topgun2
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Posts posted by topgun2
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Chances are pretty good that you have a loose ground wire somewhere in your system.
I'd start at one end and tighten every ground wire I could find.
If that doesn't do it then I'd recheck all connections - also paying particular attention to the negative/ground side of things but, since you are there, you might as well check the positive side at the same time.
Good luck!
Bill
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25 minutes ago, nrvale0 said:
I don't know if Oliver tracks that sort of info for individual model years.
Yes they do and can even tell you the specific model and serial number of your fan.
Bill
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1 hour ago, Patriot said:
Our Blueberry Hill - is a small ridge where we built our home in the foothills of Western North Carolina. We have been growing (pesticide free) blueberries now on a small scale for 15 years. We deep freeze, enjoy, and eat a lot of blueberries and always share with family and friends.
I can personally attest to the fact that Blueberry Hill exists and that the blueberries taste as good as they look. I'm not the biggest fan of these things, but, you can just taste the work and love that go into the berries from the hill. Added to the attraction is the fact that this lovely garden is right next to the house and still doesn't even look like a farmer's garden and/or detract in any way from the residential "feel" of the area.
Bill
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36 minutes ago, John Dorrer said:
We use Andersen jack blocks (round ones) and the Andersen ramp levelers for side to side.
OK - let's see if we can narrow this down a bit.
The "jack blocks" generally will not have anything to do with the trailer moving in the manner you describe. If blocks are not placed flat on the ground (i.e. they are on edge) then some slight movement could occur. But, with the Andersens shape and size this would be very rare if even possible.
The Andersen "ramp levelers" are another story though. Obviously, even on flat ground, the curved shape of the Andersen levelers will cause those levelers to move unless the chock part of the system in put firmly in place. I also use the Andersen levelers and early on I started carrying a rubber mallet and use that to give those red chocks a tap to make sure that they are firmly set. I also use this mallet to set the regular chocks on the opposite side of the Ollie. This is not only safer, but it is much easier on the hands or feet that I used to use to try to firmly set the chocks.
Finally, Rideandfly's recommendation of letting the Ollie "settle" with the TV in neutral is a good one.
Bill
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I assume that you had both sides of the Ollie's wheels chocked (passenger and drivers sides).
Can I also assume that you had already removed the "whale tail" from the bottom of the hitch?
Bill
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38 minutes ago, Dennis and Melissa said:
Another Andersen success today. That's three in a row.
Congrats!
I seem to recall at least a couple of Forum members advising you to stick with the process and things would get better. It looks like you are over the big hurdle. However, be warned, don't let the success go to your head. These things seem to be able to pick a great spot to act up.😇
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10 minutes ago, Steph and Dud B said:
We won't be able to attend due to a family medical emergency.
So sorry that you will not be able to be at the Rally.
Good luck with the medical issues and hope that all turns out well soon.
Bill
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44 minutes ago, Mike and Carol said:
I’d be interested in what the consensus is on what everyone does during storms.
I don't know about "consensus" but basically the article in your link reflects old Boy Scout advice from long ago.
In the over eight years since I bought Twist I have only left it once due to lightening/storm. Every situation is different, terrain, trees, likely direction of the storm, availability of studier shelter, potential protection for the Ollie and my truck, etc. Certainly one thing in the article that is very important (IMO) is one or two sources of "automatic" weather warning information. I use and app on my "burner" cell phone called "Severe Weather Alerts" and I always carry a NOAA Weather Alert Radio - both have automatic alert features.
One additional point - if it is possible and you have a good sense of where/what direction the potential storm may be coming from - point the Ollie with either its front or back towards the storm. Since many of these severe storms also have high winds, the Ollie's aero will help if placed in this orientation.
Bill
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I'm now out of the motorcycle business after some 50 years.
The 1998 R1100GS below was a veteran of over 15 "Daytona Bike Weeks" and some 6 cross country trips.
