Rolind

So I think the Aventa is designed to drain condensate onto the roof unless the option condensate drain kit is installed, which is on my trailer. I regret I didn’t take any pics when I had my cover off but the picture from the manual may help. You have been in your unit so hopefully you can decipher the image. The upper image is looking down on the unit and there are two small holes marked 1 and 2. The oval hole (1)is the overflow and the round hole (2) is the opening to the condensate drain tube if installed. The lower image is looking at the unit from below and cannot be seen with the Aventa installed as the lower surface is only an inch or so above trailer shell. The short quarter circle track leading from (1) on the lower image, is the track of the optional drain tubing. I agree that the condensate pan is very shallow and it is not how I would have designed the system. Because the pan is shallow and the ridge between the round condensate drain hole and the oblong overflow is only a few millimeters, the drainage is very sensitive to leveling of the trailer. I also think that level for my Aventa and level for my trailer are slightly different, just for added complexity. Despite my pledge not to, I suspect I will probably take another run at getting my port side drain unobstructed. On the other hand, I am delighted that this is my only complaint regarding my Oliver. What a fantastic trailer.

Thanks so much for the write up. It taught me a lot. I also learned I need to upgrade my annual inspection process.

Unfortunately not. They were parked at the beach campground and I was hoping they were going to stay at the campground, but they never pulled in.

I think that @Patriot comments in the above mentioned link are most appropriate. The condensate lines cannot be kinked. It is pretty amazing that the lip in the condensate tray between the drain proper and the overflow is only a few millimeters at best. But having said this, if both condensate lines are draining well no water should drain down the side of the trailer or into the trailer regardless of the leveling of the trailer. I will say that I was afraid to really blast the condensate lines with high pressure from below, to prevent separating the connection in the lines I mentioned previously. I had already sealed up the unit before I applied the compressor to the drains under the trailer.

Based on my recent Truma dissection and research, I am suspicious that your condensate lines are at fault. The Truma has a pan under the evaporator to collect condensate. The pan has a drain and overflow on street and curbside. It is designed so that if the condensate lines become occluded, the condensate will pass through the overflow and onto the outside of the trailer. If both the condensate drain lines and the overflow are occluded, I understand that the condensate can drain into the trailer. Furthermore about a foot from the evaporator pan, there is a connection where the condensate line from the pan connects to the condensate line in the trailer. Again, based on my understanding, if this connection fails, water can then drain from the unit into the trailer. I hope this is clear and helps. it isn’t too difficult to investigate these issues further but it does involve an hour on the roof of the trailer, a T25 and T30 driver and some sealant to reseal the shroud cover screws after reinstallation.

Well it finally happened. After a year of cross crossing the country, my wife pointed out this Oliver from Pennsylvania today at Tawas Point State Park. Haven’t met the owners yet.

@Ronbrink is spot on. Here a pic of my outlet.

The closest we have have come to an Oliver in the last year is meeting a couple last week in Holland, Michigan several days ago who are from Kansas and own an Oliver but flew to Holland and left their Ollie behind. Now in central Michigan and not an Oliver to be seen. Heading to Lake Huron side in a day. Maybe we will get lucky there!

So despite my pledge to suppress my OCD tendencies, I spent some more time with my condensate hoses today. The hose is not kinked behind the basement wall and I cannot see an obvious kink when I examine the hose under the evaporator. There is very limited access to the condensate hoses from the roof. At this point, I’m going to really quit and live with condensate on the side of the trailer. If I were to pursue things further, I think the next step would be to lift the ac unit off the roof and gain better access to the drain tubes. This is more than I am willing to do.

Thanks for the input. Your post got me thinking and today I’m going to check behind the wall in the basement and see if I can see any kinks. Btw are you going on the Tremor forum truck plant tour in August? It would be great to meet you.

Not really. You need to peel the sealant off the eight screw heads. I assume it was dicor. Once those are off the shroud can be lifted off. There are two more screws holding the evaporator cover on. Once those are removed the evaporator cover can be removed. All screws are T25s To be honest once you are in there, there isn’t much to see. One thing I did learn is that the street side drain at the evaporator connects to the curbside drain under the back of the trailer and same with the other side. I had always assumed, street side evaporator drained to the under the trailer street side drain. I also learned my unit is slightly off level with street side being lower when the trailer is level. Of course that is the drain tube that is occluded. be sure to seal up the shroud screws when you put it all back together.

