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  1. [Note a version of this was originally posted in the Oliver Trailer Owners Facebook group - wanted to share it here as well.] Quick tip: if you fill your fresh tank and then can’t get the pump to pull you can break the suction lock by hooking up to the boondocking port and running water through the pump into the tank. Full details below. Thanks to the authors of several threads that I can't find for the life of me again that suggested the cup fill, city water, and the boondock method that ultimately worked for me. If I can ever find those posts again, I will properly credit them. Full details Picked up Reset LE I Hull 1030 today after first year service at the mothership. Staying tonight at the campground, and since it’s predicted to be 20F overnight did not want to leave a hose out to freeze. So, I put a half load in the fresh tank for onboard water needs. I know the pump was working at drop off since we did a Harvest Host night on the way out and all worked fine. After filling the fresh tank, I started the pump and it ran - but ran continuously. No water flow at the kitchen or bathroom sinks. Based on posts in this forum I checked filter screen for plastic chips. While there were a few in there it was not enough to block flow completely. I also used the trick of filling the filter screen cup with water to try to get it to prime. No joy. Of course, service is gone for the weekend at this point, so we are alone on the campground trying to figure out what to do. Searching the forums turns up the suggestion to fill the city water side then switch to tanks. Did that and did not get the pump to prime after switching back to the fresh tank. Finally came across the idea for breaking a vacuum lock through the boondocking port. Hooked up the campground water to the boondock port with valves in boondock configuration. I turned on the water and ran the pump for about 5 seconds while I could hear the tank filling from the boondock port. Turned off the water to the boondock port and reconfigured the valves to normal and started the pump. Got pressure and flow immediately. Success and no frozen hoses overnight.
  2. Tagging this as LE I as I am not sure how similar the LE I and LE II kitchen units are. Would appreciate all thoughts and any references to a prior post if I missed it in my search this morning. LE I Hull 1030 "Reset" 2022 Vintage Summary Following temps in the low 20 F in the factory campground there is no water coming out of the hot side of the kitchen faucet. It was working when we went to bed the night before. Hot water (Truma) was left on overnight at full power due to the projected overnight temps. Bath sink hot side is working fine - flow and temp of the water are normal. Kitchen sink cold side is working fine with normal flow. Nothing comes out when you switch to full hot. Furnace was run all night at 66 F. All other interior systems appear normal. We are currently running on internal fresh water tank, no city water connection due to temps. Pump function appears normal, no starts when we are not using water that would indicate a leak currently. Supposition Assuming that the hot water has a "T" somewhere in the system and the line froze between the "T" and the Kitchen Sink. Should this be possible in an Oliver with the interior heat on? Or is this a red herring caused by me jumping to conclusions from the amount of frost on the exterior wall. 🙂 Question Has anyone else seen this occur? What other things should I check? What am I overlooking that makes this a simple fix?
  3. After reading @VBistro's excellent write up ( Propane Tank Mod - Installation of GasStop Valves ) on adding GasStop safety valves to LE II Hull #953 I decided that I wanted to tackle that on "Reset" LE I Hull #1030. However, as LE I owners know on the forum, what working on an LE II may or may not work on an LE I. When I put the gas stops on the LE I it was apparent that the LE I has a shorter propane box than the LE II, making the end of the hoses stick out of the box and preventing the lid from fitting correctly. I had to pull the GasStop valves off and re-evaluate. I really wanted those GasStop units on there. 