jd1923

Understood. Down here we need AC when the sun is hot, only late afternoons. It cools off at altitude every night, so windows are open later. It was high of 94 today and at 10PM it's 75. Nice evening now and the low will be 65 by dawn.

Yes, you have a good point. Not wanting to carry a generator though. I just need to get enough in solar upgrades with a more efficient A/C to run it 2-3 hours in the late afternoons. Looks like I should get the 400W suitcase! We do have the advantage of being mostly sunny and dry in the SW for most of our travels.

Agreed, the red is a permanent seal that I do not use. I like the blue stick since, which is like a paste that you can rub on a screw vs. the liquid that will drip. BTW, Loctite is truly designed for metal automotive bolts. I wonder if the woodworkers out there know of a good thread sealant? This is what I have on my workbench for automotive maintenance: Amazon.com: LOCTITE 248 Blue Threadlocker Glue Stick: All-Purpose, Medium-Strength, Anaerobic, No Drip, General Purpose, Works on all Metals | Blue, 9 Gram Wax Stick (PN: 37643-506166) : Automotive

Mike, I believe mine was OTT installed. I have two OTT service receipts, dated 2018 and 2020, other receipts for tires, batteries etc. and nothing showing solar. See my Blue Sky system (see pic1). One odd thing though. When I removed the Xantrex 2KW inverter (no charger on our Xantrex like some newer hulls), the yellow 4 or 6 AWG ground strap had a 2018 date on it. That's weird on a 2016 hull! Maybe the inverter was replaced. My solar panels have serial numbers starting with 'Z' (see pic2) and when I searched online the newer Zamp 170W panels came up. I'm not absolutely sure of the 170W each rating. I also remember prior owner advertising that number, but they could be 160W. Maybe, I can contact Zamp re the serial number.

Thanks @Rolind, @mountainoliver and @rideandfly. I ran a test today. Ran the old dog Dometic 13.5 Penguin II at the heat of the day on inverter only for 3:15 hours, thermostat set at 78 and the high today was 94. The 600AH new Epoch batteries got down to 27% SOC. Turned the MP2 inverter off at 3PM. It's now 5:20, using only the 340W rooftop solar and the Blue Sky SC, SOC is now 32%. Not much gain. I want to let it sit rooftop solar only until say 2PM tomorrow to see what it gets up to. We don't summer camp so normally we'd only run A/C late afternoon anyway. Also, the plan is to very soon replace the Dometic. The new Atmos runs on half the power, show upon efficient A/C upgrade I should get twice the runtime. Today the PII A/C was using between 1600-1800W for 3:15 hours. The basement area under the streetside bed is where the Blue Sky was installed and also where I installed the Victron MP2 inverter. The VE.Bus Bluetooth controller mounted close to the Blue Sky read 103 degrees. I installed a Beech Lane dual fan in there, but it was off. I turned it on, and temp dropped 8-10 degrees. The MP2 was warm/hot as I could put the palm of my hand on it fully. The Blue Sky SC was VERY hot, could not place my palm on it for long. I don't think it even has a vent. I think I should get the Victron 30A for a new suitcase and perhaps later buy another one to replace the Blue Sky when it burns up! @mountainoliver, I was looking at Anderson Powerpole connectors, had already rulled out the Zamp/SAE style. I'm going to check into CNLINKO. Good idea to shorten that distance. I'm definitely going with a MPPT SC installed interior.

