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Everything posted by 2008RN

  1. This bull dog shock is a direct replacement for the Monroe 555001 https://www.4statetrucks.com/bulldog-hd-shock-absorber-replaces-555001-19-050000007 I've only have 300 miles on the Bulldogs shocks, They are so much better than the Original Monroes. I bought the trailer 10 months old with 5K miles on it. The original owner basically made 2 trips. One from the factory to Idaho via California, and another trip back to California. I followed the trailer for about 40 miles right after we purchased it. I remember thinking it odd that the trailer like to swayed side to side going down the freeway, but then never thought about it again. Then 2 years later and 2,000 miles, the trailer was moving everywhere on a rougher 2 lane paved road and truck/trailer became difficult the manage. I thought I would give the Bull Dogs a try. The Bull Dogs were the price was about the same as the Monroe 555001 online. Nothing ventured nothing gained. I figured if I bought the Monroes they would be trash in a year to two years depending on the miles I drove. If the Bulldogs make it 2 years then they will have out lasted the Monroes. Next spring I plan on new springs before we take our first big trip cross the nation.
  2. There is not a lot of in depth information on the 555025 shocks, but here is a link for the 555025 https://www.shockwarehouse.com/products/monroe-555025-gasmagnum In my searching I found someone that had replaced the 555001 with a Bilsteins 24-064194, B6 series shock. The following link talks about the installation, and problems that were overcome. It is an interesting read. I searched for the 24-064194 and it appears that Bilstein no longer makes this shock, no one seems to have them available. The down side if you can find them they are very pricey https://heartlandowners.org/threads/bighorn-3260el-shocks.59777/
  3. When I was looking for replacements for the 555001, I did find a Monroe 555025 RV shock which had a higher rating. The only problem was the minimal compression length was 3/4 of and inch longer and I did not know if it would still work in our application so I opted for the Bull Dog 555001 replacement instead. I had found on another site where someone had used the 555025 to replace a 555001 without problems, but it was not for an Oliver
  4. So sorry for the damage. One of my worst fears is doing what happened to you. We all, or most of us get carried away and make a mistake. My better half has stop me a couple of times on the steps. We setup camp in a pouring rain last week. No checklist, just pumped through it to get out of the rain. I know it is small and minor, but we forgot to turn the fridge back on. 36 hours later the fridge was at 52 degrees and the freezer section was at 30 degrees. First thing out of my wife's mouth was we are getting to lax and need to be at least checking our work with the checklist. Thanks for the saftey reminder, we all need it!
  5. I finally had a chance to try out the Bulldog HD shocks I put on the Oli. I put 300 miles on them this last week. Most of it was on small 2 lane roads that had some rough areas. I did go over a 40 mile stretch that I did last September, It made a world of difference. The trailer did not sway all over like it did before. I could feel the difference in the drivers seat of how the trailer rode. I truely think the shocks where pretty much shot when I got the trailer 3 years ago and it was 10 months old at that time. I remember following the trailer for about 20 miles and you could see the top of the trailer swaying side to side about 4-5" going down the freeway with small road imperfections. Now on rough roads the sway is less than 2". The price was comparable to online Monroe shocks. if the Bulldogs last 4 years, I will be happy and buy them again. here is the link to where I bought them: https://www.4statetrucks.com/bulldog-hd-shock-absorber-replaces-555001-19-050000007 FYI: At the same time, I replace the the Oliver's shocks, I replaced the original 1999 shocks on the F250 SD with Bilstein 5100 shocks. The truck does ride a little stiffer but handles what little front to back movement I get on the trailer better. I did have to nail the brakes really hard this weekend when someone cut in front of me and then slammed on the brakes. The TV and camper acted as one, and handled great. Now I will go for the Alcan springs sometime in the next year, before we start the long cross country trips.
  6. Wow! You have a Costco you can park a truck and trailer? Ours is always so packed that I have trouble finding room for the truck.
  7. Or possible mis-rated and/or poor quality 3.5K# Dexters spring packs.
  8. This is what I used with the DC-DC converter setup. Expanded PVC Foam Board, White, 3/4" (0.75", 19MM) Thick, 12" W x 36" L https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09K2YR21N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 I used the 3/4" thick instead of 1/2" thick so I could have a few more threads on the screws holding things.
