jd1923
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Posts posted by jd1923
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1 hour ago, JRK said:
When Oliver was putting 85 psi in the tires, there were many issues. That has been resolved, but I have not heard of 42-46. They changed it to 65 psi, but I have been using 60. I will try a lower psi rating...
Problem is too many company policies are created by lawyers. OTT is likely worried some of us will load our trailer up to 10K LBS, so they likely factored in a 50% margin in their number.
The rating on the tire is MAX. Tire companies do not suggest running at MAX unless you are running MAX weight. This chart is for the OEM tire brand/model and you can look for a Cooper table, but for the same size tire, Load Range E, they will all be about the same. Notice at 50 PSI on the table the rating is 2090 LBS. We have four (4) single tires (The rows marked "Dual" are for dually TVs and Class-C RVs). Four times 2090 = 8,360 LBS and nobody should load that much stuff into their Ollies! 65 PSI on these tires is for a dual-axle trailer with two 5200 LB axles.
At 40 PSI, 4 of these tires will carry 4 x 1795 = 7180 LBS and the Oliver Elite II has a GTRW of 7,000 LBS. Therefore, if you are not exceeding the GTRW you can run as low as 40 PSI. Most of us add a little margin, but regardless of the OTT company position 60 PSI is WAY too much. In prepping for our last trip, when I check pressures, all 4 tires were between 46 and 48 PSI, so I made them all 46 and did not have to extend the air line from my compressor. The all had just the right amount of bulge at this pressure.
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4 hours ago, MAX Burner said:
I want 4 of these bad boys!
When I saw this yesterday, I was thinking a pair. But why not, it's only money! But then I have a garage full of hydraulic jacks in all shapes and sizes, multiple pairs of jack stands, tire ramps, so I better use that money on something else.
Art, what's in your garage? For Oliver owners that do not already have considerable automotive tools, a pair of these would likely allow for any maintenance work you would consider, working one side at a time. One is just not enough, except to change a flat. Nice combo tool!
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Already had a Dewalt cordless in my garage for car care, so I have it on our departure list. Chris uses a half-length broom for the center hallway and takes one minute with this around the edges. I have many of these 20V batteries required and an extra charger sits in the Oliver Attic. Mine is an older version: DEWALT 20V MAX Cordless Wet-Dry Vacuum, Tool Only (DCV580H) - Vacuum And Dust Collector Accessories - Amazon.com
I'm in the camp with @topgun2, can't "justify carrying yet another piece of equipment." The vac sits in a TV toolbox and there is no way I would mount something in the Oliver closet which has just enough space.
I might have other Dewalt tools with me, an impact or drill, and always have one or two of these for the campsite (I got everybody in the family one for Christmas, so they stop taking mine)! DEWALT 20V MAX LED Work Light, 100 Degree Pivoting Head, Up to 1000 Lumens of Brightness, Cordless (DCL050) - Amazon.com
And finally, the inside stays cleaner when the campsite is clean! I always bring this in the TV. I blow the common Arizona red-oxide dust off the hull after a dirt road excursion, and I blow the camping mat clean after our Charley (like what@MAX Burner calls "Knuckleheads") brings all the dirt, dust, burrs and weeds in from our surroundings! I have a larger AH battery or this unit, yet all Dewalt 20V are interchangeable: Amazon.com: Dewalt DCBL722BR 20V MAX XR Brushless Lithium-Ion Cordless Handheld Blower (Tool Only) (Renewed) : Patio, Lawn & Garden
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1 hour ago, Sparkinson said:
Hello everyone for Hull #725 aka Mahal. Scott & Nimfa here owners of a 2021 OLE2. We too are looking to move from our 4- 6 volt AGMs to Lithium batteries. We have the Xantrex Freedom 2000 inverter. I also have pretty much settled on Epoch batteries. However, still considering whether to go with two 300Ah or one 460ah. Or just start with one 300ah and see how that goes. Question: Reading throughout another Oliver forum I saw discussion about disconnecting the charge line from your TV to prevent damage to Lithium batteries or TV alternator. Am I missing something? Any positive guidance is greatly appreciated. TIA.
