jd1923
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Posts posted by jd1923
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The failure on the rear curbside jack started with a clicking noise, the jack slipping not lifting and I could hear the motor slowing too. The worm-drive gear is connected to the motor, so the motor needed to be replaced. I figured I would rebuild both sides with new parts. Looking online it's near impossible to find these motors. I had the part number provided in the Barker VIP 3000 installation manual.
I called Barker to see if they could provide an online retailer. A few minutes on the phone with Donna at Barker and she informed me that they sell remanufactured motor heads for only $75! I found some online listings at $150 to over $200 for the motor alone (but TG they on back-order)!
I ordered two heads over the phone with shipping $185 total. Look at these beauties! Need a need front motor head? Call Barker! Three Allen screws, plug in power to the fuse and you're done in 5-min! Do you pay somebody to work RV service for you, like servicing jacks? You can replace the head for less money, new gears nicely greased, the switches are all new, shiny plastic casing - nice!
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Then plan was to leave on our camping trip at the start of this week. One failed stabilizer jack put our trip on hold. I will finalize all repairs today, so we're now planning to leave to SW Colorado in a couple days.
Good news is I have completely rebuilt, or replaced, all three (3) stabilizer jacks. Our 10-year-old hull now has new axles and full suspension and now all new jacks, besides all the new electrical systems, plumbing, etc. Our hull is now far better than a new one! 🤣
I will go through everything in the next few posts. Barker sells remanufactured jack heads for only $75 which I will explain fully, and many of you may want to consider this exceptional deal!
Step one is removal of the rear stabilizer jacks. Using a 3/4" deep socket and impact tool if available, remove the jack foot and the nuts from the two long carriage bolts. Notice the markings on the posts where they contact the hull and support bracket below.
I've seen postings here and on other forums about servicing the jacks. Never have I seen anything about servicing the posts. The post on the front jack, the standard Barker VIP 3000 jack cannot be serviced. The top on the jack is sealed, pressed into place.
However, the OTT custom Barker rear jacks can be serviced. There are 3 Allen keys to remove motor head of the jack. You want to do that first. There are 3 more 1/4-20 Allen screws that hold the top of the screw drive to the upper/outer post. Once the top of lower post is revealed there are two steel pucks that hold it into position (see pics). Clean all parts and grease with Mobilith 460:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CTJ97SV?ref=fed_asin_title-
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4 hours ago, Townesw said:
Some information online says that you can’t add the stuff I need but I’ve come across discussions in forums that say that you can add add stuff after production.
There are always some that say you can't do stuff when often you can. I would search the GM/Chevrolet and Duramax forums. Also, Dill tech support may know something.
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5 hours ago, Frank C said:
We sold our Oliver Elite II about 2 years ago to do more overseas travel, but I still lurk here now and then to see what's new in Ollie world. We do miss traveling with our Ollie though, and we are actually looking at getting back into camping again now, so I want to keep up with the latest changes that Oliver has made to the trailer.
I for one, miss your contributions to our Forum! 😂
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2 hours ago, mountainoliver said:
Ken, hopefully this picture was taken during work in process. I'm sure you must have closed off and sealed the opening around the drain pipe. It almost looks large enough for an Arizona Pack Rat! Don't let the cute picture fool you, they are monsters of collection and destruction! 🤣
Regardless, this opening is certainly large enough for field mice and many kinds of insects! I pushed in a large bead of dum-dum (butyl) around mine.
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3 hours ago, Townesw said:
I don’t want a system that uses externally mounted sensors on the valve stems.
I fully agree with your statement. I'm also interested in these but have no experience.
Bluetooth, do they have an app to read tire PSI and temps?
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17 hours ago, Skipster said:
I had called Zantac support and I will call back tomorrow . They told me 3 year warranty. Our Ollie hull number 822 is going on 4 years old. A new inverter is 1800$ plus labor. Hope Xantrex will help.
I'm thinking a good tech at Xantrex should get you up and running...
But, if it turns out you need to replace the unit and want to swap with the same model, I would do this. This eBay Seller with decent feedback is an RV parts & salvage co, this item is open box, "guaranteed to work."
https://www.ebay.com/itm/267389119450?_skw=xantrex+freedom+xc+pro
The labor is simple, since the model is identical. Just disconnect your shore power and batteries, and solar switch OFF. Then swap wires from your original unit to the new one. $650 plus tax vs. $1,800 plus tax and labor! 🤣
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On 9/27/2025 at 11:52 AM, CRM said:
Just looked at the receipt for my last order and they charged me $7 for shipping.
We’re staying with the OEM Scandvik faucet, at least for some time.
This company is most reasonable for replacement parts! 🤣
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3 hours ago, Skipster said:
A new inverter is 1800$ plus labor. Hope Xantrax will help.
Yes, call them!
I purchased a brand new 3KW Victron Multiplus II for $1,100. Don’t spend this money on a 2KW Xantrex! Your model used in working condition on eBay is likely about $300.
