John E Davies

You’re welcome.... Zoom in on the pic in the previous post. When on the road I carry them bungeed to a set of Yakima crossbars, where I carry my canoe. I also added a steel cable and lock to stop the casual thief, but most people have no clue at all what they are. The rest of the time they sit in the cargo bay against the left wheel well (fore and aft) nestled into a folded piece of sturdy cardboard to prevent the teeth from scraping anything. They clear the tailgate when the left rear seatback is vertical. They won’t clear if it is reclined any. I carry them year round, and they work very well in mud and snow, not just deep sand. Two is enough, four is better. You can buy a carry bag, but I don’t see the need for it. They are NOT intended for bridging (such as a deep washout), because they are not stout enough. If you pile rocks underneath, they could work. John Davies Spokane WA

This guy is a SPAMMER.

Is this what you have in mind? https://www.nps.gov/dino/planyourvisit/echo-park.htm Many of these primitive tracks are impassible when wet, use caution, wait for roads to dry out after a summer thunderstorm, which they do quickly. Bring basic recovery gear. A pair of Max Trax boards will make you feel a LOT better about venturing off pavement and they pretty much eliminate the need for serious equipment like a winch, if you are careful and don’t take chances... John Davies Spokane WA

I think member DavidS has a Q7 turbo diesel and he is very happy with its towing performance and fuel economy. He accepts the lack of dealer support in remote Utah, but so far I think he hasn’t had a bad experience. That is the main reason I mentioned it. I personally have owned two older Audis and will never get another. They are very labor intensive to work on and can be nightmare out of warranty. That first reason is EXACTLY why we bought a Land Cruiser. We wanted to be able to travel the back country without worrying about getting stranded, and without the harsher ride of a truck. It will take you along remote farm or ranch roads, or washed out rocky forest roads over 14,000 ft passes with absolute poise, comfort and reliability. The problem with some other choices is that you cannot easily fit LT All Terrain tires, which are absolutely necessary in the boonies to prevent flat tires due to sidewall cuts. The 200 with its 18” wheels and (non-standard) LT tires is very rugged. Plus it has a full sized spare under the back. New 200s are pricey, you could look for a Certifed three or four year old one with less than 60k miles for maybe $50k. These trucks hold their value extremely well but you shouldn’t be afraid to buy a nice used one. I am the fourth owner, I bought it with 85,000 miles for $42k two years ago. It has no squeaks, the interior still looks brand new and it drives beautifully. I would not hestitate to advise you to buy a used 200 with a solid maintenence history, but the same can’t be said for other brands. I agree 100% with overland, a half ton truck would not take very long to adjust to and they have many advantages over any SUV. The trailering features can’t be beat. Have you priced new pickups? Land Cruisers are expensive vehicles but they are not all that much more than a new loaded truck or a new Disco. John Davies Spokane WA

