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Posted

I have been chasing down the solution to a Norcold refrigeration problem for 18 months. My fridge worked well on AC, so so on DC and inadequately on propane. The best it would do on gas was 7-10 degrees in the freezer and only 50 in the fridg section. We do a lot of boondocking and really wanted to keep the gas option.

Here are the various steps I took one at a time without success: Pulled the fridge and cleaned the burner tube, changed the thermistor (3 times), changed the main board, checked the gas pressure, changed the thermostat and added a dual extra fan to the top, changed the DC board (one to the right of the main board), changed the eyebrow board, added venting, added insulation. All of these steps were recommended by techs who I paid.

The last tech I hired told me that I needed to replace the cooling unit since I was wanting to keep the existing model. Unfortunately, Norcold no longer makes the N412.3 model and replacement cooling units are out of stock. I was advised to find a cooling unit from a 3rd party, order it and then pay the tech to install it. The first cooling unit manufacturer that I contacted did not make units for this smaller fridge model and recommended talking to a guy in Olive Branch MS who rebuilds cooling unit.

When I spoke with this gentleman in MS on the phone, he was far more than helpful and told me that my cooling unit was not the problem. He told me to remove my burner and soak the orifice in a high percentage alcohol for a few hours, then blow it out with a compressor and reinstall.

Now mind you that my flame looked fine and didn’t seem to be a problem to me or to the two professionals that previously looked at it.

80 year old Mr. David Force, owner of Cooling Unit Warehouse explained that there was a paraffin buildup in my orifice and that although my flame’s appearance didn’t visibly change after cleaning it, the temperature of the flame had been slightly below the necessary temperature. He said that a 10-degree flame difference can change everything.

Bottom line, I followed David’s advice, the fridge has been working like a champ for 50 hours on propane so far.  I wish I had known this before I spent 18 months and 7-800 dollars on un-needed parts.

Nevertheless I am thankful that it works like it is supposed to so that we can head out next week for a month long trip.

 I'm posting this in hopes that someone can avoid a refrigerator adventure.

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Posted (edited)
9 hours ago, carnivore said:

Bottom line, I followed David’s advice, the fridge has been working like a champ for 50 hours on propane so far.

Steve,

Thank you for sharing your experience and glad to hear about your final solution/fix. This info may really help anyone with a similar issue. 
Safe travels on your trip!
-David

Edited by Patriot
  • Like 2

ALAZARCOCTDEGAIDILIAKSKYMEMDMAMOMTNENHNM

2020 OLEII - Hull #634 aka-  “XPLOR”

TV 2021 F350 6.7 liter Diesel Lariat Ultimate Tremor aka - “Beast of Burden”

Retro upgrades - Truma Aventa 13.5 AC, Alcan 5 leaf pack, Alcan HD shackles & HD wet bolts, 5200lb never lube axles.

XPEL 10 mil PPF front both front corners, 30 lb LP tanks, Sea Biscuit Front Cargo Storage box.

North Carolina 🇺🇸

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Posted
12 hours ago, carnivore said:

I have been chasing down the solution to a Norcold refrigeration problem for 18 months. My fridge worked well on AC, so so on DC and inadequately on propane. The best it would do on gas was 7-10 degrees in the freezer and only 50 in the fridg section. We do a lot of boondocking and really wanted to keep the gas option.

Here are the various steps I took one at a time without success: Pulled the fridge and cleaned the burner tube, changed the thermistor (3 times), changed the main board, checked the gas pressure, changed the thermostat and added a dual extra fan to the top, changed the DC board (one to the right of the main board), changed the eyebrow board, added venting, added insulation. All of these steps were recommended by techs who I paid.

The last tech I hired told me that I needed to replace the cooling unit since I was wanting to keep the existing model. Unfortunately, Norcold no longer makes the N412.3 model and replacement cooling units are out of stock. I was advised to find a cooling unit from a 3rd party, order it and then pay the tech to install it. The first cooling unit manufacturer that I contacted did not make units for this smaller fridge model and recommended talking to a guy in Olive Branch MS who rebuilds cooling unit.

When I spoke with this gentleman in MS on the phone, he was far more than helpful and told me that my cooling unit was not the problem. He told me to remove my burner and soak the orifice in a high percentage alcohol for a few hours, then blow it out with a compressor and reinstall.

Now mind you that my flame looked fine and didn’t seem to be a problem to me or to the two professionals that previously looked at it.