🙂 Tried re-orienting the tanks, shifting hoses, etc. but nothing worked. So, I started digging around and found hoses with 90-degree heads. That solved the distance to the front problem. However – the replacement hose length was longer than the original hoses and ended up with a second bend in the line that – while technically within spec – did not make me happy for having done the work. So here is the solution that I finally came up with. Be aware that there are a good number of joints here – make sure you are comfortable with (1) gas, (2) wrenches, (3) Sealing cream or tape for gas, and that you test for leaks on each and every joint. Soapy water works great, if you know a home brewer or commercial kitchen operator Star San bubbles like crazy at the smallest leak and is a literal lifesaver in this case. Of specific note: This bit of info from @John E Davies is critical. At least for me, when I removed the old hoses, I could not get the old check valve off. It was so tightly sealed that I initially assumed that it was part of the original hose. I am including the replacement for the check valve in the parts as you will need to be able to remove it and palace it on the new 90-degree hose, or put a replacement on the new hose. Parts List (I have referenced Manufacturer Websites, most are available through Amazon as well) Quantity is for both tanks. 1) 2 GasStop Propane Shut-off Valves - Qty 2 GasStop – Use Gas Safer With GasStop (gasstopusa.com) https://gasstopusa.com/ 2) 90° Propane Pigtail Hose (12″, Rubber) - Qty 2 Product details – GasGear (gas-gear.com) https://gas-gear.com/product-details/#product1 3) ¼” NPT BRASS Street Elbows (double-check the size of your particular fitting) - Qty 4 Everbilt 1/4 in. MIP x 1/4 in. FIP 90-Degree Brass Street Elbow Fitting 802099 - The Home Depot https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-4-in-MIP-x-1-4-in-FIP-90-Degree-Brass-Street-Elbow-Fitting-802099/300095976 4) Pipe Thread Sealant (specifically formulated for gasses) -Qty 1 RectorSeal 1.75 oz. #5 Pipe Thread Sealant 25790 - The Home Depot https://www.homedepot.com/p/RectorSeal-1-75-oz-5-Pipe-Thread-Sealant-25790/100144191 5) Low Pressure Fitting - 1 / 4" M NPT x 1 / 4" F Inverted Flare w / Check Valve - Qty 2 Low Pressure Fitting (camco.net) https://www.camco.net/low-pressure-fitting-1-4-m-npt-x-1-4-f-inverted-flare-w-check-valve-59954 Method (Copied and expanded from original post) Detach propane hose from the ¼” straight NPT fitting at the regulator Remove the straight ¼” fitting at the low pressure regulator Remove the ACME connection at the propane tank Clean as much old pipe thread sealant as you can from both the regulator side and the hose side, being careful not to let any shavings enter the regulator Apply thread sealant to the male end of the new elbow fitting and install it at the low pressure regulator. Tighten to position the female end away from the trailer, toward the hitch. Place a second elbow fitting into the first, applying thread sealant to the male end. Tighten to position the female end pointing downward. This next step represents a preference thing for me. I feel that attaching the check valve to the new 90 degree hose before attaching the hose to the downward facing female elbow works better, as the end of the hose is an odd size for which I did not have a wrench requiring me to use an adjustable crescent wrench. Proper tool may be a small pipe wrench, which was not to hand. As always, apply sealant to the male threads and tighten firmly. Apply thread sealant to the check fitting’s male end and screw it onto the street elbow. You can use a pipe or crescent wrench to snug this connection. This is the connection where I ended up with a leak, as the dangling hose can make you think that you have it connected but in realith the hose is just binding. Re-attach gas stop to propane tank and new 90 degree hose to gas stop. Let sealant cure for 24 hours Pressurize system and leak test! Note – if your tank is full and the gas stop shows “low” this is a good indication of a leak. Here are some photos of the finished project. Again thanks to @VBistro, @MarkV, and @John E Davies for the original post and follow-ups for this great idea. I hope this helps LE I owners in making this modification to their Oliver.
  4. Boondocking with no hookups in Elite 1. Running the furnace. Thermostat fan speed set to Auto. The AC fan is not running, but I am hearing a strange "clicking" sound coming from AC. It sounds as if something is trying to cycle on/off... Any ideas?
  5. Hi does anyone have any suggestions on what the best way would be to remove old caulk on my 2021 Oliver LE 1? Also any suggestions on what type of cualk to use? Thank you
  6. Has anybody repositioned the hanging rod in the closet? I have an Elite 1 (2021 model). The hanging rod is too close to the door to be very useful for hanging clothes. I have searched the forum for various topics, but haven't found any threads on this topic. I wonder if anybody has done this mod? TIA - Bill
  7. Hi I have a 2021 EL The outside rubber gasket around the window is getting spotted discoloring. Is there a way to clean it?
