Rolind

The battery heaters would absolutely drain the batteries especially if the solar switch was turned off, or if there was a prolonged cold spell of cloudy weather. if you should take my advice on how to restart the batteries and charging, I would recommend turning the batteries on before the solar panel switch. I seem to remember that having solar on wo a connection to functioning batteries may damage the solar charge controller. i alway turn my solar switch to off when I turn off the batteries for long term storage to prevent this from happening.

I’m pretty sure the round Victron display is connected to a shunt. I don’t think it can function wo a shunt. I included a pic of mine with the SOC displayed. I almost never use the display and use the Victron connect app instead. I will say that I have never searched and actually laid eyes on the shunt but the compiled manufacturers owners manual for my trailer indicated a Victron BMV 712 shunt and display are on board.

I agree that I think your batteries have shut off due to being discharged to 10%. This is not a problem and the batteries have not been damaged. The shutoff feature is designed to protect the batteries in the event they are discharged to a low level. If you turn the batteries and discharge them completely they could be damaged, so first job is to get at least some charge in them I think a good place to start would be to install the Victron Connect app, the lithionics app, and the xantrex app on your phone. I would then pull your trailer into a sunny location on a sunny day and turn on both batteries by pressing the the power button on both batteries until it turns blue. Then make sure your xantrex inverter is not turned on at the wall panel, ie the button should not be depressed. Now, using the Victron app or the wall mounted indicator, make sure there is current flowing into the batteries. If the answer is no, check the large red and white switch in the overhead cabinet above the street side bed and make sure it is on. Under good sunny conditions I would expect between 5-20 amps to be flowing into the batteries, depending on the angle of the sun. Now that you have some solar charging occurring, I would make sure that all the apps you installed above are communicating with your batteries, xantrex inverter and the Victron shunt. Make sure you understand what they are telling you. Now would be a good time to try the generator. You can use one or two generators. For use of two, you will need to connect the generators together using the parallel cord from Honda. If you use only one generator you will need to decrease the breaker rating in the xantrex to 15-20 amps as I mentioned above. The batteries will charge faster using two generators and a higher breaker rating. The overload light I mentioned is on the front of the generator and is red on my eu2200. You should now be able to monitor charging by watching how many amps are flowing into the batteries using either the lithionics app or the Victron app and the battery state of charge using the lithionics app. The Victron state of charge percent may be incorrect until the batteries reach 100% State Of Charge, SOC. I know this seems like a lot, but once you are familiar with how things work, it is really pretty simple. i would make an afternoon of this project with a beer some music and enjoying your awesome new trailer. Last, there are a look of great video online explaining how trailer electrical systems work. good luck and I hope this helps.

Below is a screen shot from my xantrex app with the breaker rating circled in red.

I’m headed in a different direction and wonder if the breaker setting on I assume your xantrex converter/inverter may be set too high for your generator. The factory setting for breaker rating on our xantrex is 25A, but this is too high for our Honda eu2200 generator. I usually set my breaker rating to 20A or less if charging from the generator. If I try to run the generator with the breaker rating at 25 A, you can hear a change in the sound of the generator as it overloads and stops charging and the overload red light on the generator will light up.

We use about 50Ah in 24 hrs with the fridge alone. I’m not sure of the tv draw, but our inverter consumes about 3Ah just by being on with no ac load. As you consider batteries for replacement, take a look at the Epoch 460Ah lithium batteries. They are relatively inexpensive for their size and are getting great reviews.

Did you use a neutral grounding plug on your generator? Our EMS will usually but not always immediately block the generator from powering the trailer or charging the batteries. Not sure if your trailer has a built in EMS or not. If you provide a bit more info, such as hull number, battery type, solar present or not, the forum members might be able to give you more specific help. I hope you get this issue resolve quickly and it is something simple.

Mine usually reads zero at empty after draining the tank with the low point drain under the curbside bed. The pump starts sucking air at about 13%. I’m not sure I could reach zero with the pump, never tried. My black reads zero easily, but I need to lift my nose at the dump station to get my gray to read zero at level.

When we did our initial walkthrough of our new Oliver, the Oliver service rep strongly suggested we keep short segments of pool noodle between the back of the retracted tv and the lower surface of the attic to prevent the fiberglass from fatiguing around the tv mounting bracket. Even ratting around Moab, we have never had the TV deploy while traveling.

Seeing the ad the first time was fun because we are used to seeing trucks in ads pulling Airstreams. When the trailer pulled into view we realized it was an Oliver and an Oliver ad not a truck ad. The voice over seemed like a familiar voice also.

