Rolind

Thanks to @Ollie-Haus and @Patriot for good advice on the dehumidifier. It arrived at the same time as the three days of tropical rain in Charleston. I was really a game changer, so much more comfortable inside the trailer.

1390 and Oliphino, inspired by one of our favorite beers Elephino from Red Rock Brewing in SLC.

We also run the TST and have been very happy with it. It occasionally alarms with the sensor saying one of the tires is at over 200F. A Quick Look in the side view mirrors confirms this is not correct. I think this occurs because of interference from our cell phones, chargers or other electronics in the cab. We plug our repeater into the 12 cigarette style outlet about the cooktop.

Ours has always made the same noise, I assume it is a cooling fan. It runs continuously when charging partial depleted batteries until full charge and occasionally for brief periods of time when fully charged. I also notice an occasional electrical hum when the cooling fan isn’t running. I have never explored trying to decrease the sound associated with the fan. You might try decreasing the breaker rating in the xantrex app and see if it makes a difference if the battery charges more slowly.

IMO it’s kinda like spending all day in the kitchen baking with out of date flour. You sure would hate to get all that work done only to discover it was bad!

That is a great way to do things, as an avid mountain biker I always cringe when I see bikes strapped to the front of some TV, ripping down the interstate at 75MPH behind a gravel truck. Lol. The only thing worse is seeing bikes flop around on the back of a 30’ trailer like a fish on the end of a line out of water.

I have always been afraid to mount my bikes on the front of the TV. Too many bugs and other road hazards. I have been very happy carrying my bikes on a low bed rack mounted above my Retrax bed cover. The front of the rack has two rocky mounts for the thru axles, the rear trays are from Voodoo. I made the bed rack with components from various venders. I have to remove the front wheels for travel, but have full bed capacity except for the bed consumed by the Retrax roll box.

Thanks @Galway Girl I am assembling the materials for a fix next week!

Thanks @Galway Girl I am assembling the materials for a fix next week!

Awesome and thanks. I’ll get busy?

Sorry to reanimate an old thread, but my large support block fell off the propane cover on our last trip and by some miracle was balanced on one of the cross members on the bottom of the propane enclosure. I’m planning steps to reattach it and had some questions for those who have done this before. It seems that everyone has used epoxy but has anyone used a methyl methacrylate adhesive instead? It seems as if surface prep doesn’t need to be as meticulous if MMA is used instead of epoxy. For those that used epoxy, how rigorous does the surface prep need to be? I plan on removing all the old adhesive, lightly sanding both surfaces and then washing with water and the isopropyl alcohol. Would this surface prep suffice for epoxy use? Thanks in advance for the help and safe travels.

I had the same issue occur but was luckily able to wiggle the switch out wo removing the panel. I also happened to the bathroom light switch. I was initially confused because the pump would only turn on with the switch outside the bathroom near the thermostat.

So I think the Aventa is designed to drain condensate onto the roof unless the option condensate drain kit is installed, which is on my trailer. I regret I didn’t take any pics when I had my cover off but the picture from the manual may help. You have been in your unit so hopefully you can decipher the image. The upper image is looking down on the unit and there are two small holes marked 1 and 2. The oval hole (1)is the overflow and the round hole (2) is the opening to the condensate drain tube if installed. The lower image is looking at the unit from below and cannot be seen with the Aventa installed as the lower surface is only an inch or so above trailer shell. The short quarter circle track leading from (1) on the lower image, is the track of the optional drain tubing. I agree that the condensate pan is very shallow and it is not how I would have designed the system. Because the pan is shallow and the ridge between the round condensate drain hole and the oblong overflow is only a few millimeters, the drainage is very sensitive to leveling of the trailer. I also think that level for my Aventa and level for my trailer are slightly different, just for added complexity. Despite my pledge not to, I suspect I will probably take another run at getting my port side drain unobstructed. On the other hand, I am delighted that this is my only complaint regarding my Oliver. What a fantastic trailer.