Working on adding Suitcase Solar, one without built-in SC, in the range of 220W to 400W. I need to upgrade our MPPT SC to handle additional solar amperage. We have 340W rooftop Zamp panels and a Blue Sky MPPT 25A SC and this system has worked flawlessly during 14 months of our ownership. Recently upgraded to 600AH Epoch LiFePO4 and Victron 3KVA MP2 inverter. We boondock more than camp on shore power. Want to be able to run A/C on inverter occasionally during afternoon hours. The common route would be to replace the Blue Sky system with a higher amperage MPPT SC. If we add 220W in solar a 50A SC would work. If we go with the beastly 400W suitcase, it would just be over the 50A spec and would have to go to 70A. Upgrade would be a Victron product. Here's where I would like opinions. I can scrap the Blue Sky but had another thought. What if I left the OEM install as-is, been working fine for 8 years, and just added another MPPT SC for the suitcase. It would just be off when suitcase not attached. This would be a redundant system so if one was to fail the other independent system would not be affected.I'm not into fancy integration. No Victron Lynx or Cerbo or Victron displays in our hull. I will just use the VictronConnect app as I do for the SmartShunt BM and VE.bus connection to the MP2. I am not interested in any Wi-Fi connections for remote monitoring, Bluetooth range is fine. If I go to an independent system, all I need is 10 AWG cabling, Anderson PowerPole connectors, a fuse/breaker and smaller 30A MPPT SC would do for much less money. My understanding is two MPPT SCs can work in parallel just like the SC and DC converter on shore power can charge simultaneously. This model is $260 less than the 70A version. What do you think? Amazon.com: Victron Energy SmartSolar MPPT Solar Charge Controller (Bluetooth) - Charge Controllers for Solar Panels - 100V, 30 amp, 12/24-Volt : Patio, Lawn & Garden

No, what tire pressure are you running?

Which Renogy did you get? (Zamp does seem overpriced.) I was just looking at this one (16 LBS): 220W Lightweight Portable Solar Panel | Renogy This one is a monster at 30 LBS! Not easy to luge around. It would be great if you could split this unit into two 200s and use one or both. Carrying each half at 15 LBS. Maybe I could customize the wiring to achieve this, but perhaps overkill! 400W Lightweight Foldable Solar Panel | Renogy I've got to figure out how much solar I need for 600AH LiFePO4. I know there are many articles out there and I have to research. Any advice? I have 340W on the roof and it would be great with additional panels we could run air conditioning on a sunny afternoon off our new Victron MP2 3KVA inverter without too much loss of battery SOC.

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Forgot the picture. Notice the cracks in the screw holes. I will fill them and always use 3M 4950 VHB tape on everything possible!

Ron, how in the world do you keep this so clean? Just beautiful! Ours is 4 years older than yours, E-Z Flex OTT installed in 2018, picture from last summer when I work an overall suspension maintenance. I pressure washed everything and steel-brushed the E-Z Flex and wet bolts. My jack and jackstands also don't look pretty either, just old tools about as old as me! Love the old tools, still work great. Good enough, but yours is pretty, even the brick drive!

Thanks @FLYnGATOR for getting me thinking of this now. I've had the beds out for weeks now, doing my inverter install, so why not install the exterior solar port now and buy my solar suitcase anytime. The port and wiring are small $$$. Reading all this, you are very likely to use the alligator clips for your upcoming trip because you want to take time to think through your permanent installation. I read some old posts searching for 'Zamp' and 'SAE' and 'polarity' and found a post from @johnwen regarding replacing the (cheap quality) Zamp port with an Anderson Powerpole connector: External Zamp connector - General Discussion - Oliver Owner Forums (olivertraveltrailers.com) Note his comment on how OTT installed this NOT being wired directly to the batteries as I had suggested above. Thanks John, for these connectors look to provide a more secure connection. I found this quickly on Amazon, but it was not easy to find authentic Anderson products: Amazon.com: Powerwerx PanelPole1, Panel Mount Housing for a Single Anderson Powerpole Connector with a Weather Tight Cover : Patio, Lawn & Garden Also looked further into my idea on using the rear TV cable opening (see pic). I'm going this way for sure, no drilling into the side body. Will run 10 AWG wires under the rear trunk floor, follow the sewer pipe up to the B+ and further to the B- buses. I may have to drill the main hole a bit larger. FYI, the square cable TV terminal is 2x2" and the 4 screw holes are in a 1 3/4" diameter. This cable and the port above are likely all I will need to connect panels that do not have the built-in SC, but I'll wait on the cable until purchase of the suitcase of choice to determine the proper connector. Amazon.com: OCHIKI 20FT 10AWG Solar Panel Extension Cable Fit for Anderson Adapter, Waterproof Female and Male Solar Connector, Solar Charging Cable Wire for Portable Power Station Solar Generators : Patio, Lawn & Garden With a 20 ft 10 AWG cable you can position the suitcase easily to the curb or streetside or to the rear. Thanks again. I'll make a new post when I work my actual install.

