Liana

Our 2018 #333 has one

Must be a year for falling off of ladders. I fell off mine cleaning snow off the solar panels in November. Well, technically, it slipped out from under me because I was an idiot about its placement. Bunged up my knee pretty well, was laid up for two months, but overall, very lucky since I was alone on our remote property at the time. Keep healing! Unfortunately, ladders are unavoidable in some circumstances. >.<

Bill, it's quite impressive that you are still running on the T105s! We replaced our 2018s in the spring after many electrical issues. I waited for the Battleborns to go on sale and yes, big invesment up front, and yes, the peace of mind about no more need for constant battery monitoring is worth every dime to me. Now I monitor our batteries more out of curiosity about our actual AH usage than a need to make sure we're staying above the AGM threshold.

Ours is under the street side Bed

We did this swap in the spring. 3 BB 100ah. What a weight savings! To your Question about Whether 4 can fit, yes. Someone on here did it. However, in our experience, 3 has been more than Enough. Only one time did we go over 100ah (we don't use The air conditioner) of use in one day. We have the lithium jumper and the Zamp controller so the swap was very straightforward. OTOH I Had a shop install the New BBs and I would not have had the hand strength to Wrestle those cables into place. With your solar, can you even generate enough to Charge 540ah?

This makes More sense since both lights stopped Working At exactly the Same time

It looks like VERY tiny screws hold a retaining ring to remove them?

No, we don't Have touch lights

We don't Have touch lights. Simple on/off switch

Our two under cabinet Galley lights stopped working. Every other light in the trailer works fine. We haven't moved the trailer in several weeks and Those lights were working just fine until yesterday morning. I'd Suspect A fuse if others were also inop, (I don't see a fuse dedicated to lights, are they on the TV circuit?) Not sure what else to check?

I couldn't Get the connector apart so I just shook it a lot and Water came out. Re cleaned everything With Alcohol and Re greased (dielectric) and lights Are out

Hi, John, Does this mean you take the connector apart? We started having this problem recently, I cleaned the contacts with alcohol and applied dielectric grease, to no avail. We still have the phantom taillights, so I thought the moisture must have gotten inside. We always keep the plug dangling down, so I am unsure why all of a sudden we're having this issue.

We literally *just* had this problem. As we were troubleshooting (including trying to find the EMS errorcode chart), someone walked By asking if we were having Power issues. The only other Time we've had this kind of issue we were hooked up to shore power in a campground. I stuck the voltage tester in the outlet At the pedestal And no joy. So, my guess is voltage dropped Below EMS threshold so it shut itself down. I pleaded with spouse to just abandon the electric hookups, we are totally fine with our new LiFePO4 batteries so why risk the rest of the trailer electronics?

Great idea. I'll Look for a different color, tho. 🙂

yes, it's quite chilly in there on cold nites

"...then back home in CO." Where? We're in Salida Congratulations and happy Travels

Which is cool, but not having such coolness, I might have to manually tally (calculate?) components' usage? eg, I look at the specs on each to figure out how many amps it will draw?

Now that I have the 300Ah of BBs installed, I know how to monitor replenishment, but I'm still not clear how to monitor usage. Someone above mentioned that the furnace draws 3a/hour, that is hugely helpful to know and it made me wonder where I find (or how to calculate?) the draws that various components use. EG, we are dry camping and have a completely overcast day with cold enough temps that I need the furnace on while I'm on the computer. I can see that the solar is providing a little over 3Ah at its lowest, has gotten up to 9 earlier with a bit of filtered sun (and I know that my panels are not sparkling clean). It's supposed to snow here tonight and freezing temps, so I'm anticipating needing the furnace all day and night (thermostat is at 62, so it's not running *that* much) I have a generator I can use if need be, I also have an additional portable solar panel but it's so windy here today that setting it out will probably not go well for the solar panel (fabricating a frame that can be anchored is a project for another day...). 😄 Zamp 30a charge controller so we all know what I have. Near as I can tell, the ability to determine the SOC with this controller is fairly coarse, am I understanding that correctly? ie, I think it is the four little battery icons under the words "battery condition" PLUS the LCD status indicator. I think that means that the SOC is *somewhere between 50 and 75% when the 3/4 battery icon LED is on plus 2 bars solid, 2 flashing on the LCD status. What's my threshold for breaking out the generator (Honda 2200) and if I can break out the manual as well, what information do I need to be able to figure out how long I should run it?

We have a Camp toilet with those nasty bags in a shower tent. Didn't want to use it at all When we had a mountain lion In the neighborhood, especially not at night ! 😂 I've mostly come to the Conclusion that a composting toilet won't Work in our setting And we're moving forward As quickly as feasible to Get our septic system In, but we're dancing with the County step by step... The nearest dump station to us is 4 miles away on a 50mph highway. 🙂 If only...see above mention of county 🙂

For those who do have one of these, I've always wondered how the heck do you lift it to take it to empty it somewhere? Even a smaller one (15 gal) will weigh 120 pounds when full! We would never use one on the road, but I'm seriously considering having one when we are dry camping on our vacant land so we don't have to move the trailer to dump the black tank.

yes, also on the converter

Update. I did get 3 100 AH BBs and had them installed. I've just returned from the auto parts store where I had the AGMs load tested and one of four tested "bad" and the second of four tested "nearing end of life", the other two were still good. I'll keep the two good ones and use them in another application I have in mind. I watched the entire installation and I have to say, thank you to all who tried to help me understand how to do the swap myself. However, from what I saw, I would NOT have had the hand strength to manipulate those cables ( @Terry McCaffertyI was able to re use the existing cables and my tie-down now looks kind of like yours only black ) AND hold them onto the bolt while tightening the nuts. I most DEFINITELY would not have been able to lift the AGMS out of that tray. The entire process of discovery and completion has been very educational. Having read the Solacity piece among volumes of other material, I now feel that I need to re learn how to read the Solar Controller panel and use the information there differently. I *think* I understand that I need to know much more about the batteries' state of charge but I don't really know how to monitor/track that. More research! Thanks again to all of you

I found the post super informative, thank you for sharing it! So many of us are upgrading our dying AGMs to the LiFePO4s (or starting with them!) and I have seen references to disabling the 12v input from the tow vehicle. I've been told that the TV should have a circuit protection (breaker? fuse?) to keep the Li batteries from overdrawing from the TV. But some have said they didn't disable their 12v and have no issue. I *think* I've seen somewhere that Oliver disables the 12v input when installing a Li system. Under what circumstances/configurations does the 12v input from the TV need to be disabled?

I suppose that would produce it's own kind of miracle! 😄

It does. I've never tried to run the AC off of the Honda, seems that I should be able to. To others' points above, we just don't use our trailer as if it was plugged into a 30a shore power outlet. eg, I've only used the microwave once, we were plugged into shore power. I've only used the AC to load our trailer in Phoenix in the summer then we get the heck outta dodge so we don't need it any more. I get that some folx camping needs at festivals and such might need that, so everything is according to your own needs/camping style. you absolutely need a neutral ground plug. SUPER simple to make your own, I'm electrically incompetent and made mine. 😄