Ronbrink
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Posts posted by Ronbrink
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On 3/7/2024 at 3:13 AM, ScubaRx said:
There has been some recent owner interest in obtaining the Dexter Nev-R- Lube hubs. This requires a complete axle swap as they are not compatible with the axles all the older trailers (pre-2022) are equipped with. If you are contemplating ditching the OEM 3500 pound axles for the new setups with the higher rated axles, be aware of this spring issue. I can personally attest to knowing of at least 10 spring failures on the 4-Leaf spring packs on both the older trailers and a few that have recently been delivered over the past year or so. All of these springs have broken in exactly the same place. Also, I have never heard of a single failure in any of the trailers that are equipped with the 5200 pound axle with the 5-Leaf spring pack. This includes all the Elites ever built and, to my knowledge, none of the Elites II’s that were originally built with the 5200 pound axles and the 5-Leaf spring packs.
When doing a complete axle swap from 3500 to 5200, is the wheel bolt pattern the same for each axle or do the wheels have to be changed, as well?
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To @Jason Foster’s point, simply remove the faucet/shower head from the pullout hose at the sink and check the flow at the unobstructed hose end. This may help to determine if a clogged head is the problem.
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9 hours ago, Jason Foster said:
Do you find the DuroMax sufficient for everything or just to get through the night?
Prior to upgrading to LFPs and installing a dedicated transfer switch to enable operation of the A/C via the new battery bank, the DuroMax was primarily used for A/C (with Micro-Air Easy Start) during lunch/rest stops and off-grid overnight stays when traveling. Now it is mostly used for A/C, as needed; fueled by a dedicated 30# propane tank carried under cap in the TV. However, as with most small generators the A/C is temporarily turned off to use the microwave, otherwise it is a sufficient power source for all else, including charging the batteries. To date I have not changed the Xantrex’s setting 28 to lower charging amps as many suggest, but may give it a try to see if there is any difference.
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On 3/19/2024 at 10:35 PM, Jason Foster said:
I have a Cummins 4500i and it runs like a scalded dog. Proudly made in America, it looks good sitting on the tailgate of my Ram 2500 which, by the way, is also powered by the 4500i's big brother.
Looks exactly like my Westinghouse 4500i, other than the dual-fuel feature on my model. Long run time and enough to power the Oliver 24/7 during hurricane evacuations or any other necessary stays of duration. I also carry a smaller DF for overnighting with A/C.
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8 hours ago, rideadeuce said:
Everyone with an E2 needs to check theirs to make sure it is a 7k version and not a 5K.
Good advice! I was able to pan in on a pic to confirm my BD. Also noticed your 5K is Hitch Class 3 (lll), whereas the 7K is Class 4 (lV).
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To @jd1923’s point, my 2020 OLEll has the 3500 LB axles with the described square pattern 4 bolt axle connection.
D35 axle label confirmation.
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As @SeaDawg mentioned earlier, an interior fan can be installed, as well. I have the Norcold 3 way, which does not have a refrigerator light to access power for this fan; thus the wire will need to connect to a constant power source behind the fridge. Thanks to @MAX Burner for pointing that out. Hopefully there will be a convenient routing path without having to drill a hole to gain access for power. Mounting this fan is easy, alligator clips to the evaporator fins.
My combo:
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8 hours ago, jd1923 said:
My street bike is a 1984 GL1200, just hit it's 40th anniversary! I know y'all are biased, thinking nothing prettier than a kept Oliver, right? This old classic looks pretty good for 40, right! I'd say older, mo' better!
I tend to agree, the key word is ‘classic’! This is my ‘82 CJ-8 Scrambler, less than 70,000 made in the 1980-1985 model years.
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8 hours ago, Jason Foster said:
Now I just use my nose.
From my many years of HAZMAT training and environmental responses, always be mindful that one can quickly become desensitized to smells, even the mercaptan odorant in propane! I often got a whiff or two, but then nothing further and moved on. I now get the sniffer to further investigate for piece of mind if nothing else. Thanks for clarifying your previous statement and advise to others less experienced!
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21 hours ago, Rivernerd said:
Below is a photo of the other side of the bath return air vent, taken from underneath the front dinette seat.
Any concerns of moisture being drawn from the wet bath through said bath return vent into the underbelly? I know when running the ceiling exhaust fan while showering that the wet bath has negative pressure and air is subsequently drawn in through the warm air duct whether the furnace is running or not. Post shower, if the fan is turned off before the wet bath throughly dries it seems any excess moisture could pose an issue, especially if the furnace is on. Personally, I squeegee the bath interior as best possible and keep the door closed with the fan running until completely dry to lessen the chance of raising the humidity level in the cabin proper.
