csevel

Weighs 9#

Just wanted to share an item that I've found recently that I'm pretty impressed with. I have used various pieces of treated lumber in the past and will still carry a few for sloped sites where I need to lower the bow more, but I recently was looking for a better (and safer) option for the front jack post while parked in my driveway or at level sites. It's called an Ox Blox. They can be purchased in a pack (4) for the rear stabilizers as well. I only ordered one for now to test it out as it's a little pricey for a hunk of 9# plastic, but so far, I really like it. It can support up to 10K pounds. I added the knotted red rope handles for ease of use. I know there are other options like Andersen but I'm liking it's low profile and the recycled plastic. https://www.amazon.com/Trailer-Camper-Blocks-stabilizer-Supports/dp/B09DMM51FP/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2QDUHSRGXH4DQ&keywords=Ox+blox&qid=1649865895&sprefix=ox+blox%2Caps%2C178&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=A2VI3MSVP5BC79&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzR0dXVTcwMUFBVFJDJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzg3NTkzMjk4MVVISThCUE1WRCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDgwODAwMklGNEtXWTNDVzRLTSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

This is one of my worst nightmares! I am so happy you and your loved ones are alive! I have noticed in recent years how many people are distracted and crossing the centerline. I see it and am on the lookout all the time, even within five miles of my house! I can't even imagine the terror of rolling with camper in tow. Blessings to you and your search for a new Ollie 🙂 ♥️

Well then! Back to the drawing board as I DO have the Dexter E-Z flex Suspension! Now I'm completely confused! My goodness..does it have to be this hard??

I did receive a timely response from Jason Essary: "The preferred method for a dual axle camper is to use an EZ Jack tire chock. If you do not have an EZ jack chock then locate the closest frame point, to the wheel that will be removed, and place cribbing between the frame & jack so that the pressure is spread across the cribbing" I do in fact have the Andersen Rapid Jack from my Casita days in addition to the smaller Andersen leveler which I use for the front tire for side to side leveling on the ILOVHER. I guess I was NOT thinking! Makes perfect sense for roadside flats or bearing failures (which I hope doesn't ever happen to me)..DUH!

Yeah, you're right! My Dad simply left me out of the mechanical stuff and reserved his knowledge for my brothers. He died when I was 21 so I never got to ask him these things now that they are important. The brothers..well, they live in other states.

I didn't mean to revive the beaten topic as I've noticed this has come up time and time again through searching and I know there are a number of variables that would predicate different jacking methods, but since I'm a girl with limited knowledge, I'd like to feel confident lifting the trailer in the right spot whether on the side of the road or in my driveway. I have a 3 ton floor jack to use for in-driveway maintenance or rotations, but obviously wouldn't have that available on the side of the road. I have a 2 ton bottle jack that I could use roadside if the onboard jacks shouldn't be used for flat tires.. So the question is the spring plate the right spot if I don't have the steel subframe? Thanks for all of your help!

I do have a service ticket for May. I'm in a place where learning to do my own maintenance and/or repairs is important and I excite for the learning experience. However, my tireless research on the forum and elsewhere has left me a bit confused. There's many ways to skin the cat I've gleaned - and since Olivers are constructed differently in different years, I'm having a hard time nailing down how to properly lift my ILOVHER. My Casita (OCD) was simple. The Oliver service bulletin doesn't seem to apply in my case. I will be traveling quite a distance to my first rally and these type of things are just worth knowing if I end up on the side of the road. Thanks for all of your help!!

I know I'm reviving an old thread but my '17 does not have the steel overlay forward OR aft of the tires as shown in the photo above. I know because I used a magnet to see. Am I safe in just using the spring plate to place jack stands under while I do bearing, lube and brake work??

This was removed, properly sealed and modified last summer

This was exactly how I was able to identify the moisture, by removing the left partition in the attic (and the associated electrical outlet and antenna box) to get to the base plate of my corner TV and mount. There was no moisture in the main attic itself...just on the ceiling behind the white reflectix in the dark cauldron of tangled wires! I did not want to mess with removing wires or cords that someone after me might want so I they just got zip tied and neatly placed inside. The moisture was fairly prevalent on the ceiling surface. I know it's not my rear upper taillight as that was properly sealed this past summer. I will check it again in a few days when the weather changes. Thanks for your help.

Interesting visual! I'm well aware of condensation as I had a fiberglass Casita for ten years with single pane windows.. Double hull is a whole nuther animal!!

I'm a second owner so I have no idea if Oliver gives a credit for nixing the TV on a new build.. HUMID? I wish..Nope..NE Ohio!