I forgot about the 300AH model, and it makes a whole lot of sense! Thanks for the reminder. Go with the two 300s is my take. Bottom line, 460AH is VERY good, 600AH is exceptional, and if you're our friend @rideadeuce who ditched the tray to go for 2x460, OMG 920AH is "priceless."
Both options fit in the battery tray. The smaller 300s at 58 LBS are easier to handle in length and weight vs. the 20+" 84 LB monster. At today's prices I calculate the 460 is $3.04/AH and the 300s are $3.66/AV, but you get 600AH! Right now, the is a MEMORIAL10 code, so two 300s are 1,978.20 plus tax and ship! Wow, I want these, but still have to wait for other mods. Last Black Friday they had an extra 15% OFF sale. You could start with just one, but that is barely more usable AH than what you already have.
As far as wiring @topgun2 is correct, but I would not pull a fuse in your tow vehicle (TV). You may want it when towing another trailer and forget it's disconnected. It is simple enough to pull the wire at the positive busbar. Here is a picture of mine, though your newer hull may be different. Should be a black wire, easy enough to test. When disconnected from both busbar and TV it should show open/no voltage. When connected to the TV you should read +12VDC. Test OFF and ON until you are certain. In my pic, it's the black wire on the left hanging. Later I taped it up and taped it to another insulated wire, so it sits open.
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3 hours ago, Derek B said:
In mid April purchased 2019 LE II, Hull 484. Looking forward to continue to learn as much as possible on these forums about the maintenance of our trailer and modifications everyone has done.
Welcome Derek, your hull is just a pup, and we love mods!
When you get a chance, fill out your signature so we all can better help you. Of interest in your hull # of course, tow vehicle, general location and anything else you want tagged at the end of your posts. Meet you on the road or rally!
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10 hours ago, rideadeuce said:
This is what I have but it is installed just above the attic in rear of TT.
Nothing wrong with that antenna. You should get signal in the cab. Is the AC blocking line-of-sight to the TV. Mount it a little taller? Strange.
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9 hours ago, rideandfly said:
Goodyear Endurance ST tire made in USA is a great quality trailer tire.
It's about the only trailer tire (ST) made in the USA! Put a set on my flatbed trailer 5 years ago. When I noticed the price today, I was like, What??? Just the cost of the today's economy. I'm going to have leave these on 10 years vs. 7! We only use it on slow roads around the county to haul dirt bikes, or an occasional trip to Lowes or Depot, low miles, keep them covered. Size on mine a little smaller. That would have been +$10 back then. Wow, by the time I need new ones they'll be $300 each!
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2 hours ago, SeaDawg said:
@jd1923, you can bring that chain saw in the fall, if you like. We'll run races with our big Husqvarna ranchers, when the pile of logs has had time to dry a bit. Stihl 026 is an awesome piece of equipment!
Thanks @SeaDawg, the 026 just hit a 30-year anniversary. New carb and fuel lines, 20" bar and a tune-up 2 years ago and she screams like new.
You probably know by now, calling "the guy" is a last resort for me. We had a mature American Elm at a home we had in N VA. A friend when leaving said, "Do you know your tree is splitting?" It was the kind of tree that had 2 main trunks and it was splitting right down the middle. It looked like the one side was going to break and fall. Of course, that was the side that would land on the dining room of our 2-story red brick colonial.
Oh man, a tree guy would cost a small fortune on this one! I did an engineering study of height, angle, mass, and thought and looked, and thought and looked... About 10 days later, I got up the courage.
