jd1923
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Posts posted by jd1923
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5 hours ago, rideadeuce said:
Installed these today game changer. Simple connection to Victron system...
Awesome Mike! I don't have Victron Comms or the BMV712, just a few sensors here and there. This is my Control Dashboard. 🤣
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Great price indeed! Do that again in a heartbeat! Our Oliver was delivered used with 80 PSI! I dropped immediately to 60, not knowing our weight. Then lower after reading more info here and weighing the Oliver and TV.
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17 minutes ago, Galway Girl said:
We just picked a mid point on the chart as a starting point.
What would you run them at?
I may lower the pressure on the next run, but expect some extra heating effects on the tires at that lower psi.
Look at your table above, at 45 PSI the tire holds 1790 LBS x 4 = 7,160 LBS. Our Oliver ready to camp under 6600 LBS, so we could be at 40 PSI, but since that is the lowest number on the chart, I bump it up to 45 PSI. Ran my tires at 46 last time I checked since they were all just a hair above that number. @John E Davies ran his Mouse at 42 PSI for years which you can see in his posts.
If you have upgraded to 5200 LB axles and higher rated leaf springs and carry over 8000 LBS total, then 55 PSI would be the right number. The right pressure for the load should not create excessive heat.
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4 hours ago, gbergh said:
The "C" designates Metric. There is no LT in front of the tire size numbers.
Actually, the number 225 in 225/75R16 is metric, meaning 225 mm. The 75 means the profile (height) is 75% of the width on a 16" rim. Standard sizes are all in inches and are today less common ever since Michelin came to the US in the 80s.
With some research I found out that Michelin has created a new tire category. This C tire (Commercial) is more expensive than their LT, has a higher load rating (not needed for the EII 7000 GTWR) and is not snow rated (also not necessary for a trailer). Question, is it worth $54 plus tax more per tire? No, the LT model on our Oliver is fine for almost $240 less.
Turns out Michelin has created a new tire category; I had not seen before. The following copied from Tyre markings explained: How to read a tyre? | MICHELIN
- P: Passenger Car
- LT: Light Truck
- C : Van commercial tyre
- XL, HL or Reinforced : Tyres with a higher load capacity...
- T: Temporary (spare wheels)
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8 hours ago, Galway Girl said:
Michelin Agilis Cross Climate - LT225/75 R16 Load Range E1 Black Sidewalls
These same tires were mounted by a prior owner 3 years ago on ours. They are a commercial grade Michelin and don't look like they have worn one bit on ours.
6 hours ago, gbergh said:MICHELIN AGILIS CROSSCLIMATE - 225/75R16 C
Is there a LT missing in from of this tire size? Do they make this brand in passenger car tires? I see the 'C' likely meaning Load C tires with is a LT load rating.
You do not want P225/75R16 tires, but given these are LT225/... tires Load C is just fine for 7000 GTWR on 4 tires, and would produce a softer ride than Load Range E, less bounce on interior storage, etc. Load C LT tires have 1-2 less ply and are often marked with 54 PSI max vs. the 80 PSI of load E. 54 PSI MAX is more than enough as for 7000 GTWR, 45 PSI is the correct PSI (check the load table above).
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We did an Oliver trip in March to meet up with Chris' sister. They are snowbirds from Minnesota and often stay at a RV Resort in Casa Grande. We played Pickleball one day at the public courts and met a great couple from Ruidoso NM. They introduced us to the Canadian game called "Crokinole!" (BTW, they invited us to camp on their ranch and hope to do so on the way to the Oct. Texas Rally.)
Chris bought a cheap Amazon version for my birthday in April. It fell apart quickly so it went back. So now for her birthday, I had to get the original Tracey Board: Crokinole Boards & Crokinole Accessories Canada | Buy Online (traceyboards.com)
Not nearly the Oliver I brought home a year ago! Even though, the whole family had a lot of fun playing this weekend (strong competitors)! Where can I find place to stow this for Oliver travel? It's a beast at 30" round and about 20 lbs. It may have to stay home. Any Crokinole players out there! 😂
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I did a side-by-side comparison of the specs. First the 9.5K (w heat pump option) vs. the 13.5K, In the last columns I compared the 15K with the "condensate pump." This unit may connect to the OTT condensate plumbing and I wonder if this would alleviate the humidity issue.
At first glance the 9.5K unit is 2/3rds the weight and much smaller. The 13.5K is 5" longer and 11" wider but with the fan on LOW is the quietest at 47 dB and on high pushes 318 CFM some 35% more air flow than the 9.5K model!
