jd1923
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Posts
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Posts posted by jd1923
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6 hours ago, rideadeuce said:
The VHB metal discs are permanently applied, but the magnetic rubberized feet on the mount make it removable for land mount or cleaning/waxing.
So, if you were to land mount, for example when trees are over the Oliver, do you have an additional long cable, external terminal and a stand for it? Would be a pain to remove the rooftop cable.
Another Q: what is the model of your thin solar panel? Link? Is it connected at the junction box for the stock panels? I could envision two of these left and right angled some to better catch the winter sun.
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I asked this question on a mod thread, "Does anybody know a good fill product for screw holes in fiberglass?" This is an important subject, so I started a new discussion. And thank you @aaronorange for suggesting Marine-Tex Epoxy for this purpose. MARINE-TEX® EPOXY PUTTY - ITW Performance Polymers
I have witnessed at least a dozen threads here where members have replaced shore power or solar terminals, and many other items screw-mounted where the screws have cracked the fiberglass. Many have just remounted as-is or used larger screws, into the cracked hole. If the screw hole is cracked, a proper repair would include filling and redrilling the hole.
Our hull needs so many fiberglass repairs that I will work this summer. With all of my automotive experience, "autobody" has never been a strength. Never owned or repaired a fiberglass boat either. I have two 3/8" holes in the interior hole from removing the original TV mount. There is a small hole in the front made by a stone and a blemish behind the AC which looks like somebody banged it with a tool. I will remove the Dish Satellite and OMG the amount of damage OTT created in installing the dish is crazy.
I like the Marine-Tex suggestion as I have learned that ITW also produces Permatex, a trusted product line that I have used in automotive work for 3-4 decades. I would also like to learn from your experiences and more about "how-to?" Besides suggested products, what are best practices in fiberglass repair work. Thank you for any advice you can provide!
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1 hour ago, rich.dev said:
Very nice! Is the mount 3M VHB permanently mounted to the roof and the dish is removable?
VHB to the mount is pretty much permanent. @rideadeuce has used the term "semi-permanent" here and his earlier install thread. Why not permanent? To remove the dish, you have to climb up there, disconnect the cable and snap it off the stand. I'm not getting up on the roof of our Oliver except for installation, unless I really have to!
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1 hour ago, ScubaRx said:
There a tons on the Oliver Trailer Owners FB page, posted by dozens of owners.
Never been a fan of FB, and after years Chris closed her account.
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37 minutes ago, Patriot said:
I knew it was only a matter of time….
70 years later it’s another Chrysler Town & Country! 🤣
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@rideadeuce Mike, thanks for this. I might be going crazy. I could swear I wrote a comment on this Monday night after you posted and it's not here! Must have not clicked the Submit button.
Thank you for finding the correct part, as you stated, sourcing can be the difficult front work of the job. Made in USA and reasonable, nice! Question is, what was your reason for replacing the vent? For $16, I might replace mine just to remove the ugly of the old vent and Dicor on top of Dicor mess. I'm working this summer on removing all old Dicor and caulk so someday she will be ready to apply a decent shine. Your installation is clean, nice work as always. 😂
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1 hour ago, MAX Burner said:
FYI: We observed our 2nd and 3rd Cyber Trucks yesterday headed eastbound on I-20 in LA -- again, on the back of a flat bed. Will report our first sighting of a Cyber under its own power whenever it occurs... HA!
Likely ran out of juice, just a few miles down the road. 🤣
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5 hours ago, Geronimo John said:
It's the screws that cause cracking, not the drilling of holes when properly done. In this case, the holes were in play and the fixture was set up with holes. So, Mike pretty much needed to use the holes. However, use of SS bolts, nylock nuts and washers on the inside would likely reduce further cracking.
Agreed, the use of wood screws has cracked the fiberglass. It's very difficult with fiberglass to apply the right amount of torque to fasten and not overtighten.
I would want to fill these cracked holes, to redrill cleanly or to use VHB afterwards depending. Does anybody know a good fill product for screw holes in fiberglass? Some kind of epoxy that plays well with fiberglass.
@rideandfly's install is beautiful! OTT should consider this approach. However, there are times in installation work, where you do not have access to the back side to thread a nut.
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24 minutes ago, rideadeuce said:
I have to agree most things can be attached with proper prep using VHB tape, especially on fiberglass, it is a perfect medium for VHB tape. I was actually going to use it to attach the rain guard on the new Maxx-Air fan but decided not to use the guard at all. My two 90 watt panels I installed up top are held in place by VHB only...
