Steph and Dud B

Was it windy, with the wind blowing against the fridge side of the trailer? Fridge on propane? There have been reports of wind blowing Norcold fridge exhaust fumes through the control panel into the cabin and triggering the alarm.

Completely unscientific but I've done it for years: fill tank with flusher for 45 seconds, pull valve and rinse for 30, repeat for 3 cycles.

Lots and lots of RVers do what you did - close the valve to put some water in the tank with the rinser. I do. Many have reported similar, and worse (much worse), results. Glad you didn't create a rooftop fountain or toilet gusher as others have.

Where did you find quick release fittings with caps?

Wonder if you could ride inside it? Wife took the truck into town and you want something from the camp store? No problem! Just drive your trailer down to the store! LOL! I'd do it just for the reactions. Drive it down your row of campsites and watch the look on your neighbors' faces as the random trailer rolls past. Probably best that I don't buy one......

Yes! Took me a bit to figure out how to get to the floorplan and specs.

They're taking deposits now. Some ideas mirror the recent electric Airstream prototype but in a very different implementation. Specs on their site (2nd link). Will be interesting to see if they succeed. https://www.cnet.com/roadshow/news/pebble-flow-electrified-camper-hitches-itself-pulls-its-own-weight/ https://pebblelife.com/pebble-flow

We have a Diamondback cover on our truck. It's secure and you can strap things on top of it (you can walk around up there). We added racks to carry our bikes or whatever (tank tote, firewood, etc.).

We ran our fifth wheel's fridge on propane for long drives. Now, with the 3-way fridge, lithium, and solar we always run on DC while driving. While the fire risk on propane may be minimal, with lithium there's no reason to take the chance.

It popped up again, so I chose Install. It appears to be a function of the Chrome mobile browser. It creates an Oliver Forums icon on the screen that appears to simply open the forums website, albeit without the other tabs and things you normally see in the browser. Just the Oliver site, nothing else. So, not a standalone app at all. It's really just a shortcut to the site, created by the browser software.

Don't run the fridge at that angle in any mode. Propane, 120 volt, and 12 volt modes all work the same way, just with electric heating elements instead of the propane burner.

The handle lock just keeps the outside handle flipper from moving. Think of it like a doorknob lock. You should be able to open the door from inside but, if you close it behind you, you'll be locked out. Incidentally, the handle lock is not very secure at all. A hard pull or a small pry tool can easily overcome it.

You could look into a satellite communicator like the Garmin InReach or the ZOLEO.

Our experience this summer, exactly. The booster didn't increase the bars on the phone, but it did seem like some things would load after turning it on. It was so minor, I'm not sure it wasn't just coincidence. I also identified an installation error made by Oliver. There is a hard 90 degree kink in the coax cable leading from the booster to its internal antenna over the dinette. Coax cables should never be kinked like that. In fact, OTT routered out a groove under the booster specifically so that cable could make a nice radius turn, but the installer ignored it. I thought that was the reason for the poor performance but, based on what @snakeriveridaho reported above, maybe the booster doesn't do much anyway. 😕

If you have the Furrion camera there's a blue LED on the camera when it has power.

We were in York this summer and rode our bikes to Nubble. Great place. Olivers definitely draw attention.

Is there an Android app for the Oliver Forums? I just had a pop-up in my browser ask me if I wanted to "Install Oliver Forums?" A quick search of the Google app store didn't turn one up.

We had an electronic lock on our last trailer and really liked it, so we ordered the RVLock Oliver installs. Don't like it as much as the one we had, which seemed to be better quality. It was made by LatchIt. It's an easy self-install. Same here. Great on the highway and I also use it if I have to back into a site solo. I put an orange leveling block on the ground as a target where I want the back of the trailer to end up. I'm going to use it backing into the garage, too. (Always better to have a human spotter when you can, though!) We like our upgraded non-KTT mattresses, so that's a matter of taste. You should go to the factory and try them out if you can.

I use one of these to check the angle in degrees: https://www.harborfreight.com/8-in-magnetic-torpedo-level-with-angle-finder-63692.html I put it on the top of the fridge frame after leveling with a bubble level outside. There's better digital ones, but this seems good enough.

@John Welte, that's not great. These fridges work by boiling an ammonia solution in a tank at the bottom. The vapor rises up a set of sloped tubing, condenses back into a liquid up top, then flows by gravity back down the tubes to repeat the cycle. When you are more than 3 degrees off level front to back, you exceed the slope of the tubes, so the fluid pools in the tubing instead of returning to the tank. The fluid left in the tank continues to boil, getting more trapped in the tubes. Potentially, the tank runs dry and the remaining solution crystallizes in the tank. This could potentially lead to a fire. The Norcold manual specifies a max incline of 3 degrees front to back of the trailer and 6 degrees side to side. In your situation, sometimes I put the trailer on the ball and do the rest of the hitch up, but I don't close the Bulldog. I raise the trailer nose back to level. Then, in the morning, I just lower onto the ball, close the Bulldog, and drive off.

The most common cause of failure is the 7 pin plug and connector between the truck and trailer. Check the contacts on each for bent connectors or corrosion. (I've been able to resurrect a trailer connector in the past by gently bending a prong back into place with a flathead screwdriver, but with a trailer so new yours shouldn't be that worn.) CAUTION: Pin 4 on both truck and trailer may be "hot" (connected to the battery) at all times in some installations, so don't short that one out.

Did they work for you before and just stop working? How old is your Oliver?

Can't imagine anyone doing that (?). Lithium batteries and solar are a perfect match because lithium takes a charge so easily. The bulk of the expense is the batteries. You wouldn't save much by deleting the panels and controller.

John is right on the money here. The YouTube videos don't give you the whole story and those people aren't you. We rented before we bought our first trailer and it was very instructive as to what we needed and wanted. RVing has as many problems and frustrations as regular house living (maybe more) and those problems are different than the ones you're used to.

You can't run the A/C off any of the non-lithium OEM packages. With the Platinum lithium package you can run the standard A/C for a few hours. But, you still have to put that energy back in the batteries somehow. That leaves you either running the generator or going to full hookups to recharge. In actual usage this summer we ran the generator on the Platinum battery system for about an hour before bed on a few nights of a 2 week trip. The solar wasn't able to to completely replace those watts the next day but we had enough total capacity to get through the trip without needing the generator. In other words, we were able to run the A/C off battery for short periods on the really bad nights. I think each hour used roughly 10% of our total capacity. When I get a chance, I'll check my notes.