jd1923

Yeah, the OEM Dometic A/C is a horrible POS and to not bother your next neighbor, and to get some sleep yourself, you will eventually replace it (sooner rather than later). Search on this Forum for keywords like Atmos, Tosot, Turbro, Greenland and Pioneer, maybe even Houghton is still viable (nice if Houghton brings an inverter A/C to the states).

Doesn't she look pretty?! 🤣 We ran two 30 mile test runs, U-bolts torqued now 3 times. Before the test drive today, I manually pushed the little self-adjuster gears on all 4 wheels. She was braking quite well today, so very nice after so little mileage. New D52 axles, new HD leaf springs, new EZ Flex equalizers, new wet bolts and HD shackles, totally new suspension! 😂

No complaints EVER on the LevelMatePRO+! Make sure you get the '+' model. Batteries, big batteries, we don't need no stinkin' batteries! You hardwire the + model to 12V in any easy location, like under dinette seat where 12V connections are right there. Know you'll never have to touch it again, leave it always ON, always working, always active when needed! 🤣

We moved back to our AZ home seven years ago after living for 12 years back and forth between two homes, where my tools were spread between the two and my truck. On Craig's I found large stand-up Snap-on toolbox and was lucky to find a huge, well made workbench setup that Adam and I disassembled to move and rebuilt it to fit a custom L-shaped layout around 2 stalls of our 3-car garage, the center stall being my workspace. I also found a used Tuff Shed for storage, so my garage would be solely an auto workshop, not junked up with storage items. I installed other standing toolboxes and cabinets, enough room for a major 45-year collection of hand tools and spare parts. Then I emptied every hand-carry toolbox into the larger stationery toolboxes. During a winter cold-spell I spent days sorting our every box and package I hade with nuts & bolts, auto parts, electrical and plumbing parts. , etc. I bought a case of blue plastic single-gang electrical boxes (cheap effective storage bins) to hold all the small screws, nuts & bolts, nails, crimp parts..., drawers full of them in mounted file cabinets. For years now to the present, I know where every tool and most spare parts are located. I return all tools to where they belong daily, unless I'm in the middle of a job I will continue the very next day. Spending considerable time in organizing your tools is well worth it. I get repairs done now in half the time, not having to hunt for parts and tools! In getting ready to work, climbing under truck or trailer, I think a hard 5-10 minutes and collect part & tools needed in flat plastic trays that I lay on the ground where I'm working. The other thing I bring, since I/we will always forget something is my phone. With Chris' office just inside our home from the garage entrance, she's nearby and often happy to help. 😂 She'll come out to hand me a tool or two, knowing its easier for her to do so vs. what it takes me to get off a hard garage floor, and then climb down again. I do mean the word 'climb' as the downs and ups are not as easy as they used to be! 🤣 We all prefer to work preventive maintenance at home vs. getting stuck on the road. I have enough extras that I've assembled a small dedicated toolbox and a plastic parts box for the Oliver. They sit in the bottom of my large truck toolbox along with a 3/4" breaker bar, cheater bar and other long items. Proud to be keeping our truck and trailer in good maintenance so that these tools just sit ready, and have not been yet needed, 124 overnights in two years with our Oliver! Hope to never need them, but I have what we need to change tires, bearings, leaf springs or do a truck repair, like replacing an alternator or water pump on the road. Now that we've upgraded to Alcan Leaf Springs, I just removed the spare set of 1750 LB springs from the TV. The Alcans are not going to fail in my lifetime, though I do have tools with to replace wet bolts/bushings or most anything else!