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7 hours ago, CRM said:
In my experience, 9.2k has been more than enough. Haven't been at a high altitude or in temps much over 100 degrees with our LE2 yet but I don't see how it wouldn't be enough...
Yesterday high was 97 in Prescott, today milder and although this is more like August temps, we sat on our deck and do so every evening. When 90+ is the daytime high, we will be in the 70's by dinner time, sitting on our deck that gets the evening shade.
We lived in the Austin burbs for 9 years. If midday in the summer, it Could be 107 and dry, or 93 and humid if the winds were coming from the gulf. Had a tennis coach once say, who was brought up in the country between H-town and Corpus, for 5 months it's Swamp-A$$! His words. We always remembered this coach for this and many reasons. That would be your hood @Ronbrink and not much different from your location @CRM, both coastal gulf swamp-a$$ locations.
Yes, everything is bigger in Texas! Loved our time there. We also spent 4 years in S FLA in the WPB area, and if it was possible, we would have preferred being closer to Ft Myers, or miles +/- from there on the gulf coast. Our country has so many great spots to visit, just travel at the right time of year.
No swamp-a$$ out here. AC units run more efficiently in dry air. Why are we home for 4 months of the summer, every year, while y'all are pulling you Olivers out of storage and traveling, some of it climate painful!?
If say today, tomorrow, or over the next 3 months, we venture off the mountain to go ANYWHERE, in ANY direction, we drop 3000 FT elevation and climb +20F in the first hour. Our ONLY future summer trip would be to leave in May to get to ID, WY, MN, ND, Canada or en route to Alaska, before it gets too hot.
We're home this summer, doing M&R on our newly purchased Oliver and will do a local trip in September, followed by our travel to the 2024 Oliver Texas Rally. Hope to meet you Ron and CRM if you venture the longer trip. We'll see some of you, hopefully more of you, and next thing you know it will be time! 😂
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2 hours ago, rideadeuce said:
I know you had shown some interest in the EPOCH batteries. This link has some helpful insight to their Pros and Cons...
Thanks for the article link. It went back to the Victron SmartShunt, gotta love it! Change your charge settings to 13.9 and 13.4 as stated. This makes total sense yet blows many LiFePO4 manufacturer's recommendations (grain of salt).
Many people leave maintenance chargers on 24x7, not a good idea IMHO. I connect a charger only when needed, and I keep shore power off unless we need to run AC. I'll trust our old-school Blue Sky SC, never see voltage over 14V with it on alone. Don't trust RV shore power/120V chargers or inverter/chargers either when connected fulltime and more so for storage. Just don't do it.
Recently I'm more interested in Epoch without the Victron Comms. Was thinking of two of these 300AH batteries to start and perhaps a 3rd or 4th later with some installation wizardry (that is a word, right GJ?). There is room in the bay for a 3rd with a tray mod and maybe room in the basement for another one to two! This could add up to 900AH, 1200AH, OMG 1500AH! ~🤣
Too bad the 2x 460AH Epochs w/o Victron Comms will not fit no matter what you do. 600AH at 80% = 480AH (conservative estimate with a 20% safety factor) is more than 2x what I have today in 450AH LA at 50% = 225AH (2.13 more available AH).
I believe you made the right choice Mike. Who has more LiFePO4 AHs than you in an Oliver (nobody)! If they run another Black Friday sale at an additional 15% off, you can source 600AH OTD under $2,000, a nice number for a LiFePO4 upgrade and I have all the 4/1 cable, lugs and tools I need. I see these in my future, look for my upgrade TBD: 12V 300Ah Heated & Bluetooth LiFePO4 Battery - Epoch Essentials (epochbatteries.com)
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2 hours ago, rideadeuce said:
I wonder if the Epoc BMS which is controlling charging may be limited charging? 2016 Tundra's 150 amp alternator may be getting tired? Mike
The BMS can limit, but note your MPPT solar charger is offering 33A, that's 48A total if I'm reading this right. 150A on the truck alternator is good number given it is in good condition, many are rated lower.
Try running your test again, with your batteries needing charge (<80% SOC) and your MPPT solar charger turned off. This will show what the Tundra alternator and DC-to-DC is capable.
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2 hours ago, CRM said:... Not interested in modding a brand new Houghton, and also, not interested in a Truma since I don't want to have to have the custom fiberglass work done to accommodate it...
I agree in being against custom fiberglass work, and with Truma you must purchase and install through their dealers only, no DIY units or replacement parts available in the aftermarket.