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37 minutes ago, johnwen said:
Reckon I'll try to find some replacement string soon
While I used 1.0 mm cord, I believe that .08 mm cord would be closer to the original size and just might be easier to work with. Cord in both sizes can be found on Amazon HERE.
Bill
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Go to the Oliver University - From the Oliver Website hit "Home", Resources", "Oliver University". "Travel Trailer Owners Manuals", scroll down to 2022 models, and, then click on "View Manual"(located on the right side of the screen.
Next scroll down to page 60 and start reading about water system information. Note that your water valve configuration(s) can be found on page 62.
If your accumulator fails then all you should notice is that your water pump will run more often and you might see some "pulsating" of water as it comes out of the faucet. However, unless something has clogged the accumulator there should be no other issues with it.
Bill
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Good for you guys!
Bill
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1 hour ago, Geronimo John said:
Lkely one of them would be glad to offer to sell theirs at a reasonable cost plus shipping.
If anyone has one of these for sale (at a reasonable cost) and is coming to the Annual Rally - I'd be interested.
Bill
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1 hour ago, Geronimo John said:
Nice ride Max!
Just wait until you see the new ride of another one of our Forum members!
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1 hour ago, John Dorrer said:
I have no desire to do what you did😎
The process is actually not all that tough and now I'm sure that I could do it again fairly quickly - about an hour.
My "problem" was that the one side of the repair was done differently than the drawing showed and I didn't recognize that until I finally decided to replace the string that was not broken.
Of course part of what made me so determined was the fact that for the sake of a stupid string I was going to have to fork over around $1,000 for a full set of "white" frames!
Bill
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And - here we are on April 16th, 2024!
The good news is that I've now (finally) got the shade back together (for about the 10th time) and the BIG exception as compared to the other 9 times is that it now works!
I never thought that I'd have to be concerned with "string theory". But in the case of these shades there are a couple of VERY important things that one should pay attention to.
The reason why it took me 10 times to get it correct was that my intent was to only replace the string that broke. I did this according to the diagram(s) that I found in this thread. I paid careful attention to the route that this string took in those diagrams, but, in each instance once the shade was put back together and the spring tension set, I would quickly see that the string would not stay taught on one side or the other.
Long story - but this problem got me to thinking - where does the string go when I raise the blind? About the same time I retrieved another shade from the Ollie hoping that it might give me some idea of were I was going wrong.
In looking at the shade I knew was functioning properly and I (finally) noticed that the string routing on the side that was not broken was different than either the night shade and/or the properly functioning shade from the Ollie. This is when I (finally) realized exactly how these shade manage the string - one side takes up the string while the other side basically pushes it out and the spring simply helps smooth out that process.
In the diagram from the factory - if you follow it closely - it can been seen that the string goes from the spring, through the corner frame piece, through the lower pull bar (the bar that is used for raise and lower the night shade) and into the upper pull bar (the bar used to raise and lower the screen). But instead of going through this bar, the string takes a turn and travels through the bar under the bottom part of the shade where the shade is held by this bar. I pulled the string down this bar until it came to a grommet that passes through the bottom of the screen, and is then threaded upwards through the holes in the screen fabric. Once this is complete the threading continues through the top of the screen and into the area just above the point where the screen is held in a track at the bottom of the frame itself. Once again, the string then turns and travels back to the original side of the shade where there is a second grommet. Passing through that grommet and then the holes in the screen fabric until coming back to the bar that is used to raise and lower the screen. Back into the narrow track on the bottom side of this bar that holds the screen it is just a short distance (a couple of inches) back to the end piece of the bar where the string feeds over a small metal "roller" and then takes a 90 degree turn back towards the area where the original spring is located. Again, paying close attention to the drawing and to the opposite side to make sure that the routing was the same on both sides I finally got back to the spring. In tying the string back to the spring I had to use a pick in order to get some stretch in the spring. It took more stretch than I would have thought but I needed to take up all of the slack in the string plus make the string taught such that the screen would not "flap" in the breeze.