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17 hours ago, Ronbrink said:
I suggest you move your inquiry to the ‘General Discussion’ section of this forum for better chance of viewing
Yes, and given a water leak, they ask for help, and it’s another few days…
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Just “Oliver!” Sometimes we’ll say it the way Eva Gabor did in Green Acres!
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4 minutes ago, Skipster said:
I tested and do have 12v power on either side of the big breaker. I also tested(picture) inside zantrex panel and have power there as well.
I read in your other post that unplugging and plugging the inverter makes a noise. This and your test shows you have power to the inverter. The noise means it’s doing something internal.
Time to get in the phone with Xantrex Tech Support. You have power in but nothing out. They will have tests for you to do and next steps. Your issue must be the inverter is not powered on or something else internal to the inverter.
Good work so far! Keep us posted.
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10 hours ago, ADKCamper said:
I looked once for solid SS lug nuts, but could not find any in an appropriate configuration. Maybe I’ll give up on that and find some solid chromed steel ones…
Stainless Steel (SS) lug nuts are limited. I've never seen them used for custom wheels.
I'm not sure whether our wheels require 'acorn' or 'acorn bulge' shaped lugs. Thinking they are 1/2" x 20 and I would also measure the length of the stud extending beyond the wheel before ordering. Does anybody have these specs?
Given verification of measurements, something like this may work. They're expensive by the time you buy 6 sets (24 pcs). McGard is a good brand I've used before. These are labeled "Made in USA" so don't buy a cheap bulk set that are made in China instead!
https://www.amazon.com/McGard-64010-Chrome-Bulge-Style/dp/B000COMX9K/?th=1
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6 hours ago, Boudicca908 said:
The socket gets stuck — no problem getting it ON, no problem turning the wrench (it’s long handled). And I had help obtaining the correct socket size.
Use a 12-point socket vs. the 6-point which is generally recommended for automotive work. The 12-point will remove easier.
It is about the stainless-wrapped lugs. I’ll replace ours with solid chromed steel lugs someday.
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To each their own... 🤣
Yeah, yank it out. The OEM model has absolutely no value! 😎
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My replies are and will be added to the other thread, and there are more relevant pics there...
I was hoping this would have been corrected...
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6 hours ago, Skipster said:
I have a testing 12v light stick. but the problem is I do not know where to put the tester or the light 12v tester....
Having these pictures is great! It may make all the difference in us helping you.
Your test light should have an alligator clip on one end, clip it to the negative bus which is the one you have pictured 3 times with all yellow wires. You then want to touch both sides of the SMP 200A breaker shown in your 4th picture. I’m pretty sure this is the breaker between your batteries and inverter.
If the breaker is closed (on) and in working order, there should be power on both terminals (test light ON). If you have power on the battery side and not on the other, you need a new breaker and you’ve found your issue.
Let us know on this test for next steps if necessary.
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4 hours ago, topgun2 said:
Bill
@Skipster has two threads going on the same subject.
There’s more viable info on the other thread, albeit it’s in the wrong forum folder.
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2 hours ago, Skipster said:
should be something simple.
Are all your 12V circuits working? e.g. lights, stabilizer jacks, etc.
Attach some pictures here, of the inverter, inverter panel or on/off switch, wiring into the inverter and devices near the inverter.
Do you have a multimeter, or test light?
@ADKCamper gave you a good checklist for testing.
The gurus are here. Post pictures and get a meter or simple test light at an auto parts store.
It is likely simple..
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1 hour ago, Chris and Lisa said:
We have water leaking out of the bilge through the drain holes when the water pump is on and the line is under pressure. My husband would like to access the water line under the shower. How is this done.
When your Oliver is perfectly level, which side is the water leaking from?
"Under the shower?" Do you mean in the wet bath? The water lines are in the bathroom vanity. The front cover with the opening and towel bars must be removed. Outdoor shower? Access the water lines under the streetside bed.
Ours was leaking once when I left the outdoor shower faucets on. Only the valve on the shower head was holding the water. Check first that these faucets are OFF.
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@CRM I ordered the $10 aerator and that was my total! 😂 They may add actual shipping cost to that later since they had a note about charging only actual costs.
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Cool, thank you @mossemi, @CRM and @Tom and Doreen!
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I searched, but not sure of the correct keywords... I remember @SeaDawg posting re this company a couple years ago. What make is this OEM shower head? The plastic end in ours has a pin hole in it. Thank you!
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I'll be posting my stabilizer jack rebuild thread soon, a sneak peak here.
This new Dicor butyl is top-shelf! It stays where you place it and fills the cracks! 🤣
Barker VIP3000 Stabilizer Jack Slipping
in Mechanical & Technical Tips
Posted
While I was online searching for VIP 3000 motors, I ran across an eBay auction. The listing was for a new-in-box VIP 3000 30826 (in WHITE)! Some of you know, I do have good luck in finding deals when it comes to my projects! 🤣
The eBay auction was for $250 plus tax and shipping but it also had the "Make an Offer" option. I offered $200 and he took it. Was $258.60 OTD? These are $500+ retail!