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51 minutes ago, topgun2 said:
THIS is the Garmin 2023 SOS Year In Review link.
While I firmly believe in satellite SOS devices for those of us that often travel in places that do not have cell phone coverage, and I personally have a Garmin InReach device, the purpose of the link is to gain knowledge as to the kinds of activities and places where these activities take place such that we can be better prepared in the event we need help. There is some really interesting data contained in this fairly brief report.
Bill
Last summer I traveled to West Texas on my first ‘solo’ Oliver adventure, Davis Mountains SP to be exact. I purchased an inReach to carry with to lessen my wife’s concern of my personal safety in the event of an accident or other event, and ability to communicate due to weak cell service. The plan I choose can be suspended to lessen the cost; the SAR insurance was purchased, as well. Prior to our next adventure, I will purchase the insurance coverage for my wife. Here’s a couple pics of me hiking on and off the trail in 110° heat, note the inReach on my right hip.
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On 2/26/2024 at 4:07 PM, MAX Burner said:
The rubber cap was not inserted when doing the leak test - figuring if the QD was leaky, the cap might have plugged the leak. But the test can be redone with the cap inserted...
Enter the sniffer, a recent Amazon purchase routinely put to good use to eliminate any fear of a minor leak! If ever a tank is opened for use, a quick check is performed. Furthermore, I keep the MB Sturgis protective plugs and caps on all of my fittings and hose ends, even on hoses that are rolled and stowed with mating ends connected. Oftentimes when deployed they are laid out on the ground and the protectors ensure a clean/debris-free connection.
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15 hours ago, dewdev said:
There are also hand held measuring devices that you scribe along the side of the tank to determine where the liquid level is inside the tank, such as:
1. Dometic makes a measuring device, model GC-100, $68.99
2. Truma also makes a similiar measuring device - $74.79
So my question is regarding only the two numbered devices above. For those that have used either of the devices, did they work ok and were you happy with the devices and would you recommend for purchase?
I purchased a Dometic LPGC10 model in 2020 and it is fairly accurate to date. It can be a bit finicky at times, mostly due to the device not being held perpendicular to the tank, as required. That may seem like a simple task, but when reaching in and looking downward, there is a degree of difficulty involved. A green light indicates gas, but sometimes defining the tank level is difficult in that the indicator light will toggle red/green; however further adjustment(s) will ultimately determine the tank level. In a brief look at the current Amazon ratings between the two devices, the Truma may prove better; perhaps a user of that device will chime in. I like having such a device, and if/when my Dometic fails, I will research the Truma.
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23 hours ago, Mike and Carol said:
We only have the front quick connect and I use it all the time. We opted not to get one in the rear, but the line is run and terminates in the back, it just doesn’t have a connector on it. I don’t know if everyone gets lines run whether you opt for the connection or not, but it might be good to double check. Mike
I passed on the propane QC (Quick-Disconnect) port option to save money, knowing that Oliver runs a terminated line to the rear. I now have fore and aft QC ports on my 2020 OLEll. Here’s what I did:
The terminus line cap was simply removed and an MB Sturgis Quick-Disconnect valve fitting installed. This port is primarily used to fuel my Blackstone griddle, which is generally set up at or near the rear of the trailer, or to the curbside if there is a picnic table of close proximity.
For the forward QC port, a ‘T’ fitting was installed in the existing line connection. A short hose was then installed leading to within reach through the propane housing screw port where another MB Sturgis valve was positioned. I did not want the QC port located low and exposed in like manner to the way Oliver installs them.
This is the QC valve fitting with a 10’ hose connected.
The 10’ hose is staged on top of the propane tank just inside the screw port opening.
For use the screw port is first opened, the valve is opened and hose deployed. This port is primarily used to fuel a dual-fuel generator staged on the trailer tongue or TV tailgate, or with an added length of hose for a fire pit.
QC propane ports in action!
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2 hours ago, Chukarhunter said:
Our early versions of the 2,000 watt model did not have a LFPO4 setting to switch to so I selected the "custom" battery option.
My Xantrex 2000W inverter/charger remote display, Setting #20, Battery Type, did have an LFP selection.
3 hours ago, Chukarhunter said:The main reason you need to adjust the absorption voltage to a 14.4-14.6 volt level
This is where I’m confused, is there a corresponding Setting # on the Xantrex remote to adjust the absorption voltage? I only see adjustments to voltage values in Settings #02 and #04. Could be that mine is not to BT model where ‘custom’ battery options can be made.