Thanks so much for the write up. It taught me a lot. I also learned I need to upgrade my annual inspection process.

Unfortunately not. They were parked at the beach campground and I was hoping they were going to stay at the campground, but they never pulled in.

I think that @Patriot comments in the above mentioned link are most appropriate. The condensate lines cannot be kinked. It is pretty amazing that the lip in the condensate tray between the drain proper and the overflow is only a few millimeters at best. But having said this, if both condensate lines are draining well no water should drain down the side of the trailer or into the trailer regardless of the leveling of the trailer. I will say that I was afraid to really blast the condensate lines with high pressure from below, to prevent separating the connection in the lines I mentioned previously. I had already sealed up the unit before I applied the compressor to the drains under the trailer.

Based on my recent Truma dissection and research, I am suspicious that your condensate lines are at fault. The Truma has a pan under the evaporator to collect condensate. The pan has a drain and overflow on street and curbside. It is designed so that if the condensate lines become occluded, the condensate will pass through the overflow and onto the outside of the trailer. If both the condensate drain lines and the overflow are occluded, I understand that the condensate can drain into the trailer. Furthermore about a foot from the evaporator pan, there is a connection where the condensate line from the pan connects to the condensate line in the trailer. Again, based on my understanding, if this connection fails, water can then drain from the unit into the trailer. I hope this is clear and helps. it isn’t too difficult to investigate these issues further but it does involve an hour on the roof of the trailer, a T25 and T30 driver and some sealant to reseal the shroud cover screws after reinstallation.

Well it finally happened. After a year of cross crossing the country, my wife pointed out this Oliver from Pennsylvania today at Tawas Point State Park. Haven’t met the owners yet.

@Ronbrink is spot on. Here a pic of my outlet.

The closest we have have come to an Oliver in the last year is meeting a couple last week in Holland, Michigan several days ago who are from Kansas and own an Oliver but flew to Holland and left their Ollie behind. Now in central Michigan and not an Oliver to be seen. Heading to Lake Huron side in a day. Maybe we will get lucky there!

So despite my pledge to suppress my OCD tendencies, I spent some more time with my condensate hoses today. The hose is not kinked behind the basement wall and I cannot see an obvious kink when I examine the hose under the evaporator. There is very limited access to the condensate hoses from the roof. At this point, I’m going to really quit and live with condensate on the side of the trailer. If I were to pursue things further, I think the next step would be to lift the ac unit off the roof and gain better access to the drain tubes. This is more than I am willing to do.

Thanks for the input. Your post got me thinking and today I’m going to check behind the wall in the basement and see if I can see any kinks. Btw are you going on the Tremor forum truck plant tour in August? It would be great to meet you.

Not really. You need to peel the sealant off the eight screw heads. I assume it was dicor. Once those are off the shroud can be lifted off. There are two more screws holding the evaporator cover on. Once those are removed the evaporator cover can be removed. All screws are T25s To be honest once you are in there, there isn’t much to see. One thing I did learn is that the street side drain at the evaporator connects to the curbside drain under the back of the trailer and same with the other side. I had always assumed, street side evaporator drained to the under the trailer street side drain. I also learned my unit is slightly off level with street side being lower when the trailer is level. Of course that is the drain tube that is occluded. be sure to seal up the shroud screws when you put it all back together.

Has anyone with the truma had any luck getting the condensate to consistently drain through the drain tube and not down the side of the trailer? It has always been intermittent for me and lately has stopped altogether. Yesterday I took the evaporator cover off and gently blew air up the drainage tubes. The curbside easily accepted air from below but wouldn’t drain water from above. The street side was occluded from below and won’t accept any air, but drained freely from above. I thought I would ask before I just set aside my OCD and accepted condensate drainage on the side of the trailer. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

We are also big fans of the Gorilla Hose. We carry a short rigid hose for drawing water from an external container https://a.co/d/3D14tZS