Ronbrink
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Posts posted by Ronbrink
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10 hours ago, jd1923 said:
Can we assume my hull has 12 AWG wiring?
You should be able to look at the backside of the breaker panel and see the color of the romex wiring feeding into it; yellow 12, white 14. At least that’s what I was able to do in my 2020, all 12/2 to be exact.
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3 hours ago, rideadeuce said:
Am I reading this wrong?
I referenced the Technical Specifications for both the GREE and ECO-COOL, as posted online, with the same findings as @jd1923. Your reference material could be up-to-date information.
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1 hour ago, rideadeuce said:
Which is great since R-410A is going to be retired and R-32 is much more efficient.
According to product specifications, the GREE and ECO-COOL both use R410.
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1 hour ago, Shawna and Scott said:
Are there any modifications needed to attach to the Oliver? When I questioned about upgrading to the Truma I was told that it needed a platform to sit on, available thru Oliver. Other fiberglass work was involved.
I would think not, regarding additional platform/fiberglass support. There would be some wiring mods (no wall thermostat) and the condensate drains rooftop; remains to be seen if there will be a mod to adapt the Oliver’s thru-hull drain line.
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7 hours ago, rideadeuce said:
Looking forward to someone installing the Atmos 4.4 (Gree, Tosot, Eco cool) unit.
What sets the Atmos 4.4 apart from the other similar brands you listed is the type of refrigerant, R32. As I recall reading, requires a lower operating pressure and thus, more energy efficient.
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14 minutes ago, jd1923 said:
This will take some study
Indeed, but impressed thus far! More energy efficient, competitively priced and much quieter than the Dometic, mine is the 11,000 BTU model. I have read some discussion on Houghton vs Atmos. In watching videos on performance you can make your own judgement on the db levels and energy consumption being reported. Most interest and testing is done running off an inverter.
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10 minutes ago, jd1923 said:
Have you made your decision? Your timing?
Upon contact a couple weeks ago, I was placed on a waiting list for a white unit, said to take 8 weeks for their shipment to arrive. They do have in stock however, black units.
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24 minutes ago, jd1923 said:
Can't find much on Atmos or who sells them.
sdgelkhart.com, $1350 delivered was my quote. See pic for a forum to visit to obtain in depth information on the Atmos 4.4, including installation and performance testing videos.
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12 hours ago, GarryandKristi said:
I did not disconnect the charge wire.
I believe the community consensus is to disconnect the 7-pin charging wire, either within the plug housing or inside the Oliver, upon installing lithium (lithium iron phosphate) batteries. OTT routinely does this during a build when an upgrade to lithium batteries is opted. Reason being, the TV alternator does not have the proper charging profile for lithium. You can however, install a DC-DC charger and utilize the TV’s charge system to maintain the house batteries.
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On 6/13/2024 at 8:57 AM, NomadLife said:
If anyone can provide any information on this situation, this would be helpful!
I do recall an owner or two having issue with the hole cutout being left in the black tank and causing a blockage and/or preventing the gate valve from closing.
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14 hours ago, Steve Morris said:
Yes, thank you!
Please be advised, the breaker installed was a 20A not the 30A as mentioned in my reply. At the same time a second 20A breaker was also installed in the panel and wire routed to the nightstand where two desktop receptacles with USB ports were mounted atop that table, then further routed under the curbside bed to the receptacle shown in my January 15 post above, A dozen simple mods!, Additional USB ports. I stage a small dehumidifier in the galley on the stovetop cover and its’ wire can now be run down the wall and along the mattress for power. A third 20A breaker installed provides an auxiliary receptacle inside the rear seat hatch for miscellaneous use; light, fan, etc.
Nightstand AC/USB outlets very handy for staging/charging electronics.
Dehumidifier cord off counter as opposed to leading upward to the under cabinet outlet; makes for a cleaner look.
Dehumidifier cord/plug below curbside twin bed.
Miscellaneous duplex outlet inside dinette hatch on left. The receptacle box to the right is an expansion of the Xantrex setup to enable use of the LFPs to power the Dometic a/c.
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8 minutes ago, Steve Morris said:
Ron, where did you grab the AC supply for this modification? I’ve got two matching outlet covers, one for the front like yours and one in/near the basement. Thanks!
I did the tether last year when I almost left the cover behind…
My 2020 OLEll had three blank breaker spots in the electrical panel. I installed a 30A breaker in said panel to power the forward exterior outlet, as well as an interior outlet at the rear dinette seat next to the panel. The interior outlet also has USB ports. Does this answer your question?
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Very pleased with the final outcome and usefulness of our dual Lagun tables; throughly field tested for durability and functionality. My wife adapted well to her own table after a few years of me ‘hogging’ the single original table. The fabricated components of the dynamic system developed remain to be powder coated ‘white’ to better blend in with the Oliver’s interior; perhaps next seasonal camping lull. A cup of Joe and dose of @Geronimo John’s ‘words of wisdom’ to start this day. Life is good!
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I credited the idea to another Oliver owner (name unknown) in a response made to a post by @Wandering Sagebrush entitled ‘Inexpensive Helpful Modifications’, September 15, 2023, Ollie Modifications. This was one of ten mods I featured, some my own and others credited. May be worth another a look-see!
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Just watched a video on installation of a SoftStart on an Atmos 4.4, necessary to resolve an inherent issue regarding LRA.
