jd1923

I have ONLY heard the "clicking noise" when the LP valve is turned OFF.

My sediments exactly! When looking for fridge, or an upgraded A/C, anything but! I'm looking forward to your thread! The compressor fridges I've seen here so far do not enough freezer space to keep a half bag of ice, let alone a couple of fine steaks frozen, PERIOD! We need at least the same CF in freezer space, though this may not be one of your criteria. I would love a RV fridge that is literally 25% freezer or more. You can keep water bottles, condiments, beer and most things on ice, but you CANNOT keep frozen items properly frozen unless a freezer is less that 10F (speaking from many years in the restaurant industry). Anybody need an ice pack to apply to a injured joint? I sure do! You need freezer space. I will likely add a freezer to my truck bed, but...

The one with the Cummins!?

Ship me the second one! 🤣 Is the second box the interior assembly?

Has anybody worked a permanent rooftop installation? I like the specs, IP67, wide temp range, wind speeds 60+ MPH. Anybody wire Starlink Mini as WAN input to a router? We did our Pepwave upgrade in Jan. Just 9 months ago Starlink was $2500 HW cost and no Mini. It’s now feasible! Anybody use this yet for Zoom meetings? How is latency? (common in Sat connections) Thanks @Patriot

Recommended Charge Current is 50A on the Epoch 300AH LiFePo4 battery, and Max Charge Current is stated at 200A. That is a large difference. My question is, what would "recommended" be for two batteries in parallel? For batteries wired in parallel we add amperage, so why not add amperage of charge rates? I could not find a decisive answer to this question online. For these batteries Recommended Discharge Current is 100A and Max Discharge Current is 200A. I've set our Victron MP2 at a charge rate of 50A where up to 120A is available. I want what’s best for the batteries, but if I only have limited time on shore power, can I charge at stronger charge rate? Is it OK to be greater than the recommended rate and still considerably less than Max?

I had suggested 2WD earlier in this thread. Though hard to find one these days on dealer lots. Any 4WD truck is a climb! Love our 2WD TV, easy step up and it's not like you're going rock crawlin' with back issues! The weight of a TV is mostly on the rear axle, front wheels are important for steering vs. pulling.

Get these parts to flush black or gray tanks: https://a.co/d/1jRtUTP https://a.co/d/b4RE4F6 https://a.co/d/5eEU0sE

Actually, @Frank C did it first and best, quite detailed using u-clips. Mine was a quick job but the part re mine I like is the rubber seal, inexpensive part too!

Looks like you’re going to have to open it. I put mine back with 4 screws, drill 5/32” holes, rubber washers and a white rubber seal, no caulk. https://a.co/d/5G5pVZd

I did this upgrade first and by itself. Made a shorty cable and just mounted it at the batteries. You also need to connect the red wire to positive, so simple. When I upgraded to LFP and new inverter, I mounted the shunt at the other end of the B- battery cable closest to the inverter to get it out of the battery bay.

Yeah, my older 2KW Xantrex had the remote on/off button, no display, and I never thought to see if there was an app. For $100 and easy installation, the Victron SmartShunt is a very nice accessory! Now with Victron MP2 Inverter and MPPT Solar charger, I have 3 app screens to view. This one is for the SmartShunt. It's about 2PM, SOC is 100%, so the solar charger is only needing to add +0.75A net (in addition to amperage being used by 12V accessories/lighting and the inverter at idle. This can be added regardless of make and model of other system components: Amazon.com: Victron Energy SmartShunt IP65 Battery Monitor (Bluetooth) - Victron Smart Shunt - 6.5V-70V, 500 amp : Automotive

Just leave it on. Measure how much amperage it is drawing. The older 2KW Xantrex we had, took 1A when no 120VAC is being supplied. Our new Victron MP2 also takes approx. 1A at idle. This adds up to 24AH per day. Divide 24 by the AH of your battery bank for SOC loss. We have 600AH which comes to -4% per day. But with the solar charger running, net amperage is always positive during daylight hours, until you run a 120VAC appliance. We generally leave it on 24x7 unless we're gone for the day. We run our TV and Soundbar afternoons and nights, often the next morning too. Use our 1100W electric tea kettle to heat water for coffee and SOC is often 90% or high 80s. Maybe some microwave use and it's always back to 100% by the afternoon, unless it's raining or extremely overcast. Not sure if Xantrex has a good app. We added the Victron SmartShunt prior to upgrading our inverter. I'm checking SOC and +/- Amps on the phone app regularly and always just before leaving the Oliver for the day. One night we hit the fridge into DC mode without knowing it. I should have checked the app but had my phone charging at the dinette when I got into bed. Woke up at dawn to see the DC light on, checked the app and SOC was down to 63%. That was with the 450AH lead-acid we had at the time which is not a good situation. The following sunny day we got back up to 83% and then 90% the day after, rooftop solar only. Still used our inverter, ran the TV, but heated coffee water using LP on the cooktop! Keep in mind due to the fridge DC mode, this error would have occurred with the inverter on or off.

