Snackchaser

Sure! Each laptop is working independently so it only comes down to the internet "Bandwidth," which simply means how much data can be transmitted over time. Typical Starlink connections are very fast, usually greater than 100 Mega bites per second (Mbps) so you can easily stream video on more than one device at a time. That's why trailer park internet can be so slow; the more users means less available bandwidth.

With all other loads turned off (as to not overload the Jackery) just hook your Jackery neg to the ground buss with all the yellow wires, and the Jackery positive to the big red wire input of your 12 volt fuse panel . Your pump will then operate as normal. Otherwise you will have to cut the wire splice at the pump to feed it.

Thanks! But I might have some involvement with it being there😉

Oliver spotted in a Polaris Off Road video! The Oliver can be seen briefly in several scenes of the video about Cerro Gordo Ghost Town and historic silver mine.

No, a voltage regulator is not advised for the Starlink mini because it already operates from 12 to 48 volts DC. As was the jest of this thread, it's actually necessary to boost the voltage if using the supplied long cord in a 12 volt system due to the voltage drop. When I started this thread, I had one of the first Minis and there were no accessories or aftermarket options to allow it to work on 12 volts without either boosting the voltage, or shortening the cord. So I utilized a robust Vctron voltage booster that's wired to turn-on whenever the Mini is plugged in. I still use that system and, IMHO, it's still the best and simplist way to go. Of course, you can always use the supplied AC adapter that puts out 48 volts DC if you have an inverter, but that will suck down your battery a lot faster. These days there are more options and shorter cords if your mini is going to be mounted close by. However, it's often necessary to move the Mini further away for it to have a clear sky view, and in such case you need to boost the voltage to account for voltage drop from the longer cord. Some people use a POE injector (Power Over Ethernet) that can supply power through an ethernet cable that is plugged into the auxiliary ethernet port. Others use portable battery packs. I make snap-in re-chargeable battery packs for taking my mini to other campsites and such, but they have limited battery life. Because the Mini has a built in Router, it looses WiFi signal, and thus internet speed, the farther away it is. Mine is hopelessly slow if I use the entire cord length. So a great accessory is the Starlink Mini Router. They are inexpensive, and you won't often need it. But when you have a situation where your Mini is placed farther away for a clear sky view, then the router will save your day! See my post "The New Starlink Mii Router, for what ails you." So you will need to decide how you want to power your Mini based on how you plan to mount it and use it. Then you can make an informed decision on how to power it. Hope that helps! Geoff

This is a confusing topic even for some electricians, but adding a new 120 volt, 30 amp RV outlet in your garage, or outside, will require GFCI protection per 2023 NEC. However, adding a building extension usually does not require that you update existing wire to code. That would be up to your particular jurisdiction. Most of the common home panel manufactures offer 120 volt, 30 amp GFCI breakers for around $60. Check your panel label because many have interchangeable breakers like Murry and Siemens or Eaton and Cutler Hammer. It's also acceptable to use one leg of a 240 volt GFCI breaker to feed a 120 volt circuit.

Interesting! Apparently fans manufactured after Jan 2022 have the new boards which are not impacted by higher voltages from lithium chargers. Fans with a serial number starting with 22 should have the new board. I should be in the clear. . . darn! Thought I had a new project there for a moment!

Don, Take a look at the post "Norcold fridge hinge availibility issues." There are some alternate solutions and links to videos to install new hinges, which otherwise can be tricky. Also note that the IFiXiFi aftermarket hinges don't have the stop that prevents the door from opening greater than 90 degrees. Personally, I think that's a good thing because that's what caused mine to break in the first place. The IFiXiFi hinges have good springs that holds the door tightly closed. This Dometic hinge installation video was really helpful and it is simular to the Norcold design.