Re Houghton, it appears the relay install is quite simple, instructions on this forum. It could be easily reversed if you had to return the AC unit for warranty replacement. I would work this wiring on the workbench and then install. Being careful, perhaps an hour of work. We have little in humidity concerns out west, but I would install the relay just so most of the night when the temps drop considerably in the mountains the fan stays OFF!
My main goal is hush... being very quiet... I have not heard another product recommendation in this regard. Still wondering if their 9.8K BTU is feasible on an Elite II. They say it covers 400 SF which is double the E2 footprint. It is much cheaper, especially without the heat pump and we'll just run the furnace when heat is needed. The smaller unit would also pull less amps on the batteries and would be easier on a 2KW inverter.
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4 hours ago, Townesw said:
@jd1923 What is the stuff attached to the Simpson Strong Tie? Have you replaced the quarter turn valves with solenoids?
Yes Bill, they are actually motorized ball valves. Here is the upgrade thread:
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@rideadeuce Mike, I'm wondering re your extra solar panel.
What make/model? Do you recommend? It does look HD/thick, like a lighter/thinner panel might be enough at that narrow width. Please let me know.I'd like to add some solar eventually, mounted on an angle, in that area of the roof. Did you just tie them into the junction box under the OTT installed panels?
I know they make the make connectors like these for that purpose. Thanks
1 Pair, Solar Connectors T Branch Parallel Adapter Cable, 1 Pair 10awg Waterproof Solar 1 To 2 Solar Panel Connectors Wire Plug Tool Kit For Solar Panel (1*m/ff+1*f/mm),temu -
1 hour ago, GlacierGirl said:
And jd923… First of all, how does one highlight a forum name on here like you and GJ did? Secondly, thanks so much for the link to that thread. Installing a new port - or, actually wiring a new port - would be beyond my expertise, but surely an rv place could do it. Thanks!
@SeaDawg answered the first part. Purchase the portable solar you want first and see what terminal it needs. Buy the required terminal/wiring kit too. You can see in the other post; it takes 4 screws and to splice/crimp the two wires.
Any mobile mechanic, somebody on Angie's list or Craigs would be happy to come to your parked Oliver and do the job in less than an hour. They only need to know how to use a voltmeter to get the +Red and -Black wiring straight. RV service shops are a pain and good luck getting an appointment during summer. This way you don't even need to hitch up or drive down the road!
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On 5/10/2024 at 12:40 PM, Wayfinder said:
I'm looking forward to replacing the outdoor shower, but it will have to wait until I get to the rally. Part just arrived.
Upon inspection, mine has a light surface crack just where yours is located. Surface only, no leaks, so hope it stays put. I did some work to keep the shower hose from getting caught on the PEX or elsewhere. With parts on hand, I wrapped automotive plastic loom over the PEX and a large section of foam under the plumbing. It it very difficult to get your arms back there to fix the wire ties.
I pulled it out and back in 5-6 times and got the full length out each time smoothly. Hoping I'm good now and the hose will not get caught anymore.
Chris, have you had time to get your new shower kit installed?
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@Townesw it's strange how from hull #113 to #313 there is such a difference! The crank on my rear stabilizer jacks (both sides) are 2-3" from the edge.
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@GlacierGirl also not sure what comes with the Renogy or what wiring it requires. Check this mod to start: SAE solar plug upgrade - Ollie Modifications - Oliver Owner Forums (olivertraveltrailers.com)
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8 hours ago, topgun2 said:
Looks to me that if you go to their website - https://www.peakmtncamps.com/ - and read after...
NO comparison, what a PoS! I don't even need to review the specs as this flat-front shell has paneling like the cheap awning I built 20 years ago, for a few hundred bucks, attached to a backyard shed.
We would be embarrassed to tow this behind our vintage TV that is prettier and has more class (looks great pulling an Oliver). Should be $40K list vs. $100K of OTT value, but I imagine they are asking twice that. Sorry, but you asked, I answered. And sorry, as I'm not often as polite as some of our Oliver friends! 🤣
Suggestion: buy a used Oliver instead, as we could not afford a new one either. It will hold its value and serve you well.
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No time for more design or installation changes, Maggie & Bryan are leaving on a 2nd go on a life trip to Alaska in just 3 days. Godspeed and God bless you, your family, and your upcoming travels! We're here, stand-by to help virtually always.
If your battery bank charges up to 12.8V +/- just stop worrying about this. Go enjoy your travels. I can't wait to see your travel posts, my new friend.