Welcome to the forum, Search is not very useful, as you found out. How many miles do you plan to drive, towing? Not towing? Do you plan to go into the high mountains of the West? Do you live and drive in a big city? I can't comment directly on the Disco, other than the fact that nobody buys these with towing equipment should raise a HUGE red flag. These are not reliable vehicles in the best of situations. I would never chose to tow more than a small teardrop or utility trailer with any Land Rover model... you won’t find a shop that can work on one in the middle of nowhere. Think about it. The Q7 might be a good choice. It does well pulling the bigger Ollie. It still has the problem of no dealers outside of the bigger urban areas, and Audi VW vehicles require many specialty tools to work on that most independent shops would not have access to. The big Mercedes SUVs would do the job. Same probelm with service. For each brand you are researching, check for official dealers in the places you will visit.... All these brands are super expensive to repair when out of warranty. If you buy an extended warranty or trade in often this would be a non- issue. Don’t obsess over run flat tires. They can be replaced with regular ones, and you can throw a spare tire on the roof for a long road trip. They are definitely a negative, but you can find a safe solution. You might consider a full sized medium wheel base SUV like the Aviator you mentioned, but many are a little marginal in terms of trailer capacity. The problem is the shorter wheelbase, which makes the rig less stable than a full sized pickup on bad road surfaces and cross winds. Have you considered a newer Land Cruiser or Sequoia? They have the same brute drivetrain as a Tundra and even the smallest city in remote areas has a Toyota dealer. They are wonderful on the open highway and not bad in town, the LC has full surround cameras and proximity warning. A LC 200 was my final choice for a powerful, bulletproof, luxury road tripper that will safely pull my 6000 pound Ollie. I have no regrets. I never worry about finding a place to fix it in remote Wyoming, though there are dozens, since they never break.... they are the best built vehicles on the planet. http://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/land-cruiser-200-towing-thread/ The Elite II trailers are small and sleek, but when well equipped they are pretty heavy. Don’t buy an inadequate TV. Don’t expect to load down the tongue with a lot of cargo, keep it as light as possible .... too much tongue weight is your main enemy. You are doing your research before buying either, which is the right approach. Good luck on your quest. John Davies Spokane WA

I have to comment that it will be a really tight fit if you intend to sleep with your dogs inside the trailer. I have two 40 lb Labradoodles and it is tough in our bigger unit, sometimes. One dog would not be an issue. Floor space is the problem. John Davies Spokane WA

We have discussed the 4Runner as a tow vehicle for the Elite in the past and the general consensus is that it is “adequate” in the eastern states, but when you get into the high hot mountains it does not perform well. It just does not have enough reserve capacity to handle the load easily. Everyone wants good mpgs and good towing performance. It’s a goal that is almost impossible to achieve without going to a turbo diesel. Gas engines are inherently very thirsty when loaded down for days at a time. To be honest, the 4Runner has pretty discouraging economy even driven around empty. There are much better choices. Though it is one heck of a fine trucklet. I am a huge fan of Toyota “real” SUVs. I am not counting the cars and crossovers. For some reason all of the SUVs, including Sequoia, Land Cruiser and the big Tundra, all get really poor fuel economy. I am not sure the reason. Maybe because they are heavily built. http://www.fuelly.com/car/toyota/4runner If you can tolerate driving a full sized vehicle, an F150 2.7 EcoBoost would be a great choice for the little trailer. Lots of power and teriffic mpgs for this class of vehicle. 19/ 24 mpg with 10 speed and 4wd, which you definitely need. ... https://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2016/04/best-ford-f-150-engine-smallest-one-can-buy/ John Davies Spokane WA

Getting back to your initial situation.... filling the fresh tank on a slight slope is fine (butt low). It does get a little extra water into the tank since the vent/ overflow is towards the front. But when you level the trailer and start travelling you will get some more flow there as the excess water escapes. On a really rough road you can lose some of your supply due to sloshing. This is how it works in the II. I assume your Elite is similar. This a downside to the “long and low” design of the tank. A tall tank with a high vent does not have this issue. It is a steep learning curve at first but it gets easier ... You do have a harder than normal job ahead of you because you are learning in the cold season which stresses both the owner and the trailer more than learning in May. Good luck. John Davies Spokane Wa

This is the first I have heard of this. I was under the impression you should not lube since most lubricants attract (even more) dust. Mine groans loudly for a couple of days after a wash or rainfall, otherwise it is quiet. Can you elaborate please? John Davies Spokane WA

Well, I appreciate the pics but they don’t help much. This (edited) one seems to indicate that your front tray is around 8” from the bumper... If you could acurrately measure that distance for me the next time you visit your Ollie, I would appreciate it. Also, with your tray in that location, are there any issues with clearance at either the tire cover or the hull? What bike goes there? Thanks. John Davies Spokane WA

