jd1923
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Posts posted by jd1923
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Wow pretty, and you already have it nicely outfitted on day 1! 😂
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6 hours ago, Ronbrink said:
My power draw is <1400W, perhaps the difference being in the 11,000 vs 13,500 BTU units. I too had my Xantrex 2000 shut down once when the batteries, under load, dropped near 12V...
It is very likely your model being less BTUs and a newer perhaps more efficient design. Our Oliver is a 2016 and the Penguin could be a 2015 model, nine years old. Mine started at about 1400W for a few minutes. It also had an easy-start install in 2018 at OTT. When it got to 1800W, 5 min and about 90 outside, I did see an error code a couple times at 12V, and our Xantrex is also older, and it only has the small LCD readout on the inverter, remote is the ON/OFF toggle only.
Looking forward reading re your Atmos install and @rideadeuce Mike has a mid-July date for installation at the dealer. We'll also read soon of @Geronimo John adding final touches on his Houghton install. I'm going to wait out the summer re an A/C decision, in fact it could be as late as next spring. Even after installation of an efficient A/C system, we need LiFePO4 to make running on inverter a reality. Wonder if an inverter pulls more amps with LA vs. LI batteries? Maybe that's some of the wattage difference too.
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2 hours ago, bugeyedriver said:
Nice. Placing the vents at the upper portion of the space makes sense, after all, hot air rises. Did you consider a switch activated 12 volt miniature fan to increase cooling when using the air fryer?
I had thought about your suggestion and thank you. Thought it would be difficult to implement. You'd need a fan and encased wiring to resist temps 400+ degrees, plus the power source. There will be air flow in front and both rear corners. Depending on air movement in the cabin, one side will take over with a chimney effect, pulling from the other sides. That and this insulation designed for ovens and kilns should do it. I need to wrap up a few details and will report back later after a good test. 😂
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I was putting off the work of insulating the opening. I had never done such a task or worked with ceramic insulation before. Turns out this material worked well: Amazon.com: CeraTex 3180 Blanket with Aluminum Foil Facing, 8 LB Density, 1/2" x 24" x 60" (5'), 2300°F High Temperature Insulation for Kiln Stove Furnace Glass Fusing Pizza Oven : Arts, Crafts & Sewing
After cutting the main section, top and rear in one piece, I used 3M spray adhesive to get it started and it worked better than I had expected. I finished with a power staple gun with 3/8" staples to secure it. I was afraid that the staple gun would pierce the foil layer of the insulation, so at first I used some electrical tape to help and then realized it was unnecessary (red tape at bottom).
Then I cut the two side pieces which had a curved rear, following the curve of the Oliver upper shell. I placed these in position and used a Sharpie to mark the vent holes and cut these out with scissors. Glued and stapled the left side and went without glue on the RH side, since the thermostat cable is behind that one and I may need to service that with an A/C upgrade. Really happy in how it turned out, which is often the case after days of contemplation!
I have one trim piece to fabricate which will hide the 2x4s below the oven and then remount the bezel from the original microwave, and she's done! Last step and pics tomorrow.
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Next step was to drill the vents. I went 1/4" or so down from the ceiling of the opening and as far back as possible. One the left side, you could only go so far back because the entry door area is further in for the flat door frame vs. the other curved walls. Both sides took careful measuring.
Used a 2 3/4" hole saw from the inside first for positioning. After making the center mark, I drilled through with a 1/4" drill. This way I could place the hole saw mandrel into the hole and make sure the hole saw was in the best position. I used the vent on the outside, to also see that the larger outside vent surface had adequate room. Here are the results.
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First step was to center the Emeril Air fryer. It needed to be raised about 3/4" or more, so I set it on two 2x4s with cutouts, hole drilled to hold the legs. This gave me the lift I need and a way to secure the oven. When I got the mount ready, I merely used some wood glue below and was able to then move the oven a little to get it exactly square. The next day after the glue had set, I added a couple wood screws to secure (the 2x4 in the rear was part of the original microwave installation).
