jd1923

This has got to stop! Perhaps in your eyes, but I never call the opinions of others wrong, nor personally attack fellow Oliver Owners calling them "rude" as you have done. I quote "rude" from your post of last week, where I bit my tongue with no reply, only marking your post with a Sad emoji. This wasn't the first time. BTW, opinions are NOT facts, mine nor yours. Facts can be wrong, and opinions cannot by definition. I premised my statement with "IMHO" and OMG, I even wrote that others may believe in the contrary position. I will say that my opinions are based on literally several hundreds of professional installations I have labored myself in the aftermarket automotive service industry and a dozen auto/truck restorations, now on my 3rd RV restoration/upgrade. I have helped and been thanked for many knowledgeable posts, including this one before your comments, where today I spent a half hour of my time researching and writing this. I do not need OTT or any other Service Co to work on my Oliver. It will be worked using my opinions and two hands. I write from this knowledge and capability. So let's get the facts straight. Please allow me to quote Mr. Sokol from the article you linked, where he wrote "However, for any of you who don’t have an intelligent/EMS surge protector like your EMS-HW50C which checks for high and low voltage as well as open grounds, let me suggest..." Simply put, he wrote for those "who don't have" the EMS-HW50C (Olivers have the 30A version of the same "intelligent/EMS" device). I certainly agree with Mr. Sokol's opinion. Mr. Dorrer, you can PM me with an apology if you like. That would be a great way to end this. You voiced your opinion twice here. Can we stick to the subject. P.S. Forum Mods: Please feel free to delete this post given you have deleted its predecessor. There is no call for either and I'm truly sorry for my part! 😞

The PD5100 ATS switches between two shore power sources (streetside or front receptacle intended for a generator). If the ATS goes bad, burns on the wrong side, you could have no power at all. It's likely not this device. It is the EMS that has the remote switch with status and error code reader. See my first picture. The ATS is on left and EMS on the right. It would be difficult to ascertain which unit a noise would be coming from, being side-by-side in the same cabinet. Your setup may look different, since on our older hull OTT did not install an EMS and I installed the same unit to copy the newer OEM build. Don't know how any power failure could start an inverter that was truly switched OFF, but I've read there are some different ON/OFF configurations on this model. Perhaps other experienced Xantrex 3000 owners could chime in here. We have a few! The EMS E0 code means no error. This is the status you want. E1 through E10 are stated errors, defined on the cover plate and manual. The EMS is a sensitive device. Another member just showed it to be the issue in their case. See this thread and notice the picture at the end showing the burnt neutral wire: Air conditioner and 110 outlets stop working while camping - Page 2 - Mechanical & Technical Tips - Oliver Owner Forums (olivertraveltrailers.com) My second picture shows the insides of a good EMS when first installed. All wiring should look clean, free of corrosion and all connections tight. It's impossible to diagnose an intermittent electrical issue from a past trip. I do suggest this as a check. Frist make sure that you are NOT connected to shore power and trip the 30A breaker as a secondary precaution. Remove the cover to the PD5100 ATS (snap-fit, clips on the sides) and remove the EMS cover plate (6 small Phillips screws). First use a strong flashlight and inspect every wire and connection, for anything not clean looking. Then tighten the 6 terminal screws in the EMS and I believe there are 9 connections in the ATS. Replace the covers. Power up again when needed and that's likely all you can do for now, though you may soon get other suggestions. I also suggest when the Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C product is installed you do NOT add another "surge protector plugged in at the post." I've read here and elsewhere where many forum members will disagree with me on this notion, but IMHO possible interference between these devices outweighs redundancy. Give the lesser post model to a friend that needs one. Could be there was no physical issue, merely the shore power at that campsite had intermittent surging causing the EMS to switch OFF/ON quickly which it is designed to do and does create sound in the solenoids opening/closing. However, I live by the motto "hear something, say something, do something!" You did the first two steps. Pull the covers on both devices for inspection and maintenance. Something I did when purchasing our used Oliver for peace of mind.

