Liana

I use the one between the lav door and closet (isn't there another outlet *inside* the closet?), and I see from @Jason Foster's picture that two vents have been added, really good move!

Won't happen anytime soon, that's for sure! Same. Tho, we learned that lesson the hard way, had to replace the glass... I don't honestly know, Mike in service didn't really know, either, thus the proposal to completely start over with its installation. The door seems to be square, it's screwed into the frame exactly as it came out of there, No clue. But we sure can't use it to check level as @SeaDawg said! I have to use the closet door for that! When we're in winter conditions, we *have* to keep the door ajar with a little space heater in there to keep the supply lines from freezing.

Our 2018 def has a sag. I asked about it last we were in Hohenwald, they said they'd have to start from scratch, which would mean filling holes in the fiberglass, drilling new ones to re hang the door correctly. This looks like the same piano hinge that's on our old ones, but I wonder, since our door is already sagging, that it might be more extensive.

same. especially when we've been in it for weeks on end in sloppy weather with our big hairy dog!

Yeah, this! HAHA, definitely NOT messy!

Is there a list being maintained somewhere?

IDK, there was also smoke and that distinctive smell of burning electrical insulation. Should the ammonia unit be hot if the fridge isn't operating? Yes there was DC power in that area, but the fridge was off, I would think the ammonia unit wouldn't be hot? But, yes, I'm glad to be getting it checked out.

We were going to pull the fuse but decided to try once more to just turn the batteries back on to see what would happen. No more sizzling, everything is operating "normally". I ran the fridge on DC for a couple of hours as suggested by GJ, it cooled down with no issues (I remain absolutely enamored with our lithium batteries - there was hardly any draw down of the batteries during this time!) I think the fuse would have been the more important link to pull, this was only happening while DC power was energized. We discussed that as a possibility but couldn't imagine what other wiring would be in that particular area. I have an appointment to take it to a local service center to get the wiring checked out to make sure it's not a bomb waiting to explode. Thank you all for being helpful and supportive!

So, kind of an ancillary question: I searched for info on this as well... I need to get the trailer put into storage until I can find some place that can take a look at it. With the batteries off, I can't operate the tongue jack. Is there a way to manually operate the tongue jack?

We didn't have any power on the trailer other than solar charging the batteries (and the propane was off and the fridge was off.) We did try like heck to locate it, cannot see much past the opening. All this sizzling was happening with the fridge off and not on shore power. We let it dry all day and when attempted to turn batteries back on more sizzling. I appreciate everyone's suggestion to use compressed air to blow moisture out, but I don't own a compressor! I do agree with someone's suggestion that this is an electrical issue rather than a fridge issue, it just happens to be SOME electrical issue in the lower fridge access compartment.

I was not using pressure and the fridge was off. I was using my usual garden hose that I've used dozens of times cleaning this trailer. I think I know HOW the water got in there and at this point, that doesn't really matter, it is literally water under the fridge (HAHAHAHA I crack myself up!) We let it dry all day and tried turning the battery back on, more sizzling. I'm trying to get in somewhere to get it looked at. I would not be a fan of a fridge fire. 🙂

We both said that as well. Sigh

I think the City of Phoenix will pick it up, will check on that. So I'm not going to blow anything up if I turn power back on? (nervous Nellie about such things...)

My apologies for not finding anything about this in a search: Was washing my poor filthy trailer today and inadvertently (I'm always SO CAREFUL about this!) got water up into the lower fridge compartment. Spouse was doing inside cleaning, I was doing exterior at the aft end when he comes out asking, "What's that sizzling noise?". We located it to the lower fridge access, pulled the panel off, and I immediately smelled that "hot electrical" smell. Burning wire insulation is quite a distinctive odor, no? Then smoke started wafting from the upper left corner. I jumped inside and hit the battery kill. Sizzling and smoking stopped pretty quickly after that. Both of us have examined the compartment to the best of our abilities to see if we can figure out WHAT was burning. I'm quite leary of turning the batteries back on! I don't see ANY burnt wires in the small space that one can actually see anything. Any suggestions about how to track it down? Would it be ok to let the compartment dry out and turn the batteries back on? I would NOT be able to pull that fridge out if that is what it would take to get to the bottom of this, would have to take it for service.