You can click the word quote, hit the + sign to the left of the word for a multi-quote. You can highlight a portion of a post and click "Quote Selection. Or just type the ampersand character and start typing the forum member's name like I'm doing here with your name: @trekhard You should get two notifications from my message, one for quoting you and another for the mention using your forum name (alias).

That's nuts that Dexter would mix SAE and metric sizes on the same suspension, but Ron knows his stuff and has given you all the info you need. It could be that there was one size for the outers and another for the E-Z Flex on the inners which was an add-on component. I just took a look at mine and inner to outer Zerks appear somewhat different. Both took either a 5/16" (.3125") or 8mm (.3150") wrench, since they are close. All you need is an 8mm open-end/box-end combo wrench. Because of the bolt/wrench size you can't tell if the threads are metric or SAE without removing them. To buy extras, remove one at the end and one at the E-Z flex. I use brake line (aka flare nut) wrenches for these, because I have them. They are the safest for soft bleed nipples used in hydraulic brake systems and work well for Zerks too. Unnecessary, but this is a nice tool to have for $9 for the two most common sizes today: Utoolmart Flare Nut Wrench, 8mm x 10mm Metric Double Open End, 1Pcs - Amazon.com

Still young and living life right! Read and read all you can on this great Oliver Owners Forum. Come down SW when it gets cold and wet up there! Good for you and best wishes in your adventures. Cheers!

@wolfdds check out this post where she had no water flow to the bathroom sink and toilet.

Nice! Good thinking @wolfdds and thanks for the picture so we'll know what to look for! 😂

Not going to ever talk to the pole mount again. Is it OK with everybody here that I'm not using one? I installed our PI EMS-HW30C brand new months ago where OTT had installed none. I read the EMS panel every time we plug in since I installed the remote in plain view in the trunk, where I keep the shore power cord. When it reads good the second I plug it in, is good enough for me. Mr. Sokol called it an "intelligent/EMS" so it must be a decent product. Is it a bit old-school using mechanical solenoids in its simple design. Before I would add a redundant device (btw all you're risking is the Furrion 30A receptacle, 1 ft of 10-3 cable and the EMS-HW30C itself doing its job), a smarter upgrade would be what @Ronbrink installed. Great work though I'm OK with the $160 upgrade adding the EMS-HW30C. Hughes Autoformers Install - Ollie Modifications - Oliver Owner Forums (olivertraveltrailers.com) Spend $350+ on the pole mount Hughes and it could be gone when you get to the trailer one afternoon to overnight. I'm not going to call it rude, but it's not helpful at all when a Forum member is asking for help, followed by others writing at length, that you should-a, could-a done something else. I love when I hear a sound, a flicker, a smell or anything pointing to an issue, as I've been notified of the issue, and I've got something to go on. @trekhard you did the right thing in hearing this, perceiving an issue. So many ignore sounds and other clues. Like the guy driving down the road where every time he touches the steering wheel there is a whine. If I see him at a stoplight, I'll suggest he fills the PS reservoir and if it appears full, change the belts (all of them). 🤣 I feel the greatest likelihood is that you hooked up at one location to shore power that had intermittent issues. Your PI EMS-HW30C protector worked well as it should have! The internal solenoids do make "popping" sounds when activated. Clare, I'm not sure how old you hull is, though I still suggest you open the covers, take a good look, tighten terminal screws as I detailed above and best wishes, JD