Thank you, Mike! Or perhaps consider a 350A ANL fuse if you want to error on the side of caution (350Ax12V=4200W). I'm not sure why they spec a 400A fuse (4800W)! This is actually double the stated 2400W continuous power output of the MP2. Peak at 2x continuous seems high to me but Victron engineers should know. Certainly, a 250A fuse is not enough for the power needs of the MP2! I also wonder if the Class-T is needed in our application? You already have Class-T built into your batteries which is the most expensive component of your installation. I took a couple courses in electrical engineering, but like y'all, I learned what I know from doing, decades working on old cars, RVs and homes. And we all learn from forums and the OTT Forum has amazing members, helpful, knowledgeable and super responsive! When researching online, I often add the word 'forum' to the end of a keyword search. I join a new forum every time I purchase a new project vehicle! I learned most of this subject from another online forum, when building a from scratch solar/inverter setup in a Bigfoot RV. On the BOCI forum, I became friends with an EE who worked his installation prior to mine and was there to help, every step of the way! Our AZ home came with one 200A panel. Over the years, I've added 4 subpanels! The first was 60A for the spa, running 100' cable from garage through the attic and down. Then 100A in an outbuilding for 220V compressor and woodworking tools. 60A for the kitchen with separate 20A breakers for fridge and extra oven (while running natural gas there for a new cooktop). I removed the electric cooktop, so I thought to use the original 8-3 cabling for having a better powered kitchen! Chris loves it, as she can run two ovens and the microwave without worries and the fridge does not overheat in the summer months anymore (with a 10 AWG feed vs 14 AWG wiring on a 15A circuit along with other wall outlets). Most recently we added a 60A panel for a new (used) Tuff Shed with 30A RV outlet. We trenched the side yard and ran 125 FT of 8-3 direct burial cable. Just some ideas to consider! 🤣 Restoration and enhancement projects have been my lifelong hobby, as I can tell so many here have as well. We have a huge amount of collective tacit knowledge in the regulars here. I've been often asked, "How do you know how to do that?" My usual answer is, "I don't know, but I will when I'm finished." I was able to work a quick effective project here, starting from 3 Oliver owners who came before and posted. I posted my project in great detail for those who sooner or later will have this on their Wishlist. I did not have this on my radar at all, thinking the LiFePO4 investment was too much $$$, until you Mike made it look reasonable and relatively simple! Thank you for that. And thank you @mossemi for your insight here and often! I can see how running 1/0 cables, even doubled, would be an easier installation in boat hulls then the bulky 4/0. Perhaps also cheaper when puchasing large spools.

It will be a pain to open the battery door daily and don’t leave the trailer that way with expensive LiFePO4 batteries exposed! Common RV theft is batteries and LP tanks. If you know the parts you need, you could order on Amazon today and get before the weekend. You’d have to be comfortable drilling a small entry hole in your Oliver. Since you’re purchasing a suitcase with integrated SC, all you need to do is run the two wires to the pos and neg buses built into your Oliver. A couple of pics and we could advise. Just a thought. What model suitcase solar did you buy?

I'm not seeing 250A for this application. Keep in mind the 4/0 welding cable is rated at 600V and of course we're at 12V. OTT had installed a 250 ANL fuse in ours for the 2KW Xantrex and I think you would blow the 250 soon enough running the MP2 at capacity. I was going with a 300A until I found this. See PDF page 16 of the Victron MP2 manual (where they have written a spec for a 400A fuse on 1/0 cable for short runs): There is much confusing and differing information out there! You got me thinking 300A would have been a better choice (but why does Victron write 400A for the12V model?). See this from What Is The Ampacity Of 4/0 Welding Cable? (nassaunationalcable.com) where they state: "According to IEWC, the ampacity of 4/0 welding cable for 600-volt in-line applications is 315 Amps when the copper temperature is 60 C, and the ambient temperature is 40 C." They do not state for how many feet of cable. Also, tables like this are everywhere online, stating the 4/0 Welding cables handles 600A: Also, does the Victron table mean running two (2) 1/0 cables, doubling up the cable? Why would they do that? BTW the cross-sectional area of two (2) 1/0 cables is basically the same as a 4/0 cable.

