Steph and Dud B Posted August 9 Share Posted August 9 Now I'm back to @Rivernerd's suggestion. Get a multimeter, or someone who knows how to use one, and follow the electricity's path until you find the problem. Test your home outlet, test the power at the end of the shoreline cable, test the power at the back of the shoreline connector in the trailer, test the power at the EMS input, test the power where it enters the circuit breaker box, test the power coming into the GFCI outlet, test at the AC, and keep going down the line. But this means working around live power and knowing how to use the meter correctly. You might be approaching professional assistance territory. 3 Stephanie and Dudley from CT. 2022 LE2, Hull #1150: Eggcelsior. Tow vehicle: 2016 GMC Sierra 6.0 gas dually 4x4. Our Oliver journey: Steph and Dud B's RV Screed Where we've been RVing since 1999: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jd1923 Posted August 9 Share Posted August 9 11 minutes ago, Steph and Dud B said: Now I'm back to @Rivernerd's suggestion. Get a multimeter, or… Wish I could be there to help! Never witnessed a defect condition that would swap the hot and neutral readings. A faulty neutral makes some sense, but how does that happen when sitting at a campsite? Certainly replace the main 30A breaker. I would bypass it as a quick test, but I would not suggest this to anybody but a trained electrician. Too bad you do not have an inverter, as you could unplug from shore power and run on battery. I’m reading here daily to see if I can help, yet it’s difficult to troubleshoot virtually. Godspeed and wishes! 1 Chris & John in Prescott, AZ | 2016 EII #113 | '01 Ram 2500 Cummins! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Dorrer Posted Friday at 12:23 PM Share Posted Friday at 12:23 PM https://open.substack.com/pub/rvelectricity/p/how-to-test-your-rv-for-a-proper?r=nq2l8&utm_campaign=post&utm_medium=email Not sure whether this might apply by testing at the 30amp cord prongs while keeping the cord attached to your Oliver. John & Susan Dorrer, 2013 F250, 6.2 gasser, 4x4, 2022 Legacy Elite 2, twin beds, Hull #1045, Jolli Olli - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Dorrer Posted Friday at 02:27 PM Share Posted Friday at 02:27 PM (edited) I did post this on RV Electric, Mike Sokol's Facebook site. One answer was "It appears to be the transfer switch, if there is one." UPDATE, saw you don't have the front plug or transfer switch, so that is out of the equation. The general tone was the original poster should join their Facebook group so that dialog is back and forth, as they felt there was conflicting comments from the OP. Keep us all posted. Edited Friday at 04:36 PM by John Dorrer Updated Comment John & Susan Dorrer, 2013 F250, 6.2 gasser, 4x4, 2022 Legacy Elite 2, twin beds, Hull #1045, Jolli Olli - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Dorrer Posted Friday at 02:31 PM Share Posted Friday at 02:31 PM RVelectric by Mike Sokol Facebook John & Susan Dorrer, 2013 F250, 6.2 gasser, 4x4, 2022 Legacy Elite 2, twin beds, Hull #1045, Jolli Olli - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators mossemi Posted Friday at 07:22 PM Moderators Share Posted Friday at 07:22 PM 16 hours ago, Steph and Dud B said: But this means working around live power and knowing how to use the meter correctly. This is the area of testing where I like to use a non-contact voltage tester. Mossey 4 Mike and Krunch Lutz, FL 2017 LEII #193 “the dog house” Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRM Posted Friday at 08:14 PM Share Posted Friday at 08:14 PM 45 minutes ago, mossemi said: This is the area of testing where I like to use a non-contact voltage tester. Mossey Those work great to verify a hot leg is live, but it seems like he has that already out to the outlets according to his circuit tester. Someone is going to have to use a multimeter and check voltage from the hot leg to the neutral at each connection point between the EMS to wherever the problem is. My guess is a bad neutral connection somewhere or a bad EMS itself. 8 2010 Elite II, Hull #45. 2014 Toyota Sequoia Platinum 4WD 5.7 with tow package. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Collier and Joan Posted Monday at 06:00 PM Author Share Posted Monday at 06:00 PM I found out what was wrong with electrical in trailer. I open up the inline surge protector case and found a burnt wire, replaced wired, and 120 volt appliances and outlets worked, I still don’t understand even with a burnt wire the ems still showed no errors and 120 volts 2 2 1 2019 Oliver Legacy Elite II - Delivery Date Aug 29, 2019 Ford F150 XL Supercab - 3.5 EcoBoost Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jd1923 Posted Monday at 07:11 PM Share Posted Monday at 07:11 PM 1 hour ago, Collier and Joan said: I still don’t understand even with a burnt wire the ems still showed no errors and 120 volts. Many were saying a bad neutral and that’s what you found. The hot output has a current sensor around it. However, the EMS is monitoring input shore power, the hot out, but not the neutral on the output side. Good find! 2 Chris & John in Prescott, AZ | 2016 EII #113 | '01 Ram 2500 Cummins! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
katanapilot Posted Monday at 10:19 PM Share Posted Monday at 10:19 PM Probably another example of the need to check your 120 volt connections at the various lugs throughout your trailer. This isn't the first burnt wire found and reported on this forum. So far, I'm not aware of any fires that have been caused by these failures - but it's certainly a possibility. I will be going through our trailer and checking all of these connections when I install the new Victron components. 2 2020 Elite II Hull #628, Houghton Heat Pump, Victron MP2, SmartSolar, Orion, Cerbo, Lynx install in progress... TV - 2011 Toyota Tundra Crew Max Platinum 4WD, Magnuson Supercharger, OME suspension Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golfnut Posted Tuesday at 12:35 AM Share Posted Tuesday at 12:35 AM My unit is only 2 yrs, i will be checking mine. I have already had a connection come loose , H2O pump inop.. I,m glad things are working ok.. 2022 Elite I # 1179 | 2024 Tundra SR5 4x4 Crewmax. 5.5 ft. Bed. 3.31gears 10 spd.trans Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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