I've given this installation some thought, since it is on my radar to add one soon, now that I've upgraded to 600AH LiFePO4 with only 340W rooftop solar. @FLYnGATOR If you need time to do this right, maybe the alligator clips will work for this trip. You could connect them in a way sneaking the end connector outside the door, allowing the door to be locked for your trip. For the permanent installation, you could go "through the battery hatch." However, this way the wires would need length to open/close the door and would forever be in the way every time you open the hatch. Instead, you could drill into the body below the battery bay (this my plan), either left or right of the battery bay, depending on the nearest location to your internal OTT installed buses, in the basement opening under the streetside bed or rear dinette hatch (see pictures). Your much newer hull will look somewhat different, but you will have OTT OEM positive and negative buses to wire the red/black. The first picture shows the positive B+ bus (6 AWG red wires in and note the three yellow fuses that power the stabilizer jacks). Connect the red wire of the Zamp connector here. The wires from the Zamp connector do NOT have to be wired directly to the batteries! I would crimp a large eyelet and (on mine) piggyback mount it to the large bolt center of picture, left of the breaker. The cable coming in from the right comes from the batteries, goes through the breaker to the B+ bus. The cable leaving the left side powers the 12VDC fuse panel. This is an excellent mount, no extra wires in the battery bay and no weather on your connections. For the black wire, connect it to the B- bus. In our hull OTT uses all yellow-colored cables. The second picture show this bus. Note the large 6 AWG yellow cable coming from the left. This comes from my main battery connection. You can mount the black wire anywhere on this bus, but on mine, I would pick the empty slot right at this large cable for least resistance. In our hull the positive B+ bus is under the streetside bed. So, I will find a good entry point behind and below the battery bay. When I decide on location, I will drill an 1/8" hole from the inside and then go outside and drill the larger hole required. This allows for best positioning. Our B- terminal is under the rear dinette seat, so I will add length to that wire for sure. Use 10 AWG wire for any extensions, color doesn't really matter as long as you keep +/- polarity correct. You could even switch the polarity it you do not want to use the Zamp/SAE reversing connector, but they do that so when unplugged it's more difficult to touch the B+. I might switch mine, to go without, since the exterior terminal has a protection cap anyway (warning! only do this if you have some electrical background). For the exterior install of the Zamp terminal, I suggest drilling ONLY ONE main hole for the wires to pass through alone. I would NOT drill any of the 4 1/8" mounting holes for the screws which have a tendency to crack from use, being so close to the main hole, and from age. Use 3M VHB 4950 tape instead. Cut it into shape to cover the complete mounting flange. Use rubbing alcohol (90% pure preferred) on all matting surfaces. Some owners would not like the look of the 4 screw holes without little shiny chromed screws showing. Instead, you would see 1/8" white tape behind the openings. I suggest after installation, use a fine tip black Sharpy on the tape showing after installation so they better blend in. The cheap screws will cause rust over time. You could replace the screws with SS screws, but the cracking issues would still be present. IMHO, it's just a cleaner installation, and I promise the 3M VHB is stronger than screw mounted. It also creates a tight water seal, given the tape is properly applied around the full circumference. I plan to add a suitcase WITHOUT built-in solar controllers and run the Zamp port to a main internal SC, managing the suitcase AND the roof-mounted panels together. This will likely require me to upgrade the current 25A SC to a Victron 50A SC, but as you can learn from the movie, it has advantages. Another thought I had was to remove the RV-park cable TV port by the streetside rear bumper, using that hole instead of drilling another. We never use this connection, and the rear location makes very good sense in ease of access to the sun in 3 directions with shorter cables. I hope I gave you and other Forum Members a lot to think about in working this upgrade! Thanks to @rich.dev! The move he supplied above was very helpful in my thinking this through completely. The guy on the movie sure is a geek, though he demonstrates 8 configuration options nicely. 😂

