John E Davies

I don't have the Truma, but I can suggest that you clean it internally (chemically de-scale it) before you winterize and drain it. Deposits that are left to harden over the winter will be harder to remove in the Spring. Do you have the inside control panel? I sure hope so.... How do you like the unit so far? John Davies Spokane WA

Hi Bill, no "Mouse" rides almost level, just very slightly nose high. If I had a dead weight ball mount I could fine tune the angle a little with washers under the ball - I wish the Anderson unit had a finer spacing between holes on the rack. There is plenty of metal between the existing holes. They could be drilled a little nearer to each other without losing any strength. John Davies Spokane WA

Queued up last week at the Kingston WA ferry dock, before crossing to the Seattle area: The ticket taker took a single glance out his window, saw white fiberglass and wrote up the fair as "Under 40 ft" [attachment file=Oliver Ferry ticket.png] which saved us the price of a fast food meal... I don't know if he noticed that the Ollie was longer than "normal" as we passed by. [attachment file=Ferry Fares.png] I was hoping we could park at the extreme front end of the ship (it is not called the bow because the ships sail in both directions) so I could take some cool pics, but Mouse was buried deep inside. Taking the ferry is fun, saves about 90 minutes driving and 60 miles of gas in heavy traffic, and makes for a great way to get to or from the Olympic Peninsula and the National Park/ Pacific ocean beaches area. [attachment file=wsf route map.pdf] It is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT that you time your passage so that you are not at peak rush time. We intentionally chose mid-morning on a Sunday, and there was zero waiting traffic to cross east to Seattle. Late in the afternoon would have been a different story.... If you don't study the schedule, you may end up waiting for several hours in a miles long line of RVs and day tourists. It can be very frustrating if you don't plan well. John Davies Spokane WA wsf-route-map.pdf

The isolation valve under the front dinette does a great job of preventing grey water from sloshing up through the shower drain when towing ...... BUT it also blocks off the vent system. So the only way for the grey tank to vent is through the kitchen sink. I have had “burping” occur on fast high mountain climbs, where the tank sends stinky smells up through the water trap as the air inside expands quickly. Plus the main sink is really slow to drain unless you pull the handle. And dumping the tank is much slower without it open. Leaving the kitchen sink plugged may help with burping, but then the draining issue is much worse. A second 1 inch or larger vent line that bypasses the valve, loops high (to prevent fluid passage) and tees into the vent lines under the front vanity would help things work correctly. I know that a long low tank design has inherent problems, but the system could work much better. Comments? John Davies Spokane WA,

1: Remove spare tire cover, clean, wrap and store it on a secure shelf in your garage. 2: http://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/howw-to-service-your-spare-tire-without-removing-it/ John Davies Spokane WA

Get the shorter wheelbase model. Unless you were going to tow a very large/ heavy trailer you will never see any stability difference. If you started talking about a short SUV, say 100” WB, that is a very different story. John Davies Spokane WA

My system does have a big inline fuse for the inverter supply cab, it is mounted (and a little hidden) at the back wall of the front electronics compartment (under the rear dinette seat). There is no disconnect, I may add one of those but it is not a priority for me. Thanks for the info. John Davies Spokane WA

Matt, so I grounded my inverter at a different location than the bulletin requires. Will my cables have to be completely reworked to meet the exact wording of the bulletin? My TWO big 4AWG cables are grounded at the battery support pillar (which is welded directly to the frame at the bottom). It is as good a ground point as the stud described in the bulletin. I just hate to see my good work ripped out if it is OK, because as an ex-A &P mechanic I know my work is of better quality than the typical RV tech. I have seen the kind of work some of them do and it can be very ugly. If my work will have to be redone, I will just refuse to comply with this bulletin. You can send the Oliver Police to my door to arrest me. Please advise. John Davies Spokane WA

How to inspect and clean the TWO vent air filters. Yes, there are two, one at each side opening. It is really easy if you do this when the toilet is removed for servicing and cleaning. I set mine on a workbench for easy viewing. Front exhaust filter. Remove the two housing machine screws and lower the unit onto the nearest star wheel arm to support the delicate fan wires. Remove the two fan screws and carefully pry the fan and filter away from the rubber gasket. Leave the gasket undisturbed. Seperate the fan from the filter. Blow off the accumulated dust from the filter and the fan blades (hold the fan with a finger so it does not spin). Reassemble. My filter was visually clogged with fine coconut coir dust but it was still pulling air. Note: if you keep the coir moist with fresh water from the sink sprayer, it reduces the amount of fine particles that might get sucked into the exhaust fan when the wheel is rotated. If it is allowed to dry out (turns a very light brown color on top) it will send lots of dust into the filter. Rear inlet filter. Remove the housing and then the filter, clean and reinstall. This filter was barely dirty. This was the first time I have cleaned these in 18 months. The manufacturer recommends to check them every two weeks. LOL.... I think annually is fine, unless you have really fluffy dogs that shed. After cleaning the fan did move more air. It is really important to keep positive flow of air through the toilet for it to function well. John Davies Spokane WA

