jd1923

Additional shunts can be installed to monitor subsystems, different battery banks, multiple solar arrays, etc. not much need in an Oliver, but… Our hull has a shunt wired to the display for the original solar charger. You can only read SOC and amps */- when in our hull looking at the display under the pantry. This would be the same for the BMV712 shunt mentioned above, wherever you mount the display, though this Victron product might have a Bluetooth sender or one can be added. I left the original shunt as-is and installed this Victron SmartShunt so I could read battery status outside the Oliver, in the TV while driving, even from my living room window at home! I spent $90 to add this and it’s been worth it. Download the app for no additional charge: https://a.co/d/4hKmfCW

Finishes up everything today. I installed so much HW and wiring behind the panels there is so much room now inside! Blu-ray/DVD on the shelf, lower shelf empty after deleting the Wally. Room for a small box of DVDs, my extra Dewalt charger, Chris' fan, another very important tool and of course my hat! Football on everyday this weekend. Version 2 of this upgrade is done again. 😂

Besides the new dinette cushions we ordered carpet runners. I order the 4' length for the entrance, just to check it out, nice product. Later we ordered the 10' length. They come 26" wide (perfect) at every foot length. If you are interested in these reasonable carpet runners, just order the 10' (or 12') as they include at no charge a 3' runner! Carpets are not worth a picture so please look here: https://a.co/d/8kEcOFy Then I had another idea. After 55+ nights camping, just a drop in the bucket for most of you... The one thing that always bothered me was where do I put my PJs when I dress in the morning? And more so, where do I put my Jeans, shirts and socks that I would like to wear another day, not yet ready for laundry? We have so far piled up our day clothes on one dinette cushion at bedtime. This is our new fix: https://a.co/d/dW89TwU We love it! 🤣 Zoom in to see the simple, easily reversable, installation.

While finishing up the Attic wiring and another install today, it was hard to find the two LARGE holes I filled months ago that were the original streetside corner TV mounts. Also today, I used almost the last of my Marine-Tex to fill all the screw holes and the large openings for the front camera and the front-corner mounted Wi-Fi booster. We'll see tomorrow after some sanding, posting results in my other thread, re rooftop repair. I just ordered another Marine-Tex kit for future use, good to have on hand!

Had a repeat of our Thanksgiving turkey dinner last night! Chris stretched out the left-over gravy just a bit and our dinner was just as good again. It tasted really good this year, yum! 🤣 Hope everybody had a great weekend!

That's why I saved the dinette seat backs that measure 24x15 and 4" thick! 🤣

Thanks, John. I did patch these holes when I filled some screw holes on the body. Like Bill wrote, it is tedious with the sanding, and I only got it so good, trying to sand the fill without dulling the area around it. I used this product that was pretty good, color just a tad brighter than our old hull.

I reworked all the "Attic" wiring while adding this antenna. Check out the first picture. It's not funny! The Oliver family should not employ anybody who cannot cut a square rectangular opening! They also used a 1 1/4" hole saw for the 12V outlet that requires a 1 1/8" opening. And look at how the two screw holes at the bottom of the panel are lined up. I used the original hole for the new Winegard antenna controller and drilled a new hole to install the dual USB port. The simple power strip and an HDMI switch (choose between TV tuner or Blu-ray player) are both mounted with VHB tape. Our WHITE and amazing Samsung 32" high-rez monitor, its screen only 1/2" thick, has no internal TV tuner. I added a remote digital HDTV tuner. You cannot see this in the install since it is behind the panel. It's powered by USB and HDMI is the output. Simple, inexpensive and works well: https://a.co/d/7YBYzxw Check out all the wires in the bottom RH corner of the second picture. The TV tuner, the TV power supply and all extra cabling is behind the panel. The Winegard controller has cable inputs and output behind the panel too. The cable TV input you see in front is extra if needed. I should have taken a picture behind the panel.

UPDATE on our A/V system installation - Back in June 2023 when we purchased our Oliver, I thought the Winegard Dish Sat setup was a nice option to have. We got a Wally receiver and used it on one spring trip to Utah. We soon realized the monthly cost of the Dish Network, even paying a month at a time, was too much money for the value. I would prefer an antenna to view occasional local broadcast TV when traveling without monthly service fees. I just removed the Winegard satellite dish. I wished OTT had never installed this system for all the related repair work, though I will reuse the same coax feed for a new antenna. After some antenna research, I went with the Winegard Rayzar Automatic Antenna RZ-8500. It has the advantage of being self-adjusting, automatically turning the antenna for the strongest signals. These are expensive at over $400. Months ago, after looking on-and-off, I found a new unit from a private eBay Seller for $250 shipped! Living in Prescott AZ, broadcast HDTV is bounced off Mingus Mountain (think Jerome AZ) to the north of us, from Phoenix 100 miles to our south. Also, our Oliver is now parked behind our garage blocking line-of-sight to the repeater. However, the Rayzar antenna still found 13 frequencies, with subchannels connecting to 30 stations. This antenna works very well. I did not want a directional antenna that would need manual adjustments. It may appear that I’m removing one eyesore for another, but the new antenna is much smaller. The Dish Sat was a monster at 13” tall with 20” diameter. The Rayzar is half the height at 6 ½” and 15” round (notice screw holes from old unit in the picture). It is far less noticeable on the Oliver roof, just 2” taller than the solar panels and hardly noticeable from ground level. In the picture nothing is mounted, until all the fiberglass work is completed. The new antenna will be held tight with 3M 4950 VHB tape, no screws!

