Wayfinder

Well, I cannot believe it took me this long to find the issue with my intermittent brakes after Oliver failed to put on new axles for me last year. Since then I've been dealing with my RAM disabling the brakes periodically. No rhyme or reason... (known to me). At least three or four of you folks here would have found this sooner than me, I'm sure of it. As suggested by some, I verified all ground wires going inside the trailer from the brake bundle on the drivers side (only for snugness). I have even replaced all brake bundle connectors, some I did twice just to be sure (today). But the good thing is I learned a great deal, and I found a ton of wire connector corrosion along the way. Even the 7-pin connector (now replaced) was not looking good. But what I DID NOT check was the actual copper wire condition going INTO the negative/ground bus-bar inside the trailer. Well, after checking, re-checking, re-checking again all brake connectors today, and verified voltage to all brakes, I think I found what someone at Oliver had done. See, when they initially removed my axles from #110 last year, in hopes that the new axles would fit my frame (that's another thread), they slapped my old axles back on, and hence re-ran the wires back into the trailer (creating the new issue). Sure I checked for snug negative screws, but I never actually pulled out the wire from the bus-bar. Look what I found today. After fixing this "mess", and ensuring the sheathing was not inside the bus bar, my third test drive for the day was a success, but who knows, I've driven four hours in the past, before my truck was bitching about low voltage for the brakes. This had to be the issue, I hope. I was also able to snug up the main nut to the chassis ground, although I know that was not the primary issue. Sigh!

@katanapilot You are not confused any more than I was at first. There are THREE major subjects being discussed, too much for a single forum thread. 1. We have a common situation where Automatic Transfer Relay (ATR) has melted down a bit causing a power outage from Shore power. This box switches from shore power receptacle outside to/from the front Generator 30A receptacle (by front jack), but ONLY if you opted for the front power plug/receptacle (an add-on at build time). The old style ATR box commonly melts down on the plastic bus bar or actually catches fire inside the box (usually a small flame). Most folks get rid of the old ATR box and replace it with the one I have pictured above. (New part # PD5110010Q). In the past two years I know of at least four of these old boxes catching fire or melting down. You would smell plastic/rubber burning. NOTE: If you do not have a 30A receptacle in the front of the trailer, by the front jack, then you do NOT have an ATR box. There is not need for an ATR at that point since you only have a single shore power receptacle next to the battery box. 2. We also have a discussion about a power converter charging the batteries. The AC charger is in the breaker panel box (part # PD405-CSV). I have already upgraded mine, as many have, to be able to charge certified Lithium batteries, but I have not changed over to Lithium yet myself. 3. Lastly there is talk about the inline Transfer Relay Switch (TRS) which provides automatic switching between shore power and the inverter AC source. My TRS is a Xantrex PROwatt SW Inline switch, Part # 808-0915. Not sure who has what in their older trailers these days, but I still have a 2000 watt Xantrex inverter in my trailer, which I have replaced once as well. The inverter provides AC power from the batteries when shore power is not available, so we can still have hot coffee in the morning from our electric water kettle and blow our aging hair with a hair dryer. LOL FYI, if you are plugged into shore power at a campground, there is no need to have the inverter powered on. It will do nothing for you. In my case, the Prowatt TRS detects shore power, and switches to using that to provide you AC electricity, versus getting AC from the inverter. Assuming everything is working correctly. These could all be dedicated threads and likely are in the forums somewhere. I hope I do not add to the confusion. I too was confused at first over all the subjects spoken about.

https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Transfer-Switch/Progressive-Dynamics/PD5110010Q.html 30 AMP model here.

I have also posted a reminder on the Oliver Owners FB group. Hope this gets resolved soon for you @taylor.coyote . I might carry a spare ATR box (new style) when I retire and do more Oliver-based rallies. I also carry several spares of the Maxx Fan cog mechanism that opens the lid up. They fall apart every five years or so, usage depending. Cheap pot-metal junk. I have replaced at least three of them so far for friends. LOL

Just in case someone finds this old thread. Many of us have since upgraded to the latest version o fthe Progressive Dynamics Automatic Transfer Relay (ATR) Switch box (Part # PD5110010Q). It can still be found at eTrailer.com (as of December 2025). This new part is a far superior model using Wago connectors. PLEASE GET THE OLD-STYLE ATR BOX UPGRADED IMMEDIATELY!!!!! My #110 is wired differently than other trailers of the time period in regards to the front generator power receptacle, it by-passes the EMS altogether. Other trailer owners have the front shore power line going through the EMS too, via the ATR box.

