Steph and Dud B

The Avions were kind of cool.

A couple of things here. First, the pump kicking in and running non-stop. This usually indicates a water leak somewhere. That would also explain the initial low tank reading. With water in the tank and the pump running, or hooked to a water source, look for water draining from any weep holes under the trailer. Next, the erratic readings. I have seen our fresh water readings jump significantly with minor changes in trailer level front-to-back or side-to-side. Haven't seen a 0-69% variance, though. I would experiment with multiple readings, adding water/draining the tank without moving the trailer.

For best performance of any radio repeater, the repeater should be located roughly 1/2 way between the transmitters and receiver, at a slight elevation to avoid obstacles. Also, the antenna on the repeater should be oriented the same way as the antenna on the receiver. However, in practice, the distance from our sensors to the TV dash is so short, pretty much any installation (short of the back bumper) should be sufficient. K1PDB

For the trip home from Hohenwald, I put a cigarette lighter plug on the booster and used Velcro to stick it on the wall behind the front dinette seat, plugged into the outlet below the seat. Worked fine. A year later, every time I plug it in before a trip I say to myself, "I really need to mount that permanently..." 🤔

Good question. I don't know.

Yes, you need a bonding plug to get power from most generators into your trailer. That should solve your initial problem. I don't know if Hull 590 has an inverter. Most Olivers do. Do you have a black control panel labeled Xantrex in your trailer? Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Schneider-Electric-Solar-Inv-808-0817-01/dp/B0756BJQCN/ref=asc_df_B0756BJQCN/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312094677816&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10946446638069115879&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003252&hvtargid=pla-519123927354&psc=1 If so, you have an inverter. Instructions on its use are in Oliver University, linked from the main Oliver website. Basically, if you have no shore power, pushing the round silver button in activates the inverter and creates 120v power for your outlets, microwave, etc. from your batteries. The green LED next to the battery icon will indicate it's working. Note that this can consume a lot of battery power, especially running the microwave, so use it sparingly. The inverter does consume some power whenever it's on, even if there's nothing plugged into the outlets, so turn it off when not needed.

We've had Coach-Net for years. The coverage includes any vehicle we drive or tow, including rentals or borrowed vehicles. We've used them for an RV mobile tech to replace a brake assembly, a tow for both our dually and fifth wheel and, just last week, a tow for my wife's car after mice chewed the electrical system. Our experience was positive each time, with quick and appropriate services dispatched.

According to my Lithionics manual for the 320 Ah batteries you can also leave the batteries connected to a reliable shoreline connection for the winter (they recommend leaving the solar on, too). The batteries' internal heaters will protect them from the cold while the shoreline connection/solar keeps the heaters from discharging the batteries.

@jd1923 that is perfectly normal wiring. Our previous trailers all had that wire hot to the batteries. (As others have said, it is not that way with our lithiums.) We even made a jumper plug to connect that terminal to the running lights so we could leave the running lights on if we had to leave the trailer on the side of the road at night because of a breakdown. You might see some campers leave their trailers lit that way in campgrounds, too. Kinda a newbie thing.

If you're on shore power, have the 2 power connectors outside (left side body and right side by the propane tanks), and the transfer switch doesn't click/microwave doesn't beep when you plug in, can your cord reach the other power connector?

We had an electric fireplace in our last fifth wheel. I thought it was silly, but it was a standard feature. Turned out, we really liked it. It was basically an electric space heater, so it was good to take the edge off on a chilly night if we had hookups. And the fake fire glow was actually kind of nice. 🙂 Here's another article from the same source, this one a review of the production Cortes units. Saw a couple of those at our local dealer this summer. https://www.theautopian.com/this-new-fiberglass-camper-has-some-great-ideas-wrapped-in-terrible-marketing/

A new company. This one's made of plastic with welded seams. I think the interior might be plastic, too. Very lightweight. https://www.theautopian.com/this-new-lightweight-plastic-camper-promises-a-leakless-future-with-no-rot/

FYI, you can't really manually adjust Dexter auto-adjust brakes if they're too tight. You can back the star wheel off, but it will just go right back to where it was next time the auto-adjuster kicks in. However, you can adjust them with the star wheel if they're too loose. Go figure. (Also, the Dexters auto adjust while moving forward.) John's right. They're more trouble than they're worth, IMO.

Interesting. How was the bus bar a power drain? Our was it high resistance?

At John's suggestion, we have a little Alpicool fridge/freezer to keep Steph's meds at the right temp while dry camping. We keep a Govee wifi thermometer in it to monitor the temps. It worked fine all summer.

This is how I discovered a brake failure on a previous trailer. The brake assembly fell apart due to a broken spring and the parts were rattling around inside the drum. I noticed that wheel was running hotter than the others - but not hot enough to trigger an alarm - so I pulled over to check. The early catch may have prevented spindle damage.

You can also check error codes and battery details on the Lithionics app (as long as the batteries are On and connected to Bluetooth).

TPMS is the first thing we install on every trailer. Learned the hard way with trailer #1.

A thermal camera won't find moisture. It only displays the surface temperature.

It's a trailer. It's going to move. When Steph says it's moving too much I go outside and give the rear jacks a little nudge. It's still better than our fifth wheels.

Have fun!

Do the fuse failure LEDs come on when you pull the fuse from a connected circuit? They look off in the photos.

You have a Xantrex inverter, correct? On the wall panel remote for the Xantrex, when the silver button is out, the inverter function is off. There should be no LEDs lit if you're not connected to shore power. When the silver button is in, a green LED and the display on the LCD screen indicate that the inverter is functioning.

That doesn't make any sense... Just to be sure, because I can't see it in the photos, what jacks do you have your multimeter probes plugged into on the meter? Want to be sure this isn't a test equipment error.

Honestly, the rust I see in the photos doesn't look much different from the underside of almost every older car here in Connecticut. It's part and parcel of living in a coastal state that also uses brine to de-ice the roads every winter. Even those of us that frequently rinse the undercarriage still get rust if we drive in the winter. Maybe go easy on the current owner. She may have been taking reasonable care in an environment that simply rusts steel quickly.