Many were saying a bad neutral and that’s what you found. The hot output has a current sensor around it. However, the EMS is monitoring input shore power, the hot out, but not the neutral on the output side. Good find!

That's for sure! We lived in Georgetown and Lakeway, TX over a 9-year period when we still owned our AZ home, going back and forth 2-3 times a year. I drove it straight through once, pulling a cargo trailer, Prescott to Lakeway, 5AM to near 2AM. In our 20 roundtrips, AZ to central TX, we rarely drove the exact same route twice. I can't stand driving I-10 unless it's January and snowing up north. Sometimes we would leave a Friday afternoon after work and drive I-10, stay at a lovely (just kidding) 3-star hotel in Van Horn, TX (pretty area NW of the Davis Mountains). Make it the next day, home in Prescott. We will camp at the Davis Mountains SP this year returning from the Texas Rally. Most of the time we would head out of Austin area NW on state highways. Driving through Llano, Mason, Brady, San Angelo, Big Spring and often an overnight in Roswell NM. The next day we would head west through Lincoln County NM to Socorro and then take US Hwy 60 into Arizona. This route is an hour or two longer, but NO interstates. This is basically the route we will drive the opposite direction heading to the Texas Rally this October, 3 nights camping on the Mongollon Rim (Rim Rd east of Payson, AZ) and Greer AZ, one night somewhere in-between, then 3 nights in Ruidoso, NM. All that will be boondocking, but we will need a campsite or RV park somewhere around Big Spring TX as a layover to Inks Lake. Living an hour from Sedona, there are so many stops I mentioned here that we much prefer. Now that I am semi-retired, having periods 2-3 times a year with 3-4 weeks off, I like to plan easy trips where we drive only 2 to 4 hours max per day.

This inverter is a beast! When I first field tested it, I disconnected shore power and ran the A/C off of inverter only. It was reading over 3500W and I didn't understand. This is not a 3KW inverter, but a 3KVA rated at 2400W continuous. How was it able to run at 3500W+ for 1-2 minutes until I realized it and turned off the A/C? When I did the inverter was still pulling over 1500W. I thought that nothing else was on, so I started tripping the 120VAC breakers. The last one did it and I found out we had the HWH AC switch on! Whoa, won't do that again. Then it ran A/C for the next 4 hours. I turned it down to 72 degrees and the compressor was running about 2.5 of the four hours. This old Dometic PII takes +/- 1800W or 150A DC inverted. IT dropped down for 37% SOC. Given 63% of 600AH used is 378AH and if you divide that by 150A for the A/C it comes to 2 1/2 hours running the PII full on compressor running. As @rideadeuce has shown the Atmos A/C takes half this amperage, so with a future A/C upgrade, we should be able to run all the A/C we need for the hot day now and then. Here's the internals of the MP2 Beast!

Epoch batteries come with Bluetooth and their App interface. You can see battery status and status of each of the 4 cells in the 2 batteries I installed. These pics were taken earlier and after a good discharge and full recharge the VOLDIFF between cells was only 0.01V, reading 0.0V in the top summary. Nice!