  8. This is off Toyo's website. Scroll down to page 23 to start LT metric tires for pressure/load ratings. https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf Dave
  9. When we arrived home today from a nine week trip I plugged into my new (and operating) 30 amp receptacle and no juice whatsoever. Very strange. No tripped GFI to reset under dinette (couldn't turn on or off). The main breakers were fine but I did reset in case. 12 volt works fine but I really need my A/C (in Florida). Not sure what to check. Inverter? Or other gizmo I am not aware of? Please help. I also tried hooking up to the receptacle in front of trailer but still nothing. Not getting any 110 juice to inside of trailer at all.
  10. Makes the pricing and functionality on the Elite 1 look pretty nice…granted it is lighter. https://www.airstream.com/configurator/tt/complete/?model=20&length=16&floorplan=basecamp-16&decor=rei&options=732,723,733,636
  11. I split this from another topic so that others might notice it, and respond if they are also having difficulty attaching photos to their posts. @Trainman and @DunnYet, what type of devices and browser are you using? Perhaps we have a glitch in our software? I'm using an android phone, and Chrome, and haven't experienced any issues. I'm curious if other members are also having problems attaching photos. Thank you.
  12. Wanted to provide my experiences with our first trip home from the factory with 2022 Subaru Ascent Limited “Blue Moose” and Oliver Elite I Hull #1030 “Reset.” Your mileage and experience may vary from mine. Note: I’m missing some numbers here (intended to stop at a scale and get weights) so those will either be added to the comments or edited directly into this post at a later date. The Tow Vehicle Blue Moose is a 2022 Model Year Limited trim line in the 8 seat (middle bench seat) version. We went with the Limited for the middle bench seat as we anticipated it being a cargo platform more than a seat. We opted for the factory towing package, which includes pre-wired 4 and 7 pin receivers as well as an under dash pre-wired brake controller plug in. Rated towing capacity is 5,000 lbs on the 2 inch hitch receiver. We opted not to purchase the Subaru hitch and ball, instead opting for an aftermarket hitch and ball. Brake Controller I installed a Redarc Tow Pro Elite V3 unit behind the dash secured with zip ties and automotive adhesive tape to the beam behind the steering wheel. Unfortunately, I did not take photos but I may go back and get those and add to a separate article. The Redarc unit stock cable matches up perfectly with the Subaru brake controller harness provided with the factory tow package – connect color to color. On this trip I ran the controller in proportional mode at setting 3 – will likely move to 5 on the next run. This likely deserves it’s own writeup and I would appreciate collaboration with other on the forum regarding your setup, testing and experience with the Redarc. Towing Setup After reading a large number of different opinions on hitch height, I opted for a 2-inch drop / 4-inch rise hitch and installed it in the 4-inch rise position. This was anticipating a 2-inch sink once Reset was connected. However, it turned out that even with all the items in the back of the ascent that would eventually move to the trailer, the 4-inch rise was way too high and we flipped it to the 2-inch drop side during delivery. Pulling out of the bay we were slightly nose down on the trailer, however once we moved the cold food, the trailer furnishings, and the cooking gear the weight shifted and the tow vehicle and trailer rode almost precisely level. I think that once we put our normal camping load in we may end up needing to move to an effectively “flat” hitch. I am planning to add the new Weigh-Safe Ball with an integrated scale to get more precise measurements of tongue weight. Another future edit. Towing Experience We set up our return trip using the 3 hours / 300 miles guidelines, even though we had towed our prior trailer much longer days in the past. Our goal was to be able to work through the launch and landing process carefully, and then have a shorter drive each day to learn the feel of the trailer. The first day (Hohenwald to Memphis) I limited speed to 65 mph max as that was the max on our previous setup. Stability was rock solid, engine RPM’s drifted in the high 1k to low 3k depending on the hills. We had no issues on the “back-roads” section between Hohenwald and Lexington, handling both the curves and ups and downs of the hills. We were driving in intermittent rain at slightly above freezing temperatures and had no traction or steering problems. The