Welcome to the Forum! I don’t think anyone can really answer that question. I used to worry about over stressing the hitch parts, but in reality after 6000 miles with the Anderson, I don’t think you will hurt anything while driving straight on a smooth surface. I have gone up a very short steep approach to a parking lot from the street that scared me, afterwards. The back of the trailer frame smashed hard into the pavement, but nothing else happened. When you do this, the hitch tries to lift the back wheels of the tow vehicle off the ground. If your TV has limited rear wheel travel and is not full time AWD, you may get tire spin or get stuck. (This is why a guy with a boat and an equalizing hitch takes the bars off before retrieving his boat, so he doesn’t get stuck on a slick steep ramp.) I don’t worry about normal driving with the Andersen...But I do worry about going onto really uneven ground where the trailer will twist east and the TV will go west at the same time. Because the ball wears so weirdly due to the heavy forward load of the chains, you end up with a small canyon worn into the otherwise smooth ball. When you get crossed up in an unplowed field, the coupler will snap out of that groove with a bang and do the same when it pops back in. This is disconcerting and I don’t think it is at all good for the coupler. With the chains loosened up the coupler can move around on the top part of the ball with minimal stress. My policy is to loosen the nuts so that there is zero compression on the bushings when venturing into this sort of situation. The trailer and hitch seem much happier. Ultimately I hope to get rid of the Andersen entirely by shifting my cargo tray to the back of the trailer to lighten the tongue enough to just use a dead weight offroad hitch like member “overland” has..... Carrying a ton of weight up front just makes the Andersen situation worse since the chains have to be much tighter. To those who must use an Andersen, I don’t recomment buying the tongue cargo tray for this reason. I think it is not a good combination.... Did this help? John Davies Spokane WA

I love The Fast Lane. These guys really know how to make an entertaining and informative video. They just bought a ten year old Land Cruiser 200 with the intention of converting it into a true overland vehicle.... These trucks just walk up nasty terrain that is hard or impassible for most rigs, with no stress or trauma. They make the driver feel invincible. From the comments: Reading Land Cruiser forums be like: "So today I drove from New York to the Congo with stock everything and a snorkel." Reading Range Rover forums be like: "What's that liquid on my floor board? Where is that smell coming from? Is something on fire?" Love it! John Davies Spokane WA

I am going to build a rear rack so I can mount my Oliver cargo tray there. However, I would like to also make sure that I could remove the tray and mount a single 1-Up bike tray (for an ebike) onto the 4” wide cross beam. So how far back from the bumper should I position the center of the tray? I am guessing 9”, like so: The average mountain bike handlebar is around 31 inches plus a little extra for some bar ends. Say 17” from center to end, to be safe. How much room do I need to adequately clear the back of the hull? I also need to make sure there is adequate tire clearance for the crank arm and pedal. I don’t mind if I have to position the crank arm horizontally to clear the tire, or even remove that pedal entirely.... Please measure your innermost tray from its centerline to the back of the bumper, and tell me if you think it would be better if it were repositioned, and why. Also, what bike you carry there.... pictures are good. I don’t have a bike right now. That would have helped with my visualizing the position. Thanks, John Davies Spokane WA

Sounds like a thermostat problem, that is the only common point in the wiring of the two systems as far as I know. Can you just pull the circuit breaker for the AC for now? If that doesn't do it, take the 'stat off the wall and disconnect the low voltage wires for the heat strip. Tape them so they can't short out. Refer to your manual for the diagram. I don't have this setup.... "Mouse" has a 1950s style mercury thermostat for the furnace and no heat strip. Crude, but 100% reliable. Good luck. John Davies Spokane WA

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/668552-SQ5-Air-Ride-need-advice It sounds like an expensive and labor intensive mod. How reliable are these Audi kits? Do you have a good European repair shop that can do the installation for less than the dealer? I bet Portland dealers are charging at least $150 per hr.... am I close? The last time I had an Audi worked on it was in Spokane about a decade back, and they charged $120. I think it’s beyond criminal. OTH they have to pay for that super luxurious waiting area. The VW dealer is less costly with their vinyl chairs. LOL. Good luck. John Davies Spokane WA