We put two 24' extension ladders to get up as high as possible. Used double HD tow cables and tied the two trunks together at that height. I cut a wedge aiming down the driveway and away from the house. Then held my breath and cut the backside slowly. The trunk leaned and the cables drew tight. Then it pivoted at the cut and landed 180 from the house. Chris has the whole episode on video somewhere. It broke a couple landscape timbers is all. Got out the 100' tape and that trunk was 80+ ft! We spent the next 2 weekends cutting it up for firewood. I did have a 30HP Kubota then with a front-end loader to help!
Next time the buddy came over he asked, are you going to cut down the other side. I said, I got nothing but acreage that direction. It can fall when it needs to.
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Decent combo-unit @JBurton. It should save space and time!
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Whoa @SeaDawg! Sherry, it's a good thing that appears a light landing on the roof. Looks like the leaves and density of small branches cushioned the fall. We had an oak tree branch downed by lighting years ago. It took down a gutter, some roof damage and the rear of a Dodge Intrepid certainly needed a body shop. Hope it's just clean-up for you!
If I was in the neighborhood, I'd be over right away with my Stihl 026 and pole-pruner to help! 🙂
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I went with a more permanent install on the paper towel holder and our side shelf is attached with magnet discs VHB to the side (shelf sits bottom of the attic when using the beds).
The holder came with shaped tape to fit and after one outing it fell off. I cut 3M VHB 4950 to fit the small base and it's been holding even since.
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1 hour ago, rideadeuce said:
We use suction cups for everything. Flag poles, trash, paper towels, etc. Just have to have clean surface. Though, I like your solution. M
Very cool, lots of good ideas here! Given suction cups can hold your flag, blowing in the wind is a testament for holding strength. My bias comes from those phone holders and other suction cup attachments designed for the truck windshield. One came with my gauges display. I mounted mine permanently below the dash.
Once we get a shine on our exterior, it should work. Agree with Bill on the garbage can holder. I like the little one for interior use. Our interior fiberglass shines like new so should it maintain a good hold.
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On 5/27/2024 at 2:58 PM, DavePhelps said:
What I have used with success is this product:
https://marineformula.com/products/marine-formula-10oz-aerosol
...I would still do a reseal around the perimeter of your windows/fixtures as this is your first line of defense from water intrusion. It can be done well and look great. It just takes time, a good tape masking job, and an understanding of the ins and outs of the sealant you want to use...
I just "resealed" my fender flares! Strictly an aesthetic decision! I think it looks much better. But certainly not necessary. Dave
Just purchased two cans of the Debond and thanks again. Not bad with no tax added and only $5 S&H. Chris is the painter in our family, keen on detail. She has volunteered for this duty and was happy to hear of this product. Will report back on how it worked.
We're just doing the prep work, so that when I take it to a professional fiberglass detailer, I won't have to pay many shop-hours for prepping. I don't want them working around old caulk but instead getting right to the edges. I will also remove as much exterior trim as possible, like taillight bezels and doghouse handles, just to name a few, before dropping it off for detail work.
I expect the professional to use the 1200 grit sandpaper and do whatever is necessary to remove oxidation, and if I was to recaulk what's necessary, not for "asthetics" it would be as you suggested, by someone who knows "the ins and outs of the sealant." After cleaning up the cr@p, I'll spend my time on installing a new AC unit and other mechanical tasks per my core competencies.
BTW, the only mold/mildew on our Oliver, inside or out, is on the caulk outer surfaces! 🤣
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On 5/27/2024 at 4:54 AM, Patriot said:
I wonder why Oliver dropped to a smaller 15” wheel?
5-bolt 15" wheels are standard for the 7000 GTWR. Olivers were originally over-engineered. Costs saving perhaps. I have a dual-axle flatbed trailer, two 3500 LB axles with four 15" wheels and of course ST vs. LT tires. This is common, OTT did us better, but I guess not on new hulls.
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@rideadeuce, does your CradlePoint have an external antenna to broadcast Wi-Fi? If not, this is why you cannot receive Wi-Fi at your TV. The access point is a simple wired solution or a superior broadcast antenna.
