Valterra Electric Black Tank Dump Valve

[Galileo]

I swear - I tried to find a thread for this, but couldn’t.

Our black tank dump handle got SO hard to pull to open I was afraid it would snap off the T handle. The cable that operates the valve is about 12 feet long and has two 90 degree bends. I tried rerouting the cable to ease the radii, but it only helped a bit.

Oliver’s “fix” is installing an electric valve. They want ~$900 to do that upgrade.  I found the Valterra electric valve on Amazon for under $200 - and I’ve been known to be pretty handy, so I bought it.

The valve install is pretty easy - cramped quarters and the ability to work without seeing anything helps. The valve is in.

The electric switch is another matter. I haven’t quite settled on where to put it. 
I -think- I can cut a rectangular hole where the old valve was, but it looks to tight if possible.

Anybody else done this upgrade, and if so, where did you put the switch?

Anybody have this done by Oliver - and where did THEY put the switch?

 

Val

[rich.dev]

Thanks Val, I like it! Is this the one you installed? Ideal spot for the switch is where the pull handles are, so you can have an eye on the outside business!😊 How long are the dc wires for the switch and what gauge? Did you only switch out the black or black and grey? 
 

Edited January 17 by rich.dev

[Steph and Dud B]

Just in case, before you install an electric valve: If you disconnect the cable from the existing valve does the cable pull out of its sheath easily? If so, the resistance might be in the valve itself. That happened to us. Valve lubricant worked for a while but the valve eventually leaked and had to be replaced. Still cheaper than an electric valve and less to go wrong in the future. (Electric gate valves add a motor and wiring to a previously simple system.)

[Galileo]

Rich.dev,

Yes, that’s the one. 
Only swapped out the black because the grey is fine. Not sure how long the wires are. I’m good at splicing if it comes down to it.

 

Steph & Dud - 

The valve pushed in dead easy. So pretty sure the cable is binding in the sheath around the bends. And yes, I’m loathe to complicate simple systems, but if those systems don’t work…. Besides, this is the “fix” Oliver uses. Worst case scenario - you can actuate the valve manually - just have to go under the dinette seat.

 

V

[jd1923]

5 hours ago, Galileo said:

The valve install is pretty easy - cramped quarters and the ability to work without seeing anything helps. The valve is in.

And that's the hard part! Running wire and mounting switches NP!
Yes, of course more expensive with much greater functionality!

Thank you, I just added this to my Wishlist! If you are going to all the work of replacing the valve, I would certainly go this path. I like the short pull (backup) handle that would be more reliable than a 12 FT cable and simple electric motors are generally reliable. I replaced ALL my manual water valves to electric already. This is a no-brainer for our hull! This valve is rated 4.5 on Amazon with 200 reviews.

@rich.dev has the best idea, I think. Put the switches where the current handles are located. I would scrap the supplied wire harness (likely not long enough) and the supplied (awkward) switch and plate and buy 3 marine grade (waterproof) simple toggle switches, up for open and down means closed! They will fit in the holes left by the pull handles once removed.

Run stranded 14 AWG wire which should be fine since they use a 5A fuse in the switch. I would also relocate all fuses to my 12VDC positive bus. Handy since I relocated it to under the rear dinette seat. Better to have all fuses centrally located than at the switch or the motor (for all appliances).

I would replace all three (3) valves, sooner or later. Really dislike the one by the toilet that keeps the gray from backing up. How many times have we forgot that and have to climb back up in the trailer. All switches together, in the same outside location makes sense to me. We always have that rear hatch open when leaving a campsite anyway. Added a couple pics, food for thought, and thanks again for this idea! 😂

Edited January 17 by jd1923

[jd1923]

I just found something that may be better for those of us who have waste drain valves in good condition but with a hard pull or merely wanting to go electric. You do not have to remove the valves to install this motorized helper: https://www.barkermfg.com/auto-drains.html

 

[Galileo]

Good idea on the Barker valve “helper, but I already jumped on the Valterra electric valve.

That said:

@rich.dev “has the best idea, I think. Put the switches where the current handles are located. I would scrap the supplied wire harness (likely not long enough) and the supplied (awkward) switch and plate and buy 3 marine grade (waterproof) simple toggle switches, up for open and down means closed! They will fit in the holes left by the pull handles once removed.”

Yep - the supplied cable is only about 7 feet long - and needs to be twice that. As for the switch, it’s DPDT -with- a pilot light - so a bit special - though I can likely just do a separate pilot light. Pretty sure those two would fit into the existing T-handle hole and an extra one for the pilot light.

The connectors are another issue as the disconnect between the valve and the harness is fairly special - looks like a Molex knock-off to me. I’ll likely have to replace that connector with a more standard one.

