Tom and Doreen

@RivernerdThis is great news! We have a similar problem and will try your suggestion. Thanks, much appreciated! ~Tom~

LOL, looks very off-road capable!

I’ll bet it has more to do with politics and competition agreements than anything. Years ago Toyota was required to use US steel and manufactures to build the beds of their trucks. Guess what part of my truck rusted out. ….The Toyota cab, frame, and power train were still in fine shape when I gave it away with close to 300K miles on it.

I installed the Talon's Garage cat shield (aluminum) as well. Easy install, quick shipping, quality product. I'm somewhat concerned about the ventilation but so far so good.

Low probability but you can try to reset it by powering it off and then on again, press and hold the round button until the display goes off, then turn it back on; otherwise give service a call.

Just did mine yesterday: The issue that I have is that the grease doesn't seem to travel through the entire shackle link to the opposite end on a couple of the shackle links, it just oozes out of the first joint. I also found that one of the zerks behind the hanger on top of the equalizer on one side had never been touched by a grease gun, there was no evidence of any grease on the zerk at all.

Honestly I can't remember, I thought that's what I was told at the factory but I could be wrong.

Beautiful!

The rear hitch is only recommended to be used for weights of less than 100lbs and it's also important to note that the weight should be placed as close to the bumper as possible and not cantilevered outward. Typically this hitch is used for mounting a bicycle rack ( and that's truly what it's intended purpose is ) as is evident by the 1 1/4" acceptor. I would not risk mounting a cargo tray back there others may disagree.

@Rivernerd, you are spot on. My results are similar. I did attempt to contact Optifuse for more detailed specifications but haven't heard back. I suspect that the DCR ( DC resistance ) tolerance specs of the Optifuse are wide enough that many cases work and some don't, either that or there was a bad batch of circuit breakers.

I like your Super Brute jack, it has a light on the front as opposed to ours which has the light on the side ( for some reason, not very useful ).

True, ours appear to be this way.

I believe that Oliver recommends that the Xantrex LBCO (Low Battery Cutoff) to be set to 12.1V for systems such as mine that have the Lithionics battery system. My system suffers from a significant resistance in the high current DC line between the battery and the Xantrex whereby the voltage that the Xantrex sees at it's input terminals is less than the actual voltage seen at the battery terminals which is a problem. The result being that the Xantrex reaches it's LBCO and shuts down prematurely ( because it sees a lower voltage than what's actually at the battery terminals). In a perfect theoretical world there would be zero resistance between the battery and the Xantrex and the voltage at the Xantrex input would be exactly the same as what's measured at the battery terminals, however in the real world there will be some resistance and voltage drop but the system should be designed such that the resistance is as low as possible. To achieve this all the components have to be selected for the lowest resistance possible which includes selecting the proper gauge cables, low resistance circuit breaker, proper grounding, and properly assembled contact surfaces. Given that the Lithionics battery has an internal battery monitor that sets it's "Never Die" voltage (the voltage at which the battery shuts itself down to prevent destructive discharge) at 12.0 V it makes sense that the Xantrex LBCO is set to 12.1V however by doing so it is extremely important to keep the resistance between the battery and the Xantrex as low as possible. It is possible to lower the Xantrex LBCO setting to something lower than the recommended 12.1V since the Xantrex sees a lower voltage than what actually exists at the battery terminals, doing this will allow the Xantrex to operate at higher loads for a longer time , however I do not recommend doing this because it masks the real problem which is an accumulated resistance in the high current DC supply line from the battery to the Xantrex.

I believe a circuit breaker of type JLE-1-41340-250 or equivalent is listed in the LItionics 12V320A manual. @Rivernerd it sounds like you've jumped out the circuit breaker so this may not be the issue in your case. Some high power systems have separate sense inputs which provide independent high impedance sense wires that are brought back to the battery to monitor the battery voltage directly at the source thereby compensating for any voltage drop across the high current supply lines, I'm not sure why Xantrex doesn't do this, admittedly the systems that we have are less demanding comparatively but as such require close attention to all the accumulated resistances, wire gauge, connection resistance, grounding etc.. When I have more time I'll look further at my system. I'll attach the data from the checks that I've made so far. I'll be checking the grounding next.

I won't hijack this post but I just wanted to mention that we have the same issue. The issue being that there is a significant voltage drop across the supply line from the battery to the inverter which includes the Optifuse circuit breaker, the Optifuse being the largest contributor. The Optifuse seems to have a significant 'on' resistance which becomes increasingly significant as the load increases. This causes the voltage that's seen at the inverter input terminals to be less than what's actually measured at the battery terminals by a significant amount. On my system with a 1600W load the voltage seen at my battery terminals is 12.78V whereas the voltage seen at the input to the Xantrex inverter is 12.2, that's a .58V drop! With the Xantrex LBCO setting set to 12.1V any increase in load will cause a LBCO shutdown when in fact the voltage at the battery is well within specification. Curiously Optifuse does not publish an 'on' resistance specification for their part. It could be that the circuit breaker is 'bad' or it could be that the 'on' resistance specification that they manufacture to is too wide, it's hard to know since they don't publish that specification. In contrast the circuit breaker that Lithionics specifies does publish an 'on' resistance specification and it's very good at .000125 ohms; with a 1600w / 126A load that's a drop of only .015V.

I believe that AirTags operate in the low GHZ region and as such fiberglass will offer little attenuation compared to other materials so if the trailer is rolling down the highway the odds are pretty good that someone will be driving by with an Apple device, less so out on the back roads / country. The good news is that a lot of thieves also have Apple products so their own devices may squeal on them! 😁

I believe the detection range to be approximately 30 feet at best. The Setters would have to pass pretty close to an Apple compatible device to be detected.

This is true, AirTags use Bluetooth and NFC to network with compatible Apple devices. The network of compatible Apple devices is massive so interaction is pretty likely in populated areas.

Awesome location, enjoy!! Attached an upright version of your picture.

I believe the reasoning was to not have an ignition source close to the propane tanks.

@Anita JohnstonBest wishes for a speedy recovery!!

What a great site! Is it a Harvest Host site?

Congratulations from Hull #1321! The Olly does track and tow very well. We were first-timers at Buc-ee's as well.

Invest in a backup camera for your trailer, it's worth it, as well as a good brake controller for your tow vehicle. Also tow mirrors with upper and lower sections which make it easier to keep an eye on the wheels when you're making tight turns or backing.

We picked up the tabletop SoloStove Mesa, it'll burn pellets as well as wood. The pellets are pretty easy to bring along. mesa