On the rare chance that you would be upgrading to LiFePO4 batteries and have the Blue Sky with IPN ProRemote, Ryan Gurin, Product Support Engineer at SUNFORGE LLC is amazing, responsive, friendly and helpful. All you need is this link he supplied and it's rather a straightforward configuration as soon as you get a handle on all the button clicks without missing! (Watch the video to learn this.) How to program BSE charge controllers for LiFePO4 batteries – Sunforge LLC

Besides the MP2 inverter, you need to purchase two devices. The VE.Bus Smart Dongle is used in place of a control screen. It's required to read MP2 status and for some basic functions like setting the shore power amperage and as an ON/OFF switch: VE.Bus Smart dongle - Victron Energy This device does not allow for configuration of the setup menus, so you will need the MK3-USB interface. I purchased the MK3-USB-C version since USB-C is faster and the newer style: Amazon.com: Victron Energy Interface MK3-USB-C (VE.Bus to USB-C) : Electronics (The picture shown is the USB but I purchased this item, and the title was correct as the MK3-USB-C and it was $8 less). The MP2 can be configured when attached to either 12VDC or 120VAC. I thought it would be smart to start the configuration and see the MP2 operate as a bench test prior to loading the 42 LB monster into the Oliver basement. I had a power cord I had saved from some device I had trashed. Pretty cool and everything working! Setup menus for

Another item on the mechanical installation. I used some rubber to cushion the inverter on the bottom and backsides. The thin rubber was cut to 6x24" the size of the HDPE board and I used carpet tape to keep it in position. The thick rubber cushion was cut from a truck rear floor mat, just laid in position and the strapping should hold it nicely in place.

Time to strap down the MP2. I used ¼”x20 Plus-Nuts that I learned of on a thread that @Frank C wrote on replacing the bathroom vanity cover. There is a heavy-duty interior lip that allows for this without exposing screws to the interior. I knew of this HD lip from last year, when the curbside I mounted brackets for our motorized ball valves for the plumbing system. Not easy to get these started without the special tool but I was not going to spend that money for two bolts! A long-bolt-nut concoction and needle-nose Vise-Grip did the trick. Doubled some rubber tape for a tight fit. I got sloppy on the rear-side strap allowing the drill bit to catch and it pulled the strap in a spiral. Had to straighten it out the best I could because replacing it would be a pain. I’ll add to this post soon to explain programming, both configuring the MP2 and updating the Blue Sky SC for LiFePO4 batteries and more usage data. Ran our old LOUD-dog Dometic Penguin II for 4 hours today while strapping down and finishing up. The inverter was supplying ~1600W and the SC about 200 (cloudy day) for 1800W total. The batteries were close to full and read 37% when done, but 100% SOC is not yet set so these may be off. Finally, thanks to Mike @rideadeuce for leading the way on Epoch batteries and the MP2 installation.

I wired everything prior to strapping the MP2 in place. The dual DC terminals allowed for the 4/0 battery cables and other +/- connections to the B+ and B- buses. These terminals made it so no additional +/- buses were required. Notice the SmartShunt (battery monitor) is wired directly to the ground at the MP2 vs. at the batteries, yet it is still first inline as it must be. I had 10-2 AWG direct burial cable from when I added the 30A RV outlet to our shed. I wired two runs, from the EMS and back to the 30A panel main breaker. One picture shows the old short round cable that was removed. The next picture under the rear dinette seat shows the new 120VAC wiring the MK3-USB-C interface needed to configure the MP2 inverter/charger. While I was in there, I disconnected the PD4000 controller and used that breaker to separate the microwave (now our Emeril Air Fryer) from the other 110V outlets. I will keep it there for if/when any major changes are met. Normal operation (OFF, ON, Inverter only, Charger only) and to set incoming amperage (15, 20, 30, or 50 (N/A)) can be set via the VictronConnect App via Bluetooth from VE.Bus interface. Both devices connect using any ethernet cable (have a box full)! No panels or screens must be installed cutting into walls, unless wanted. I must find a decorative patch for the Xantrex on/off switch I removed.