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Thanks again @bugeyedriver and @SeaDawg. I cut vents today and got most of the upgrade finished! I went with these which I had already purchased for my heat duct project to vent the closet and basement areas: 3 Inch Vent Cover, Hon&Guan 3 Soffit Vents Exterior Round Soffit Vents with Built-in a Fly Screen for Bathroom Office Home-2PCS - Amazon.com
There were metal versions, but I thought metal would conduct heat and maybe scar the external fiberglass.
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On 6/17/2024 at 12:21 PM, jd1923 said:
At first look, it appears the 460AH is too wide to fit two in the bay. Specs listed as such on their webpage: length 20.55" width: 9.45" height: 8.60". Then open the User's Manual and you will see the width and height numbers reversed (which makes more sense). I just emailed Epoch to please clarify. If the specs in the manual are correct, I see two 12460ES LiFePO4 batteries in our future sitting side-by-side in the battery bay, tray removed with 3/4" to spare!
First time I "quoted" my own post! It took 11 days to get an answer...
I sent an inquiry through Epoch's Contact Us page and received no answer. I emailed support@epochbatteries.com with the same question and nothing... Three days later I called their support phone number and got a young guy on the phone. He did not know, but said they had one in the shop, and he could measure. After looking 5 minutes for a tape measure without success, he said he would find one and call me back soon. He never did.
The article re LI batteries suggested buying from an American (Las Vegas, NV) reseller for US support. I emailed them today and they replied, same day and corrected their website page same day, the same mistake that Epoch.com has on their page and will likely be there for some time. Here it is now corrected, and it appears the better reseller: 12V 460Ah - Heated & Bluetooth - LiFePO4 Battery - Epoch Essentials ~ Current Connected
The Epoch Essentials 12460ES battery is only 8.6" wide (as the User Manual stated, but the web page had width and height numbers reversed). This means two (2) of them can fit side-by-side in the Oliver battery bay with the sliding tray removed (I'm removing mine regardless to lose weight and gain height in the bay to get my arms in there for service). Great deal to get 920AH of LiFePO4 batteries for $2,798 total. The reviewer was correct in suggesting an US-based company to provide good local customer service. For many 460AH is quite enough and at $1,399 is an amazing deal! One of these does fit in the OEM sliding battery tray. Heck with the tray, I want two! Looking for Epoch to offer an additional 15% off like they offered for their Black Friday sale last year (coming soon)!
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We coulda paid double for a new one! I’ve been working on ours daily…
And she keeps gettin’ betta!
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2 hours ago, rideadeuce said:
This socket also has an On/OFF button so you don't have to stare at blue lights with the cap off.
Thanks Mike, for sharing this. I’m buying two on your recommendation. Love the USB-C for fast charging! I always cut the caps off these outlets prior to install, like I already did to the ones in our Oliver that we use. Not enough time in my day to fiddle with these caps unless it’s on a boat or my side-by-side necessary to keep the dirt out!
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51 minutes ago, topgun2 said:
the old glue
Thanks Bill. Sometimes when a vinyl floor gets wet or left overly dirty over time, it’s the old glue that can get smelly!
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Just now, GlacierGirl said:
Thank you so much @jd1923! 😊
All in all, with 540W solar, Lithionic batteries, and I'll assume a 3000W inverter (?) you have a GREAT solar/battery/inverter system! Just learn how to read state-of-charge (SOC), meaning batteries % full, and plug in your suitcases (occaisonally) when the rooftop solar does not keep SOC high enough for your needs.
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4 minutes ago, GlacierGirl said:
Is a solar charger the same thing as a solar controller?
Yes Barb, in fact many vendors title their products "Solar Charge Controllers."
With the added two Renogy 100W suitcases you will have total 540W. The 30A charger-controller is for the 340W roof-mounted solar and I believe the Zamp port requires an external controller that you have in one of your 100W suitcases.
I haven't done the suitcase thing, but there are many here with vast experience to answer your questions. Also search the forum for keywords, 'Zamp' or 'Renogy' or 'suitcase' and you should find a lot of good info.