The Parsec has 4 cellular antennas to bring in cell signals, SIM card in the router for your cellular carrier (AT&T, T-Mobile, Verizon). We went with a Business T-Mobile account since they recently added 5G in our area. It has a GPS antenna for location accuracy, and 2 Wi-Fi antennas to broadcast a good 100 FT full circle around the antenna. Chris can be online, at highspeed while I'm towing
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Not always having good luck with suction-cup attachments, I went this route: JONKEAN White Handheld Shower Head Holder with 2 Hanger Hooks, Strong Adhesive Shower Head Holder, Adjustable Shower Wand Holder Wall Mount, Bathroom Waterproof Shower Handle Holder No Drill Need - Amazon.com
The main plastic holder detaches and only a 1/4" thin clear piece left taped to the Oliver. During travel the holder fits nicely where the shower head is stored. I use it often!
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@rideadeuce just remembered something...
It's better if the access point is physically in your truck. You can run Ethernet from the attic to the basement, all the way front to the hitch area. Like many have run with their DC-to-DC cabling. Then another leg of Ethernet under the truck to the interior. Mount the access point behind the rear seat like I did my router install. It runs on 12VDC, so you will have to pull a run from the truck fuse panel, likely by the driver-side kick panel.
I saved this on my Wishlist, when I was planning to do the same job: Amazon.com: IP68 Waterproof RJ45 Coupler, Shielded Pure Copper Waterproof Ethernet Coupler, IP68 Waterproof Ethernet Outdoor LAN Cable Connector for Cat5, Cat5e/Cat6/Cat7/Cat8 Ethernet Cable (Black 2 Pack Female) : Electronics
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22 hours ago, rideadeuce said:
So unfortunately not good reception in the Tundra on the way down but I might get a second router to place in the front closet. If I had to do the cradlepoint modem and and antenna install originally I might have put it in the front closet so that the reception driving down the road would have been better. Maybe second router can work as an extender. Way down on the list at the moment. Speed at Gulf State Park is awesome though!
Mike, you don't want 2 routers, because then you have two logins, need two antennas, splitters are not good, and more issues. What you need is a Wi-Fi access point. Then you would run ethernet cable from your CradlePoint router to some forward cabinet position.
I have a Pepwave Access Point, included our bundle and did not use it. I thought I may need it distance to the trailer, but not so due to the power of the Parsec antenna. You could just get a better antenna. I can read Wi-Fi at 2.4GHz and 5GHz right now from my home office to my truck presently parked 100 FT away going through two walls. Parsec Husky Pro 7-in-1 Antenna – MobileMustHave.com
I was about to list this item on Craigs for sale! PM me if you're interested at my Oliver family discount, part still NIB: AP One AC Mini - Peplink Wireless 2.4ghz/5ghz A/B/G/N/AC Wireless Acce – MobileMustHave.com
As you can see a simple wired access point is a lot less $$$ than a high-end antenna. And both will have their own installation challenges to consider. Best wishes, JD
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Oh and BTW, the NHTSA should have Bulldog Manufacturing run a recall too! They mislabeled a 5000 LB coupler with a 7000 LB label!
Check page 4 of this thread. @Jason Foster asked for a better picture of the label, then I wrote a commentary re wrong labeling, Bulldog being at fault, not OTT.
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In the 5 pages of recall info OTT sent us, all it states is "Your unit must be inspected..." Everything else is about replacement and reimbursement.
Manufactures are responsible to communicate recalls. Consumers are not legally bound to reply. I have received over 100 recalls through the year and everybody here has too. I have never replied to Dodge, Ford, Toyota or any other. I will call for a service appointment when service or replacement is required, but if not I merely file the paperwork in my file for that vehicle.
I was about to do the same here, but since @Geronimo John found the NHTSA website and the "Customer Reply Card" I will reply as a courtesy to OTT. OTT will have hundreds that do not reply, for trailers sold, people thinking it's junk mail... The GOV will likely audit OTT later to see they have complied and their records of such responses.
