Wayfinder

Great thread Bill. I hope I can remember how to find it when I do need to get in that silly cabinet. It's annoying that it's so very sealed. But, I bet it won't leak inside the cabinet.

Well, it took a while to get around to it, but I finally conducted a vinegar cleansing on the water system. I'm back on normal city water and the bathroom faucet has not dripped a bit. I was worried, as it was dripping almost to the point of a solid stream. I let the vinegar/water mix set for about 4.5 hours, periodically running water through each faucet to flush (kitchen, bathroom, outside shower). Here are my general notes and how I did it. I did not yet run through hot water heater as I did not have a 1.5" socket on hand to remove anode road to flush. That's soon, to check. Think I "mucked" anything up? I did see the water pump screen/filter was not too tight with a minor leak. I hand tightened. All good. I should remove and inspect that too. * I referenced the Oliver how-to winterizing video for basic setup, reference only. # Rinse system with Vinegar water solution - Mix 50/50 vinegar to water in a 5 gallon bucket - Use 3-foot host connected to the winterizing port on rear of rig, place other end in 5-gallon bucket - Turn off water supply from city water (outside spigot) - Open up water faucets to reduce pressure - After pressure is reduced, turn off faucets - Close the bypass valve to hotwater heater (only if not rinsing hot-water heater - Suburban only) - Will need to drain/rince hot water tank afterwards. - Good time to check or change anode rod - Configure water valves for winterization mode - Turn on water pump - Run vinegar mix through all faucets (cold & hot) until smelling vinegar - kitchen - bathroom - outside shower - toilet - let soak in lines 4 to 5 hours, periodically opening faucets for a quick flush, with some mix still in bucket. # Normalize system - Re-fill bucket with clean water - With water pump still on, run all fausets and toilet, removing all vinegar - Turn off water pump - Normalize bypass valves as described for trailer - Turn on fresh city was to trailer - Run city was through all faucets - * If fresh water tank indicates water has entered, use water jump to pump out the water - with the city water turned off. - Do not run water dump completely dry. - Empty black then grey tanks.

And here I thought I was asking a silly question. Timing is everything.

Thanks everyone for the information. I really appreciate the support.

What's the purpose of the hot water heater switch inside the trailer? Turning it off does not turn off the water heater. Thanks.

I'm not sure why, but even hooked up to 30 amp, my Blue Sky Battery monitor is indicating a slow discharge, now 91% full, but my cheap Bluetooth-enabled shunt, on the battery, which came with #110, indicates all for 12v flooded lead acid are full. I'm not sure what's going on. I've tried "rebooting" the trailer and all electronics (resetting ALL breakers and surge protectors). Everything else seems to be working just fine. NOTE: The charging status does seem to blink at different stages of what should be charging. As it should. I'll see what the solar does to the indicator today, as the sun is actually shining. Ideas? I should call that Blue Sky guy, someone had recommended months ago, maybe it was @SeaDawg or @John E Davies. I might be soloing it for a while, maybe even an early Full-time status, for a while at least. That's for another day. Thanks!

I'm thinking of making a reservation. Has anyone booked specific sites yet? Mayb I can get in close. As of today, 8/15/21, there are still a lot of available sites. I'm not sure I'll be a solo camper or not on this trip. But I'm trying to be brave and get out, no matter what. Thanks, Chris

I only order by the case. It costs less that way. 😉

Great link. Thanks @SeaDawg. You favorite beverage is on its way of this works.

Well, we ordered the Andersen with chain extensions. Now we need to install and hook it up the best we can, when it arrives.

I suppose I'll ask on this thread. Let me know if I should start a new one. We have LE II with 2020 RAM 1500 Limited (with OEM adjustable airbags). With the bags we can raise the truck up or down about 6 inches. Truck adjusts itself periodically for various reasons. The RV reseller / dealer (not Oliver) really discourage us from getting the Andersen WDH, especially with the airbags, which we may not be able to "defeat" or bypass. They stopped recommending Andersen some years ago. He warned us that if we cannot defeat the truck from automatically adjusting the height of truck, that it can potentially place unwanted strain on the WDH and that we may be fighting with it to keep up with height adjustments. We need to hear from those with OEM airbags to get a better insight. What issues may we encounter and what solutions, if any, are needed? We would also like to take out some of the unwanted porpoisin when on country roads or bridges. The insurance liability is also a concern. It is stated in the users manual for pulling over 5,000 lbs. We certainly reach that weight when we are loaded down with all the other fun junk. The other, very expensive, option is to move up to a RAM 2500. Yet there may still be porpoisin, not sure how much. Thanks, Chris

Congrats on the Ollie. We are also new to Ollie and have also followed for nearly a decade with great interest. We're first time camper owners. Actually, I have never had a toy before this. 10 years of watching YouTubes related to RV/camping life has given me a good baseline. It was time to act, and not watch others doing. We're really hoping to meet up with other Ollie's in the near future. Again, welcome.

I earned for

What do you use to remove road tar from the aluminum rims? Other than a little elbow grease. Thanks, Chris

I posted a pic on that other thread. Thanks.

Am I correct to assume there is a temperature sensor in lower right of picture? It's not too hot today. Low 90s.

Though it's not been terribly hot yet, at what temperature does the refrigerator fan sensor need to be at for the fan to turn on? Yes, the switch is in the on position. Today will be the hotest we had the Ollie in, so we'll see.

That might have been it or I did not have Blackstone connector tight enough to push in internal hose pin, or I'm a moron and did not wait long enough. "We're cooking with Grape seed oil now". I suppose Crisco sounds better but, yuck.

I have two grills. I'm trying to get one of them to work with the rear outside propane connector in the Elite II. Have a brand new Blackstone and an old Coleman stove and I have the extender gas hose/line; it's about 10 ft long. I cannot seem to get gas to go through the line. The furnace and hot water heater both produce heat off the gas. I don't see any shut-off valves anywhere. What could I be doing wrong? I see nothing in the Oliver guide in regards to the external gas connectors, front or back. Thanks.

Eggs and bacon

Looks like I’ll be curling up under the table to get a better pic next time. Sometimes it pays to be little! 😂 Erika

Is it me or is the 25A breaker mislabeled on the door? Wonder what else is wrong. 2016 LE II

I thought it was a head-light light, not a break-light light. Mine only lights up when my truck head lights are ON, not auto, for example in my case. Would be nice to have it turn on with the outside courtesy lights too.

Thanks. We'll take a look at them.

After 5 years of use the uncrimped wire, which supplies power to the water pump, finally came loose from the connector. After close inspection I discovered the connector was never actually crimped onto the wire. Only the plastic housing around the connector was crimped to the wire. I also added a tie wrap to the wire protector so it does not pull down on the connector again. Easy fix.