3 hours ago, Chukarhunter said:To be confident how to do this with your model of converter/charger, you really need to consult the "Optional Equipment" manual that came with your Oliver.
I’m going to have to look into this, I may be contacting you. Thanks
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14 hours ago, Chukarhunter said:
I do have a background in grid scale power and high voltage transmission, but the information above I learned the hard way when I switched out my lead acid batteries for LFP04 lithiums right after I picked up my 2020 LE II. Oliver started offering the lithium option in mid-model year about a month after I took delivery of mine so I had to figure it out myself. Information on this forum helped me out considerably.
I too have a 2020 LEll (579) with the 2000W inverter/charger and remote display panel, and have changed to LFPs. Can you share the Xantrex settings you found best applicable for your setup, or at least settings that will differ from the chart rich.dev provided above specific to the Xantrex 3000W model? Thanks
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GJ, when I read the OP’s statement that the battery tray would have to be removed to accommodate his new battery, my thought was the same as your original comment. I’m sorry you took it personal and my response compelled you to make a change, that was not my intent. I was actually referring to the differential cost of available batteries in today’s market in an attempt to convey that the choice of battery is a personal preference, and cost is oftentimes an irrelevant factor in achieving one’s goals. Your very rational assessment regarding battery securement based on personal experience and professional engineering background is spot on, as was your closing statement, and much appreciated. However, you lost me at “high amplitude multiple directional accelerations”!
ps: edited my response, as well, thanks!
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To add to Patriot’s line of questioning, how difficult is it to access the spare tire?
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I purchased two LiTime 230Ah batteries last summer, and added a transfer switch to enable use of the A/C on lithium when underway or at the storage facility; no more breaking out the genny for these brief stays! My former battery bank consisted of four 6V Trojan T105s, definitely an upgrade with a significant increase in useable power and huge reduction in weight! The Epoch 460Ah featured in Will’s video is very impressive being ‘all inclusive’, but at a cost double (based on current sale pricing) that of my LiTime purchase. That said, the saying ‘you get what you pay for’ probably rings true. Having all of the ‘bells and whistles’ in a single package may be appealing and in fact necessary for some, but not for me. I also installed a Victron SmartShunt for battery monitoring via the VictronConnect app, along with applicable fuses and bus bar; having individual components is appealing to me. I especially like that the LiTimes are a good fit in the battery tray, a convenience not worth sacrificing! I would suggest adding a platform for proper weight distribution if one decides to remove the tray; the fiberglass battery compartment bottom alone may not be supportive enough.
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10 minutes ago, Geronimo John said:
Ron how is the LifeSaver pressurized to push water up to the countertop?
GJ
There is a hand pump (black cap nearest doorway), it twists to ‘lock’ and ‘unlock’ a pump mechanism. Generally takes 10-12 strokes when using the shower handle.
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Thanks everyone for all of the enlightening information you shared regarding the Autoformers, much appreciated!
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6 minutes ago, Steve Morris said:
For actual use, ……….
I fill the LifeSaver Jerrycan and the Oliver’s freshwater tank with ‘home’ water prior to a trip departure; LSJ for consumption, freshwater tank for everything else. When the LSJ runs low it is refilled from the freshwater tank. This current system replaced having to bring a 3-gallon spout container of filtered water for initial countertop use, and the Travel Berkey for refilling, which is time consuming and cumbersome! In doing so, the footprint/stowage of the water management system is greatly reduced with an increase in onboard water supply. I too do not like change, unless for the betterment, all part of my Oliver Evolution!
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57 minutes ago, Steve Morris said:
Have you travelled with the Jerrycan full, or do you empty it? That's a lot of weight if full.
Yes, that is where staged when full whether in storage, traveling or camping; does not hamper ingress or egress, and hugs the wall under a waste bin. I have the optional shower accessory connected for convenience in filling water bottles, measured water for coffee, ice trays while sitting on the counter below the microwave, and even a quick outside rinse, as necessary. The shower handle holder is a similar adhesive product. I suggest using the blue painter’s tape to mark exactly where to adhere for proper positioning and levelness; it will save you some frustration!
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18 hours ago, mossemi said:
I believe they are a worthy product for an anchor/mounting point in or outside of an Ollie.
An alternative, especially for inside use, would be this self-adhesive hook cleat. The adhesive pad is clear and very strong; placed one on each side of my LifeSaver Jerrycan.
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Made in USA leaf springs
in Mechanical & Technical Tips
Posted
Oliver is most likely installing the 6 on 5.5 hubs on both axle sizes, maybe to keep the wheels universal on all builds. I have the D35 axle with the 6-bolt pattern.