High Pointe Convection Oven Tripping CGFI Breaker

[2008RN]

Since I had never used the Convection Oven side of the Microwave, I thought I would give it a try before we head out on the next adventure.  I Place the metal rack in the oven, and put a bowl of water in the oven.  I know it is not food, but at least I thought it would work for a test.  I started the Convection Oven at 350 degrees for 10 minutes.  I had also set the Xantrex Charger to 5amps charging, since I was using a dedicated 20AMP circuit  in the RV port.   Before starting the test the readout in the rear upper cabinet showed 1 Amp at 122 Volts.  After starting the test I was drawing 12Amps At 119Volts.  After 1 minute, the GFCI Breaker tripped.  I tried resetting the breaker a couple of times and it continued to trip.  I thought maybe something shorted out.  

After About 5 minutes I was able to reset the breaker.  I tried the same test only at 300 degrees, and the same thing happened.  I decided to try the  Xantrex Freedom 2000 inverter and give my new Epoch batteries a small workout.   Again after one minute the 120V 20Amp GFCI in the Xantrex tripped.  Waited 10 minutes and was able to reset it.

At this point I wanted to make sure the Microwave part of the oven still worked. I removeI the metal rack and placed the bowl of water on the glass tray and ran the microwave for 3 minutes and was able to heat up the water.

I know I wasn't pulling over 13Amps total in the trailer, so it couldn't have been from a high load. Since it took some time for the breakers to be reset, I think there is dome type of switch automatically reseting in the Convection side of the oven.

The previous owners back in 2020 stated that they never used the microwave side, but had used the Convection side on the few trips they had taken.

 It is not a show stopper, but it would have nice to cook one of my recipes in the the convection oven for the egg rally.

Any Ideas?

[Steph and Dud B]

Is it the circuit breaker in the breaker box under the dinette tripping or the GFCI in the outlet under the dinette tripping? They are different devices.

[jd1923]

18 hours ago, 2008RN said:

I started the Convection Oven at 350 degrees for 10 minutes.  I had also set the Xantrex Charger to 5amps charging, since I was using a dedicated 20AMP circuit  in the RV port.   Before starting the test the readout in the rear upper cabinet showed 1 Amp at 122 Volts.  After starting the test I was drawing 12Amps At 119Volts.  After 1 minute, the GFCI Breaker tripped.

I'm thinking you mean the GCFI 20A outlet you are plugged into had tripped.

Your EMS readout displayed 12A which is the total input amperage from shore power, which would include the Xantrex charger if it was in fact charging at the time. Sounds like a temperamental GFCI to me and it's not the first time I've read this story on our Forum!

Glad our home was built in 1980 when only bathrooms had GFCI outIets. If it was my garage or exterior outlet that I used for shore power, I would replace it with a standard 20A outlet, regardless of code. Or add a new 30A breaker to your service panel, run wire and a 30A dedicated outlet for shore power. This is what I did where we park our Oliver.

Not running on the 2KW Xantrex? Check and lower your shut-off voltage setting which is often the case with Xantrex inverters (not Victron).

Your oven pulling only 11A (12A - 1A) should run on any 15A household circuit, let alone 20A. And 11A on 120VAC is equivalent to 110A on 12VDC which translates to 1320W, which again should run on a 2000W inverter with a lot or room to spare!

Could the oven be defective? Not likely, since it started up and pulled a measurement read by the EMS. You could think it's the oven since it blew on two power sources. But the microwave works. The oven must create a power spike the GCFI protection doesn't like.

The only way to be sure is to connect to a shore power source that is not GFCI! The 30A shore power outlet at any campground are not GFCI outlets. Next time I need a GCFI outlet is the next time I take a shower with a live blow dryer in hand! 🤣

Edited July 29 by jd1923

[2008RN]

4 hours ago, jd1923 said:

I'm thinking you mean the GCFI 20A outlet you are plugged into had tripped.

Your EMS readout displayed 12A which is the total input amperage from shore power, which would include the Xantrex charger if it was in fact charging at the time. Sounds like a temperamental GFCI to me and it's not the first time I've read this story on our Forum!

Glad our home was built in 1980 when only bathrooms had GFCI outIets. If it was my garage or exterior outlet that I used for shore power, I would replace it with a standard 20A outlet, regardless of code. Or add a new 30A breaker to your service panel, run wire and a 30A dedicated outlet for shore power. This is what I did where we park our Oliver.