I purchased the upgraded fan when a post came up last year. I will install it this summer with VHB with no rain guard as well. I learned the benefits of VHB in 2019 when installing a complete solar/inverter system in our Bigfoot Class-C. I doubled the solar mounts to be certain of strength (likely not necessary).
Most roof-top items in the pic were installed by me, solar, new AC, Dish, 2 fantastic fans (old ones had manual cranks) and new fridge vent cap (everything white in color). I did the Dish first and regrettably used screws on that install.
Each solar mount has 1x3" VHB 4950 and not one screw. The bigfoot has a fiberglass roof too and don't gunk up your install thinking you need Dicor on top for absolutely no reason, yuck hate the stuff. VHB is UV and weather resistant and remember there are no hole in the fiberglass, no way to leak rainwater. Five years later, the new owner has no complaints and I believe 3M states VHB has an expected 20-year life.
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On 5/18/2024 at 12:46 PM, rideadeuce said:
When I see pics like this, it's such a shame. OTT should REALLY start using adhesives or VHB tape on so many parts attached the fiberglass hulls, both inner and outer. Look at the cracking at EVERY hole. There is a little stress on this terminal when plugging and unplugging, and it's not weight bearing.
Same goes for interior switch panels and truly dozens of items. We would be able to replace parts and upgrade without concern of screw hole alignment. Many of you fear drilling into your Olivers. OTT should have more concern re this matter.
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6 minutes ago, Jim and Frances said:
Frances and I plan to be there...Site 61...Hull #927, LE-II, name is Lucy. Look forward to meeting everyone in person!! (Just looking at pics from the Guntersville Rally happening got us excited!)
Looking forward to meeting you! Sites 61 and 71 are back-to-back.
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13 hours ago, Galway Girl said:
A simple way to connect the new DC charging lead, using a standard (larger) lug, would be to merely double up on the battery lead on the far right in this picture. There are enough threads on the bolt, and you have a direct connection without going through the bus and any resistance it may cause.
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2 hours ago, bugeyedriver said:
Bosker and I will have The Wonder Egg, (Elite Hull #14), on Site 90, from Oct 20-24. We look forward to meeting more Oliver owners!
Donna & Scott, thanks for organizing this.
Chris & John, hull #113 (un-named) will be joining you on site #71, also arriving a day early. 😂
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When I was first thinking about adding one of these, I assumed I needed an isolated converter to remove electrical interference between electronics in the TV (ECM, sensors, radio) and TT (solar charger, perhaps other).
This article recommends the non-isolated merely based on cost. It does not address nor give example of possible interference. Isolated vs non Isolated DC to DC Charger - Which one to get (cleversolarpower.com)
Then I installed a Pepwave router in the TV. I connected it directly to the TV battery. At first temporarily, thinking if there was interference with the router and ECM, I would just run the router when camped and eventually add an isolated AGM battery in the truck bed. I have not needed to do so. The TV with router on driving down the road has not shown any bleep of issue. We have received clean 5G while driving down the highway and no issue in the TV. BTW, I also have an Edge Juice w/ Attitude installed which is a supplemental ECM, with multiple sensors, gauges etc. and no interference between the Juice and Pepwave, of course all sharing the same TV ground
The more I think about it, while towing/charging most everything is off in the TT (except solar charger), so what kind of interference could there be? Can anybody provide example(s) of probable relevant interference? If not, the Victron 50A non-isolated charger should be just fine, just as @MAX Burner's installation has proved.
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Don't take me too seriously, just poured a cup myself! 🤣
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You got me on this one. I did not fully consider this line, "I turned it to fan mode and the growl goes away." So yes, in this case I agree with @CRM that it must be compressor related.
If this exclusive product, just one year old can "jump up off the mounts" Truma as a product line has way too many issues. Truma Water Heat Fire in the Hole - Mechanical & Technical Tips - Oliver Owner Forums (olivertraveltrailers.com) and there are more complaints.
So never mind what I wrote about changing fan speeds, turning off-n-on, etc. That will not work. Perhaps you need to get that compressor back on its mounts, whatever that entails. Very sorry this is happening to you when you have immediate travel plans.
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I'm with you, thank you. You can't get me to do anything but hookup the hose at the dump station! 🤣 Separate liquids from solids and more cr@p, NOT! (pun intended)
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2 minutes ago, rich.dev said:
Lol thanks, didn’t know there’s a 2500 and 2500HD, I have the 2500HD with 3600lb payload. I upgraded from a 2016 VW Touareg TDI, the VW towed like a champ but payload is only 1200lb.