I serviced the front jack after we purchased our Oliver near 2 years ago. It sounded dry and the front lift jack is certainly used at least 2x more often than the rears. The rears are also protected from the elements. To date the motor/gear sounds on the rear jacks where good. I've been replacing the Dexter axles and leaf springs on our Oliver and using the rear jacks for the heavy lift, getting the wheels off the ground, a few times in the last couple weeks. Yesterday the curbside sounded like the motor was drawing too much current (slowing down) and then started clicking not lifting. The clicking sound was like the sound you get when releasing the jack, lifting the shaft too high hitting the stop, but it made this sound while pushing down to lift the trailer, only halfway up, nowhere near the 18" lift-height of the VIP3000. From rebuilding the front jack, I noted wear on the worm-drive gear that's attached to the motor (see picture of motor gear from my front jack service). If the rears show the same upon disassembly, I will need to replace the motor(s). I found this part with a quick search. I can buy 3 of these for the cost of one complete VIP3000 and we know the rear jacks have a custom weld that must be reused or replaced. https://highskyrvparts.com/barker-mfg-trailer-landing-gear-motor-16263 Have any of you have to service your rear jacks, including replacing any worn parts? I understand how to remove them and service them. I guess I'll only know after I remove the jack that is presently not functioning. See page 2 of this link to see the service I worked on the front jack. I will keep y'all posted on the repair... https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/4094-how-to-vip-3000-electric-stabilizer-jack-service/page/2/#comment-94339

Yes, English Spring Spaniel, liver & white!

No easy path! 🤣 The outer and interior shells of the Oliver are tight and in-between, lot'sa luck in doing so. Many have asked, but nobody on this forum has demonstrated a viable build. Perhaps it's an idea that does not have a feasible solution. IMO, drop the idea. In the same vain, I wonder why some want an inferior 12V television, when with LiFePO4 batteries an inverter can simply run an 120VAC TV. 12V TVs have limited selection and truly lame resolution. Instead I prefer to run a 4K high-def Samsung monitor, 3/4" thin white and beautiful on 120VAC. IMHO...

Reason to ask more questions! There's no such thing as a dumb question (what I tell my students daily in project management training). Many members here want to help. All questions are good and you've already shown you search the forum first, ask good questions, and have quickly added a proper signature. To operate trucks, tow vehicles effectively, and towing trailers requires a wealth of knowledge! What can we help you with! 😂

Bring up your cute little kitten soon in the Oliver and s/he will love it. Spend time in the Oliver and driving in the tow vehicle regularly, no problems. Dogs are easy. Charley loves the Oliver, though he prefers the TV and the sound of the Cummins! We better have him in his personal back seat in the truck, before I start 'er up, or he thinks we could leave without him! He doesn't understand we would never leave without him! 🐶

I run 45 PSI highway and when boondocking on local washboard roads I reduce to 38 PSI. I was just testing our new suspension over speed bumps at 45 PSI and I could see the tires nicely compress while taking in the speed bump. 40 PSI is enough however since we are certainly running less than 7K LBS GTW. Some have written they will lower the tire PSI because of the stiffer springs. PSI should be determined on trailer weight. This upgrade has likely added about 150 LBS in heavier parts. Running D52 axles and Alcan springs going a little over the 7K GTWR should not be a big deal. With axles, springs, wheels and tires that can handle over 10K LBS, only the Oliver frame is the limiting factor. We know a member with multiple upgrades, upgraded suspension with disc brakes, my guess is he is well over 8K LBS actual GTW. 45 PSI is a good MAX number for most. I do not believe in adding PSI as a buffer allowing notification time using a TPMS. The PSI should be adjusted for actual GTW only. On the Michelin Agilis 40 PSI gives you 7,180 LBS and 45 allows up to 7,800. 50 PSI allows for 8,360 LBS GTW. Do you need more pressure?

Yes 120VAC, and so are the inverter-compressor models like the Turbro Greenland and Pioneer. 12VDC requires running new heavy gauge wire from batteries to the A/C location on the roof since the amperage draw of 12VDC is 10x more than when running on 120VAC. Therefore, 12VDC models are generally light-duty with BTU ratings under 10K vs. 13.5 to 15K BTU that is required for living and camping in most of the USA!

Welcome Pat to our wonderful Oliver TT Forum and Community!

