Tom and Doreen

While camping last week and showing the trailer to one of the many interested people who stopped by I found that the battery compartment door would not unlock / open; the latch would unlock and turn (freely....too freely) but the door would not open. It seems that the lock handle may no longer be connected internally to the lock / unlock mechanism. I don't suppose there is an easy fix for this? Aside from this I've learned an important lesson: Always allow extra time when packing up a campsite because the Oliver draws a lot of interest and people will be stopping by.

Did you find that the x-chocks were causing problems?

Shooting in the dark here but if your microwave is working your inverter is working. Possibly your GFCI outlet is at fault, hard to say. Oliver service will definitely help you, they're some of the best in the industry, try them again.

I have the "simple one" at $10.99 and I was able to connect to the difficult zerks.

Make sure your Truma water heater main switch is set to the 'on' position. This switch is located on the water heater itself and can be set to either the up or down position. The center position is off.

The LED is wired across the fuse and will light when the fuse is blown AND a load is attached to complete the circuit. There must be a load applied and the fuse must be blown for the LED to light. As far as reading a voltage with your meter on the load side of the fuse ( when no actual load exists ) this may cause your meter to falsely read a voltage because your digital meter is completing the circuit between the LED and ground. Because your digital meter has high impedance inputs the LED may not actually light but it is completing the circuit between the LED and ground, thereby drawing a small current, and as such will indicate a voltage. You can think of your meter as a very high value resistor in this application.

I can certainly understand Oliver's take on this. It’s incredibly difficult to troubleshoot owners problems over the phone / text / email without actually getting your own eyes and hands on the issue, this takes considerable time all of which is uncompensated. In addition customers may be pressed for time, unable to make repairs, or unable to make the trek in some cases thousands of miles to get service at the factory. Oliver is trying to address both of these issues. The issue that I have is that there aren’t any dealerships in my area that I would trust to work on our Olly so if something major happens I’ll make the trip, if possible, to the factory. This would be a good opportunity for some young entrepreneurs with skills and a van to form a close relationship with Oliver, get trained, vetted, and certified, and head out on the road.

Two enthusiastic thumbs up for Earth Roamer👍👍 and also it's little cousin Truckhouse.

I think that we have the same dog! We've had the same experience in that people with other dogs assume that it's ok to let their dog approach without asking. It's funny that you mention the "find it" game; We have a ritual whereby while she's eating her dinner we hide her after-dinner snack somewhere in the house. When she's finished we shout "FIND IT" and off she goes. She quickly tracks it down and upon doing so we throw up our arms and exclaim "she saw it with her dog nose!!" 😁 while she proudly does a victory lap around the house.

Exceptional work!!

That sounds exactly like our dog, a rescue as well; Very good with people but does not like other dogs. Luckily so far she's been very well behaved when camping for some reason even when we've stayed at a Harvest Host farm with lots of animals. We do use a remote controlled training collar with her which we can set to make a noise, vibration, or tingle at the press of a button if need be. So far we've only had to use the noise and a couple of times a vibration to change her behavior. We are careful not to let other dogs get to close to her though, just in case. Some dogs she's ok with, others not; it's hard to know.

On the 2023 Tundra, and likely the 2022, the right side gauges are configurable. The transmission temperature is one of the items that is selectable. I believe that there are actually two transmission temperature sensors but I believe that only one of them is readable even with my ScanGuage.

Approximately how long does it take for the service to be done?

Hoping for an Oliver toy-hauler! 😉

This is what I measured back in April. "Panel indicated" is as stated, measurements recorded from the panel. "At terminals" were values recorded with a Fluke 8062A multimeter (calibrated) with respect to the common (-) buss bar except in the case of the actual battery voltage which was measured directly across the battery terminals at the battery ( for simplicity which does not include any drop across the shunt ). I haven't measured the drop across each segment of the high current DC line but the segment from the (+) terminal of the DC input to the Xantrex to the input of the circuit breaker accounts for approximately .27V with the remaining .24V being dropped across the segments preceding the circuit breaker. I don't know the specs for the shunt but it's probably not unreasonable to expect a .1V drop here given the load. I did speak with an engineer at Optifuse concerning the DCR ( DC resistance under load ) of the circuit breaker since their spec sheet did not disclose this information and he stated that he would expect those values to be in the "low milliOhms if not microOhms" region which would be insignificant. So I believe that it all comes down to the basics; is the cable quality, length, and gauge appropriately rated for the max load; is the surface area and quality of the crimps and terminals adequate, have the number of connections / crimps in the system been minimized ? Could be a 'bad circuit breaker' but given the fact that others are having the same problem, probably not.

This should be considered a "work-around" rather than a "fix" and Oliver should come up with a permanent solution, which I'm sure they will. In my particular case, running a 1.5kW load, the voltage indicated by the Xantrex display was .5V lower than what was measured at that battery. This doesn't seem like much but it does cause a premature and unnecessary shutdown of the Xantrex, as many have experienced, since the Xantrex interprets the battery voltage being much lower than it actually is. Changing the LBCO to a lower value to compensate works however it doesn't change the fact that there is still a .5V drop across the wiring and associated circuit breaker. That doesn't sound like a big deal but what it equates to, in my case, is that running a 1.5kW load results in 60W ( conservatively ) being dissipated by the wiring on the DC input side of the Xantrex. That's power that's not being applied to the load and results in unnecessary heating of the wiring (although small). Ideally there would be no voltage drop between the battery and the Xantrex, in reality there will be some, nothings perfect, but .5V is excessive. Having said all that the "work-around" will work, as I've been using that method for a while with good results, and my heavy electrical loads are usually temporary.

Best wishes, John, enjoy your future adventures!! Thank you for all you've done for this forum and we look forward to hearing from you again!

@MAX BurnerNice setup! Do you have the automatic bed step on your Tundra and if so do the Rock Tamers interfere with it? Any issues with the sensors?

The Mini-Rally and a visit to the Maine Botanical Gardens just down the road.

@jd1923The Optifuse 300A/48VDC circuit breaker should remove all DC power to the Xantrex. The 60A/42V circuit breaker controls the 12V peripheral systems in the coach; lights, radio, etc..

@RustyMDThat’s terrific , I’m glad that you found the problem!

Just guessing here but is your flue blocked or is the fan not operating / jammed? If you have the antifreeze kit is the yellow flue plate removed?

True, this has been my work-around. When I have more time I’ll have to look into this further , if not I’ll have Oliver fix it this winter.

Yes and unfortunately we have the same issue. We have a voltage difference of between .4V - .5V between the actual battery voltage and what the Xantrex reads so there is a voltage drop across the wiring and the circuit breaker. When the batteries are at full charge it’s not too bad but when the batteries begin to discharge we come close to the Xantrex cut off point because the voltage that the Xantrex sees is significantly less than what the actual battery voltage is.

The sensor does use an O-ring and they supply some spares in the kit. Good idea to add silicone, I'll do that next time.