80 year old Mr. David Force, owner of Cooling Unit Warehouse explained that there was a paraffin buildup in my orifice and that although my flame’s appearance didn’t visibly change after cleaning it, the temperature of the flame had been slightly below the necessary temperature. He said that a 10-degree flame difference can change everything.

Bottom line, I followed David’s advice, the fridge has been working like a champ for 50 hours on propane so far.  I wish I had known this before I spent 18 months and 7-800 dollars on un-needed parts.

Nevertheless I am thankful that it works like it is supposed to so that we can head out next week for a month long trip.

 I'm posting this in hopes that someone can avoid a refrigerator adventure.

Awesome write-up. Thanks for taking the time to share your story.😊

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 John & Susan Dorrer, 2013 F250, 6.2 gasser, 4x4, 2022 Legacy Elite 2, twin beds, Hull #1045, Jolli Olli

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Posted
16 hours ago, carnivore said:

there was a paraffin buildup in my orifice

Any explanation of where the wax came from?

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Chris & John in Prescott, AZ | 2016 EII #113 | '01 Ram 2500 Cummins!

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, jd1923 said:

Any explanation of where the wax came from?

Great question Jd.

I opted to give AI a shot at this one 🤔and here is what I learned- 

 

AI Overview-

Wax buildup, often appearing as a yellow, oily, or petroleum jelly-like substance, can occur in the LP gas lines of refrigerators (and other propane appliances)

. This issue is primarily linked to impurities in the propane itself, specifically oily contaminants introduced during the filling of LP bottles. 

Causes of wax build-up

Impurities in Propane: LP gas, while primarily gaseous, can contain small amounts of oil and other contaminants. These can be introduced during the filling process at the propane supplier.

System Design: Certain parts of the LP system, like the SOV (solenoid operating valve) filter and the gas jet in Dometic or Norcold refrigerators, are particularly susceptible to clogging due to their small size and the nature of the oil contamination.

Degrading Hoses: While less common, some buildup may originate from the gradual degradation of propane hoses over time. 

Risks and consequences

Reduced Gas Flow: Wax buildup can restrict the flow of propane to the refrigerator's burner, impacting its ability to light or maintain a strong flame.

Overheating: In the case of Dometic and Norcold refrigerators, restricted gas flow can lead to the cooling unit boiler overheating, potentially damaging the refrigerator.

Soot Buildup: Incomplete combustion caused by inadequate gas flow can also lead to soot accumulation in the burner and flue, further hindering performance. 

Addressing the problem

Cleaning the System: Disassembly and cleaning of the gas lines, including the burner, flue, and orifice, may be necessary to remove the wax buildup.

David Force gave  @carnivore very solid advice! 👍🏻 

**** Cleaning Solutions: Isopropyl alcohol (91%) is recommended for flushing out the system, while acetone can also be used, but care must be taken to avoid contact with rubber or plastic parts.

Preventing future issues

Using Clean Propane: Consider sourcing propane from reputable suppliers known for clean gas.

Filter Maintenance: If the refrigerator has a filter in the SOV valve, regular inspection and replacement or cleaning can help prevent clogs.

Bottle Draining: If oil contamination is suspected in an LP bottle, it can be drained and flushed when empty by removing the valve and turning the tank over.

Regular Maintenance: Adhering to the manufacturer's recommendations for routine maintenance, such as cleaning the burner, flue, and burner orifice, can help ensure optimal performance and minimize the risk of buildup according to www.ezfreezerefrigerator.com. 

Edited by Patriot
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ALAZARCOCTDEGAIDILIAKSKYMEMDMAMOMTNENHNM

2020 OLEII - Hull #634 aka-  “XPLOR”

TV 2021 F350 6.7 liter Diesel Lariat Ultimate Tremor aka - “Beast of Burden”

Retro upgrades - Truma Aventa 13.5 AC, Alcan 5 leaf pack, Alcan HD shackles & HD wet bolts, 5200lb never lube axles.

XPEL 10 mil PPF front both front corners, 30 lb LP tanks, Sea Biscuit Front Cargo Storage box.

North Carolina 🇺🇸

IMG_1896.thumb.jpeg.2e67e93488f0d83500b383b2cf8809a8.jpeg

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Posted
22 hours ago, carnivore said:

a by-product of propane per the tec that helped me out. 

Yup

2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12

Florida and Western North Carolina, or wherever the truck goes....

400 watts solar. DC compressor fridge. No inverter. 2 x 105 ah agm batteries .  Life is good.


        
 

 

 

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