Not running on the 2KW Xantrex? Check and lower your shut-off voltage setting which is often the case with Xantrex inverters (not Victron).

Your oven pulling only 11A (12A - 1A) should run on any 15A household circuit, let alone 20A. And 11A on 120VAC is equivalent to 110A on 12VDC which translates to 1320W, which again should run on a 2000W inverter with a lot or room to spare!

Could the oven be defective? Not likely, since it started up and pulled a measurement read by the EMS. You could think it's the oven since it blew on two power sources. But the microwave works. The oven must create a power spike the GCFI protection doesn't like.

The only way to be sure is to connect to a shore power source that is not GFCI! The 30A shore power outlet at any campground are not GFCI outlets. Next time I need a GCFI outlet is the next time I take a shower with a live blow dryer in hand! 🤣

I will give it a shot by hooking the Oli into non GFCI breaker.   That will prove if the GFCI breaker to the RV port has problems/ causing problems. FYI: the previous owner never boondocked and always did full hookups.  If it works on a Non-GFCI then that would mean that I would not be able to run the oven off of the Xantrex boondocking since the other GFCI outlet is built into the Xantrex.

[jd1923]

11 hours ago, 2008RN said:

If it works on a Non-GFCI then that would mean that I would not be able to run the oven off of the Xantrex boondocking since the other GFCI outlet is built into the Xantrex.

I would not jump to that conclusion. Think of this as a next step in testing. If it doesn't work, meaning your oven blows a 20A non-GFCI circuit breaker, then your oven is drawing too much power and should be replaced. If it works and your readout still shows it's using about 11A +/- then it's the GCFI.

Once it has been determined that it's working in the above test, then look into the Xantrex. It's likely the low-power cutoff, but check out these posts. Too bad in the first one the OP never wrote back to communicate cause (this happens too often). In Bill's post a hard reboot solved his issue, or it could be something else. My fix for a 2KW Xantrex was to replace it with a 3KVA Victron MP2! 🤣

https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/11320-xantrex-inverter/

https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9255-xantrex-inverter-issues-try-a-hard-reboot/

[2008RN]

On 7/28/2026 at 9:54 AM, Steph and Dud B said:

Is it the circuit breaker in the breaker box under the dinette tripping or the GFCI in the outlet under the dinette tripping? They are different devices.

It is the Circuit breaker builtin to the Xantrex accessing it through the 6" inspection port below the pantry.

[2008RN]

On 7/28/2026 at 5:42 PM, jd1923 said:

I'm thinking you mean the GCFI 20A outlet you are plugged into had tripped.

Your EMS readout displayed 12A which is the total input amperage from shore power, which would include the Xantrex charger if it was in fact charging at the time. Sounds like a temperamental GFCI to me and it's not the first time I've read this story on our Forum!

Glad our home was built in 1980 when only bathrooms had GFCI outIets. If it was my garage or exterior outlet that I used for shore power, I would replace it with a standard 20A outlet, regardless of code. Or add a new 30A breaker to your service panel, run wire and a 30A dedicated outlet for shore power. This is what I did where we park our Oliver.

Not running on the 2KW Xantrex? Check and lower your shut-off voltage setting which is often the case with Xantrex inverters (not Victron).

Your oven pulling only 11A (12A - 1A) should run on any 15A household circuit, let alone 20A. And 11A on 120VAC is equivalent to 110A on 12VDC which translates to 1320W, which again should run on a 2000W inverter with a lot or room to spare!

Could the oven be defective? Not likely, since it started up and pulled a measurement read by the EMS. You could think it's the oven since it blew on two power sources. But the microwave works. The oven must create a power spike the GCFI protection doesn't like.

The only way to be sure is to connect to a shore power source that is not GFCI! The 30A shore power outlet at any campground are not GFCI outlets. Next time I need a GCFI outlet is the next time I take a shower with a live blow dryer in hand! 🤣

 

I moved the Oli out of the RV port and next to the house. Used a non-GFCI breaker in the garage that only feeds the air compressor.  I ran the test again.  This time I went about 5min 30 seconds when the power went off. I check the non-GFCI in the Garage and it did NOT trip,  I checked the built in GFCI breaker in the Xantrex and it did trip.  Still took about 5 minutes to be able reset the GFCI.  Every time I press the button in it would click and pop the button back out.  The EMS still reading 12A.   