This is also true with the Victron MP2 setup where "User Defined" allows you to manually set charge rates to battery manufacturers' specifications. For Epoch batteries, the Absorbtion rate is 14.2V and Float 13.6V.

Thank you, but the old body is too sore, and our to-do list is never-ending! 🤣

Can you buy just the rack, less storage boxes? I’d like a 12VDC fridge/freezer back there, locked down, very nice given it fits in the receivers on our old hull. TY!

btw, this is a real bus! rated at 400A, 5/16” of tinned plated copper. You want copper vs. brass and 1/4”+ for high amperage. The OEM bus I relegated to a low amp split bus is brass plated and <1/8”. https://a.co/d/2fpogyT

Yes @MnG KY the other thread just got bumped. She removed the OEM installed restrictors to use the external pressure regulator (restrictor-bad, regulator-good). My first picture shows the backflow preventers (necessary) coupled with restrictors (should remove if using external regulator). I also removed all the OEM valves that had 1/4" openings for motorized ball vales with 12mm openings (.25" to .47"). The valves on your newer hull look different but are still small ID restricting. The drill bits in the second picture are 1/4" and 3/8" showing the inner diameters of these parts. OTT installs 1/2" PEX plumbing but the system is downgraded at every elbow, connector and even more-so at every valve.

OTT should realize regardless of customer choices in solar/inverter/battery options, only two holes into the battery bay for +/- battery cables are necessary.

Hoping everything we need while traveling is now more accessible. I've had the beds in the house for 2-3 months while working on it. Hope when we get them back in there and made, they can stay put. 😂

Don't forget the B- Ground Bus! Mine was full, not an open slot. Also, OTT glued and screwed two short busses together, the connecting jumper wire took two slots, and I needed to add several grounds for new chargers, etc. Found a Siemens 30 slot bus, nice! SIEMENS EC3GB30 Ground Bar Kit with 30 Terminal Positions - Wall Dimmer Switches - Amazon.com I could not get the old one off (OTT can glue to hold), so I removed all the original screws and used a pair of bolts to connect new to old, then a pair of long thin wood screws to hold it to the board. Cut off all the old wire ends and stripped clean news. There was only one 6 AWG wire to battery ground, so I added a second 6 AWG ground.

Our inverter upgrade placed the new MP2 Inverter under the streetside bed (turn ON/OFF via Bluetooth), which created a lot of room under the rear dinette seat. Both buses in the picture are B+ positive (I just purchased the two-color set and decided to use both). Look closely at the RHS of the upper bus to see the 4/0 cable coming from the inverter & batteries. This is the 400A main bus, with 400A ANL fuse from the batteries. The two solar chargers, and soon a DC-DC Charger (white space top-right), all feed into this bus. Two breakers in the picture are from the solar chargers. The third breaker (bottom center) creates a 40A sub-bus for most connections (lower bus with black cover). New home for the stabilizer jack and other fuses.

Notice in the first picture, the 3 fuses for the stabilizer jacks, breakers from the solar charger and to the B+ bus. This was all moved under the rear dinette seat. Still wanted a small bus though fused at the main bus under the dinette. I cut the center out of the original bus to create a low amperage spilt bus. Only new HW, the Victron SmartShunt, VE.bus and the Beech Lane cooling fans are now powered here. It amazed me that the wiring for the stabilizer jacks and all other wires on this bus, started from the front (even power to the jack that is 1 ft away). I removed 6' of wire and two butt connectors on all of these wires, added one new connector. I contacted Ryan Gurin at Sun Forge LLC and he verified that I could effectively turn off the Blue Sky SC by tripping the breaker to the battery. So, I moved the breaker but did not take the time to move the Blue Sea switch, to be left in the ON position. The blue colored device top of second picture is the Victron VE.Bus with Bluetooth, connected by the yellow ethernet cable to the Victron MP2 Inverter/Charger, app used instead of a display. The SmartShunt is also below on the main ground (not pictured). All of the Victron equipment can be programmed by ethernet-USB device (under dinette) and/or by the app.

Ever since we bought our Oliver, I thought "Why is everything under the beds? First step was to replace the manual water valves with motorized ball valves and high-end water pump. We refill the FWT often when boondocking and like to drain the FWT at times. Wrote up a mod thread on this in Jan. Fixed the furnace ducting this June. One last task is to move the fuse for the water pump so it is accessible.

Here's a close-up view of the Anderson SB50 connectors and environmental boots from Powerwerx. BTW, not easy to crimp these HD 10 AWG crimp terminals. My pneumatic crimper only goes as small as 6 AWG. I used a hand crimper with an extra-large channel lock on the crimper handles for extra leverage!