First @Mountainman198, Lance get the cat OFF the dinner table! 🤣 We have dogs now, but Mom was a cat lover, we were brought up with cats. They prefer their own space! Bill & Nancy, love your idea to mod the front dinette area! Give it some real thought while taking some time developing your best plan. Being an Oliver Mod guy… you have a very good idea.

Wow, never seen a post after the phrase, “9 years later!” That’s almost as old as our old hull. 🤣 You can put all the hardware you want on your Oliver and if I wanted to, I’d just wrap a chain to the front of your trailer, winch it up on the back of any truck and drag it down the street, gone! Some believe planting the stabilizer jacks down and switching off the jack power helps. No, no way, do that and as I’m dragging your Oliver down the street, you’ve just caused damage to your 3 jacks and likely body damage to your hull. Yep, good news is there’s not a black market for Oliver parts, given we are a small tight-knit community. I promise you thieves would target Winnebago and the other big names. I’ve never seen “Parting an Oliver” on Craig’s! 🤣 Get insurance, do the security basics, and enjoy life in your Oliver! This is coming from a man, brought up in Chicago, the crime capital of the most of the US, where back in the day, I would bar the windows in my garages on the West Side! We try to leave these negative feelings in the past. Try to enjoy more than you worry. Now at home on purpose, I leave our cars unlocked overnight! It’s therapy. There is enough to worry about trailering an Oliver through the mountains and to remote corners of America. Have FUN! 😂

Good to know and we're looking forward to your build thread! 😎

It sure is! And as usual Geoff... You can wire anything that comes to mind (we are not worthy) 🤣! This is a GREAT upgrade for anybody who already has the PRO vs. the preferred PRO+. When we were shopping for ours two years ago, I came close, but soon realized the PRO+ included a wiring harness. Anybody reading not have one, OMG get one and pay $120 for the PRO+ vs. $100 for the PRO. I paid $102 Nov 2023 for the PRO+! I stay in the driver's seat of the truck to level. I open the app and move back and forth to get as close as possible. Then Chris gets out after I tell here where to place the Andersen levelers. When she gets them in place, I pull up or back depending and we can be at near perfect level, set the parking brake and we're done! Running this device on battery - OMG NEVER! I would be truly upset if the app could not find the device (for a dead battery). I wired ours under the rear dinette seat, where our B+ and B- buses are located in reach of the PRO+ included wiring harness (no splices or butt connectors required). The side of the PD ATS provided a good horizontal surface, installed in a just few minutes (see pic). We would not leave home without these accessories: https://www.amazon.com/LogicBlue-Technology-LevelMatePRO-Wireless-Leveling/dp/B083ZMZPR8/?th=1 https://www.amazon.com/ANDERSEN-HITCHES-Accessories-Leveler-Leveling/dp/B01MQNGOWD/?th=1 https://www.amazon.com/ANDERSEN-Accessories-Stabilizers-Jackstands-Quickjack/dp/B0888SDR63/?th=1 If you have the PRO, certainly work Geoff's mod ASAP! If not, buy the PRO+ and if you do not have either... Get out of the dark ages! 🤣 (life is short)

Finally done! Worked on this every-other-day this week. Looks great, doesn't she?! Alternate days are for Pickleball. My body can only take one kind of daily trauma! 🤣 Days on the court cannot be combined with hours climbing under truck or trailer! How many times did I get down on the driveway, sitting on a milk crate, craning my neck to fit under the Oliver fenders. or lying down on the ground, and then climbing back up? Way too many times, no matter how well I plan having parts and tools required! UPS came early yesterday allowing me to finish with new E-Z Flex equalizers from eTrailer (2-day ship only $6.50 extra, adding another $316 to the grand total)! You should check your equalizers. Some may have upgraded leaf springs without the equalizers being removed and cleaned up for inspection (it's the right time to do it). Details on this and other concerns soon. Look for a new thread on this subject. All that's left now is to torque and grease the wet bolts (our son Adam will power the torque wrench under the trailer and the DeWalt power grease gun makes this easy). Mount wheels & tires and test drive. I'll tow some miles on local highways and hilly/winding roads, then retorque the U-bolts upon return. Park the Oliver to free up my driveway again. Another trip to Southwestern Colorado is just 3 weeks away!