I check the Xantrex setup,  the LBCO was 10.5, and LBCO Shutdown delay timer.was 300.  I missed these values when updated from AGM to  (2) Epoch 300AH batteries (totaling 600AH). I used the custom [USE] setting for the Epoch and set Absorption and Float to Epoch specs.   So I will need to update the LBCO and LBCO shutdown delay to suggested setting. (LBCO 12.0 or 12.1, then delay of 10.

 

[Steph and Dud B]

9 hours ago, 2008RN said:

Every time I press the button in it would click and pop the button back out.  The EMS still reading 12A.   

I check the Xantrex setup,  the LBCO was 10.5, and LBCO Shutdown delay timer.was 300.  I missed these values when updated from AGM to  (2) Epoch 300AH batteries (totaling 600AH). I used the custom [USE] setting for the Epoch and set Absorption and Float to Epoch specs.   So I will need to update the LBCO and LBCO shutdown delay to suggested setting. (LBCO 12.0 or 12.1, then delay of 10.

Ok, so those settings may have been incorrect, but that's not causing a breaker trip. There's still something else going on. Can you run a heavy extension cord (12 gauge) from an outlet in your garage directly to the plug/cord on your microwave? (Don't use a cheap cord, it could melt.) If the microwave works that way, there's a problem in your trailer, either a wiring fault or a bad breaker in the Xantrex. If the microwave trips your garage breaker, there's a problem with the microwave and it should be replaced.

[jd1923]

6 hours ago, Steph and Dud B said:

Can you run a heavy extension cord (12 gauge) from an outlet in your garage directly to the plug/cord on your microwave?

Straight-forward test!

We travel with this 30 ft 12 AWG extension cord. With our batteries, I can even plug in a friend who isn’t off-grid capable! 🤣

https://a.co/d/01Nv8L4h

[jd1923]

22 hours ago, 2008RN said:

I check the non-GFCI in the Garage and it did NOT trip,  I checked the built in GFCI breaker in the Xantrex and it did trip.

So your GFCI breaker on the Xantrex is protecting shore power also in any 120VAC circuit wired through the inverter.

It runs your microwave which runs on lower wattage, likely rated at 1100W and using closer to 900W.

Why can’t a 2KW Xantrex inverter produce or even allow pass through shore power to the rated 2KW? It would be nice to know how many amps the oven was pulling after 5 minutes, but I’m pretty sure it was nowhere near 2KW.

If you can somehow reconfigure it to produce spec, or replace the inverter with a more capable unit, or rewire the oven to be used on shore power only.

I replaced mine since we require to run our oven and our A/C unplugged.

[2008RN]

4 hours ago, jd1923 said:

So your GFCI breaker on the Xantrex is protecting shore power also in any 120VAC circuit wired through the inverter.

It runs your microwave which runs on lower wattage, likely rated at 1100W and using closer to 900W.

Why can’t a 2KW Xantrex inverter produce or even allow pass through shore power to the rated 2KW? It would be nice to know how many amps the oven was pulling after 5 minutes, but I’m pretty sure it was nowhere near 2KW.

If you can somehow reconfigure it to produce spec, or replace the inverter with a more capable unit, or rewire the oven to be used on shore power only.

I replaced mine since we require to run our oven and our A/C unplugged.

I read in one of the other links that you had posted earlier and found that one person at least has had problems with the GFCI breaker in the Xantrex. I’m out on the road right now. When I get back, I will test the microwave with an 20amp extension cord directly from my garage.. At least if that works then most likely the cause is the breaker in the Xantrex and I can replace the switch. I agree with you. It’s weird passing through the 120v through the Xantrex.  I guess with the Xantrex passing though 120v at least you wouldn’t have the inverter running 120 at the same time you were hooked up to short power. 
 

if the Xantrex would fail, does that mean that the 120v  pass-through would also fail?

Edited July 31 by 2008RN

[Snackchaser]

After reading through this thread, it seems that either the shore power GFCI breaker or the inverter GFCI breaker trips after running the microwave in the convection mode for a few minutes.  That sure sounds like the convection oven is failing!  