This has got to stop! Perhaps in your eyes, but I never call the opinions of others wrong, nor personally attack fellow Oliver Owners calling them "rude" as you have done. I quote "rude" from your post of last week, where I bit my tongue with no reply, only marking your post with a Sad emoji. This wasn't the first time. BTW, opinions are NOT facts, mine nor yours. Facts can be wrong, and opinions cannot by definition. I premised my statement with "IMHO" and OMG, I even wrote that others may believe in the contrary position. I will say that my opinions are based on literally several hundreds of professional installations I have labored myself in the aftermarket automotive service industry and a dozen auto/truck restorations, now on my 3rd RV restoration/upgrade. I have helped and been thanked for many knowledgeable posts, including this one before your comments, where today I spent a half hour of my time researching and writing this. I do not need OTT or any other Service Co to work on my Oliver. It will be worked using my opinions and two hands. I write from this knowledge and capability. So let's get the facts straight. Please allow me to quote Mr. Sokol from the article you linked, where he wrote "However, for any of you who don’t have an intelligent/EMS surge protector like your EMS-HW50C which checks for high and low voltage as well as open grounds, let me suggest..." Simply put, he wrote for those "who don't have" the EMS-HW50C (Olivers have the 30A version of the same "intelligent/EMS" device). I certainly agree with Mr. Sokol's opinion. Mr. Dorrer, you can PM me with an apology if you like. That would be a great way to end this. You voiced your opinion twice here. Can we stick to the subject. P.S. Forum Mods: Please feel free to delete this post given you have deleted its predecessor. There is no call for either and I'm truly sorry for my part! 😞

The PD5100 ATS switches between two shore power sources (streetside or front receptacle intended for a generator). If the ATS goes bad, burns on the wrong side, you could have no power at all. It's likely not this device. It is the EMS that has the remote switch with status and error code reader. See my first picture. The ATS is on left and EMS on the right. It would be difficult to ascertain which unit a noise would be coming from, being side-by-side in the same cabinet. Your setup may look different, since on our older hull OTT did not install an EMS and I installed the same unit to copy the newer OEM build. Don't know how any power failure could start an inverter that was truly switched OFF, but I've read there are some different ON/OFF configurations on this model. Perhaps other experienced Xantrex 3000 owners could chime in here. We have a few! The EMS E0 code means no error. This is the status you want. E1 through E10 are stated errors, defined on the cover plate and manual. The EMS is a sensitive device. Another member just showed it to be the issue in their case. See this thread and notice the picture at the end showing the burnt neutral wire: Air conditioner and 110 outlets stop working while camping - Page 2 - Mechanical & Technical Tips - Oliver Owner Forums (olivertraveltrailers.com) My second picture shows the insides of a good EMS when first installed. All wiring should look clean, free of corrosion and all connections tight. It's impossible to diagnose an intermittent electrical issue from a past trip. I do suggest this as a check. Frist make sure that you are NOT connected to shore power and trip the 30A breaker as a secondary precaution. Remove the cover to the PD5100 ATS (snap-fit, clips on the sides) and remove the EMS cover plate (6 small Phillips screws). First use a strong flashlight and inspect every wire and connection, for anything not clean looking. Then tighten the 6 terminal screws in the EMS and I believe there are 9 connections in the ATS. Replace the covers. Power up again when needed and that's likely all you can do for now, though you may soon get other suggestions. I also suggest when the Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C product is installed you do NOT add another "surge protector plugged in at the post." I've read here and elsewhere where many forum members will disagree with me on this notion, but IMHO possible interference between these devices outweighs redundancy. Give the lesser post model to a friend that needs one. Could be there was no physical issue, merely the shore power at that campsite had intermittent surging causing the EMS to switch OFF/ON quickly which it is designed to do and does create sound in the solenoids opening/closing. However, I live by the motto "hear something, say something, do something!" You did the first two steps. Pull the covers on both devices for inspection and maintenance. Something I did when purchasing our used Oliver for peace of mind.