My microwave draws 75 amps through the big inverter power cable, measured with a clamp-on inductive amp meter. The inverter - AKA the "Battery Killer"- is definitely a luxury item that you need to use very wisely so that you have plenty of time to recharge your batteries. Don't cook a bunch of 6 minute TV dinners on High just before dark. Do them while the sun is brightly shining on your panels, and cook outdoors on a grill in the evening. Even a dinky little 110 VAC ventilation fan is going to suck maybe 10 amps DC out of y0ur house batteries. It really makes sense to switch to efficient 12V DC marine appliances where possible. This is on my Christmas Wish List: ... https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01LDY4TE4/?coliid=I14ORXBQ0IDTF1&colid=1X5H11EH41351&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it to replace this: .... https://www.amazon.com/Vornado-CR1-0253-43-Small-Whole-Circulator/dp/B01BF3XYMQ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1544728555&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=vornado+fan&psc=1 The Vornado is a terrific fan but it is a real power sucker when run through the inverter. John Davies Spokane WA

Can’t you just hang the plug vertically so water can't get in? It is also necessary to seal the entry into the plug housing, using silicone sealer. Water goes in that opening too. That is what I do and I have never had that problem, but maybe I have been lucky and it just hasn’t happened yet. Plus I live in a dry climate. John Davies Spokane WA

Re: chocking wheels. You learned your lesson, you must always ALWAYS firmly chock both sides of the axle whenever disconnecting the hitch, regardless of how level the ground looks. Kick the chocks in tight with your foot. Especially with a single axle trailer, there is nothing to stop the trailer from pivoting around except a little friction between the front jack and whatever surface it is resting on... With a tandem that is less likely. But the same rule applies. Once the rear stabilizers are down it should not move. Maybe. I suggest that you check the three bolts holding the front jack to the a-frame. A big jolt like that can loosen stuff and also damage the gearing inside. Any unusual noises when you operate it? Nice pics. I am waiting for the snow pictures.... where was your campsite? Pretty setting. John Davies Spokane WA

That is a cool hanger but if you have the cargo tray it won’t work. An 18” bungee cord works great to hang the Anderson parts, and when coupled to the tow vehicle you use it to wrap around the wire harness to keep it up off the ground. John Davies Spokane WA

Actually the specs say 1600 pound payload, and that is supposed to stay the same regardless of trim level. Many Jeeps end up with bigger tires that kill power, plus a few hundred pounds of heavy duty chassis armor, bumpers, winches, racks, jerry cans etc etc, so it will really help to have the little cushion that the 1600 pound figure gives. This truck is going to need more ground clearance if taken offroad. The breakover angle is appallingly bad due to the really long wheelbase. Getting it raised up by taller springs and larger tires will lessen that problem. A big plus for the Rubicon with its lower gearing and taller factory ride height.... One thing that really appeals to me about the big Power Wagon is that the moderate payload already factors in the mass of a factory winch, lockers, lift, big tires, armor etc. So you don’t have to worry about losing any payload by adding those features. The Gladiator Rubicon is a similar vehicle in that respect. Good article here: http://www.fourwheeler.com/news/1811-the-new-jeep-2020-gladiator-pickup-revealed/ John Davies Spokane WA