Wow, less than half the price of Home Depot for what looks like the same item less the Husky house brand name.

New pics... I purchased some basic construction scaffolding a few years ago when we painted the exterior of our home. Remembering about $260 on Craigs for a 2x8' setup (old crusty parts). I'm the tool and setup and prep guy. Chris is an amazing painter, interior or exterior, highly detail, never bleeds a line! The rig was wobbly! I had to tie the scaffolding to the building, or to a close tree or bush, really, anything to keep it stable! I should take a picture of my neighbor's custom home next door, tomorrow where the sub is working the stucco, OMG! the rickety frame with random wood planks. You're not getting me or any family member on this this rig!!! When I sold the old scaffolding, I kept 3 of these adjustable legs (while getting our money back). Glad the see the MetalTech stuff is industry standard in the 1 3/8" inside diameter. It is so much more secure than the wheels that come with these AMAZING Home Depot deal!

After getting emails every other day from Epoch and Renewable Outdoors, I thought what the heck, what does the 460AH battery cost on this Black Friday. With 1060AH you could run an Atmos A/C ALL night long (or 2-3 hot afternoons in Arizona)! I was disappointed to see this vendor now charges sales tax. Whenever I spend $1000 +/- on a big-ticket item, I look for an out-of-state vendor that does not hit the minimums to charge out-of-state sales tax. 😒

For $1600, Craigs tape job looks really good to me! Thought when I looked a year ago these doors were under $900. Like Mike, our few lights cracks will stay as is no tape required, but I would do the same it the laminate was coming out of the frame as pictured. To remove and replace the surface will not be easy, given you want it installed within the frame like the original. The only removeable section is the bottom cross-member (see door bottom pictured) and the window surround and door handle. You can buy 4x8' sheets of similar material at Depot and other stores. Cutting smoothly to size with top radius corners is not easy but doable. The trick would be after getting all the old material out would be slipping the new surface into place. You would likely have to chisel and file the core of the door to make extra room for material that would be a few mils thicker. Or you could just glue it over the frame. 🤣 I'll replace our door ONLY after we have trouble opening and closing it!!!

I have the same one in my truck toolbox but after brake jobs and such mine is strictly for outdoor use! 🤣

This would be nice at times but will take depth from the seating area. I like the pool noodle idea or a lumbar pillow since they can be removed when dining. I have one that I can use at the dinette and always when watching TV from bed. Sitting correctly when eating I prefer the full depth, but perhaps not needed for all given Ron's comment. Our dog Charley likes to sit at the dinette in the morning looking out the window and when we are away for the day. We're looking now for a throw-cover, so he doesn't dirty the new fabric! Checkout my before and after picture. Our old cushions were just gross! I tossed out the bottoms but kept the backs which are great for kneeling when working in the Oliver basement! One reason ours got so dirty is that all summer I used them for kneeling or laying on the floor working all our Oliver mods.

Chris and I had a Thanksgiving drink in the Oliver yesterday! I was testing a new TV tuner and antenna earlier in the day and had the football game on. These cushions so much more comfortable! The foam is better quality, denser so you do not feel the hard platform anymore. The seats are 22" tall and I measured our dining room chairs and LR couches which all measure 20" high. I have short inseams for my height. When Chris or I sit squarely our heels would be 1" off the floor but when leaning back or forward they feel fine. The bottoms with 5" foam and with Dacron batting are 6" finished. The backs are 5" total using 4" foam. I believe for Chris, or for you and Brooxie new 4" foam (5" total) in the bottom cushions would certainly be enough for your weight. My weight is in my upper body, so the deeper bottom is great! If you make the backs deeper, you will lose an inch of seating area which might work well for you. Either way, it made sense for the extra money to replace all materials after 9 years as the old cushions had several stains and the old foam was no longer square. We bought this fabric at $42/yard delivered, buying it through our upholsterer. Comes in many colors, you will need 4 yards: Sunbrella Upholstery Canvas Burgundy (5436-0000) I added a picture to show the quality of the work.

I could have left the vent cap alone, though it appeared to have an opening under one edge. Not being the guy to caulk over caulk I removed it. The inside seal was cracked in a couple places, so good I did while working up there. Replacement vent cap is only $6. https://a.co/d/9ixjPRi Another 90 minutes on the clock and it’s almost clean enough for fill!

Likely the difference adding to the 1250 LB rating.

@Steve-Gwenne, you're new to us, though in my memory, I have read your forum name in the past. Thank you and God bless you for your acknowledgement on my humble post! TY @Mike and Carol and @Derek B, we met just this October, my new BFFs and thank you too! Given the great central Texas and Louisiana, you should be able to build dinette seats at 60c on the dollar of AZ prices. Get er done. Derek work your LiFePO4 purchase first and asap. Love you, guys...