Yes 3600 LB payload is certainly HD! The 2003 Ram 2500 I drove for years had 9000 GVRW and it weighed 7200 LBS empty, so half the payload. Very nice truck. You should just throw the Ollie in back!
Small world, we owned a 2014 Passat TDI. Never towed with it, but loaded full we got 47 MPG highway when we moved from TX to S FL. We were moving, so Chris was driving that, and I was pulling an 18' cargo trailer with our Ram. I had literally every SF of the car packed. Loved that car, drove it hard for 4 years. Got 35 MPG commuting and I drove it heavy-footed to make time. VW bought it back in the TDI settlement, writing us a check for the amount we paid for it, taxed and titled.
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39 minutes ago, rich.dev said:
Like @jd1923 said, the truck model does not matter, and if you have a F150 it probably has a 2" hitch receiver...
Yes, I know I don't need a WDH with the 2500 but I'm thinking I have it so why not use it!
I use ours too. Mines an older 2500, not like the $100K super duty diesels some have. There is a difference. There is the 2500 and some are the 2500 HD which is really a 3500 in disguise! My owner's manual states to use a WDH when towing over 5K LBS. I tried it without after reading many comments here, and it is night and day in how it handles. Rich, I want your truck. 10-speed Allison OMG! I could coast up our mountains in that. Mine will have to do.
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2 hours ago, Jim and Chris Neuman said:
Those of us in the West are surrounded by exactly the right type of rock to use in propane fire pits.
That makes good sense and we sure walked by many hiking on our recent trip to SW Utah. It would take a while looking to find the right kind, all close in size to collect a good batch. The ones I purchased for about $20, must have been run a rock tumbler and sorted for size. You can see in the ad choice of size. They're all rounded nicely, no cracks and hard as can be, the size and almost the shape of small eggs. Though I'll say, I certainly appreciate a thrifty idea! Thanks.
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OK, the first mention was OK @MAX Burner, but you guys are turning my AGM in the TV thread into a dumb coffee thread!
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Being home during this meet, I was hoping for more pictures. Your meetings, members getting together... Maybe those will be coming after y'all get home!
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1 hour ago, DunnYet said:
We are purchasing a Olliver II that was previously towed with a Ford F250, so the owners do not have an Anderson WDH. Since we are currently Ollie LE I owners, we did not purchase one with ours.
Now I need to get one, However, I never realized that there are multiple models. Can anyone who is towing their LE II with a Ford F150 XLT let me know which model Anderson you have? Want to have it with me to put on when we pick up the trailer.
Thanks for any advice.
The Andersen model is made to fit the Oliver frame, truck model does not matter. The truck matters re whether you need a WDH or not, but they all have 2" hitch receivers.
My suggestion is to ask members here if they want to sell theirs. I've noted some 10+ forum members that say they do not use theirs with their F-250 or other 2500 series trucks. Used and pulled from another Oliver, IMHO would be the best way to go! If you truly want to buy new, ask OTT for the part number or buy from them.
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@HDRider I've never even seen a Truma A/C, but you have a bearing noise, in the fan or fan motor, that I'm certain. On our recent trip the blower motor in my truck was doing the same thing. Mine was more of a squeal that would change pitch with the fan speed. I pulled the blower motor the other day and it was making the same noise connected to 12V on my workbench.
Good news is that if you can live with it on your trip, yes it will be annoying, but you should be OK for a while (unless going away for months). I see your Oliver is only a year old, so it should have some life in it. The way to get rid of the noise is to change fan speeds or turn off and on as you have done.
I read Truma service is impossible, but plan on that in your near future. These are not serviceable bearings. The fan assembly and/or fan motor should be replaced. Yours should be under warranty. Bad time of year for it with summer coming and RV Service shops being booked months out. I would open a ticket on it asap for warranty repair.
I hope to upgrade my AC this year or next. Reading too many posts on both Truma products on this forum. One member even changed out his on-demand HWH for the old fashioned 6-gal Suburban! I will upgrade to a unit where I can source replaceable parts and service the unit myself.
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Optional Furrion Shore Power Connector Loose
in Mechanical & Technical Tips
Posted
Ours is Furrion, front and streetside, and look to be original. I had to replace my streetside receptacle due to the threaded plastic portion had cracked into pieces. I used the wood screws supplied since I had no cracking and they snugged nicely. I certainly agree with machine screws and Nylock nuts, but harder to reach under the dinette and behind the EMS, etc. The front one is a no-brainer as the back is visible with doghouse removed. The part was $160 or so on e-Trailer.