I did open the forward dinette hatch and put an electric heater in the lav, all seems well.

Thanks, good idea. I've never done that because I sure want that furnace running during the nite and I thought if the electric heater kept the rest of the cabin warm, furnace would not kick on.

I have a corollary question: We've had several nites of single digit temps, I've done no mods other than empty the outdoor shower hose and add a layer of foam inside the door over the valve handles (further, would not have the capacity or wherewithal to do some of the amazing stuff above). I've left the lav door open because I know that space gets SUPER cold if you don't. The (standard) toilet supply line seems like it might be frozen, no water refills it when opening the valve to empty the bowl. The sink valve works fine. I've never had that happen before, anyone else (with standard toilets, obv the composters need not reply)? So, now I have the access hatch on the forward street side cabinet propped open hoping to warm that side of the trailer. Forward street side corner of the lav is most definitely the weakest part of this system! I have an electric heater (am hooked to shore power) so thinking I will put it in the lav and shut the door. OTOH, my brother is trying to be in his 3 season trailer in these temps and is having NOTHING but trouble, so I remain appreciative of the *relatively* headache free winter camping

Honestly, I am pretty sure I threw out the suction cups and the baskets are now just sitting on the floor. Less than ideal, but maybe better than them falling off the wall spewing their contents everywhere. I do think I took the film off the suckers...

kind of off topic: in the picture of how yours looks, I see a basket on the wall. I bought those baskets and they would. not. stick. no matter what I did. Did you do anything different from what was supplied by the vendor?

Thanks all. The trailer is as level as it's going to get and we're parked for a while. The hinge seems to be a single pin that runs the length of the door. Pics attached

I re hung the lav door after getting the glass replaced and it is not square (I don't think it ever was completely square, but now it's worse) Is there a way to adjust it to make it hang straighter? The lower right (as you're facing it) corner hangs up on the threshold so I have to lift the door to get it to close all the way and then again to open it.

Thank you, John. All of that worked, I was able to reset the GFCI. (EMS read 123 v 60H 27 A probably the fridge pulling the amps? AC did not trip any breakers) Now the question is, when I go boon docking and can't get it to reset? Seems like I need to keep the genny with me to be able to recover? The good news is we're heading to Hohenwald later this month so if bad breaker or bad GFCI we can get changed out there.

Not hooked up to any power, solar input to batteries (3 100ah BB lithiums) only, trailer *is* connected to my truck, but truck is not running, so no power from there. On my last trip when I parked, I turned the inverter on, no AC to anything in the trailer (microwave is my shortest answer to whether that is true, and yes, the microwave is plugged in.) There is power on the inverter, display alternates between 0.00 and 13.1. Fault light is NOT on. I tested the GFCI, it tripped and now it will not re set. Solar charge controller shows FULL at 13.4 This all happened to me one other time early this spring, I wasn't in a position to troubleshoot at the time. Later hooked up to shore power, then when unhooked from shore power, was able to use the inverter for AC power in the trailer (without moving or connecting to my truck). I do not understand the interactions between all these power sources well enough to know why or where to go from here. Electrical seems to be the one system that I can't quite grasp, tho you all have helped me so much understanding what little I DO! 🙂

Considering doing this to make our trailer feel bigger and more functional. Order the rails from Oliver?

Do all y'all use a buffer? I had a "detailer" tell me today that I shouldn't buff our trailer. But I went back over it with the Meguiar's Marine and hand rubbed it because I don't have a buffer. Even my meager hand rubbing job took a lot of the streaks off that he left behind as well as some scuff marks that he said he scrubbed and scrubbed. But I feel like buffing would really help "seal" the wax onto the surface. I'm not really strong enough to do that good of a job on it. I can't complain about his work too much because for the time he put in, I feel it was inexpensive and it set the stage for me to then go along behind him and get the REAL wax on and clean up the streaks that his spray on wax left behind. I just hate when I stand there and have to listen to stuff I'm being told that is flat out wrong. Sorry, that kind of turned into a rant, didn't it?