FYI everyone, the bulletin just came out. Check your email. Matt, your Bulletin contains a couple of serious errors, I Messaged you about them! I am glad that there has been prompt action on this safety issue. Those of us that fixed this ourselves - must we have a stupid RV worker bee inspect the work to get the Oliver Tech bulletin signed off? I would like to be reimbursed for just the materials used, is that possible? My labor was free. Thanks. John Davies Spokane WA

Kenny, can you please start a new thread about your own truck, pictures, mods, driving impressions, issues etc? You can update it with towing info after you get your Ollie. I think it will work fantastic as a TV for a 6000 pound trailer, my only hesitation is the new power plant. How has that been holding up, in the real world and in your own experience? have you thought about tuning it? You could get an extra few mpg and 100 ft lbs, easily. ... http://afepower.com/media/catalog/product/files/pdpfiles/7/7/77-46101j1600.1472848785.jpg Thanks. John Davies Spokane WA

I have neither switch nor visible fan on Hull 218. All I have is noise..... I think I will have to disconnect the gas and the wiring and slide the fridge into the cabin for a look later this Fall. Maybe I should just slide a 12 volt compressor one back in. ;) John Davies Spokane WA

If you are really wanting a long range, then a diesel is for you. When I towed with a 2006 Ram Cummins 5.9, I loved the loooong times between fillips. I got 14-16 towing unless in really steep terrain or high headwinds, and the tank was 36 gallons. Empty it got 20 to 22. My Land Cruiser gets 10-12 towing and 16 empty at 60 mph, with no mods except for "plus 2" mud tires and a roof rack, both of which kill fuel economy. I can live with the poor range because I wanted a tow vehicle that was superior offroad and uber reliable, for exploring remote areas. I compensate by carrying extra fuel, so I can top off if needed from the cans before I go exploring. Or if I should run dry, which has never happened. You can get bigger replacement main tanks or aux tanks for diesels, no problem, so you could cross the country without refueling if that were your goal. You cannot get an aux tank for a gas truck due to emissions laws, mainly the evaporative system. I think that is a stupid law. It is MUCH more dangerous transferring gas manually from a can than from an under-bed tank with a built in transfer pump. Anyway, it sounds as if a diesel would be a really good fit for you, especially since you have owned one in the past. Have you checked out the Nissan Titan XD "heavy half ton"? That might be a good fit. Depending on the rear suspension, you might not need the Anderson hitch, which would be a big plus IMHO. I am not sure what the tongue weight limits are. https://www.motortrend.com/cars/nissan/titan-xd/2016/2016-nissan-titan-xd-pro-4x-diesel-review-long-term-verdict/ John Davies Spokane WA

I think you might be OK with the 3.55 ratio, but I 110% KNOW that the truck will be much livelier, satisfying to drive and get better mpgs towing with the 3.92 axles. Changing the drive ratio by that much makes a serious increase in power delivered to the wheels. The only real downside will be slightly reduced mpgs when cruising empty. If you are getting 4wd, and you should, and you also expect to install larger diameter or all terrain/ mud tires, get the 3.92 without question. Bigger or heavier tires kill towing performance. No matter how much you like that truck you drove, the tow package will make it run significantly stronger in stressful conditions, like hot, high 12% mountain grades. Are you sure you want a diesel, and are you aware of the emission issues (DPF and urea injection) and the high long term costs of repair? If you definitely want one, buy a good extended warranty. If I were buying a Ram today I would be looking at the 2500 6.4 liter Hemi. I have owned a couple of diesels and never plan to go down that particular road again. John Davies Spokane WA

My fan is not there Reed... the only thing in that area is the top of the coils. I cannot see the fan anywhere, top or bottom. It screeches, so I know when it runs.... why would anyone think that putting it in a completely inaccessible location would be acceptable? If I don’t get an answer here in a few days I will file a service request. My suspicion is that it is mounted in the area circled. I am guessing by the sound, because it is completely buried. John Davies Spokane WA

How do I get to it? I cannot even see it with a mirror. It howls and I would like to find a better quality unit. Do I have to slide the fridge into the cabin? I dont’t think the Dometic manual discusses the fan, is this added by Oliver? Thanks. John Davies Spokane WA

I ended up with 16 inch sections of a gray 48 inch fiberglass driveway marker pole. Three windows, three pieces from a single pole. It’s fiberglass and 3/8 “ diameter and after filing the cut ends it looks nice enough. The stop does actually keep the rod in place pretty well. I got the pole at a local ranch supply for about $2. I use them along my walk and drive in winter. John Davies Spokane WA