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My wife says ours has a faint smell, same smell when we bought it from past owners after considerable cleaning. They had a runner and floor mats which I had cleaned and then decided not to use again. I believe the flooring might has a slight smell. Don't smell it when camping but will so after it's been closed up for a while. We are going to do a serious floor cleaning after I get done with upgrades this summer. Maybe a past owner had a litter box under the dinette or that's where the dog slept. We want to really clean the floor but not sure what to use. Wonder if anybody has replaced their flooring in an Oliver?
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9 minutes ago, GlacierGirl said:
It came with the 340 watt rooftop solar panels.
This is really all you need to know. Are you thinking of upgrading them or adding to the solar system? The DC system in the Oliver is 12V.
Watts = Volts x Amps so 340W = 12V x 28.3A so you likely have a 30A solar charger or close to it. The Blue Sky system in our older hull includes a 25A charger.
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On 6/25/2024 at 8:03 AM, mountainoliver said:
The Zantrex inverter will run 1,800 watt loads continuously...
During my test, our Penguin II was pulling just over 1800W after it got warmed up. Battery voltage was very close to 12V and I believe it momentarily hit under 12V which created an error code on the Xantrex. (Our unit only has the remote power switch, not the remote panel, so I could only read data from the SmartShunt).
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12 minutes ago, Mike and Carol said:
Same here. This will probably be the last summer for our old Dometic noise maker.
This would be going from one Dometic to another! I need to do better, and if wiring a relay or something is required, then fine.
Here is an interesting spec of the Dometic FreshJet 3, "4 dB less noise than select rooftop air conditioners." Also, why did Dometic retire the FreshJet 2200? It didn't sell? And "4 dB less" than the Dometic Penguin II is still very noisy.
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3 hours ago, JDB_Traveler said:
Can you more clearly explain the two way and three way switch comment? What do you mean by this being another indicator of cause?
The two-way switches are where you have one switch one light. Three-way switches allow turning the light ON/OFF from two different switch locations, like from the main light panel you pictured and a secondary light panel (like one over the curbside bed or under the pantry).
3 hours ago, JDB_Traveler said:I have been seeking help from Oliver with little to no success. I have requested help in understanding the wiring layout
Asking re the wiring layout is hypothetical. If you are not able to test circuits for voltage and ground connections for continuity, nothing that can be worked over the phone. An electrician has been suggested or even a local mobile mechanic that is good with auto electrical 12VDC can help.
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There is a simple one wire fix to your lighting issue!
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Something else just dawned on me…
The three lights out, are likely the same three you do not have switches on the remote panel, right of the kitchen. These are two-way switches and the others are all 3-way. This is another indicator of cause.
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58 minutes ago, JDB_Traveler said:
Attached is a picture of my master lights switch panel and the three switches without power align with the lights I don't currently have.
So your Porch, Outside Courtesy and Closet (the ones without a lighted LED) do not work, and all the others do? Your first post listed more lights out.
Those 3 have proximity to the doorway area. They must share a power source or ground separate from the others. Our older hull has no LEDs so in a way you have built-in test lights.
I'm not a service ticket guy, but I would in your case. Send OTT this picture and explain exactly which lights do not work. Anybody who wires these for OTT should determine cause in a minute. Its likely not at the panel but at the 12V feed or a specific ground.
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32 minutes ago, rich.dev said:
How is the reception inside your trailer with the router inside the TV?
Edit: Bummer, just realized the TV install will not work, we have Blink cameras on the Oliver that we want to be able to monitor when away from it!
Reception is great because these 7-way antennas have 4 cellular antennas for receiving signal, one GPS antenna and 2 Wi-Fi antennas to send signal to your devices. The Oliver being mostly fiberglass construction allows radio waves to pass through (will NOT work with a metal-clad Air Stream where they would install a wired access point internal to the TT regardless of antenna location).
@rideadeuce Mike is having an issue with coverage in the TV. He has a 5-way Cradlepoint antenna mounted on the rear of the Oliver. Your idea of mounting to the front awning bracket should be the best mounting location on the Oliver, except for taking a lot of headwinds, so mount it securely.