Finally, I think I’ll piggyback the 12v power for the valve onto the curb side leveling jack. It’s right there in the same area, has a capable enough circuit, and is highly unlikely to be used at the same time.

So - though it’s not a drop-in solution, it’s still gonna be less expensive than paying Oliver to install it, and can be done on my own schedule. Until then - I have a “manual” valve that I have to go under the forward dinette seat to actuate.

 

V

[jd1923]

4 hours ago, Galileo said:

Good idea on the Barker valve “helper, but I already jumped on the Valterra electric valve.

Sure, I meant for others who don’t need a new valve but would like the power assist. I just ordered one to check it out. If it works out I’ll get a second 3” and one 1 1/2”.

I would really want the switches where the pull handles are. Or you could mount those switch plates just inside the rear storage on the wall to the streetside basement, easy to runs wires to get there.

Waterproof DPDT switches are common in toggle switches. I purchased these to run my motorized ball valves to replace the manual fresh water valves:

https://a.co/d/7vJmWl8

Edited January 18 by jd1923

[dewdev]

@jd1923 Good idea.

Although, I would question how waterproof those switches really are. The rubber boot does not do it for me.

Edited January 19 by dewdev

[jd1923]

1 minute ago, dewdev said:

@jd1923 Good idea.

Although, I would question how waterproof those switches really are. The rubber boot does not do it for me.

Yep, I get it Dewdev and you live up in the land of the Nor'easter! Last time it rained down here was September? No snow yet either. Several large capacity humidifiers running throughout our home! 

First, get better quality switches from a marine supply store. Drill the smallest possible hole and just add a thin bead of clear silicone inside the hole. I used these cheap Amazon switches for interior mounting, where being waterproof was not a concern. They've worked reliably for our fresh water motorized ball valves.

[Galileo]

23 hours ago, dewdev said:

@jd1923 Good idea.

Although, I would question how waterproof those switches really are. The rubber boot does not do it for me.

True - I’d call them “water resistant” or maybe even “spray resistant”.

A rubber boot over the toggle assumes the rear of the switch is in a sealed enclosure.

[jd1923]

1 hour ago, Galileo said:

... assumes the rear of the switch is in a sealed enclosure.

It certainly should be! The rear side of the waste valve pull handles is the basement under the streetside bed. The better quality switch was already mentioned and you could cut a simple cover plate to fit the recessed area with a rubber seal to cover the switches.

[jd1923]

On 1/18/2025 at 10:00 AM, Galileo said:

Good idea on the Barker valve “helper, but I already jumped on the Valterra electric valve.

I did buy the Barker product and then there was an Amazon "like new" Valterra valve so I thought I would get both to compare and later return one of them.

I believe you did good on the Valterra. Made in Mexico vs. USA but I like how it's an integrated unit. The motor is heavier and feels stronger running. Included is the valve and seals, the Barker kit contains motor, bracket and switch only and you may need a new valve to mount the Barker easily (handle vs. cable pull). The Valterra has the better wire harness and switch with both black/gray faceplates. At least you can recess the switch (cut large holes), both switches are too big! Not fond of the fuse in the faceplate, prefer the separate fuse wired at the bus. I powered both up and they are in the raised position as pictured.

Edited January 26 by jd1923

[rich.dev]

@Galileo and @jd1923 on either/or both the Barker and Valterra, can the switch be toggled to open the valve partially, or is it a fully open/close deal? 

Edited January 26 by rich.dev

[jd1923]

3 hours ago, rich.dev said:

@Galileo and @jd1923 on either/or both the Barker and Valterra, can the switch be toggled to open the valve partially, or is it a fully open/close deal? 

Rich, you caught me just in time! Leaving very soon to drive to Vegas (not towing today) to teach my PMP Prep class Mon-Thu this week. Next weekend heading to the Q with family and Oliver in tow! Hope to see you then.

Turns out the Barker can be set at any height. You can ease it open which can be helpful when letting gray go in the BLM or NF lands (yes, it is legal when at a distance from others and water sources). Of course, when dropping the black tank into a sewer/septic system you would rather release all waste quickly, valve full open.

Not the Valterra valve which is either all the way up or down. It must be due to the switch which could be replaced with another DPDT switch (pictured). The odd little breaker or reset button is odd. I would delete it adding a simple butt connector on the white wires in and out and wire a 5A fuse at the + bus. Without the faceplate this switch could be mounted where the pull handles are located, but I cannot determine if this switch is waterproof (unlikely).

Barker has a 1 1/2" valve model and I have not been able to find one in the Valterra brand. I want to motorize all 3 valves, especially the 1 1/2" valve which gates the gray water from the bathroom. It will be great to merely push a button and remove the pull handle from the bathroom! I will do this work Feb-Mar, weather and time depending.

[rich.dev]

Thanks John! 😊