I think it would be great if you could order one with a 2 inch receiver, which is by FAR the most common size. Also the receiver needs a lip around the rear opening so you can attach a ubolt style “slopper stopper”. But that would be easy to add later at a local shop. I like it, but I bet I could fabricate one easily for less than $200. There is no structural welding that I can see. Cutting aluminum and drilling holes in it is dead easy.... one big advantage of this design is that it makes shipping reasonable. They can strap the pieces into a very compact bundle and place the hardware inside one of the legs. John Davies Spokane WA

Will your insurance cover property losses from theft if you intentionally leave your stuff unsecured? I bet there would be big problems with the claim. What about firearms? And personal valuables, credit cards and IDs? Leaving unrestricted access into the cabin is just not on the table. Regardless of any killer Australian Killadoodles that might be inside. If you are worried about getting locked out, hide a spare under the frame. Or just carry a second one at all times, as I do. If your post was a joke, I did not get it.... John Davies Spokane WA

True, but it is not a very strong anchor point. It is intended to stop a slow lightweight window under normal operation, not one that is being forced open hard by an intruder. It might work, but I would worry about it.... maybe you could beef it up by screwing a section of aluminum bar into the track behind the stop, with two or three extra screws. John Davies Spokane WA

For those times when I leave the trailer but want to keep some ventilation flowing. I thought about a piece of round steel bar lying in the window track, but the end of the slot curves up and I think a hard push on the window would launch it clean out of there. Any ideas? I prefer No Drill, but that would be an option. I think most residential add-on window locks are a joke, but maybe there is one I haven!t seen that would work here.... Thanks, John Davies Spokane WA

Just FYI, the OLEII will have a higher tongue weight, depending on your options and where you carry stuff outside the trailer. Mine is 6000 approximately/ 620 with three jerry cans empty, 720 with them full. All cans are strapped to the factory storage tray. The folks with 500 tongue weight have a lighter spec and don't carry stuff in front. Now for the most IMPORTANT thing, what color is your new truck? White is best. John Davies Spokane WA

It seems as if you could just have a stout aircraft aluminum cross member welded up by a shop, using say a 2 x 4" box shape for rigidity, through-bolt a steel 2" hitch receiver tube to it, and use the same sort of double receiver setup as the discontinued factory units to plug it into the frame structure. That would be strong, and also very wear resistant where the bike hitch plugs in, and also fairly inexpensive. It's the welding labor and extra gussetting (strengthening the 90 degree connected parts) that makes the factory rack cost so much.... One thing to consider when talking about simply bolting a steel aftermarket receiver to an aluminum cross member is that you run into various engineering problems, like dissimilar metal corrosion (requiring bedding onto a non conducting surface), different thermal expansion rates (aluminum expands twice as fast, fasteners may loosen in cold weather and the part may shift), rust staining, gouging or distortion of the softer aluminum surface, etc. Adding a highly stressed steel part to an aluminum beam is tough. Oliver reportedly had problems with their original method of attaching the Bulldog coupler and had to add internal alumnum spacers and use proper length bolts (no threads past the inside of the nut) to get it to work reliably. If you can figure out a way to build a strong $200 hybrid aluminum/ steel bike rack, I will make one for myself. I am not an engineer, but I can see all sorts of problems if it is not built right. I would love to be able to plug in a high quality bike rack and also be able to swap it over to the truck when not towing. Unfortunately, the center receiver has a lot of problems associated with it and I think the solid full width all-alluinum platform is a much better solution. I would be happier with the design if it one could remove the bike attachments quickly and fold up the tray without blocking the rear lights. I hope the new version will be this capable. John Davies Spokane WA

I researched both, and decided that I wanted AAA’s Premier RV plan for its 200 mile towing limit. I don’t think Good Sam has a program to match that. I am occasionally in very remote areas, like central WY or southern ID, and it can be a long way to a repair shop. https://wa.aaa.com/membership/plans/premier-rv?zip=99019&stateprov=wa&city=liberty+lake&devicecd=TB I have been happy with AAA forever, the only problem is that the wait time for a truck can be excessive, and if there are a lot of slide-off accidents due to inclement weather, you may never get one. In that case, you get whoever you can to haul you in, pay for it and get reimbursed later. That is painless. I never run out of gas, I carry a lithium jump starter box, my tires rarely explode, so I normally never use their services, but I do feel better having it available in case of collision or sliding into a ditch. The long tow range comforts me when I am in the boonies in my Land Cruiser. If my stuck truck is located on or close to a forest or ranch road that the tow truck can get to, they will come and get me. I may be completely out of cell coverage, in that case I can use my inReach to get my wife or daughter to send a truck to the gps coordinates. OTH I use the AAA 10% discount lots of places, like NAPA and at all motels. Check the various plan discounts to see if there are any you might use often, and buy that plan, all other things being equal.... I think many campgrounds have Good Sam discounts, that may be a factor for you to think about. I rarely stay in a commercial place unless forced to by really bad planning or by worse luck. John Davies Spokane WA

http://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/natures-head-composting-toilet-installation-in-an-oliver-big-thread/ John Davies Spoakne WA