@taylor.coyote It sounds like you have an RV tech on the way. That's the best I think in your situation, especially if you are not familiar with these parts, and on the road without all the tools. As @John Dorrer mentioned, many of us owners with older Olivers have had to replace their Automatic Transfer Relay (ATR) switch, AND SHOULD!!!! I've attached my pic of the old style box (insides) and my new style switch box. I changed out the box myself (with shore power disconnected!!!!). It took me maybe 20 or 30 minutes. I've also noted in my pics that my front shore power receptacle does NOT go thru my Electrical Management System (EMS) box. Many do have their front port going thru the EMS, mine was just not done like that at the factory, which proved handy last year in the hot July whether in Georgia, when my EMS kept over heating and switching off. I think it's time for a new one (to-do list). But, I always carry an external EMS to place on the exterior camp ground pedestals. When I realized it was not the camp ground killing the power and it was my EMS, I just used the front inlet port to run the power and used my external EMS for the rest of the trip. Worked like a champ. So, I guess I will NOT re-route that front port thru the EMS in the future, lesson learned. Not everyone has that front port. If folks do not have the front inlet power generator receptacle, then they will not have an ATR box. Hope this helps a bit, and you get help quickly. Reminder, the ATR switch box should be an annual inspectable item. I just checked mine too since I could not find my old pictures. My old box was very difficult, and scary, to push in the sides of the box to release the tabs. The new box is MUCH easier to push in and release the tabs. Here is the new style ATR switch box (I only order this type of important items. from eTrailer, NOT Amazon: https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Transfer-Switch/Progressive-Dynamics/PD5110010Q.html

Welcome to the group @ChristianD from #110. Enjoy and learn all you can about the camper and adventures.

My #110 had different check valves than suggested by Lee on FB. But I was easily able to make them work without issue. The camper originally had Valterra P23402LF 1/2" (with male & female threads), with a male-to-male extender. This was a super quick job and tested for leaks with 65-70 PSI on the newly connected valves. I used the ones I ordered anyways (Valterra P23415LF 1/2"), which were shorter without an extender. The pipes had plenty of "play" to have the ends come closer together to make the P23415LF work just fine. Some trailers are naturally (and always) a bit different. There was no "gunk" whatsoever inside either of the old check valves, but I'm sure the old rubber seals inside dried up. So, maybe change these too every eight years or so. And the parts list grows. Some pics as always.

@jd1923 I will take pics of my check valves. Will be interesting to see if it's "gunk" or failed plastic.

yeah, it won't be fun in the heat for sure. I'm 6'2" at 183 lbs. I can do it, but will need to think what I need before I crawl inside.... to reduce the cursing at Oliver. LOL

This is likely fixed after a year after posting, but I did notice there is no rubber seal inside the inlet. That would certainly leak like crazy with a host hooked up.

Lee on FB showed pointed me at the check valves. I was looking right at them, but didn't know for sure if those were the check valves. Updated pick. I ordered three of them to keep a spare when someone at a rally needs one. It's going into my parts list/log.

@jd1923 I also have a 2016 (#110). I think my check valve to the city water inlet has gone bad. I have not truly identified the check valve itself, but I am surprised to see both City and Fresh inlets have 40-50 lb pressure regulators in the basement. Good to know. At least we have less of a chance of plowing a line from the inlet to the pressure regulator. Would these also contain a check valve within? I don't want to undo anything unnecessarily. I'll check the hex nut/screw inside the intlets too, but they don't seem large enough for an actual check valve. If the dirt cover is not screwed onto the city inlet, and the water pump is turned on, water does come out of the city inlet. Just discovered by accident this weekend.

yeah, I'm not really up for all that. My full-time job is keeping me busy enough. The old body doesn't like it either.

Huh, I submitted a ticket to OTT service but never heard anything back. I’ll need to give them a call about the 50” axles.