Yes, it would have been better to but a pair or four, but worse case you can simply buy lead acid batteries at any store along the way, and they may be cheaper given the exchange rate today in CAD$. Have a wonderful trip!
On my list is AK and ND, add ME and these are the only 3 states in the continental US I have not yet traveled. See you one day soon! 😂
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7 hours ago, Geronimo John said:
... is there a way to absolutely ensure that all three battery heaters are OFF?
If the engineering behind the Lithionics product would allow ANY current to the heater when temps are above freezing or say above 35+ degrees Fahrenheit, the heater should be disconnected. This very well could be the cause of 3% daily loss. @Geronimo John hit this on the nail!
Oh, and if you are losing 3% daily and the Lithionics app shows no negative current draw, the app is not reading correctly. Loss of SOC can only occur with -Amps over a period of time. Love my $40 shunt, pure and simple, mounted to the negative terminal of my battery bank ALWAYS shows -A when batteries are discharging, and +A the next morning in the Arizona sun!
You can disconnect the ground and not worry about the cause (easy solution, takes just 5 min) or strip the overhead out of these batteries. If they were mine, I would first bypass the heaters, and if that did not solve the problem, I would disconnect their BMS and monitor my batteries the old-fashioned way, with system shunt or a simple voltmeter. 😂
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5 minutes ago, topgun2 said:
Why not simply remove the main negative battery cable from the batteries and see what happens? Bill
@Dave and Kimberly This is the old-school method for storage. I've done this alone for 40+ years on anything automotive that will sit a few months, for charge loss and safety reasons. It appears you have three 12V LI batteries wired in parallel. The grounds between the batteries can remain as wired. The cable providing ground back to the interior must be disconnected. Keep in mind that in this state, with ground disconnected, the batteries cannot provide power nor be charged. So, get them fully charged first.
If you prefer, you can install a switch at the batteries, in line with the cable described above, or where that main ground cable comes into the interior prior to any connection to negative busbar or device (inverter, 12v panel, etc). It's relatively easy at the battery location. Besides the switch you would need a shorty cable or short copper bar to connect the switch to the battery post.
I would want to figure out cause of the constant current draw. Given you have an Amp reading on your Lithionics App, I would do as you wrote "1) Pull each one of the 12 volt fuses from the panel under dinette..." Pull each 12V fuse one at a time looking for a change in amp reading that reads less negative. Of course, you must have shore power disconnected and the solar feed switched off too.
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@SNY SD UP I’d say you’re done. Looks like all 4 batteries are sitting flat. You already made the cable change. Right is OK. 🙂
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37 minutes ago, Skipster said:
seems to me the quick connect ports on the trailer are pretty useless since I can not connect the grill. Lots of work and hassle to bypass the trailer regulator.
Very useful for us! I have a quick-connect 12 ft LP line to a quick-connect T. Then we connect our Weber Q grill (maybe buy a proper grill?) and this fire-ring. Removed regulators on both. Don't really need a YouTube if you have a good local hardware store to find the right brass fittings. Very happy not to carry an extra LP tank for outdoor use.
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Our Anniversary night ended well. After a few hours watching a local P-ball tournament, and a little rest at home, we went to Papa's Italian in Prescott. It was a great weekend! Her birthday is still to come this Friday. Certainly cannot afford another Oliver, Lol!
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Tire Recommendation?
in Mechanical & Technical Tips
Posted
Honestly, you cannot have enough pressure, meaning load carrying capacity in a second axle/tire to cover the GTWR load upon tire failure (unless you want 80 PSI, the reason why legal depts of RV manufactures suggest this crazy number on your trailer sticker). Either you have muscle memory from 30-40 years or more driving old trucks and towing dozens of cargo and flatbed trailers, or you need to rely on a TPMS (check it often).
Yes, redundancy is one of the key factors in mitigating risk. For this reason, the idea of an Elite I (a single axle trailer) is not for me. Having owned horse trailers, farm stock trailers, car haulers, cargo and flatbed trailers, certainly a dozen trailers over a lifetime, and by my choice they are ALL dual-axle trailers.
I've had blowouts on desert roads at 70 MPH. The tire tread rips the fender off a car-hauler. I realize it in milliseconds and (btw don't hit the brakes) coast nicely to the shoulder.
Run you tire pressure per the load charts and add 5 PSI for a safety of margin. Additional PSI will cause your belongings to suffer, cause your leaf springs to failure (see the threads here) and just more bad stuff! Trust me (and many others here with considerable lifetime experience).