engine spent no significant time above 2500 RPM at the mid 40’s speeds. Once we pulled onto the highway, I brought it up to 65 mph and allowed the Eyesight driven adaptive cruse control to take over. The Ascent has a tendency to gear high in Adaptive cruse, generally adding 300 to 500 RPM onto what a careful human foot can achieve. Engine RPM settled into the 2-3k band with the instant gas milage reading settling around 14 MPG. Based on mileage calculation filling up at the fuel pump, the tank average was 12.92, however there was some significant idling time with warming up the car and also having it running while doing pre-launch activity in the morning. Second day was Memphis to Little Rock. Temperatures were cold and we spent some time during the day with a crosswind. Again, the Elite I was rock steady. At about the midway point I decided to start edging up the speed, first to 70 then to 75. Making measured steady passes of big trucks while towing was a new experience from our prior unit, which due to being light would get very tail happy above 60. Engine RPM drifted higher as I moved up to 75, settling in at 3,500 for the majority of the day and breaking the 4k line on the occasional hill pass. Even at 75 in the light crosswind Reset followed true, not giving any indication of wanting to move side to side. Display MPG dropped to the mid 13 mid, and tank fill calculation was 13.13 for the day. Final day we decided to make the Little Rock to Dallas leg a single run. The day was a repeat of the prior day – most of the day spent between 70 and 75 where permitted and display MPG in the low 13s given the longer stretches above 70. Tank fill MPG was 13.18 for the day. Observations The Ascent + Elite I combination has me impressed. If you need a “daily driver” that is a car frame and want something with a quiet comfortable ride, the Ascent made for an excellent long distance vehicle. It steers like a much smaller vehicle, and offers a solid feel both with and without a towing load. I will update this with better weight, hitch height information, and future impressions as we go forward, but my hope is this this info will help others considering this equipment combination. Safe travels all! 20220224_143014929_iOS.jpg
  13. Dewinterized, three nights of cold and learning to connect and disconnect the systems in sub-freezing weather. Arrived back in Duncanville with a list of things needed - waterproof thermal gloves being on the top of the list 🤪and installing the quick connects for the hose ports right after that. ”Blue Moose” towed our Elite I great through the hills of Tennessee and “Reset” was rock solid at highway speeds. No real workout for the Redarc brake controller this trip, even though the threat of ice and freezing rain has us worried. Managed to complete the rewinterizing process in the driveway and likely set till the Oliver Rally in May - unless we can make time for a quick trip before that. Till then just studying the stack of manuals and looking forward to being on the road again. Cheers all!
  14. Greetings -- I'm weighing decisions with my Oliver order. I toured the e2 over a year ago, and I'm hoping to tour the e1 very soon, because I want to be SURE that I really need the extra weight, space, and expense of the e2. I'm a single person who hopes to have friends join me on long sojourns now and then. I love to cook and plan to make all of my food from scratch (it's a thing). Therefore, part of the 'extra space' in the e2 that I consider important is actually the ability to carry more food and water. As a self-supported adventure bicyclist, clothes don't weigh more than about 20 pounds. When I talked options with the sales team, I was very surprised that they couldn't cite the weight of any of the options. How can that be? Many options are tempting, but maybe superfluous and if they limit my food and water capacity, I'll tend to rule them out. Right now I am considering many options including 2022 Power Package for e2 - Lithium Pro package: lithium batteries, solar panels with charge controller, micro-air easy start for a/c, 3000 watt pro inverter [$9,500]; 2022 Outdoor Pro - 30# propane tanks, quick connects, storage basket, rear bumper receiver, 30 amp convenience connection [$2,000]; convection microwave composting toilet tankless water heater (good? bad?) Cell phone booster & WiFi booster backup camera (though now I'm beginning to believe that the new trucks will ALL come with one?) Anderson no-sway hitch Can anyone let me know what their final build-out actually weighed with same or similar options? Better yet, has anyone discovered the weights of any of these features? Thanks!
