Entry Steps Restoration

[jd1923]

Hull #113 now being 8 years old has needed a lot of upgrades and M&R our first year of ownership. A point of contention as always been the manual stairs, the back-breaking effort it takes to pull them down, metal on metal, and more so to put them up.

I had greased the moving parts, and it did not seem to help much. Pressure washing it last time, an edge of the slip-resistant tape came off. Prior owner had wrapped the steps with some kind of rubber cushion and that dirtied the steps where it laid. They looked awful. It was time for proper restoration!

I disassembled all components of the stairs so they could be cleaned and reconditioned in my shop. If you do this, make sure you have everything you need out of the Oliver as it is very difficult to get inside afterwards!

First, I used a heat gun to loosen the glue on the tape and scraped it off. The glue residue was intense. I used 3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner, and it barely budged it. The rest I sanded off using a cordless Dewalt orbital sander and near a dozen sanding discs. There are better sanding tools, but this is what I had. After more and more detail sanding the aluminum started to look pretty good.

The key detail work to getting the stairs to operate easier was to file the groove the axle slides within (see pic 2). I used a small hand file and spent an hour working it in the direction of the movement. Most of the machining marks were 90 degrees the wrong direction. I only sanded this groove on the base as I did not want to detail that whole frame, just the steps.

I used this product for the stair surfaces: Amazon.com: 3M Safety-Walk Slip Resistant Tape, 4 in x 15 ft, Anti Slip Tape, Adhere Without Wrinkling, Curling, Tearing, Shrinking or Lifting, Self-Adhesive Backing For Quick & Easy Application (610B-R4X180) : Industrial & Scientific

After sanding and placement of the anti-slip tape, I applied an automotive ceramic coating to all the sanded aluminum to slow oxidation. Got to this point today. Friday I will have time to remount. The frame is held on with 4 standard carriage bolts and nylon locknuts. The two stairs are connected to each other with a short, geared press-fit specialty bolt with a Torx-55 head, that are not easy to remove. Pictures were taken before applying the ceramic coating. It should look great when mounted. Boy, I hate sanding and polishing work! 🤣

[ScubaRx]

John, that is good looking work. The oldest of these double steps have now been on the road for over 10 years. The first 50 or so trailers came with a folding single step. Many of the early builds had their single step replaced with the double ones.

Since aluminum has some sort of natural tendency to stick or bind on itself, most all owners of trailers older than a few years have likely encountered this issue. I've always just hit it with a little WD-40 and called it good. MY solution in no way compares to what you've done, but it will last long enough to get you home from a month long trip when you can do a really good job.

Thanks for the write-up.

[rich.dev]

3 hours ago, jd1923 said:

After sanding and placement of the anti-slip tape, I applied an automotive ceramic coating to all the sanded aluminum to slow oxidation.

Looking good John! Do you maybe have a link to the ceramic coating you used? 

[jd1923]

20 hours ago, rich.dev said:

Looking good John! Do you maybe have a link to the ceramic coating you used? 

Rich, I cannot swear by this product, just something I chose two years ago (wow, price has gone up 50%). The product works likes a paste wax easy to hand buff: Amazon.com: McKee's 37 Ceramic Wheel Sealant | Top Coat Polish, Brake Dust Repellent, and Ceramic Protectant for Wheels… : Automotive

When restoring our '08 GX470, I purchased new KMC wheels. I felt the need to protect this investment for dirt roads we travel. As soon as Tire Rack delivered the wheel/tire combo, Chris helped with her better patience and rubbed this product into every opening of the new wheels. I rubbed it out and we worked a second coat.

I don't have a recent picture, but they still look very nice. We run them through the car wash, and I pressure washed them a few times to clean within. I hope the Oliver steps look as good in a few years or more. I was thinking what can I use to slow aluminum oxidation after such deep sanding? I did some online looking and ceramic came up when I remembered, I have a tub of that!

Edited Friday at 06:48 AM by jd1923
typos

[Ronbrink]

3 hours ago, jd1923 said:

I was thinking what can I use to slow aluminum oxidation after such deep sanding?

If ever the times comes, I would consider having mine powder coated.

[jd1923]

6 hours ago, Ronbrink said:

If ever the times comes, I would consider having mine powder coated.

Black tread and white powder-coat steps to match the Ollie. That would be so cool! I didn't consider that for the expense and a couple days driving back and forth to Phoenix in the summer (been 115 down there lately). Too bad there are no metal cleaning or powder coating services up here.

[SeaDawg]

"If" I powdercoated the steps, I'd probably go with silver. Aluminum color. I treat mine with garage door silicone spray, and no issues. White would undoubtedly get really dirty looking, riding where they do.

The incredibly sturdy double step is standard for most of you, but it was an upgrade (years later) for those of us with 2008's. I cracked a rib on a crazy site trying to reach a footstool below the step. 2010? It flipped.  Anyway, one of the best upgrades, ever, standard for all you new folks. 

Edited Friday at 10:07 PM by SeaDawg

[jd1923]

I got ours done today and I asked Chris to walk on it first with her light touch. I didn't want to even climb aboard with my work shoes on! 🤣 Yes, they will get dirty again as soon, as we hit an Arizona dirt road, likely September.

Man, all-in-all this turned out really nice! Dirty later yes, but I can pull it down and put it up with one centered hand and just a light push. I did make a minor modification, adding washers to take up space on the axle, since there was about 3/8" of left to right slop (way too much). The added washers cut that in half. This is some of the issue in the difficulty in working the steps.

Anybody considering this full maintenance, order a new set of short splined Torx bolts from OTT first (see pic). These are very short and upon compression, they get somewhat deformed. I was able to rethread one, but not the other after many attempts. Temporarily I used a 5/16" bolt with nylock nut. I have rebuilt a half dozen old car and truck suspensions, done over 20 brake jobs and if I could not get these bolts to thread, most DIYers would not have a chance, I promise. I have another item or two I want to order from OTT and will likely by 3 of these. One to replace the bad one and a pair for the next time (unless they cost $20 each)!

The secret in getting the steps to push and pull smoothly is to file the up-n-down slanted groove where the axle lies (pic above). Then I lubed all contact point with Napa Sil-Glyde: Lubricant - Multi Purpose Sil-Glyde Lubricates 4oz. Plastic Tube BK 7651351 | Buy Online - NAPA Auto Parts (napaonline.com)

I've used this product in multiple brake jobs, rebuilding the calipers on my '84 Goldwing and more (lasting for YEARS now). After rubbing it into every contact point, the ends of the axle, every spacer and washer, the bottom edge where the steps contact the frame, and the frame contact points too (not a WD-40 fan)... Work the steps back and forth several times and then spend time removing all the excess, as excess grease collects dirt. I'm not going to fight with these steps anymore, and for years to come!