Today I tackled the removal of the television! ILOVHER ('17) has her TV installed in the corner which prevents flipping the mattress up fully to access the valves. It's also a head knocker for anyone who ever would sleep there although the DH sleeps with his head at the galley end. I considered the center position above the nightstand with a flip up mount but we simply NEVER watch TV while camping and if inclement weather shackles us indoors, we can always download movies or whatnot on to our tablets. I'll hold on to the set for sale or maybe someday when I'm older and less active..buy a newer lighter smart TV. However.... what I encountered was a mess of tangled wires and cords!! I tried to neatly keep things zip tied together and out of the way but my concern is the amount of condensation I was feeling up there! It is below freezing today and I did have the furnace going to keep me warm while working, but how much condensation is too much between the shells? I know we have weep holes at the bottom of the trailer but I'm concerned with all of that wiring that something might fry. Should I worry about it? I had some snap caps left over from my Casita days so that made the bolt holes look acceptable. It looks so much better and I'm happy with it gone and out of the way!

The bearings I received from Summit have the QR code as in the right photo and also have raised 'Timken' black print below it. I scanned the bar code from the box on the WBA app. Not sure what else I'm supposed to do besides wait for a reply from Timken as I don't know what 'suspicious' is supposed to mean. The app is fairly basic and not really informative. Summit Racing has been highly recommended by forum members here and is supposed to be an authorized distributor. Just wanted to give others a heads up if these aren't authentic.

I'm getting ready to attempt my bearing repack, shock replacement and lube of the EZ-Flex suspension on ILOVHER as soon as the weather gets reasonable here in the Northeast! I'm lucky to be able to have my brother help me so I'm hopeful things will be straightforward. I ordered the Timken bearings from Summit Racing as suggested here to the tune of $150..including the SET17 and SET4 bearings, 4 seals and Redline CV-2 grease but... An FYI: I used the WBA app to verify that the bearings aren't counterfeit and they are coming up 'suspicious.' I filled out the information and we'll see where this goes. I'm sort of miffed by it but I will wait to see what Timken says..the World Headquarters are only 20 minutes away from Summit. You'd think they'd be legit. Any tips or tricks for this newbie would be greatly appreciated. I like to learn and am hoping things will go well with my brother's help.

I love the wood stove fan for your Buddy. I've seen a few cool Youtube videos of this modification and I plan on doing that to mine someday!

I find it useful for a hand held vacuum but I can't see using that door to access anything else that's stored farther back.

I went from owning three Toyota V8 4Runners to a Tundra. I knew that I had to have secure and dry storage since I was used to a lift gate. I studied tonneaus pretty intensively. I ended up with a BAK Revolver X4 rolling cover. I absolutely love it and it rolls easily, weighs only about 70#, can handle about 400# of evenly distributed weight on top and also locks for security. It's been flawless and looks really nice.

This concerns me as I have a '20 Tundra and I thought I would only have to worry about my cat in my '97 Ford Econoline van, but now BOTH?! I have a friend who loved my truck and wanted similar. He paid more for a pretty stripped 2019 Tundra than I did for my 2020..crazy times! I also say push back a bit more for a total. Good to know that your family is safe. Blessings to you!

There is no wobble at all. The nylon is thicker but it doesn't seem to matter. Since I tend to be a little obsessive, I even took all the stickers off the hatches that 'aren't for storage' and also removed the screws. I added some white snap caps to the screw holes and now have access to all of the compartments in the event of a mechanical need. Obviously, I'm bored. 😉

I've hated my red satin compartment straps since the day I brought ILOVHER home. They never seemed to be on the outside of the lid! I found some of these grommet straps at my local discount outlet store for three for a buck! More robust nylon, longer and and nice grommet to hang on to. A washer and screwdriver and you're done! Here's a link to similar. https://www.amazon.com/TCH-Hardware-Nylon-Strap-Grommets/dp/B085CNGRFP

I just completed my registration for my first ever Oliver Rally this May and my reservation at Guntersville SP. I had no idea until I called the park how full this event would be. It looks like there is great interest which is exciting since the 'Vid cancellation last year! The park has expanded the Oliver blocked loops to include some sites in C, A and B. I was able to get a site in the F loop but I suggest making a reservation soon if you are at all interested! I spent a good number of hours looking at Google Earth, Maps and YouTube videos to make my selection. I'm looking forward to meeting some of you and learning more about my ILOVHER! Holler back if you are attending! I'm also heading to the factory immediately after the rally for a few repairs/mods. WhoooHOo!

We ran the Westinghouse in a Cracker Barrel parking lot this summer to run the air conditioner as it was bleeding hot outside. Even with the PMS disengaged and the water heater turned off, we found it to be pretty loud (even AC on low) and at full tilt of it's capacity. I can't imagine ever using it to run the AC in a campground but it worked well for the busy Cracker Barrel we were at for the night. Ran about six hours total. Got us through a sticky humid evening.

I too am a little apprehensive to spend $100 on a gasket, especially since ILOVHER has had quite a few additional expenditures as of late. Your idea sounded intriguing to me so I went down the investigative rabbit hole. Looks like a can of VHT vinyl dye in black might just be a worthy and less expensive option. I may just try it! https://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP942-Vinyl-Black-Satin/dp/B000CPIN9S?th=1