Tom and Doreen

I don't know how I missed this thread until now but WOW what a nice build! Awesome job!!

Toyota requires a weight distribution hitch for your Tundra when towing an Oliver, we use the Anderson hitch. As you've mentioned your payload will be limited with the Tundra, visit a CAT scale and check your weights especially the weight on the rear axle. If you have the air bag suspension the truck will trim out nicely when towing the Oliver. The Tundra tows the Oliver very nicely and with the Tow+ mode and the twin turbos you'll get good performance. I've noticed no sway whatsoever with my setup and gas milage is reasonable at 13 mpg typically when towing ( 20mpg when not towing ). We have the composting toilet and are glad to have it. We can go three weeks between changing out the compost which is easy to do. You'll save a lot of water by going with a composting toilet and not have to deal with other peoples messes at the dump stations. Twin beds are the way to go with the Oliver. Water conservation is key when boon docking but you can easily add portable jugs of water to the system if you need to by using the Olivers boon docking configuration. The platinum lithium package is wonderful. The pantry can hold a surprising amount of food. We went with the 30lb propane tanks, they are heavy but came in handy for winter camping.

You may also be able to lower your Xantrex charger current limit parameter to lessen the amount of current being supplied for charging the batteries thus reducing the overall electrical load on the system. This will allow for some usable power for other accessories but will of course cause a longer battery recharge time.

This is likely due to DRM encoding ( Digital Rights Management ) which is to prevent copyright infringement.

We use our stand-alone at times as the Truma dehumidifier feature of the AC sometimes makes the trailer too cold.

According to SureCall registration is not necessary. I had tried to register ours prior to callling SureCall and the call center at AT&T had no clue as to how to register the cell booster. Don’t expect to see a huge boost in signal strength, typically one bar improvement if the phone is very, very close to the antenna.

Re-check that your valves under the curb side bed are in the proper position. There is a valve that if in the wrong position will allow city water to flow into your fresh tank.

@MAX BurnerGreat write-up / procedure, very informative; thanks!

I cannot imagine that Oliver will want to play “middleman” when it comes to managing service appointments, that would be quite a headache to manage. Sadly I believe the response will be to see your local dealer. It’s unfortunate that service at the factory will no longer be an option, we really enjoyed going down to the factory for service; great people.

I don't honestly know how the ram 1500 air system works but on my truck I can select "manual" mode to prevent the air suspension from auto-correcting. The other method is to turn the ignition off thereby deactivating the air pump.

Doug and Jill, congratulations! Don't worry about the towing, you'll hardly know the trailer is back there and the trailer tucks right in behind the truck so if your truck can make it trough a narrow spot your trailer will too.

This was the case with ours, fiberglass dust had gotten into the panel switches; the blue indicator LED would flicker along with the cabin lights in our case.

We have the ProSmart system that Oliver installed ( tank bottom sensor ) and we've had one of the devices fail and the other is difficult to connect to. I did purchase the Truma handheld device as a backup and it works pretty well with the minor limitations listed in previous posts; the device must be placed at a right angle to the tank and multiple readings are required to determine the level at which the propane is found. As I said it works pretty well but it's fairly expensive. The least expensive method, and pretty accurate, is to pour warm water down the side of the tank and then slide your hand down the tank to feel the point at which the tank goes from feeling warm to cold; that's your propane level. I use this method at times and it's works well. I used this method to verify the Truma device's accuracy.

The use of an autotransformer during periods of low line voltage will increase line current which could under certain circumstances stress components such as circuit breakers and cause additional heating of connectors and junctions especially those which may be oxidized. Not much of a problem in modern well maintained campgrounds but could be a problem in lesser capacity, poorly maintained / engineered campgrounds. Another explanation is here.

Disclaimer: I've never had to replace one of these devices but there is interesting information on this site: SeeLevel Tanks Sensor

If you turned the EMS off and you're now charging correctly you may want to investigate why your EMS is preventing your generator from supplying power. Possibly a problem with the EMS itself or there could be truly something wrong with your generator output. By turning your EMS off you will no longer be protected from AC line problems. Is it possible that you could borrow a external power watchdog to test the output of your generator?

It does sound like the generator cannot supply enough power to satisfy the amount of current needed to charge the batteries. The breaker setting is a good place to start as mentioned above. There is also another setting, #24 (charger current) that allows you to adjust the amount of current allowed to charge your batteries. For lithium batteries I believe the setting is 150 amps. You can try changing that value to something lower ( as a test ) to see if that helps, you can try something really low like 10 amps as a test.

We have been using the "second jug" method and it's worked out pretty well for us.

This is a follow-up to my earlier post regarding the E5H error. Truma did respond with the following description for the E5H code: "ionisation voltage recognized during standby mode. Could have been from a solenoid sticking for a moment due to moisture on the sensor, or a voltage spike". In my case I'm sure it was due to moisture as a result of traveling during heavy downpours.

Allen, absolutely satisfied; highly recommend it. When driving into a campsite you can find the most level section from within your tow vehicle and then fine tune when setting up.

I'm posting this in case anyone else encounters this problem: We were traveling back east from Hohenwald in a driving rain storm through GA and upon setting up at the campsite could not get the Truma furnace to heat; the error E 5 H was displayed on the digital display panel. The Truma documentation that I have did not list this particular error code. The furnace had been operating flawlessly prior to the rain storm so I suspected that the problem had to do with moisture preventing the furnace from igniting. I took a hair dryer and blew warm air up into the Truma exhaust vent to dry out any accumulated moisture and that fixed the problem. If anyone has a detailed description of the E 5 H error please post it here as I could not find a description online or in my documentation.

It sounds like a possible mis-wiring during the replacement procedure and also an incorrect interpretation of the meter reading. Could it be possible that the replacement battery was wired in series (rather than in parallel with the other batteries) by mistake and the meter reading was 24.1 volts rather that 241.0 as stated?

Hi John, yes I believe this is what Oliver recommends. Unfortunately I couldn’t find it locally and was leaving on a trip so I ended up using ext/int Gorilla double sided tape. We traveled from CT to PA to VA to SC and back and encountered rain, sleet, and heat along the way with no problems. This may not be the best solution but I don’t believe that the antenna will detach again.

No, it appears to be yellowish. I haven’t tried to remove it as yet, maybe it’s adhesive tape?

My cellular antenna has become unattached from the roof, holding on only by the attached cable. It appears that it was attached by some sort of adhesive only. Does anyone know what type of adhesive I should use to reattach it? Would exterior double sided tape work? What does the factory use?