They put us on their November calendar. After running our trip, every time I sat on the old cushions, I thought it would be a shame to merely reupholster with new cloth yet keep the 9-year-old foam. When we dropped them off, I asked about new foam. He said the quality of foam for seating they carry is far superior to what we showed them in the old cushions. We went with 24x25" bottoms with 5" new foam (1" taller) and with the batting and fabric, the cushions are closer to 6" tall. We had 2" clearance under the window frames with the old cushions. The new ones just fill the opening and stay nicely. Went with the original sized 4" foam for the seat backs. All new foam, batting, fabric, zippers with newly corded edges. Chris loves the color given her Red, White and Blue Oliver theme! We spent just under $500 out the door. Which for me was better than the $350 for upholstery only. Soon, she will look as good as she tows or provides inverter power!

We bought replacement seating on Amazon, hoping in time for our trip to the Texas Rally. It got here but I returned it for $400 plus tax it had to be right. https://a.co/d/gqOD3yI there was no foam in them just Dacor batting 5” thick in the bottoms, the pillows were all poophy and too tall. Thought of reupholstery and had a good feeling about a shop in Prescott Valley which has lower labor rates than Prescott proper. With 4 yards of Sunbrella stain resistant burgany with new batting they quoted $350.

@DavePhelps thanks for the idea. Not familiar with the AAV. This would clean up the front roof more but would require a 2+" fiberglass plug through both hulls. No third solar panel for me, as we just added the 400W Renogy Suitcase with Victron MPPT. In a few years when solar gets cheaper and more efficient, I could replace the two 160W panels with like two 220W even if they are longer. In case you did not see the other post. Get this scaffolding now if you need some: MetalTech Safeclimb 6 ft. Baker Scaffold with Platform and Included Trap Door, 1250 lbs. Load Capacity I-CISCH1 - The Home Depot @ScubaRx 3M VHB was first released in 1980: 3M™ VHB™ Tape 4950 | 3M United States It is certainly available today and OTT still drills 4 screw holes for a simple Zamp port and everything else. Old-school thinking should be replaced with continuous improvement. If we go to longer solar panels someday I will use VHB tape for the new front brackets which will hold stronger than screws in fiberglass. Just because a camera comes with a huge rubber grommet (glued into the hull opening and very difficult to remove) the experienced installer should ask, "Is this truly required?" I sure would ask this question before taking a 1 1/8" hole saw to the hull! I say don't use it. Just drill the hole for the diameter required for the wire harness. Then use VHB tape to cover the entire camera base. The tape will also act to seal the very small, centered hole. No screws, no Dicor required (or perhaps one drop where the harness meets the bracket). I sure wish I was merely filling one small hole vs. creating a plug to fit this large opening as a base for fiberglass, cleaning up all the cracks created by the 4 screws and filling these holes too! OTT manufacturing should give this some real thought.

Yeah, it can be. I met Ron at the Texas Rally (awesome TV-TT setup with the quiet hum of the new Atmos A/C running)! I estimate weighing 60 LBS more than Ron and my 6' 2" vs. his 5'10". That's a lot of weight off the end which might lift the wheels off on the other side which could cause the scaffold to slip. This model has the plank door which should work when mounted taller and not over the trailer doghouse. This also would not be easy for a big guy to get through. My old tennis-damaged knees make climbing the angle of a stepladder so much easier than straight up a 90-degree vertical. The ladder in that spot was well grounded by itself and truly did not need a strap except for safety when bridging one foot on the platform while the other is still on the 4th rung of the ladder. This one is a 5 ft 250 LB quality Werner ladder. Given the angle, it was an easy one step to crossover. When needed I could use our 8 ft 300 LB Werner to climb greater heights. I felt good getting up and down and I'm not fond of ladders in general!

Decided to start a new thread vs further hi-jacking this one!

After removal of our obsolete rooftop parts, I wish that OTT had never installed anything up there but the bathroom exhaust fan. What a disaster (see before and after pics below). It's truly a mess in its basic OEM installations. It will take me many, many hours of hard work to correct, more on that later. Maybe I should have just left the stuff up there? Everything removed could have been mounted with 3M VHB tape, no screw holes required. Winegard suggests their extra mount kit which adds another 12 screw holes, also unnecessary and this alone is half the repair work ahead of me. Never backed a trailer with a camera on it in my life and modern TVs have back-up cameras. Why does OTT drill a 1 1/8" hole in the hull, when a 3/16" hole is all that is needed? The picture on this 2015 camera system has the resolution of VHS tapes from back in the 90s! 🤣 To me, Wi-Fi and cellular boosters are only useful in some cases, and ours was not working anyway. I installed a Pepwave router setup instead last winter. The Wi-Fi Ranger antenna box is now collateral damage! The OEM exhaust fan was installed with the side marked "FRONT" pointing to the rear of the trailer. I hope OTT is not installing options like this on new builds! Ours is now 9 years old. Those ordering new, my advice is to refuse options that pierce the hull with multiple screw holes! Add only the options you must have and nothing extra. I still need to remove the 4 Winegard brackets, remove all the Dicor and sealants and start filling holes. Thanks for reading...