  9. I always Assumed that Oliver used epoxy. It matches so well with the existing fiberglass epoxy that they use in the shell. They must use tons of the epoxy. When I installed my DC-DC charger setup. I used JB weld. I sand the fiberglass surface and mating Marine board with 60 grit sandpaper. I then roughly cross hatched both surfaces with either a angle grinder with .060 cutoff wheel, or used a dremel. I just wanted to make sure it was going to get the best possible adherence. Oliver's joints have been known to fail. I have had 2 joints fail of what Oliver did at the factory. I don't know if JB weld it any better than their epoxy, but the failed parts had smooth surfaces. It sure can't hurt to give the surface more to adhere to.
  10. Wow, The plot thickens. I think we could make a Johnny Cash song out of this, trying to figure out what is on our "supposed" Dexter Axles.
  11. if you need it right now, you can google "DYI neutral ground plug" or "DYI neutral bond plug" and make one today. All it takes is a screw driver, 120V 15amp plug, and 2" of wire (I used 12ga 20Amp)
  12. @John Welte, The humidity content is horrendous here in the winter we had so many days this year with greater than 90% humidity. We have a 3 sided metal RV port with tarps for the doors, so direct rain/snow is not on the Oli. We also can keep the Oli plugged in full time. The outside of the Oli itself during the winter along with the cement floor and the inside walls of the port would get dripping wet with moisture from the humidity. The first couple of years I opened the bathroom vent, and then turn the Maxair fan on it's lowest setting and l had the blinds completely open leaving the fan run all winter. I learned from winter camping out here if we did have constant air flow the insides of the trailer would be wet. This last year, I was so busy working on the inside of the trailer, that I left a little electric heater set to around 55 degrees in the Oli and lock the Oli up tight, with all the vents closed. This year worked much better at lowering the humidity level in the trailer, although the electric bills were higher.
  13. Ya that makes sense, greaseing the wet bolts has been a little bit of a pain on my Oli. I can get most to the wet bolts greased while it is setting on the ground, but a couple of them I had to jack up the trailer to remove pressure in order to get them greased.
  14. @MAX Burner Fantastic documentation. I know I will be using it in the future. Thanks for all of the hard work.
  15. My 2020 LEII also measure within a couple thousands of 3", and I have the same brake assembly as @mountainoliver.
  16. Supply and demand, Honda supplies us with what they want and demand we buy it. Since they are "Honda" people will buy it, just like other big big manufactures like Apple. BTW, I own both Honda and Apple products, and sometime get frustrated with them both. But the quality is there.
  17. I also have the D35 Label. Does that mean that I should not update to the Alcan 2,000# springs. I run between 6,300 and 6,500 on the scales. I would not mind that little extra stiffness. I replaced the original Monroe shocks this winter (3 were shot with 8,000 miles on the Oli) with Bulldog HD shocks. I haven't had a chance to take her out on the rougher windy 2 lane roads yet. Darn, I was really hoping that I was going to have the D52 axles!
  18. I like that. After living in CO for 48 years, I have shoveled tons of snow in bright sunshine, and several times in shorts and snow boots. In Oregon we usually get only get 1-3 days of snow a year, and 240+ days of gray skies. I kind of forget what the sun looks like or where it is at. So, I don't have to worry at what angle the sun is to the trailer. GO Buffs
  19. We have a pretty big problem with winter condensation with humidity often in the high 80s and 90s. We usually do not get below freezing much (except for last week). We crack the bathroom fan open, and turn on the Maxair to it's lowest setting. We also keep the heater around 68 during the day and 60 at night. We do end up wiping the inside window a couple of times a day.
  20. I never thought about mounting at 90 degrees. The was a great idea for mounting the charger using that little space. I also like hearing about the real world experience. I am hoping that my test for an hour in a closed compartment, will be relevant in the real world. If I do have problems with heat, I could try opening the deck plate to see if I could get little air flow in there.