Next task was to build a platform for the MP2 to lay on it’s side and strapped to the wall. I purchased 4x4 post mounts and other Simpsom ties until it all came together. Notice the open area in the center of the first picture, rubber mat floor 4x4" in size. The area further back where the second mount would be would not take a 4x4 mount, closer to 3” width. The 4x4 in front just fit with one base tab cut off and the rear mount had to be inserted in the two parts pictured and bolted together in position. The rear mount as assembled was about 3/8” lower, so I added another layer of 3/8” HDPE board and the main board is 6x24” which you can see leveled in the last picture. I bolted strapping material to both bases prior to taping the shelf in place. Neither mount is bolted down since I did not want to penetrate the outer hull. Everything fits snuggly and the 42 LB weight of the MP2 (later) strapped above should hold it nicely.

I had just installed a Beech Lane dual cooling fan for the fridge cavity and thought the same fan would be great to vent the basement area under the streetside bed. A 3KVA inverter produces a great amount of heat when inverting and charging large amperage. I was waiting on delivery of the Victron Multiplus II inverter anyway and it makes sense to install this before the large inverter is in the way. This fan is a dual 5” fan. I had a 4” hole saw available and thought that was enough of an opening to clear the hot air in this small basement space. I ended up using a jigsaw to cut a straight line opening above and below (not pictured). Notice the L-bracket top-right in pictures, necessary since this wallboard is only connected to the floor and outer wall. Then I hung the fan inside, added a wire loom. I used the grill that I removed from the furnace return when I added a filter there. Yes, the control and grill are hung upside down. I could have wired it the other way, but the wires would have to loop below. I keep a duffle bag there, so I pointed the vent up to blow over it.

Simplicity in design is something I live by, so the goal is, beyond new batteries and inverter, to reuse everything else possible and not add any unnecessary cables, switches, buses, display screens or the like. Every additional connection adds resistance and possible points of failure. Mine is a minimum viable design (KISS). Getting the batteries positioned was my first task, since their purchase was the start of this project! The Epoch 300AH LiFePO4 batteries at 13 ½” long fit nicely sideways in the 14x21” battery tray. They are 7.3” wide, so there is a lot of space that I’ve filled with some 2x3” stock and rubber toolbox liner, both items I had on-hand. Given the snug fit, I do not believe they need a tie-down strap. They’re not going anywhere! Originally, I thought I would have a breaker and shunt in the battery bay and later decided all could be installed in the interior. I reused the 4/0 cables that OTT had installed but drilled a new hole for the B- cable to go directly rear to the new inverter location under the streetside bed. The B+ cable will be routed to the original Blue Seas ANL mount. I made a new 4/0 cable about 4’ long to get from the fuse assembly to the rear-mounted inverter. I was thinking Class-T fuse but decided to save the money and just buy the Victron specified 400A ANL fuse mounted in the OEM housing. Kept the original 250A fuse as a backup that would work for everything but running the A/C. I've cut battery weight near in half, and they sit further in as well. Don’t these batteries look great and there is nothing that can go wrong here. I’ll check them once or twice and then hope to keep this bay locked for years to come without worry!

I got a lot done this week! 🤣 In introduction, our 2016 Hull #113 has roof-mounted 340W Zamp solar, and had a 2KW Xantrex inverter (only with separate PD4000 converter) and 450AH 6V lead-acid batteries renewed in 2021. Given a recent price reduction and a 10% off sale with free shipping, we were motivated to purchase two Epoch 300AH LiFePO4 batteries for a total of 600AH and it made sense to upgrade to the Victron Multiplus II inverter/charger at the same time. Everything described to follow came to $3200 total investment including all small parts and the costs of many on-hand shop materials. Just two years ago, the cost of the LiFePO4 batteries alone would be nearly double! First, all the old had to be removed. Demolition is always fun first step in a project! I removed the lead-acid batteries (sold them on Craigs in just a few days) and all the cables, the Inverter, the ATS and junction box. It’s crazy how OTT wired shore power to inverter power, using wire nuts in this junction box, real backyard mechanic stuff (correct design would be to use a dual-bus power panel). Everything in these pics has been removed (anybody need a 2kW Xantrex system or spare parts)? The second crazy thing is where they installed the main DC fuse (see pic). No way would I have known it's up there until I removed the cables! To access this fuse, you have to sit low reaching through the rear dinette seat.