Also, a screenshot of the dual squirrel cage fan blower in the Atmos for higher airflow, and sound reduction both from outside and inside the RV; 4 fan speeds, including Sleep mode.
A few other notes on the Atmos 4.4: (1) condensate drains on the rooftop, (2) the R32 refrigerant requires a lower pressure, thus more energy efficient, and (3) 12,000 BTU heat pump.
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2 hours ago, CRM said:
Haven't been at a high altitude or in temps much over 100 degrees with our LE2 yet
Understood, but everything is bigger in Texas, including the heat and humidity! Waiting to hear from current installers about unit size in a few Sprinter Class B motorhomes, which appear to have comparable interior space as an Oliver, as well as other performance measures.
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I went back and read where the aforementioned FB owner understood the dehumidifier to function only in Low cool mode per his conversation with SDG. I reached out to him for an update on his purchase and pending install.
Also read where SDG is testing soft start type devices on the Atmos 4.4, and independent others claim the new Micro-Air ‘Breeze’ is actually a better choice over the SoftStart brand. I will follow this closely, but my thought of reinstalling my Micro-Air 364 currently on my Penguin ll was nicked due to issues of memory and rebooting; however, not a problem reusing SoftStart devices on the Atmos. Later
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2 hours ago, Geronimo John said:
Ronbrink: The following does not apply for your Houston location.
But for others they need to be aware that most Lithium's per the MFG's must not be stored at full SOC for locations where there is any possibility of them freezing.
GJ
Very good point, thanks for stating!
@Geronimo John, I failed to emphasize that the Cerbo can be set to disable charging of my LiFePO4s at low temperatures, thus eliminating any concerns of damage during freezing conditions. The SOC can also be set to maintain a partial charge (40-60% range) for LFPs being stored for more than a month.
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26 minutes ago, CRM said:
Has anyone here installed the Atmos 4.4 yet and used it similar conditions? Looks promising since it has a de-humidification / sleep mode, but it looks like it also operates with the fan always on too.
There is an owner on the Oliver FB that received an order from SDG, but no report yet on the install. The Atmos 4.4 is a 15K unit, and there are claims that it is much quieter and more energy efficient than the standard Penguin ll Oliver currently installs. I have talked to the company owner and following reports by a couple of SOB owners. Although preliminary reports are promising, there have been some discrepancies in the marketing of these units; specifically, (1) a claim that soft start was built into the unit, but found not to be the case and (2) it has an inverter compressor. The heat pump is a good feature, as well as the dehumidifier which may operate separate from cooling. I have read where the Atmos 4.4 is same as the Gree A/C with the only difference in type of refrigerant. I will pass on further information as made available.
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3 hours ago, rideadeuce said:
Thinking about running hot ORION OUT to main pos bus in trailer instead of the rear one and taking neg directly to main chassis ground from TV battery and Orion instead of using neg busbar.
Running a dedicated 4 AWG ground wire directly from the TV’s battery to the rear bumper Anderson port, then continue the run of same size cable directly to the DC-DC would likely solve your problem.
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On 6/6/2024 at 3:36 PM, SeaDawg said:
The bigger question is: how well will one new lead acid battery play with three older batteries?
On 6/6/2024 at 5:35 PM, topgun2 said:That's 5 or 6 batteries replaced within 4 years - all due to the same type of issue? Even if the batteries were bouncing around in the compartment this seems a bit much to me.
On 6/6/2024 at 8:52 PM, Geronimo John said:Bill's spot on. The odds are that you have an overcharging issue. Combine that with SeaDawg's statement I think applies to your situation.
Conventional wisdom is when one goes bad, replace them all.
On 6/6/2024 at 10:41 PM, jd1923 said:Yes, it would have been better to but a pair or four,
23 hours ago, ChrisMI said:if I was leaving on a long trip I’d drive to Costco or similar and buy an identical interstate battery and ditch the three brightway units.
@SNY SD UP, take heed to these words of wisdom; oftentimes cost saving measures are our demise! Safe travels!
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16 hours ago, Fritz said:
Thus, if you have shore power connected but everything else turned off (including solar), the inverter/converter could be drawing enough to contribute to a 3% SOC drop per day.
That was exactly my point in a previous comment! Since my OTT is always on shore power when in storage, I have a Victron Cerbo and NOCO 10A charger ready to install in unison, which will be programmed to kick on said charger when the LFPs’ SOC drops to a set level. This will eliminate my worries of a depleted battery bank over an extended period in storage.
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9 hours ago, rideadeuce said:
Everything went as planned but the Orion is only reading 7-10 amps with Tundra parked.
My DC-DC only puts out a partial charge when idling. Revving the engine should show an increase in output.
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9 hours ago, jd1923 said:
@Geronimo John, I'm not sure how this occurs, but 2-3 times now it appears like you are quoting me, be instead quoting a post that I had previously commented.
This has happened with me a few times, as well; guess ‘things’ get discombobulated when crossing the Pacific! Better to invoke understanding rather than provoke Crazy Horse!
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Will the Norcold refrigerator/freezer be able to chill down my "blue ice" pack?
in Mechanical & Technical Tips
Posted · Edited by Ronbrink
I realized the fans are oriented the same, but have another question.
I checked if my fans would fit on the cover/vent in like manner as you, but unable to make it work without some trimming. Next tried fitment as @dhaig shows in his above pic, but now thinking laying it flat may be more efficient. What think you? (A change was made to my initial post once I realized you both had the fans facing the same direction, my bad)