I plan to print the from, write "SELF" as the inspecting BUSINESS, attach the photo I took months ago when this subject came up on our forum, and mail it Attn: Regina OTT - task completed from my point of view.
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@Imelda, yes @Geronimo John is certainly correct in running the microwave on a 2KW inverter. Our setup is similar to yours. I run our inverter day-and-night, for many needs. Use the microwave to reheat coffee in the morning, leftovers for lunch, etc. The TV is often running, laptop chargers, etc. Chris runs an electric tea kettle and a blow-dryer occasionally. Many of these are 1100-1500 watts each, so you can only run one at a time. We travel mainly in the sunny SW, so usually we're good on batteries. But if a cloudy day is in the forecast, I'll still run the microwave for 30 secs or more, but we will forgo the electric tea kettle for one on the LP stovetop.
You could run two such appliances with a 3KW inverter at the same time. But the main reason to upgrade to a 3KW Inverter is to run your AC unit. Some cool in the afternoons when boondocking is what we truly want, eventually. But again, it comes down to available battery capacity.
LI is not a straightforward battery swap, but not very difficult. There are charger settings to change and likely some new cabling. You'll want to add a shunt and perhaps a display or other options.
GJ also mentioned Battleborn 100AH batteries. They run a little about $900 each, call it $3,000 +/- taxed and shipped, for three units totaling 300AH (I believe 4 will not fit). There are better options. Why replace relatively new batteries, ours are 450AH lead-acid, 225AH usable, for 300AH LiFePO4? Not a large enough bump for the money.
I believe OTT uses Lithioncs brand in their Lithium Pro Package, which states 390AH. Though I could not find a 390AH Lithionics model shopping online. Many online sellers list their 320AH battery at a whopping $4,500, more like $5K OTD. Perhaps top-of-the-line but one of the most expensive LI batteries. There are better options out there today, unless $$$$ is not an issue.
I learned of Epoch batteries last fall on this forum. They are priced to sell with good reports. In fact, this model is soooo HOT at $1,399 it is often out-of-stock: 12V 460Ah Heated & Bluetooth LiFePO4 Battery - Epoch Essentials (epochbatteries.com) That's 460AH which would double your capacity in one battery. Some do prefer redundancy if one fails, but I would take that risk.
Mike @rideadeuce went with TWO 460AH Epoch batteries, amazing! A more expensive, but still competitively priced, model including "Victron Comms." I don't believe you need this feature as a Victron shunt would be enough for me. This model is $1,999 list and during last year Black Friday sale it was 15% off! I almost pulled the trigger. Maybe next year, LI prices have come down every year.
He went this route to fit two batteries side-by-side for 920AH total. The first model I mentioned I believe fits in the battery tray (you know measure twice, ...) but you can only fit one in the bay since it is wider (one would be enough for most campers). The Victron Comms model is narrower, yet taller, so Mike removed the sliding battery tray to accommodate. A crazy amount of stored power for a small TT, a creative plan and sound installation. Check it out: Victron MP2 with (2) Epoch 460ah batteries. DAY #1 Removal, rewiring, mounts, routing wires - Ollie Modifications - Oliver Owner Forums (olivertraveltrailers.com)
I suggest reading several more posts here, do other online research, give it a lot of thought, ask more questions and "patience grasshopper!" These batteries should last 10 years and if you add a 3KW inverter and perhaps other options (checkout the Victron product line) it becomes a large investment. You want to make the right choices, so that it works for your needs many years. Hope this helps! 🙂
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1 hour ago, DavePhelps said:
Talk of sealants always create quite a stir. Just go on any boating forum, look up sealants and stand back!!
What I have used with success is this product:
https://marineformula.com/products/marine-formula-10oz-aerosol
Dave
Ya think! So this will my last sealant related comment here.