  15. On our most recent outing one of our battery tray latches failed. The pin on the left/fore side of the battery tray was totally missing as was the rivet/pin on which the rear of the latch pawl pivots. Fortunately I found the latch pawl itself loose in the battery compartment. Our temporary fix to get us home included tie wraps and, of course, duct tape to secure the latch pawl in place. The right (aft) side battery tray latch was not affected. Until such time we can arrange a permanent repair, I'm confident that our semi-permanent solution pictured below will serve to keep the tray secure. It consists of a stainless steel anchor shackle holding the latch pawl in place so that it cannot be raised whatsoever, thereby preventing the battery tray from sliding out. I found that the 3/16" shackle fits perfectly, with the anchor shackle pin fitting snugly in the holes. For reference the particular shackle I used is made by National Hardware, #N100-347 and available at Lowe's. Hopefully this information is helpful to those who may experience the same failure. Be safe everyone. - Brian
  16. I did search the forums for "locking wheel chocks" before posting this and didn't find much. I know there will be many opinions/experiences on this, but I will go with the consensus, I think, because it doesn't look like a huge investment to get these (if most agree it adds even a modicum of deterrent value as weighed against the cost/time to use them, etc.), once a few people weigh in. Locking Wheel Chocks. On Amazon. Because I will be leaving the Ollie Elite 1 unhitched when I have to run errands, etc. and don't want to be the low-hanging fruit, especially if there are simple things to do. I do NOT mind taking the time to do things relating to security (to be clear), ever. So the "hassle" or "too many keys" factor is irrelevant (for ME). The peace of mind factor, however illusory it may be IRL ("anyone can steal anything if they want it badly enough," yep I know) would be worth this unless, as I said, everyone weighs in and says "Totally useless!" With the exclamation point. Heh. Thanks all!
  17. I am getting the 2021 Elite 1 (with the Anderson hitch). Already know opinions on the Anderson, so that's not why I am posting. What I need, if anyone would be so kind as to help, is to know what I need to SECURE the trailer, hitch, etc. so that when I park (truck and trailer hitched together) and go walking or whatever, they are still together (as in "not stolen"), and also so that when I unhitch the truck and drive the truck somewhere leaving the trailer parked (at a site, etc.) no one can swipe the trailer. (I want to do the best I can to secure it all, basically, at least, for now. I will not be staying in "iffy" places. I am new, brand new. And having a helluva time understanding some of this. I emailed my fabulous sales rep and I am still just confused (it's not the rep's fault!). So can you guys take a look at this and help me understand in VERY simple YES OR NO answers, a couple quick things? 1. I bought this. 2. I bought this. And I already had one of those round keyed locks one uses to lock a storage space in a self-storage facility. 3. Nice rep says I need this. 4. Nice rep says I need this. DO I RETURN the two items I bought (#1 and #2 above), because Amazon WILL still let me as of now? AND THEN INSTEAD get the two items shown in #3 and #4? If YES, can someone give me a link to those two items on Amazon, as I don't know the brand, or what goes with my truck or the Andersen, etc. correctly. Thanks! Tow Vehicle is Class IV Receiver, if that matters.
  18. Hiya, Have been told that I should invest in a 50’ quality sewer hose. My sales rep at OTT says a 20’ sewer hose comes w my 2021 Ollie Elite 1 (delivery late Jan 2021) but then added this: “Though we do supply a 20’ sewage hose, if you wanted to buy another one, you can. There are higher grade ones online.” Anyone point me to a good one? I’ve reserved a couple campgrounds and reviews at a few say it’s hard to reach the connection point (whatever that’s called) and it sounds like a good quality sewer hose will be good to have? The new Ollie also comes with a water hose but on various recs I bought a 25’ heated water hose. I can’t put too much more stuff in my Ram truck to make the trip to Hohenwald in late Jan 2021, so I wondered if, aside from chocks and the leveler blocks — I should try to get these other things NOW. It’s gonna be COLD in TN, possibly snow. I don’t wanna have frozen pipes or hoses. Staying at David Crockett SP on OTT the first night and booked extra days and nights there so I can get set up for cold and have OTT nearby if anything is wrong etc. Noob and towing toward TX in early Feb. Thanks, all.
  19. Hi! We are Benjamin & Alexandra from Chicago Illinois, and we just picked up our Legacy Elite about a month ago. So far we've enjoyed just all the nights in our Ollie before we put it to bed for the cold & snowy winter! We've both been hiking, canoeing, cycling and camping since forever under tarps, in tents and in a pop-up trailer. This is our first foray into a hard-sided camper with creature comforts so that's something of a new experience. Most of our camping has been in the Sunset Lakes Resort, Chillicothe and several other places in southern Illinois. We are expecting to revisit some old favorites and also to begin ranging further afield once spring arrives.