  21. My project was little more expensive. with Victron dual chargers, wire, alternator, shunt and miscellaneous like Anderson connecters, buss bars, breakers, fuses, wire sheathing, battery shut off, and lugs, heat shrink, crimper... I think my total cost approximated $1900. I pulled the fuel tank to properly run the wire in the frame rail something RV solar installer probably would not have done. I Ran wire sheathing on all cable except the actual board with the chargers. Anything that had any rub potential was covered. I ran a jumper cable between the truck and Oliver so that If I didn't need to charge while traveling I just wouldn't hook it up. Also makes it clean when parking. The Official Anderson connectors are not cheap, (knock offs are available). My cost would have been a lot less if I knew ahead of time the new Victron 50Amp charger was coming out. I could have lived with the 50Amp efficient DC-DC charger. I planned on a max of 100 amps input from the truck to run the amps, with my testing I maxed out at 88-89 Amps. With the new 50Amp charger I would bet 60Amp max input would be need, and I would wire for 70 Amps. That would have cut down on all cost of virtually every item and probably cut cost by about $500. Just an FYI I bought 47' (x2) of wire to run from the front of my F250 extended cab with 8' bed to just aft of the of the Oli battery bank. I had about 2' extra of each red, and black wire. Also as a side note, I bought wire from battery cables usa. I got the extreme battery cable. Very fine wire like welding cable. double sheathing (hard intercore and flexible outercore. Also the inside Copper wire OD was larger than spec. I like the extra safety margin with slightly lower Ohms and more carrying capacity. I only thing is that on 1/0 to 4/0 wires it was almost a press fit( it takes force to put the wire in the lug. I just couldn't strip the sheathing back and put the lug on. I had to use a 2 step process.
  22. Very Cool, Unfortunately I'm a day late and a dollar short. I had everything built a week ago besides the chargers added. I purchased the chargers last Friday, installed them Saturday and tested today. It would have simplified my whole design. Smaller wires, no fans, and simplified and smaller foot print. Here is what my install looked like. I epoxied a 1/2" marine white board to the wheel well. Attached everything to a piece of 3/4" marine board and then attached the 3/4" board to the 1/2" board. Space was definitely at a premium. My test showed each charger at 38Amps before warm up. After one hour one charger was 34Amps at 96degrees F, and the orther 32.5 amps @ 100degrees F. Victron rates the 12-12/30 at 104 degrees F. Anything over 104F the Amps decrease below 30 F. I have heard as low as 25 degrees F each pair of fans positive lines are connected to the Optifuse breaker. So I can turn off either of the chargers and associated fans from the other charger. This is the 1/2 base.
  23. On my Oli I used the top of the wheel well under the street side bed. It was a nice large platform, I had to move the cable for the back dump valve a little. Main I un-taped the cable and pulled it out from the wall. it was a win-win the cable now has a larger arc and pulls/pushes much easier. I was disappointed in the mighty F250 alternator. It is suppose to be a 110A alternator. Max amps I could every reach was 75Amps. That was on a cold morning after the glow plugs had been on for 2 minutes (210 Amp) draw, and a 10 seconds on the starter at 850Amps. I only tested the new alternator once, but on a cold startup it jumped up to around 130 Amps, then dropped down to about 85 Amps for a while then started to slowly drop down. I found my Oli used, it was 9 months old. The nice thing, was If I was going to order it from the factory, it had almost everything I needed. Thanks for the heads up, Ours are just over 3 years old. knock on wood, they seem to all be working fine right now and do not seem to have any swelling yet. I have looked at some batteries, but haven't made my mind up yet, I had figured that I still had time. The Lithionics batteries seem really nice, the Cadillac of batteries. Boy are they expensive, As of about 6 months ago, I was reading about failures with battle born.
  24. I boon dock, a lot more than I stay in a park with utilities . So being able to charge the batteries when traveling is nice luxury. Once I retire we plan being out for at least a couple of months once or twice a year. It is great staying a 2-3 days in once spot and then move down the road and being able to make a big dent in getting the batteries charged. I have been planning/researching this upgrade for over a year, and have spent 4 months methodically upgrading the truck and camper. I upgraded my alternator on my F250 Super duty diesel to handle the load. I have updated wiring in the truck; The alternator to one battery with 4/0 wire. The positive wire between batteries was upgraded to 2/0. I also upgrade grounds from battery to engine, frame and body to 2/0 wire. I ran 2/0 wiring to the Oli. In the Oli, I put in both Positive and negative buss bars and ran 4/0 wires from the batteries to the buss bars cleaning up the battery compartment and getting all connection in the bay. Long term I would like to move to lithium batteries. It sounds like a few of you think I'm crazy doing this. I could never afford to pay someone to do this type of endeavor. Fortunately some people have done this and were successful. I also have to thank Victron technical support for helping pave the way. @jd1923: I will try to get a hold of the manufacture for the specs on charging.
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