Tom and Doreen

I believe the temperature sensor is mounted just below the controls.

My ‘23 Tundra is on the recall list but I’m one of the lucky ones ( so far ) with 60k miles, 30k of which pulling our Oliver and no failure as yet. I’ve heard that they’re starting to address the ‘23s in my area soon. I have done frequent oil changes right from the start, hard to know if that made a difference.

The Progressive industries EMS that Oliver supplies does check for an open ground, Error #2 as does the Watchdog; We use both devices.

The museum is awesome. You can boondock there for free, the area is nice. If you want an electric hook-up they charge $40 which includes water but when we were there the hydrants were labeled “non potable”. There is also a dump site there. The Truma service center is close by if you need anything from them.

Like @jd1923 said, take measurements around this circuit breaker, input vs output . These have been known to fail. As John said you should measure 12V on each side with respect to ground.

Someone had recommended this one, High Sierra.

Yes, mine did. It worked pretty well (without the repeater) but there were times when I would loose contact with one tire sensor for a period of time. Once I installed the repeater I’ve had no sensor drop-outs.

If you're looking for a convenient place to hook up your TST repeater there is ample space within the front jack head. +12V power is available and you can utilize the existing power switch currently used for the lamp or add an additional switch if you choose to.

Yes, I have a GearWrench torque wrench, 250 ft//lb that we travel with. We were VERY lucky because we had been on the highway heading out to Yellowstone and had just pulled off to get groceries when the tire stem blew out most likely from the "waggle" affect of the TST sensor. We changed the tire in the parking lot then found a Discount Tire location near where we were and had the stems replaced on all tires including the spare.

1) Using the stabilizer jack is very helpful 2) Change valve stems to the metal type especially if you have TST sensors 3) Invest in an electric impact wrench 4) A locking bottle type jack comes in handy 5) Tire plugs and a compressor can come in handy in a pinch.

Same here. I haven't found anything better than the Calmark cover for all season protection.

We've had two RVLocks fail, on the first one a circuit board failed, the second one had a mechanical failure which we were advised (by the manufacturer) to loosen the internal screws that held a metal plate in place; I don't have a lot of confidence in the second fix but it seems to be working for now. Lot's of people seem to have this lock and are happy with it though.

That is some fine work, John, excellent job!! You'll not only have the confidence in your equipment going forward but you'll also have the knowledge (and tools) to tackle any situation that comes along should something go wrong. Regarding having the parts and tools required at hand I still struggle with that as it seems like no matter how simple the job I find myself running back and forth to the garage several times to retrieve nearly all of the tools I own!!

That guy seems to know his ........( stuff ) 😜 I will disagree with him on one point though and that is with his suggestion to leave the grey tank valve open while connected to the sewer. Unless you create a trap with the sewer hose you risk getting sewer gasses ( and possibly bugs ) from the campground sewer rising up into your grey tank. The problem becomes worse when some other trailer on the same branch dumps their tanks and displaces the gasses in the line. We have a composting toilet so we're only concerned about the grey tank. While at the rally I asked the tank clean guys what to use to keep the tank clean and they handed me a recipe which I've been using. They also said that this recipe helps to lubricate the gate valve. We also are very careful to not get too many food particles in the tank.

Congratulations and welcome to the community! Tom & Doreen #1321