  20. Hi all, Saw the big thread on Snow Chains. Still wondering, if my Tow Vehicle is a Ram 1500 4x4, and I arrive (or try to) in Hohenwald in Jan 2021 to pick up Elite 1, and it either has snowed or will snow, should I have chains for the Elite 1? If so, link to which ones? For that matter, would I need chains on the Ram truck (Rebel with non-snow-tires that came with it)? I lived at 8000 ft in the mts once where it snowed a lot and often, and had a little (as in very small and light, base model, NON 4x4) Mazda B2000 pickup and used chains and got to where I could put ‘em on in my sleep, no biggie. But I have never towed a trailer in snow conditions much less an Elite 1. Will check the manual for the Ram 1500 4x4 Rebel re: chains, but thought I would ask here re: chains for a 2021 Elite 1 whether the Rebel “requires” chains or not. I know there are many factors (how much snow, where you’re “going” in the snow conditions, on and on). Just thought I’d ask “generally” here first. Can also call my OTT sales rep about this — still time to prep. Thanks.
  21. Seriously, I have been overwhelmed a bit and unable to "focus" on what exactly I need to buy in advance and BRING with me to the delivery day of the Elite 1 in TN. As simple as I can get it, it appears I ONLY need to buy-in-advance, and bring with me, these things: 1. Chocks. How many of these do I BUY? Exactly how many. 2. Something called "leveling blocks." I have no idea what these do or how to use them (yet), waiting for Delivery Day explanations (which I will video using my phone). But the sales rep included a pic from Amazon (no LINK), so I don't know where these are on Amazon, but I am attaching the pic he sent (said they were on Amazon, but I cannot find anything with this photo) and said these would be something to bring WITH me on delivery day. Are these the leveling blocks he means? 3. A Reese "receiver hitch: for a 2" receiver (which my 2021 Ram 1500 has) -- I believe this is the "ball"-thingy as I call it, techy of me! -- and my sales rep says with a 3"-4" drop? Would this one do? Note: many times I go to Amazon (prefer to buy there as I have prime and it's just easier), and it will say at the top of a link I followed, "Does not work with your vehicle.") Apparently I do not NEED TO BRING ANYTHING ELSE. No hoses. No extension cords. No adapters. Nothing, right? The Elite 1 delivery people will supply all else I need to hook up at the David Crockett State Park that night, with electric, water, and sewer? Am I correct? Please tell me I am correct. This is really driving me nuts at this point. I mean that in the nicest and warmest tone possible and hope you can understand how overwhelming this can be for a true newbie. 🙂 Thanks.
  22. I know, weird question, but for you Elite 1 owners: I use a MacBook Pro but I connect it to a large curved desktop monitor — a 38-incher — yep — and I love it and use it for what I do. Love as in “I will do whatever I have to in order to keep it, yes, even in the Elite 1, if at all possible, and I don’t care how much ‘counterspace” it uses long as I can plug that puppy in” — that level of love. Heh. I know this sounds insane to some (all?). But can anyone with a late model Elite 1 (standard floor plan) tell me the various counter dimensions of the table spaces in the Elite 1? Can I cram this thing on top of the smaller table (dinette?) on the side? Hoping to set it up and keep it set up. I’m a nerd. MacBook Pro screen too small. Too used to the big curved monitor now. Thanks for not laughing.
  23. Hi all. There is a post here as to all the spaces and available storage on the Elite II, but is it not different for an Elite 1? (I.e., less space to store your clothing, kitchen stuff, whatever, inside.) If so, and any Elite 1 owners (late models? I am getting a 2021 in Jan) know any dimensions and such, I’m all ears. I have NO idea how much “stuff” I can fit into Elite 1. And I have to downsize (further than I already have) because I’mma go FT. I have watched the Ollie 1 walk-through video and it’s just hard to tell really how much the closet will hold, how much space for shoes, kitchen stuff, everything. If anyone can give me an idea — I know it’s hard to say “Four jackets, 3 pairs of jeans,” etc. — but any idea at all would really help. Thanks!
  24. I did search “storage Elite I” etc. And came up empty. Can any Elite I owners verify that these Elite II storage cubby pics and features and sizes/locations are the same on Elite I (2021)? Or I can start a new thread (or a mod can move this or delete it?). I have wondered if there are enough diffs between I and II to warrant making a new “section” on the forum for Elite I stuff? Maybe?
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