Tom and Doreen

The Will Rogers museum is excellent and a terrific Harvest Host location as well! We were there last year around this time. Really enjoyed the museum, Will had quite the personality; we learned a lot! We had full use of the grounds after hours while overnighting there.

Likely due to the low battery cutoff parameter / selection on the Xantrex inverter. The inverter will shut off a bit before the batteries go into safe mode which is not a bad thing. The point at which this happens becomes more significant depending upon how much load the Xantrex is supplying due to the voltage drop in the wiring between the batteries and the Xantrex which varies with load. The Xantrex sees a slightly lower voltage than what actually exists at the battery terminals ( and what the internal battery management system sees). For example if you are running your microwave the voltage indicated, (battery voltage ), on the Xantrex display will be lower than what you would read directly across your battery terminals with a voltmeter. The result being that the Xantrex will hit its low battery cutoff and shut off before the battery will go into safe mode.

Addressing brightness and color temperature: I've had issues with the original touch lights flickering and in one case completely failing so last week I replaced all of the touch lights with these, which a few people on this forum had recommended; (as always, thanks folks!). I haven't used them for very long so I can't speak to their longevity but so far I like them for the following reasons: You can select their color temperature when you purchase them They have a mechanical power switch They are dimmable via the switch They have a blue nightlight feature Most importantly: They remember their last mode / state / brightness selected even when the trailer master switch had been turned off for travel. The one feature of the original touch lights that I didn't like was that when I powered the trailer master switch on all the touch lights would come on and I'd have to turn them off individually as desired The hole pattern is close enough to the original lights to make installation easy. I did use screws rather than rivets though In terms of the build quality they leave a bit to be desired, they're similar to the originals although they have a plastic base, probably not so great in terms of heat dissipation so time will tell. I bought a 4-pack and a 2-pack so I have one spare.

That's a smart move, John, I'm glad that you're replacing them! I was assured by the Oliver guys at the last rally that I didn't have to worry about my springs, 2023 build with D52 axles, because there were no problems with newer trailers with D52 axles. Well..... I have a broken spring set, passenger rear, with the remaining sets flattening. Needless to say I'm not a 'happy camper' regarding this. I have replacements from Alcan but haven't had time or decent weather to do the repair as yet.

It's likely those shocks are shot.

If pulling on wires / switches and things temporarily work don’t discount the possibility that fiberglass dust may have gotten into a connection or switch. I’ve had this happen at times. Look for loose or contaminated connections as a possibility.

If your batteries are very low your Xantrex is likely attempting to apply full power to charge your batteries thereby exceeding the power available from your shore power source. It may have worked just fine previously if your batteries had a better state of charge, requiring less demand on your source, but with really low state of charge more demand is required of the source. Decrease or turn off your Zantrex’s max charge current setting or plug into a higher power source. In addition, as others have said, make sure your source is wired correctly and test for faults.

It's possible that you have an air-lock situation. Please see my procedure here: no pump pressure . It's worth a try.

Great episode, Steve!

Additionally you may want to consider replacing your valve stems to the metal variety as opposed to rubber. Rubber ones can fail when sensors are attached.

If you’re referring to the little device that relays the sensor signals I installed mine in the front jack housing, there is power in there and room for the module. I repurposed the switch that controls the jack light so that I can turn the module power on and off.

I believe the temperature sensor is mounted just below the controls.

My ‘23 Tundra is on the recall list but I’m one of the lucky ones ( so far ) with 60k miles, 30k of which pulling our Oliver and no failure as yet. I’ve heard that they’re starting to address the ‘23s in my area soon. I have done frequent oil changes right from the start, hard to know if that made a difference.

The Progressive industries EMS that Oliver supplies does check for an open ground, Error #2 as does the Watchdog; We use both devices.

The museum is awesome. You can boondock there for free, the area is nice. If you want an electric hook-up they charge $40 which includes water but when we were there the hydrants were labeled “non potable”. There is also a dump site there. The Truma service center is close by if you need anything from them.

Like @jd1923 said, take measurements around this circuit breaker, input vs output . These have been known to fail. As John said you should measure 12V on each side with respect to ground.

Someone had recommended this one, High Sierra.

Yes, mine did. It worked pretty well (without the repeater) but there were times when I would loose contact with one tire sensor for a period of time. Once I installed the repeater I’ve had no sensor drop-outs.

If you're looking for a convenient place to hook up your TST repeater there is ample space within the front jack head. +12V power is available and you can utilize the existing power switch currently used for the lamp or add an additional switch if you choose to.

Yes, I have a GearWrench torque wrench, 250 ft//lb that we travel with. We were VERY lucky because we had been on the highway heading out to Yellowstone and had just pulled off to get groceries when the tire stem blew out most likely from the "waggle" affect of the TST sensor. We changed the tire in the parking lot then found a Discount Tire location near where we were and had the stems replaced on all tires including the spare.

1) Using the stabilizer jack is very helpful 2) Change valve stems to the metal type especially if you have TST sensors 3) Invest in an electric impact wrench 4) A locking bottle type jack comes in handy 5) Tire plugs and a compressor can come in handy in a pinch.

Same here. I haven't found anything better than the Calmark cover for all season protection.

We've had two RVLocks fail, on the first one a circuit board failed, the second one had a mechanical failure which we were advised (by the manufacturer) to loosen the internal screws that held a metal plate in place; I don't have a lot of confidence in the second fix but it seems to be working for now. Lot's of people seem to have this lock and are happy with it though.

That is some fine work, John, excellent job!! You'll not only have the confidence in your equipment going forward but you'll also have the knowledge (and tools) to tackle any situation that comes along should something go wrong. Regarding having the parts and tools required at hand I still struggle with that as it seems like no matter how simple the job I find myself running back and forth to the garage several times to retrieve nearly all of the tools I own!!

That guy seems to know his ........( stuff ) 😜 I will disagree with him on one point though and that is with his suggestion to leave the grey tank valve open while connected to the sewer. Unless you create a trap with the sewer hose you risk getting sewer gasses ( and possibly bugs ) from the campground sewer rising up into your grey tank. The problem becomes worse when some other trailer on the same branch dumps their tanks and displaces the gasses in the line. We have a composting toilet so we're only concerned about the grey tank. While at the rally I asked the tank clean guys what to use to keep the tank clean and they handed me a recipe which I've been using. They also said that this recipe helps to lubricate the gate valve. We also are very careful to not get too many food particles in the tank.