The fuse box is of poor quality and this is a common problem. I have had issues twice with power to the fridge. The cause is, as you found out, due to weak prongs in the sockets, that do not grasp the fuse tabs very well. If you are careless when inserting a fuse it can spread the prongs and then you get an intermittent or non-existent connection. Solution 1: carefully remove ALL fuses, squeeze the prongs back together slightly, and carefully reinsert the fuses straight in without rocking. Insulated mini needle nose pliers are useful. Don't short anything out! You might want to disconnect the batteries to be safe, but I never bother. Solution 2: Replace the entire converter/ fuse box/ breaker box assembly with a better quality unit. That is pretty drastic. I have not yet reached that point, but I may do this one day. I do not understand why Oliver uses this unit instead of a more reliable one. I also do not understand why the fuse door hinge is not reversible. It is TRULY a HUGE PITA to have the door swing toward you. As far as "resetting" the furnace when it runs out of gas, you just need to cycle it a few times. Even that is usually not needed unless you removed a bottle and got some air in the line. You can also turn on and click a burner on the range until you see a flame. That will purge any air out of the line so the furnace can light off. If the gas pressure drops too far, the appliances will quit. As soon as the new bottle is selected and the pressure comes back up, they all should operate normally. Good luck. Pass your fuse problem on to the factory using the Service Request page so they can keep up with this issue. You might want to consider a backup electric heat source if you have shore power, set to a lower temperature, and maybe a remote temp alarm (cellular or bluetooth) that connects yo your phone, so that you will know immediately if something has gone wrong. Something like this which is on my Wish List: ... https://www.amazon.com/SensorPush-Wireless-Thermometer-Hygrometer-Android/dp/B01AEQ9X9I/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1487193255&sr=8-2&keywords=SensorPush+Wireless+Thermometer+/+Hygrometer&linkCode=sl1&tag=newwweather-20&linkId=4cf6a5e3a8dbe2e30859502d67de972c John Davies Spokane WA

I think that is coming sooner than later. The new Lincoln Aviator: Under the hood, there's just one engine offered: a twin-turbocharged 3.0 liter V6 making 400 horsepower with 400 foot-pounds of torque. But there's another drivetrain available: A sporty Grand Touring model will have 450 horsepower and 600 foot-pounds of torque. It uses the same V6 but couples it with a plug-in hybrid system. https://www.fool.com/investing/2018/12/02/why-the-all-new-2019-lincoln-aviator-is-a-big-deal.aspx That sort of electric boost would do wonders when accelerating, and I don’t see why it won’t be offered in light duty pickups. I am not sure how long the boost would work climbing up toward the Eisenhower Tunnel, but it could help for short steep clmbs. You would need enough reserve torque to use in case you ran the battery pack too low. The Aviator does not have the ability to recharge the pack on the move, there definitely needs to be a small APU (auxiliary power unit) that could run on long trips to recharge. A small constant rpm rotary or similar mini-engine would work, they can make them very small and stick one under a seat. There is talk about using one of these opposed piston engines as an onboard generator: John Davies Spokane WA

Sherry, these trucks will be selling for MSRP, or marked way up, for a while. There will be a crazy feeding frenzy, then the price will come down to normal. If you want a new one, wait at least a year. I think buying a two or three year old low miles Certified Gladiator with no scrapes and dents on the skid plates or rocker guards, one that was built in 2020 so the bugs are worked out, would make a lot of sense... look for one that already has the Mopar 2” lift and 35 inch tires. That is how this truck should have come from the factory. John Davies Spokane WA

https://gearjunkie.com/dethleffs-e-home-coco-rv-trailer-electric-motor..... You can also park it with your smart phone without a tow vehicle.... Sorry this drifted off topic. John Davies Spokane WA

I read about the Rivian and don't recall if they mentioned a range while towing. If it is less than 200 with an Ollie in back, you will certainly have range anxiety on just about every trip. And towing out west in states with VERY limited charging choices will be impossible. For getting your boat to the lake it might work very well as long as you can get back to your home charger at night. I do like the looks, except for the Happy Face on the front, .... and I like the vast amout of secure storage. Perfect for personal stuff you want to keep hidden. I don’t think combining all vehicles into one thread is wise. The title of a thread has to have the subject in it or Search will become completely disfunctional.Members need to contact Matt Duncan and tell him to make it useful instead of a joke. John Davies Spokane WA