bike rack receiver and it was full of water inside of the tube. When I turned it upside down water came gushing out. ie: the bottom half was water tight. The old is now 1 year old, and has spent the last 3 months outside. (I just got my permit and engineered plans back from the county so I can start on a 3 sided RV port.) The rack had only seen about a month of rain here, and what ever washing to had in the last year to fill the aluminum cavity with water. For those that have a bike rack hitch. You may want to check your rack. If I was to keep the rack I would drill a couple of holes on the bottom to allow water out. Back to the subject. This got me thinking about galvanic corrosion using SS bolts/washers/against the 6061-T6 aluminum. It does not look like Oliver has done anything to offset the Galvanic corrosion. Am I making to big of a deal about this? What have other people done to mitigate the dissimilar metal? Also I have some 7000 series aluminum lying around that I thought about using for backing plates. I think that the Semi storage box is probably either 3000 or 5000 series, but I am just guessing. The structural aluminum I will uses will be 6061-T6. Do you have to worry about Galvanic corrosion between differing series of Aluminum?

Sorry Texasguy, I meant to quote Ray and Susan Huff from Oregon. That is what I get for using my phone at work.

is this the one in Coburg/ Eugene

I have been looking for a good collapsible table, do you happen to know the manufacture of the table.

I have been reading about the Camp Chef Ranger II 2-Burner Stove works on RV Low pressure. You will just need to get a flared female to quick connect male fitting. I just ordered one from Cabelas for $120 (shipping free). I will post how it works for heating up a pan of water. Here is a good review for a 3 burner: https://popupbackpacker.com/champ-chef-ranger-iii-stove-almost-perfect/ The 2 burner is the same exact design as the 3 burner only 2 burners and 10 lbs lighter.

Well, I fixed it sort of. I decided to take the Q1200 apart. I removed the orifice, and reamed it out a little, with oxygen/acetylene clean out reamers. The orifice was a approx. .032 in and is now around .035" around a 20% area increase. I put it back on. No longer tops out at 200 degrees, but now hits 450 degrees, and on low is 350 degrees. I think that the real problem was that the orifice was being partially block by something. I am now running a little hot. Oops. I may see if I can find a replacement orifice and go back to the original size. I can at least grill.

This is the torjik package, This only real difference is they use a 1/8 pipe nipple about 3 inches long, then they add the quick connect. The blue little disc clamps around the nipple and then attaches to the Weber sheet metal that use to hold the regulator. It really sturdies up all the fittings when you push the quick connect hose on. I did get ahold of Torjik, and they said it was most likely caused from poor quality quick connect on the trailer, too long of a pipe run on the trailer, or too low propane pressure in the trailer. I pointed out to them that the female connector was made by a high quality American company that is suppose to meet specs. and it is 4ft from the tanks. I has tested the fridge and the stove in the Oli and they seem to work fine.

I just crawled under the Oli and from the tanks is a regulator, then a hose to the main copper line that feeds the trailer. from there every thing tees off for all of the appliances as well as the quick connects. So is the pressure the runs the rest of the RV appliances enough to run the Q1200?