For the last two nights, while streaming Peacock thru my Apple TV, an Oliver Travel Trailer has played. It is a short, maybe 15 seconds and very well done. It was very fun to see, I was wondering if anyone else has seen the ad. Maybe my APPLE TV is targeting me based on my browsing history, especially my time on Oliver Owners Forum. I also wonder if the APPLE TV is targeting me because half of the ads on peacock are in Spanish and I have been using Duolingo to learn Spanish for the last year?

I’ve have tried to extend our “season” to thanksgiving by not winterizing and running the Truma for heat. I quickly found that my anxiety was more expensive than the time and materials it took to winterize. The other issue is the weather and temps you will encounter when you pull out for your late Dec trip.

We just returned from CGI detailing in Murfreesboro. I was amazed by how fantastic our Oliver looked after their detailing and ceramic coat application. The trailer is absolutely stunning. The guys were fantastic, did great work and were fun to talk to on drop off and pickup. We would strongly recommend them for their excellent work. Our trailer is only 18 months old and the improvement in its shine is awesome.

I second the partially open valve. We did that once too!

One more moab pic. Kane Creek Road. Last full moon.

Our fuse is under the street side bed by the inverter. It is a small black inline fuse holder.

As an aside, I think on a super duty, if adaptive cruise and engine brake are both engaged, the adaptive cruise will apply TV brakes in addition to engine braking. I usually don’t use adaptive cruise on big declines for this reason. I want to have a better idea of how much the TV brakes are applied. Any thoughts?

I have found that the built in battery heaters in my lithionic batteries will also a cause a difference between SOC readings on my Victron Shunt and my Lithionics app. Power use for the internal battery heaters does not register on the Victron. Not sure if it has been cold enough at your location to trigger the heaters.

I recently updated my firmware on my xantrex 3000 because I was have issues with frequent error 20 messages. One thing I found interesting is that the xantrex instructions do not recommend updating firmware unless you are having issues. I used instructions from both the Oliver knowledge base and the xantrex page to download all three firmwares and update.

In our experience ethanol fumes whether spilled near the sensor or dissipated by respiration after a few drinks is enough to trigger the CO alarm if the trailer is closed up. I’m sure the ethanol in the antifreeze would also be enough to trigger the alarm.

Thanks so much for the heads up. Looks like a great winter project for my list.

In my opinion, if you are going to frequently be running ac wo shore power , the best solution would be a Generator like the Honda EU 2200 and a Truma installed soft start on your ac unit. The eu2200 is at my limit of lifting comfort. I run mine on gas, but propane would likely work as well. I don’t have a soft start on my Truma yet, but it seems like a reasonably priced option as long as the mobile tech cost to install it is not too prohibitive. I have been holding off on the soft start hoping a DIY option becomes available in the future.

We had a similar but less severe issue. When I look closely at your picture, I notice a small crack in the metal trim around the microwave in the corner. We developed similar cracks in all four corners after a trip to Fruita on I70 from Louisville. We were still under warranty and Oliver sent us a new trim piece along with some metal perforated hanger strap. They recommended that I attach a piece of the strap to a preexisting screw on the back of the microwave and then to the platform the microwave is on. While I was working on the micro/convection oven, I noticed that the center of the metal foot it stands on had partially collapsed in the center. I reinforced this with some screws and lock washers that reinforce this area. We haven’t had an issue since however I did tighten up the hanger tape and and move the lower end of the longest piece to its own attachment site to the left since this picture was taken. The First three images have the microwave on its side. The last two were take through the vent on the outside of the trailer above the fridge and below the microwave/convection oven. One other thought, I was unsure how hot the outside of the oven gets when using convection and therefore tried to steer clear of blocking airflow or putting anything combustible close the oven. Hope this helps.

I think I have finally banished the error 20 code from my Xantrex remote. In the past I thought it was from poor quality shore power and I thought I had updated the firmware but I again got an error 20 code on my xantrex remote. I was wrong on both counts. I finally went all in, and updated the firmware on the inverter/charger, the remote and the communications firmware. I didn’t get an error 20 code on my most recent trip. In case it helps, I downloaded the firmware on a PC not an apple. My previous attempts with downloading the firmware to an apple did not successfully update the firmware. I also downloaded and updated each of the three firmwares to the usb drive separately, deleting each one after each was installed. Attempting to download and install all of them together didn’t work for me. To answer your question above, I have never decreased the charge current directly, but have decreased the breaker rating from 25 to 20 or 15 amps depending on my shore power source. This indirectly lowers the charge current.

If fly fishing is your thing, the green above the dam is amazing trout water, browns, rainbows and cuts. I usually drive to little hole and walk upstream or park below the dam and walk down stream. More cuts closer to the dam. Plenty of long parking spots at both since there is a boat ramp at both sites. Dripping springs is a fun little campground but I don’t know if they have water or a dump station.