Steph and Dud B

I would be interested in hearing more about the member who experienced baseball-size hail. I'm assuming they're also the one member that reported the more severe damage - solar panels, hull penetration, etc? Would also like to know if the hull was repaired successfully.

Last I knew, Dexter advises to NOT jack a trailer by placing a jack under their axle tubes as shown in the Trailer Legs photo.

If you do decide to replace the lock on the battery door, I'd suggest replacing the one on the basement door at the same time. Having only one of them with a better key sort of tells people there's something special behind that door.

I'd go with, "Cassette Toilet Access." More believable.

Mr. (Mrs.?) Osprey got take-out for dinner.

Unfortunately, if someone knows there are expensive batteries in your compartment, and they want them bad enough, no latch/lock will stop them. They'll just ram a crowbar into the compartment door and rip the fiberglass apart. Keys will keep the curious from looking but they won't stop a determined thief. At least the cut keys would stop someone with a paperclip from opening the compartment.

First time I've ever heard anyone say their Oliver was swaying, not to mention with a 2500 (if anyone else has, please link the thread). Somethings up. As others said, check the truck suspension then try towing without the Anderson.

Your can check to see if an IR transmitter is working with many cell phone cameras. In a dark room, point the remote at your cell camera and press a button. Most cell phone cameras can see IR light. FYI, another thing to watch with MaxxAir fans: some cell phones have a IR transmitter on the screen side. (It's used to detect when the phone is near your face, so your face doesn't press buttons while talking on the phone.) In our last trailer the fan was over the bed. If we left a cell phone face up on the bed the IR from the cell phone would interfere with the MaxxAir remote. (Took me forever to figure that one out!) I imagine the same could happen with a cell phone by the stove or pantry in an Ollie.

Unfortunately, I think you're selling in a soft market. The COVID campers have had their fill, dealer lots are piling up, and prices for used RVs are dropping across the board. Of course, Ollies are something of a special case, being in a fairly exclusive niche. I wonder if it's your price, or just a dearth of prospective buyers right now. Hope you get the answers, or buyer, you're looking for, John. Personally, I'd love to have Mouse since I know it's been so meticulously cared for. Good luck.

Not if you have a factory lithium package. They don't connect that 12v pin to the batteries. We used to carry a 7 pin socket wired that way for use in an emergency. If you had to leave your trailer on the side if the road at night because of a breakdown it would light the running lights while you were gone. (Should have incorporated a flasher unit, now that I think about it...)

I believe the Norcold requires 12v DC for the control board, even to run on 120v AC. As @SeaDawg was alluding, this could be a 12v power issue, especially if you have no lights on the display. If your batteries are charged look for a loose wire or 12v fuse.

I think we're one of the few with the factory-installed Lithium Platinum Package, and that's actually by accident. When OTT was doing our build they had trouble sourcing the batteries for the Lithium Pro Package so they offered us a deal on the Platinum Package instead. Gotta say, really impressed with this system. We just got back from a week long trip in full shade with rain every day and we didn't even put a dent in it. 63% SOC at the end of the trip with virtually no solar charging and no use of the genny. That's with using the microwave, coffee maker, and TV, too. If you frequently dry-camp or boondock in shady/cloudy environments, the Platinum Package might be worth the investment for you. We could have easily gone 2 weeks without a charge. I put a full trip report (and a one-year ownership wrap-up) on our blog if anyone wants more info. Happy Fourth of July!

TST. We've used them for many years. https://tsttruck.com/

@rich.dev, you are good! I didn't realize there were different key options for the various latches! Thank you!

That's a slam/press latch. It would probably chew up the gasket and the fiberglass edge of the opening unless you remembered to hold it open while closing the hatch. I don't see any Southco compression latches with real keys that would directly fit our application. If anyone does find one please post.

Someone overfilled your tanks. When they heated up, the pressure relief valves opened, venting propane. I'd get them filled somewhere else next time. Propane is heavier than air. The propane you're venting will flow downhill. If there's a lot of it, this could pose a hazard if it finds an ignition source. If you do have a lot venting, you can try cooling the tanks with water. Odd this happened to you. I recently had a propane place overfill one of my tanks, too. That's not supposed to happen. The tank's built in Overfill Protection Device should not allow a tank to be overfilled.

What would you do with your grey water?

Amazing sunset photo!

Yep. Tightened all the fittings and screwed down the hold-down straps. Very strange symptoms. When the pump is sucking air, you can barely hear it. If anyone keeps getting air in the lines the first time you use your pump on a trip, check those connections.

On the first night of a recent dry camping trip (using water from the fresh tank) my wife noticed a very low hum when she went to bed. I tracked it to the water pump. It wasn't the usual pump noise, it was a very soft, low vibration. I opened a faucet and found no water pressure. Closed the faucet, cycled the pump on/off and had water again with no further pump noise. Thinking about it overnight, I surmised the pump was running dry, even though we had a full tank. I suspected an air leak in the pump intake plumbing. Inspection under the bed revealed multiple loose connections on the intake plumbing side. Some very loose. I also found that 2 of the black tie down straps intended to hold the intake plumbing to the mounting board were just hanging loose off the pipes. No-one at the factory had finished the intake side of the pump plumbing before the pump assembly was installed in the trailer. This was an absolute, and obvious, QC failure since that assembly is done on a workbench before being put into a trailer shell. We have had a failure of some sort, from cosmetic to serious, on every single trip in the year we've owned this trailer. In another case, a carriage bolt was stripped and could not be tightened to spec. Even so, it bore green torque pen markings on it from the factory. It was impossible for that bolt to have passed a torque check. A loose 120v electrical splice that melted and charred also bore QC marks from the factory. None of our previous trailers had this many issues. This may be normal for pandemic-era Some-Other-Brand RVs but is absolutely not what we expected from an Oliver. Now that RV sales have slumped, I hope OTT is taking the time to be more careful assembling new units.

Yes, you can put a pan on a Blackstone griddle and boil water. I suppose you could use a skillet, too.

While you've got the washer and screen out I'd take out that 1/2 inch Allen wrench and make sure the fitting is snug. The wrench fits into the hose opening behind the washer/screen combo. Should be snug. Don't need to torque it.

Ours fell off streetside. It was still under warranty and OTT struck it back on but they didn't do a great job. There's some gaps and they didn't replace the caulking that originally helped secure the end. I expect it will fall off again. 😕

(I also had some leftover 1/4" red reflective striping. You can see that on the hitch lock and a band of it around the Bulldog collar. There's 2 more strips of it on the side edges of the bottom step - for when the steps are out at a truck stop after dark.)

Another safety addition. There are limited reflectors on the front of the Ollie, just the two amber reflectors on the front corners of the lower body. These don't really delineate the length of the trailer since they're 6 feet back from the end of the hitch. And there are no reflectors on the front of the trailer. Occasionally, we end up putting the nose of our trailer at the front of a site, with the truck behind. We also once had a mechanical failure with a previous trailer that forced us to park it on the side of the road. In those circumstances, I prefer to have reflectors visible from the front and sides closer to the hitch. For $4 I added DOT-approved reflectors on the angles of our front basket. Since their viewing angle is greater than 45 degrees, these provide effective front and side markers much closer to the hitch. 3M 989-74-3 Circle-2 989-74-3 Reflectors, 3" Diameter in Circles, 3" Wide, 3" Length (Pack of 2) https://a.co/d/7EtKpYr