Has anyone with the truma had any luck getting the condensate to consistently drain through the drain tube and not down the side of the trailer? It has always been intermittent for me and lately has stopped altogether. Yesterday I took the evaporator cover off and gently blew air up the drainage tubes. The curbside easily accepted air from below but wouldn’t drain water from above. The street side was occluded from below and won’t accept any air, but drained freely from above. I thought I would ask before I just set aside my OCD and accepted condensate drainage on the side of the trailer. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

We are also big fans of the Gorilla Hose. We carry a short rigid hose for drawing water from an external container https://a.co/d/3D14tZS

Our Honda eu2200 will not run our Truma air at sea level. The overload on the generator trips when the compressor kicks on. As I understand the xantrex 3000 freedom pro, it will prioritize sending ac power to the ac and send less to the charger for instance if the ac input is not great enough to support both (load share). But the Xantrex will not supplement ac loads with battery power as a Victron Multiplus will. I would love to be wrong about this but I think the only way my generator will run our ac is if a soft start is installed.

We use this adapter and an hdmi cable. We plug into the furrion head unit. I usually have to play around with the settings on the head unit and the tv to make it work. Apple TV streaming service never works this way. The process is cumbersome, but we rarely watch tv in our trailer. I thought about using an Apple TV device to airplay to the tv, but I think both the phone and the Apple TV would need to be on the same WiFi to work and we often don’t have WiFi when camping. https://a.co/d/4M4fmmB

I can’t speak to the breaker tripping, but we had a repeated issue with error 20 that was resolved with firmware updates for the xantrex. I seem to remember there were three updates, one for the inverter, one for the remote and one for communications. There are kind of a pain with multiple steps and very specific folder names but otherwise easy. Good luck. We have no had any breaker tripping issues.

I would talk to the office at the KOA in the morning. I know at the Charleston KOA has a number to call if you are streaming on their WiFi. No extra charge involved, just a few extra steps.

Have you tried this version out. I think previous models had mixed reviews.

Unfortunately, this is normal for the Truma units and any other rv ac unit where the blower runs continuously as the compressor cycles on and off. This is particularly a problem when the ambient humidity is high and the outside temp is close to the temp the ac is set to. These conditions result in short compressor run times with long blower run times wo the compressor running. You can use the dehumidify setting on the Truma, accessed only with the remove control. This setting runs the compressor continuously and does a great job decreasing humidity at the cost of making the trailer very cold. We usually just set the temp to much lower than we normally would to compensate for the increase humidity in the trailer, ie 65º at night. You can also purchase a small counter top dehumidifier as recently suggested in this great thread.

I think your process is great. I usually don’t turn off the main ac breaker prior to starting the generator, but maybe it is best to do so. Eco mode is also fine if you are not running the air conditioning. Lastly, if you should lose or misplace your neutral grounding plug, you can still use the generator to power the trailer if you switch the ems to bypass mode. I usually use the grounding plug but have misplaced mine on occasion. I also change the xantrex breaker rating to 15 amps. I remember that the xantrex will trip the overload on the generator if the batteries are significantly discharged and the breaker rating is set higher. We have the larger lithium bank, not sure if the smaller bank would also trip the overload.

This is a great hose. I roll up ours into a milk crate and still plenty of room for the 30 amp power cord and a ridgid charger and drill. Recommend it with no reservations. I got mine at Home Depot or maybe Lowe’s.

I’m not sure I understand your current status correctly, but if you have a 300Ah battery with 46% charge, you needed 162 Ah till full charge. Depending on weather and sun angle, and assuming you have a PWM charge controller, you probably on got 15Ah of charge for 5 hrs, and significantly less for the rest of the day. Maybe 7Ah for 7 hrs. So yield for today would be 124 Ah for a current battery deficit of 38Ah and SOC of 88%. This is not too far from your reading of 70% SOC . I would give the system another sunny day or two to catch up and see where things settle. I think you are in great shape overall. I am assuming you have the 300 Ah epoch battery, if you have the 460 Ah battery you are probably even closer to 70% SOC. Lastly, I am not familiar with epochs BMS, but on our lithionics, sometimes the SOC reading has drifted and is not correct and doesn’t reset until voltage reaches full charge. Hope this helps.

I have used the dehumidify function on our Truma. I believe it works by simply running the compressor constantly until you turn off the dehumidify setting. It does a great job lowering the humidity, but also makes the Oliver frosty cold pretty quickly. It would not be a good option when not running on shore power and I rarely use this function since it makes the Oliver so cold and only lowers the humidity while the dehumidify function is running.

This is what I use. I think I bought them at Home Depot or Lowe’s.

Welcome from a nearby neighbor, (Louisville). I’m sure you will love your Oliver! We sure do.