No worries yet! Not all is lost! There are already companies making aftermarket parts and I’m sure there will be more coming because these units are used all over the world and there is still a demand for parts. I wouldn’t rush out to buy new spare boards without first checking what aftermarket parts are available for your model. Companies like Dinosaur Electronics already sell generic replacement DC boards that fit most Norcold units. Even Amazon carries an aftermarket power board. I’ve previously posted about an Oregon company IFiXiFi that makes quality aftermarket freezer door hinges that are also known to fail and have not been otherwise available. Cheers! Geoff

FYI, the ignitor is polarity sensitive and can be damaged if the 12v power wires are connected wrong. The part number for a new one is 50804 and they are around $40. Check with one of the on-line RV parts stores, and don't trust them if they don't have a contact phone. Or you can try calling Dometic directly. I once had trouble identifying a part for that stove, and Dometic was also unsure of the part number. They ended up sending a box of various parts for free! I think I called them using one of these numbers: 📞 Please contact our support team: 1 (818) 253-1322 Toll Free: 1 (866) 840-0321 📞 Please contact our support team: 1-800-544-4881

Reading your post peaked my curiosity about the Truma, particularly from the mention of a Temperature Sensor. . . which is typically part of the thermostat. So I looked-up the Combi and sure enough, there is a Temperature Sensor that is separate from the control panel. Accordingly, there is a temperature off-set adjustment in the control panel to account for temperature variances depending on where the sensor is mounted verses the room temperature. Perhaps that was inadvertently reset, which could account for your temperature miss-match. I’d check that first. Review your manual for instructions on how to change the off-set. I don’t know where the sensor could be mounted, but it shouldn’t be too difficult to find by following the wire from the unit. It’s probably a simple thermistor, basically a resistor that changes resistance with temperature change. These are easy to test with a multimeter in the Ohms setting. If the resistance value changes with a little heat applied from your fingers, then it’s probably okay. Let us know what you find and good luck. Cheers! Geoff

It’s unfortunate that your Xantrex died, and it sounds like the installer charged you full price for the unit, which is normal practice. But you saved a lot more on the installation cost by replacing it with another Xantrex because they didn't have to fit a different sized display or make wiring changes. Victron's are nice, especially if you have other Victron components all linked together. But I also like the Xantrex units, they are generally reliable and they have good lithium charging profiles, and they are very simple to set-up and use. FYI, be sure to check and re-torque your wire connections after using it. In last weeks YouTube episode of “Happily Ever Hanks,” their recently installed Victron Multiplus literally burned up! They don’t know why at this point, but in my opinion it was probably a loose connection. Cheers! Geoff

Although fiberglass is not conductive, the frame, bumpers and hitch are! It's possible for a trained person with the right equipment to check if the neutral is bonded at the pedestal. But there is no quick test plug-in device. It has long been the case that the neutral must be bonded to ground only at the main service. However, there are probably tens of millions of sub panels that are incorrectly grounded. But there are also many other improper wiring issues that are even more significant hazards. There is an old electrician's saying about apprentices, handyman's, and DIY'ers; "They know enough to be dangerous." Just be wary of armchair advice, it's what they don't know that will get you! Cheers! Geoff

Your friend is correct! The Oliver’s Progressive Industries Power Management System will shut-off power for an “open ground,” but it does not comply with the 2026 NEC changes that also requires monitoring for an “energized ground.” Either of these conditions can result in a “hot skin” shock hazard! Cheers! Geoff

Ollie in the Wild West! We were one of only a few travel trailers to ever camp at the historic Cerro Gordo Silver Mine and Ghost Town, which is 8,500 feet in the California Sierra Nevada Mountains. I took the Ollie up there while doing volunteer electrical work on a 150-year-old cabin that’s being turned into a recording studio. The road to Cerro Gordo is challenging and requires a high-clearance, sometimes even a 4-wheel drive. I had to use 4-low a few times to make it up the 8-mile access road with a significant elevation gain of 5,000-feet. The dirt road winds through narrow rocky canyons, switchbacks, steep shelves, and washboards. I was pleasantly surprised with the Oliver’s off-roading performance; the stock springs and shocks have over 30k miles and they worked perfectly to absorb the bumps and ruts without much bouncing or swaying! At its peak in the 1870s, Cerro Gordo had a population of around 5,000, and it was the largest producer of silver in the United States. It was like stepping back in time, and the views and sunsets were stunning. While the town is private property, it’s open daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. for self-guided and sometimes guided tours. It is considered one of the best-preserved ghost towns with interesting buildings and equipment, including the mine, a museum, boarding houses, and even the original brothel. Unfortunately, the famous American Hotel burned down a few years ago, but it has been completely rebuilt and is close to reopening. The town is featured in the YouTube channel “Ghost Town Living,” and they have collaborated with other popular YouTube channels for mine exploration and various projects. Cerro Gordo is located near Lone Pine just off the famous U.S. Route 395, on the road to Death Valley. Cheers, Geoff