MobileJoy

Oliver's winterization video shows hand-pumping (four strokes) antifreeze into the fresh water line (LEII). How does one avoid putting this antifreeze into the fresh water tank? Because of this, I ultimately flush the fresh water tank at least 3 times before filling it. Thanks for this tip. I will do this from now on.

Look at your circuit panel description in the (2024) Elite 1 manual. Note that circuit #1 of the main panel is the air conditioner. This is shown in the diagram (below) that uses the Xantrex 2000w inverter. This means the air conditioner is powered directly from the AC source. If you have the optional front AC input for a generator, connecting it to the input will feed to a transfer switch which will determine the power source (front input in this case) to route to the EMS. The EMS will verify the input power is safe and route the AC to the main circuit panel. So, in the Elite I generator case, the inverter should not be in the circuit path to the air conditioner. I think a 3000w inverter is essential to power an air conditioner.

There is Peach Country RV Park in Stonewall TX. We stayed there for the eclipse. It's $55/night. Full hookups. Good Sam, military discounts. Roughly 6 miles from Fredericksburg.

Very clever @Snackchaser! Nicely done.

If it's only your morning coffee, consider boiling water on your propane stove and using a pour-over. If you also need to grind beans, there are hand-powered grinders available. Check out https://www.hario-usa.com/collections. I have a 3000W Xantrex, solar and lithium, and I use a Hario pour-over for coffee.

The Lithionics 130Ah batteries have a built-in battery management system with Bluetooth capability, plus they provide an app that can be used to monitor the individual batteries. You can see the state of charge as a percentage (Lithionics recommends against using this number alone), or you can look at each battery's voltage. I have found this to be adequate regarding battery monitoring. I have no experience with the SmartShunt, so could someone who has installed one with the Lithionics batteries please chime in here? I am also unfamiliar with Battleborn's management system, so perhaps Geronimo John could describe his reasoning for the shunt. The Lithionics batteries can be individually shut off. Can you say why you chose to leave them on? The solar panels can also be shut off.

If you have a meter, you can check to see if the fan is getting power. You'll be touching the power plug with the meter leads, so be careful not to short out or you will blow the fuse (assuming it's not already blown). If it is getting power, then the fan probably needs replacing. We had this happen to ours early on in the toilet's life. Nature's Head responded very quickly with two fans (no charge, and I did not ask them for a spare). I replaced it and have not had a problem since. Now I have a spare, and will order another if it ever gets installed.

Last week I had Oliver replace all of the touch lights with these Obeaming lights. I had three touch light failures, and it might have been more except that we hardly use the ones over the beds. Contrary to others reports, the touch aspect never worked well. The failures were fluctuating light, total failure, and the ability to turn off without using the master switch. They used screws to attach the new lights, and not the screws that came with the lights. Once installed, we found that two of them did not work. They were on when the trailer was returned to us, and my wife could not shut them off. After investigation, it turned out that the lights that had appeared to fail, there was nothing wrong with the electronics. I removed the covers and operated the switches directly. No problem. The issue was that the cover switch button was not reaching the light switch. This was because some of the screw holes were not perpendicular to the mount surface, and so screwing in the light was deforming it (it was not flush to the fiberglass surface all the way around). I removed the screws on one of the lights and elongated the hole in the light fixture so the crooked screw's threads would not catch on it. After reassembly and remounting of the cover, the light works perfectly. I also bought spares since I expect these to be phased out (just as are most things). For easy reference: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B093G795G2?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

We're a little behind you down the road at Peach Country RV Park, two Olivers there.

Oliver's website now has a Travel Trailers / Find a Dealer page where you enter your address and a search radius.

I also have the 390Ah Lithionics and 340w solar system. This week I took Mojo out of storage. Batteries were at 100% because I keep them charged. Since it was time to do a full discharge cycle, I turned on the Norcold fridge on DC mode. The fridge was not pre-cooled, and the temperature inside Mojo was 60 degrees. Solar conditions were not good. The batteries entered LBCO in just under 1 day. In addition, I had the heater running (set at 65 degrees) so the blower was also operating, as was the Xantrex inverter. Not an apples-to-apples comparison with your situation. Usually, I use DC mode only when traveling, and I observe 5-10% drain from fully charged batteries depending on trip duration, outside temperature, and sun exposure. I haven't tried to gauge this accurately. Regarding low battery cutoff, this is done individually as each battery reaches 12.1V. When there is power draw, voltage tends to be lower, so the batteries can cut off before they get down to 10% of charge. In this case, the batteries did cut off at about 13% of charge.

I have a 30A male to 15A female connector along with a home outlet circuit tester. These testers are much cheaper than the 30A tester, and I already had one. This allows me to check proper wiring at the 30A outlet in the pedestal before plugging in the trailer. In theory the inboard EMS does these tests, but why plug in if you already know the pole is incorrectly wired? I do not use an external EMS/protector.

Posted.

Congratulations on your purchase, fellow NC'er! I'm sure you will enjoy your Oliver as much as we do ours. Reading the comments above, it looks to me like contributors are thinking that the trailer overloaded the circuit, yet you describe tripping a ground fault circuit interruptor. I have an adapter that converts from the 30A connection to a regular 20A cord. In my driveway, I used this adapter with the proper gauge extension cord many times without a problem. Then one time I came home and hooked it up, and as soon as the energy management system (EMS) cut in the power to the RV the 20A GFCI in my garage tripped. I opened a ticket reporting this ground fault, and the short story is that it was recommended to me that I have a 30A circuit installed. Before I could do that, I removed the GFCI and replaced it with a regular 20A outlet. After that the problem went away and I was able to recharge my batteries with the Xantrex. Note the EMS takes some time to turn the power on to the trailer, so this could have been responsible for the delay you experienced. I never tried changing the #28 setting on the inverter (i.e., 25A to 15A). I don't see what that could have to do with a ground fault (anyone care to explain), but it's worth a try. Ultimately I did install a 30A circuit at home and have not had a problem since. I also have trailer storage with a shared 20A circuit. With multiple bays using it, you have to limit the amount of current that you draw. I use a separate 20A charger that I connect directly to the batteries so the Xantrex is not seeing power.

Monitor your power source. You can do this easily by looking at the EMS panel. In our Oliver the panel is in the attic and its readout is in red LEDS. If the voltage drops to around 104V, the EMS will cut off shore power. If the Xantrex is drawing a lot of power (as it will by default when charging your batteries), with an unstable shore power source this could bring down the voltage to the point of EMS shutdown. This removes the power drain and allows the voltage to rise. Once it is sufficient, the EMS cuts back in and eventually powers the Xantrex. The resulting battery charging draw will bring down the voltage, etc., etc. I had this happen to our trailer at a campground that had unstable 30A shore power. Even if your batteries are fully charged, the Xantrex starts off by attempting a full charge and then rapidly changes from Bulk charging to the Absorption stage which draws much less power. You can also reconfigure the Xantrex to charge batteries at a much slower rate so its power draw is not so severe. May help, may not... We have the Lithium Pro package and Xantrex charging is set by default to 150A.