Keep in mind the Wi-Fi signal originates in the router, but is broadcasted via the antenna, so mounted inside a closet or wherever does not matter except for it needing some, not a lot, of ventilation. Also, I mounted my router with 3M VHB 4950 tape. The only drilled hole you need in the installation is through the roof for the cables.
The Icotek entry solution you were looking at could be installed by drilling two holes with a hole saw vs. cutting a rectangular opening. You only need the double grommet version with four 5mm holes in each and one plug. The cut-out size on this item is 43 × 24 mm. I'd bet 2x a 7/8" hole saw would be perfect! VHB the housing onto the roof and caulk the perimeter. 90 Degree Cable Entry Frame - 2 Socket - 73mm x 53mm – MobileMustHave.com
Your last edit sentence finally gave me a reason for mounting the router in the Oliver! Thank you for that. There is one downside though, depending on where you travel. Out here we camp in many canyons without cell service. So, you would not be able to connect the Blink cameras anyway. When this occurs, we run the TV out of the canyon on a day trip and connect, use our laptops, etc.
The Pepwave router also has the WAN input to add Starlink or like service. If you were to go this route, you would nearly always be connected. Mike also did a nice Starlink antenna install up front and he ran the cable all the way back on the roof. You could do the same front install and run that cable down the same entry point.
If this upgrade may be in your future, buy this Icotek instead and drill 3 holes. Use a grommet plug until you need the 3rd opening: 90 Degree Cable Entry Frame - 3 Socket - 100mm x 53mm – MobileMustHave.com
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@rich.dev, I was thinking again about running the 12VDC to the closet and knew there was a good example of this. Also, running DC lines from there, you could add a dedicated fuse for the router in the DC fuse panel and eliminate the inline fuse in the wiring.
Note the description and pictures on page one, where Art @MAX Burner fishes two large 4AWG cables from the dinette to the bathroom vanity:
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3 hours ago, topgun2 said:
Thanks - except for that "old dog" part.😁
Somehow Bill, I knew the reply you would write, and I had a dream about some sad dog GIF!
Multiplus II with PD EMS wiring help
in Ollie Modifications
Posted
Mike, I know you did the Epoch battery upgrade. Did you ever install a Victron MP2?
I've been under the dinette rear seat a bit lately. Wasted my time on adding a KISAE ATS since the Victron MP2 has an internal ATS.
I just spent an hour or more figuring out this same scenario in my head and came back in the house and searched for the term 'Multiplus' and found your post. We came to the same conclusion, as what you wrote above appears correct to me.
You only need L2 for AC circuits you do not want to run off battery. I do not fully understand the L2 output, because if it is a pass-thru why do they mention 40ms?
But for the Oliver, with 920AH in batteries and soon you will have an efficient Atmos A/C, you could connect the MP2 L1 output to the entire 120V AC panel, just as the wiring coming from the EMS powers the full panel today (you can see this wiring in the picture). The MP2 is 50A capable and we have a 30A panel and shore power connection. I would imagine with this setup you could run the A/C and microwave at the same time and perhaps more given enough battery SOC.
I just measured mine. So, the Xantrex 2000 will come out and the Victron ATS and junction box (not visible), and the KISEA top left in the pic will all be removed. The PD charger can also come out of the panel, and I figured a larger cooling fan could go there and maybe a 3" vent at the top of the dinette seat.
With all that removed, the space on mine is 20" wide, 16 1/2" tall and full depth is 11". The MP2 measures 14.3" tall, 10.2" wide and 8.6" deep. There is just enough space to wire it vertically as suggested, with maybe enough room for cabling out of the bottom and no extra room on top (should be 4"). There is ample space to mount it horizontally and with a vent and fan. It would be cool if an external fan can be controlled by the MP2 as it has so many ports, some programmable.
For me funding an A/C upgrade, LI batteries and the MP2 will take a while, but I believe it is a great plan to pursue.