Yes, for sure! I like the simple tool better because the two discs are easy to wipe clean. Less money too. I've had mine for 40 years now. One disc is cracked and it still works. I should likely get a new one: 65250 Universal Bearing Packer | Lisle Corporation

I’m in your minority! ANY NLGI No. 2 grease, all rated 450F+ is as good as the others. I like mine for $7 a tube, worked well on 5 brake jobs so far. Otherwise it’s just brand preference. More important than brand is the quality of service, packing bearings tight with no air pockets. Spend the extra money on this tool: https://a.co/d/8ou3Qai

Mike @rideadeuce so you’ve been an Oliver owner for 7 years? (If bought new). OMG, what you have done re mods in just the last year. My humble respect. Great project and professional installation. This model has a similar attribute to the Isotherm, in that it has a very small freezer. Are there any modern RV compressor fridges with a large freezer? For us we would give up 2 CF of fridge space for 1 CF of freezer. We have this old, inefficient absorption fridge that has a freezer the width of the fridge and we use every square inch. Hope it keeps working. Great work! Can’t wait to read re your next project!

I've been wondering... Some have reported that when upgrading to the Alcan spring it has increased ride height up to an inch and that there is more travel in the leaf spring. Should a replacement shock allow for the greater travel? The Monroe 555001 is the OEM spring. Monroe also has the 555025 model, which is the same overall yet slightly longer with greater stroke. I copied these specs from the 4statetrucks website, as Bulldog has aftermarket replacements for both models: Shock Specs 555001 555025 Compressed (in) 7.95 8.66 Extended (in) 11.97 13.35 Stroke (in) 4.02 4.69 Perhaps those who have installed Alcan springs can chime in? @Mountainman198 @MAX Burner @ScubaRx and @rideadeuce Did the shocks installed appear the correct length or would it allow for +3/4" in compressed length and +3/4"stroke be a better fit? Sure, the OEM length fit, but would +3/4" in stroke allow the slightly taller springs to perform without constraint? When I get the chance to make this upgrade, I would take before and after measurements on one side prior to ordering (let her sit on jacks stands a couple days to get the right part). I'm figuring 3/4" longer should be better. This has been a discussion on other TT forum websites. Stronger spring rate in the shock would also be preferred although Monroe does not list these specs. Either way I would choose Bulldog over the Monroe OEM brand. Bulldog describes their products as a "High Quality Aftermarket Replacement Part (Not OEM)." This is the ~+3/4" longer version: Bulldog HD RV Shock Absorber Replaces 555025 For Trailer Leaf Spring Retro Kit - 4 State Trucks

Wish I could be there to help! Never witnessed a defect condition that would swap the hot and neutral readings. A faulty neutral makes some sense, but how does that happen when sitting at a campsite? Certainly replace the main 30A breaker. I would bypass it as a quick test, but I would not suggest this to anybody but a trained electrician. Too bad you do not have an inverter, as you could unplug from shore power and run on battery. I’m reading here daily to see if I can help, yet it’s difficult to troubleshoot virtually. Godspeed and wishes!

That's great! If you decide to run these wires, fish down vs. up. Not a big deal since it is just as easy to pull the fridge vent on the exterior. Once you get temp set, there is not much need to change it, with one exception. When 12VDC is turned off to the controller it must be reset when reconnected. Yes, good observation. We refill ice trays only after dinner and the less you open the fridge door in the heat of the day, the better. During afternoons, I will grab a cold bottle of water quickly and shut the door!

Agree 100%. These external sensors are some better than in other RVs. We just know how many days the gray and black will last and have extra fresh tank in the TV. We don’t use the readout.