The whole "issue" was that the original stringing from the shade factory was NOT the same as the stringing shown in the drawing above. Instead of passing the string through that second bar (the one used to raise and lower the screen) and then threaded UP through the screening, the string continued up into the top frame piece and down into the screening (i.e. the reverse direction). While I don't think that there is anything "wrong" with this, the problem is that BOTH sides must be strung in the same manner (i.e. in the same direction).
Of course I could have avoided a bunch of work and worry if I had simply paid attention to how the broken string side was routed in the first place. But, of course, I simply pulled out the broken string - mistake!
Hopefully the above makes some sense and you avoid the issues I encountered. I'd be happy to do a "show & tell" at the Rally for anyone that really wants to see what I'm talking about - just let me know and we'll work on a time and place to do a one on one.
Bill
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Its the "snap" of the rubber gloves that always gave/gives me the "willies". Of course there is always that sly smile on Steve's face when he says things like that!🥺
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4 minutes ago, rideandfly said:
Really like his three step process, results, and gloss meter.
I'd bet that the guys from CGI will be at the Rally again this year.
I'd also bet that they would be more than happy to bring their gloss meter to your Ollie and give you some gloss readings.
Bill
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Not a bunch of those trucks around that are getting this kind of love either.
Nice job on those "blacked out" rear lights!😁
Bill
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1 hour ago, Geronimo John said:
What was your motivation for adding the hatch?
On 4/9/2024 at 11:05 AM, Townesw said:The round port was added after production to access a loose clamp on the exit end of the fresh tank overflow hose. It sure is useful for checking below the cabinets.
As per Townesw post above.
Bill
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41 minutes ago, routlaw said:
What does EBITA mean?
Earnings before interest, taxes, and amortization (EBITA) is a measure of company profitability used by investors. It is helpful for comparing one company to another in the same line of business.
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Take a look at the last pic in THIS post.
It shows the vent stack and the top of the valve I mentioned in my first post in this thread.
Remember - light taps with a hammer is all that should be needed to re-seat that valve.
Bill
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58 minutes ago, Steve Morris said:
'm also thinking that most of the softness was from the slight overcast condition.
Absolutely!
There is simply not much that you can do with that kind of cloud cover. The light simply refracts off the moisture particles in the hazy plus any "dust" in the air gets "stuck" to those too and that is why (even with the naked eye) things simply are not as "sharp" as they are on a day with fewer clouds/moisture. Next time - demand humidity of below 15% and no wind and no people kicking up dust!
Bill
p.s. 45 years of engineering has not much to do with it. My father was a pipe fitter before becoming a professional photographer. I swear that there is something that comes through the lens of a camera that makes some people simply "mad" (shutter madness?) about the entire process. Spending hours/days waiting for that "correct" sun angle, that critter to poke his/her head out of the hole, that butterfly to land on THAT flower, the bride to get THAT look on her face, the fighter jets doing vertical takeoffs at the end of the runway and NOT getting that afterburner flame touching the ground, etc., etc..😊
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16 hours ago, Steve Morris said:
I’m not particularly pleased.
Steve -
I don't believe that there was much wrong with your equipment nor your abilities as a photographer.
Perhaps you could have improved your results (marginally) with a different set of lens filters, but, with the amount of moisture in the atmosphere I'd guess that you were fairly doomed from the start.
Regardless - nice work and thanks for letting us share in your event.
Bill
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Electrical Awning reinforcement
in Mechanical & Technical Tips
Posted
No - I have not tried it nor do I have an electric awning....
But, I scrolled down to the "products" page and the first thing I saw was what appeared to me as the entire system in a bag for only $19.95 and immediately thought about getting the system and converting it to be used with my manual awning.
Duh! that is only for the storage bag. The system starts at $229.99.
Guess I'll stay in the dark ages for awhile longer.😊
Bill