Dave, thank you so much and I trust it on your recommendation. The label has all the right words. Re cost NP. What is it? About 30% of a shop-hour today for those who pay for repair work.
Should saves us hours in labor. Do you think one can is enough to work the exterior of the Oliver, 4 windows, wheel flares, around the furnace, etc? Maybe I should get two anyway. Thanks again! 😂
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4 hours ago, Imelda said:
I have had my Oliver 2 for 4 years now. I went cheap and got the 6V battery option (i do have the 2000W inverter and a zap connector for solar) Now I seem to be having problems holding a charge on these batteries using solar. I think they are shot so I think I need to upgrade to the lithium ion batteries to hold the charge. My Norcold refrigerator comes up with a C error code when the battery reading gets down to less than 10.5.
The Oliver university does not recommend running propane on the road and my vehicle does not seem to be able to charge the batteries.
Basically, your fridge is reporting your batteries are DEAD! Lead acid/AGM should never be much under 12V though I have been in the yellow a few times, never in the RED!
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2 hours ago, Cort said:
Not using furnace or stove... We have 20 gal I think. Let's hope the sensor is wrong. It might be - I just added the Mopeka sensors which don't appear to work when we're on a slope - they've read 15-18% and 100% - quite a bit of variation there! I'm taking the tank in to get it filled and will see where it's at and will report back 🙂
We have 30-gal tanks. Our Mopeka had some up/down variation, and I received a sensor position warning on/off. I just installed them and will look when we refill. Don't think the magnets stick well to the rounded bottom. You'd think their surface would be curved as well. I may use a little 3m VHB around the edges next time.
Now that it's parked level, it reads 15%. That's after 2 1/2 weeks out, fridge on LP all but about 20-24 hours while towing (say 180 hours ON at 60% boondocking), furnace on some 3 nights (not too cold), fire ring on for 2-3 hours on for ~10 nights, outdoor grill maybe 5 nights and daily use of indoor grill for coffee breakfast and 3-4 dinners. If it was just the fridge running, duration on LP should be in terms of weeks, certainly not a few days. Yes, check for leaks.
Houghton Retrofit Process & Questions
in Mechanical & Technical Tips
Posted
Hey @Geronimo John, I've been studying this thread, on and off over the last year and still need to read and learn more. An extremely quiet Low BTU model makes sense to me, and the Oliver does not require 13.5 BTU at all, given the interior cubic feet and insulated shell. I also need to role this into a lifepo4 upgrade. It will be a one or 2-year plan for me. It only makes sense to do these mods in unison.
I will NOT but another Dometic product for any purpose. I have also read, too many times, how those who bring their Oliver for Truma and custom fiberglass work are "very happy" with their purchase. We cannot afford the time, distance and cost of such, so that's not happenin' for us. Loved how our friend @MAX Burner wrote about your side-by-side comparison last summer.
I abhor motor noises, unless it's my Cummins pulling an incline, or a sports car tuned for performance at 7000+ RPM. We want QUIET and LOW fan speed and I believe the solution just might be a Houghton AC!
Ran across these components in research today and somehow, I want to make this work! I read here about some member(s) are wiring 12V batteries in series which would of course produce 24V but then I'm wondering how, do you step 24V down to 12VDV for all the standard RV lighting and other accessories. How about 48V to 12V? Is that possible? Do we have any true battery/solar experts here?
I'm going to spend weeks/months researching this, but is there a way to pair these components in an Oliver? I would truly love the read the opinion of all members who know the physics behind this! (maybe this should be a new thread?) Thank you GJ and OTT Forum members -
48V Air Conditioner for RV - 9.5K Low Profile AC Unit with Heat Pump and Remote Control Non-Ducted - RecPro
48V 100Ah LiFePO4 Battery - Heated & Bluetooth (epochbatteries.com)
No inverter required if these two components can somehow be combined in an Oliver. I'm generally more of a "here and now" sort, yet technology will amaze!