Thank you, Mike! Or perhaps consider a 350A ANL fuse if you want to error on the side of caution (350Ax12V=4200W). I'm not sure why they spec a 400A fuse (4800W)! This is actually double the stated 2400W continuous power output of the MP2. Peak at 2x continuous seems high to me but Victron engineers should know. Certainly, a 250A fuse is not enough for the power needs of the MP2! I also wonder if the Class-T is needed in our application? You already have Class-T built into your batteries which is the most expensive component of your installation. I took a couple courses in electrical engineering, but like y'all, I learned what I know from doing, decades working on old cars, RVs and homes. And we all learn from forums and the OTT Forum has amazing members, helpful, knowledgeable and super responsive! When researching online, I often add the word 'forum' to the end of a keyword search. I join a new forum every time I purchase a new project vehicle! I learned most of this subject from another online forum, when building a from scratch solar/inverter setup in a Bigfoot RV. On the BOCI forum, I became friends with an EE who worked his installation prior to mine and was there to help, every step of the way! Our AZ home came with one 200A panel. Over the years, I've added 4 subpanels! The first was 60A for the spa, running 100' cable from garage through the attic and down. Then 100A in an outbuilding for 220V compressor and woodworking tools. 60A for the kitchen with separate 20A breakers for fridge and extra oven (while running natural gas there for a new cooktop). I removed the electric cooktop, so I thought to use the original 8-3 cabling for having a better powered kitchen! Chris loves it, as she can run two ovens and the microwave without worries and the fridge does not overheat in the summer months anymore (with a 10 AWG feed vs 14 AWG wiring on a 15A circuit along with other wall outlets). Most recently we added a 60A panel for a new (used) Tuff Shed with 30A RV outlet. We trenched the side yard and ran 125 FT of 8-3 direct burial cable. Just some ideas to consider! 🤣 Restoration and enhancement projects have been my lifelong hobby, as I can tell so many here have as well. We have a huge amount of collective tacit knowledge in the regulars here. I've been often asked, "How do you know how to do that?" My usual answer is, "I don't know, but I will when I'm finished." I was able to work a quick effective project here, starting from 3 Oliver owners who came before and posted. I posted my project in great detail for those who sooner or later will have this on their Wishlist. I did not have this on my radar at all, thinking the LiFePO4 investment was too much $$$, until you Mike made it look reasonable and relatively simple! Thank you for that. And thank you @mossemi for your insight here and often! I can see how running 1/0 cables, even doubled, would be an easier installation in boat hulls then the bulky 4/0. Perhaps also cheaper when puchasing large spools.

It will be a pain to open the battery door daily and don’t leave the trailer that way with expensive LiFePO4 batteries exposed! Common RV theft is batteries and LP tanks. If you know the parts you need, you could order on Amazon today and get before the weekend. You’d have to be comfortable drilling a small entry hole in your Oliver. Since you’re purchasing a suitcase with integrated SC, all you need to do is run the two wires to the pos and neg buses built into your Oliver. A couple of pics and we could advise. Just a thought. What model suitcase solar did you buy?

I'm not seeing 250A for this application. Keep in mind the 4/0 welding cable is rated at 600V and of course we're at 12V. OTT had installed a 250 ANL fuse in ours for the 2KW Xantrex and I think you would blow the 250 soon enough running the MP2 at capacity. I was going with a 300A until I found this. See PDF page 16 of the Victron MP2 manual (where they have written a spec for a 400A fuse on 1/0 cable for short runs): There is much confusing and differing information out there! You got me thinking 300A would have been a better choice (but why does Victron write 400A for the12V model?). See this from What Is The Ampacity Of 4/0 Welding Cable? (nassaunationalcable.com) where they state: "According to IEWC, the ampacity of 4/0 welding cable for 600-volt in-line applications is 315 Amps when the copper temperature is 60 C, and the ambient temperature is 40 C." They do not state for how many feet of cable. Also, tables like this are everywhere online, stating the 4/0 Welding cables handles 600A: Also, does the Victron table mean running two (2) 1/0 cables, doubling up the cable? Why would they do that? BTW the cross-sectional area of two (2) 1/0 cables is basically the same as a 4/0 cable.

Many were saying a bad neutral and that’s what you found. The hot output has a current sensor around it. However, the EMS is monitoring input shore power, the hot out, but not the neutral on the output side. Good find!