I would check out @rideadeuce Mike's post. He was able to fit a deeper sink, square bottomed, and improved faucet. Our OEM faucet leaks on and off at the junction of the extension hose, until I get under there again to seal it and someday replace it. Mike discusses the issues with the OEM faucet and sink design. It looks great, modern design, likely better quality stainless, a very good-looking upgrade! The down side is loosing the backside of your kitchen "junk drawer." It would be great if somebody found a better sink, slightly deeper and square bottomed, not requiring such under-counter surgery! 😎

What the heck is that wood-looking thing? A valence, and for what? I installed shelves up there! Please don't take everything I write to heart. 😎 We love OTT and 2x that sentiment in owning Hull #113! But do take me seriously when working M&R on a trailer, our tow vehicles, or anything I tear apart! This mod was pretty cool, however I later mounted the cupholder (on my side only) to be rear of trailer. It was in my line-of sight when propped in bed looking out the window. Chris loves hers as-is. I just love waking up in the Oliver, crack the window shade open a few inches. Looking to see, what kind of day will it be? 😂 Give me a replacement window? My user-story is one about it functioning fully while lying in bed as it does today. Otherwise who cares? Sure is pretty! 🤣

For sure, we're all different! 🤣 At home 6 years ago, I removed our electric induction cooktop (it was an older cooktop, perhaps not the latest technology), ran natural gas pipe to a new cooktop. Then I used the 8 AWG wire that was for the cooktop and added a sub-panel so that our fridge and Emeril Oven would have their own 20A circuits! It's been a great kitchen mod and we would never go back. So, quite the opposite from Rob's comment. We like the simplicity of gas, what you see is the heat applied. And when camping, we must have LP for outdoor cooking, and our fire ring for sure. The LP Atwood furnace is another must have, don't want heat pump running above our heads! We're going to keep those two 30# LP tanks in addition to more/better batteries! We prefer the stainless sinks too, but can see how this would make installation easier and costs lower for OTT. This thread seems like fantasy-land to me. Out of all of us reading and writing, who is in the market for a new Oliver anyway? Not us! There is only room in life for one Oliver, for sure. I'm truly glad we prefer what we already have with mods already made. It's like when OTT went to touch lights, nothing but problems. Our old switched lights, working now 10 years, and would not change a thing. Don't want those new windows either! 🤣

I thought about the mod many of you have gone with and decided to go with the standard configuration. The end bolts are easier forward facing and the shackle bolts are easy enough with an elbow fitting and power grease gun. Takes a bit of extra reach or climbing under when the Zerks are facing inwards. Half the time when lubing, I’ll likely have the wheels off anyway to check brakes, adjust the “self-adjusters”, check the tires thoroughly, pressure wash the backsides, and remove all the annoying gravel (when doing so, I’ve found countless nails and other metal objects in tire treads. BTW, pulling and replacing wet bolts is NOT easy, as the bolt alignment is not always there. 🤣

I generally prefer working on my own vehicles (and home) vs. contracting trades. However, the reasonable amount Alcan charges for labor is well worth it! This is not as easy as it looks! 🤣 Both axles are in today. Torque the wet bolts and brake wiring yet to do. Friday I have new E-Z Flex equalizers coming.

Thanks for the idea! I should do a magnet mount version, since I have power and Ethernet wired to the top of our tow vehicle. Our router is inside the TV too. @SeaDawg raised one issue and the back of the Oliver is not level, so you have the get the mount angle to the north of course, and at the same time the angle off the horizon must be the same as the Mini kick-stand. Your mount has great flexibility but likely would take climbing up there a few times to get the proper angle. Thanks again and best wishes.

Ready to put in place tomorrow...

Thanks. I came up with this idea a couple days ago and purchased these. It allowed me to disassemble all without a helper and should work the same for the installation of the new axles and leaf springs after building the assemblies on our garage floor. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CWTW7TQY/