A crack in the heating element could cause a low current leakage path to ground when it gets hot enough.  It only takes several milliamps to trip the GFCI and it will reset after the oven cools down and the leakage path goes away.  A standard thermo/magnetic breaker may not detect this condition and the element would probably just burn out after a while.  A winding in the oven fan has the same possible failure mode, but it could take longer to completely fail.  

I'd try plugging the microwave directly into an extension cord that is plugged into a GFCI.  This will confirm if the oven works, or needs to be replaced.  

Good luck and let us know what you find.  Geoff

[jd1923]

12 hours ago, 2008RN said:

I agree with you. It’s weird passing through the 120v through the Xantrex.  I guess with the Xantrex passing though 120v at least you wouldn’t have the inverter running 120 at the same time you were hooked up to short power. 

if the Xantrex would fail, does that mean that the 120v pass-through would also fail?

I believe your inverter has a built-in ATS, so when it senses shore power it will prefer/switch to that power source. I replaced an older 2KW Xantrex inverter (only, no charger). It also did not have a built-in ATS so an external ATS was wired in line.

I do not know Xantrex internals since I went with Victron. One thing that surprised me with the Victron is that it must be powered ON to allow pass-through 120VAC shore power (the one and only feature I do not love). That could mean if the Victron was to fail, shore power could not connect. I'm not certain of this and prefer not to learn this while camping, but I have the tools, wire nuts, etc. to bypass. I can also reconnect the OEM PD charger if this was to occur.

I would certainly try the test Geoff suggested, which was what Dudley first suggested, but on your garage GFCI outlet. If it trips, you could try on your non-GCFI outlet, but if Geoff's hunch is correct, keep a careful eye, fire extinguisher in hand.

We had a microwave-only model and knowing it's not healthy for anything but perhaps reheating coffee, I replaced it with an Emeril Air Fryer. 😎

This model fit well: Amazon.com: Emeril Lagasse Everyday 360 Air Fryer Oven, 9-in-1 Countertop Oven : Home & Kitchen I added vents and insulation, but I would think since your hull came with a convention oven the cavity should be prepped for oven heat.

Camping last week, the first night monsoon rains were pouring heavy! We cooked indoors, ran the Emeril 30+ minutes while the Chill Cube A/C kept the cabin at 74F all day and night. Both were powered simultaneously on our 3KW inverter! You have the Epoch batteries which is a great start, and I hope very soon you can run your oven on inverter whenever you please! 

 

[jd1923]

@2008RN Check this out if you want to stop worrying about the Xantrex GFCI!

 

[2008RN]

Sorry, I have got  side track on this project.   We went to Colorado first couple week in August.  I left the Microwave in place and we decided to just microwave things. Well we had some frozen homemade soup, and forgot to thaw it out.  My wife just put in the microwave at full power.  After about 5 minutes, the Microwave popped the GFGI switch in the camper.  It has never did this microwaving before.  So this has happened on grilling, convection and now microwaving.  After the trip I connected the microwave directly to a garage GFCI outlet with a 100' 20Amp extension cord, and tested again with the Convection.  It popped and It seems to take more time to reset itself.    So I started looking at microwaves to see if I could find a replacement microwave, but without removing it and taking outside dimensions. Also the size of the front panel and door needs to fit  the trim plate, and cannot find that data online.  So I stalled out, and planted more grass at home and then took another trip.  I had a couple of days to play with the Microwave and pulled it out and removed all of the sheetmetal covering the unit.

i looked at every wire, connector, PC boards and nothing looks a miss. No signs of over heating.  I am not an Electrical tech or EE, so I can do a few basic things.  First I was surprised that the PCBs were through-hole and not surface-mount technology.   Last time I have seen a through-hole board was in the late 1990's.   I found 3 thermal circuit breakers.  One feeding the Grill mounted to the top inside sheet metal. This feeds the Grill burner only.  I found another thermal breaker for the convection in the back next to the Convection fan on the cover of the Convection burner that protects the burner and fan.  Then last and not least is the thermal breaker on top of the cover to the actual microwave emitter.  This connected to the main incoming circuit. The power comes into the microwave and connects positive and negative to a PCB and the ground goes to  the frame, and then another wire from the frame goes back to this PBC.  There is a fuse and some other components that I don't know what they do.   I ohm the 3 thermal breakers  at 0.02 ohms and the fuse at 0 ohms.

I decided to test the Microwave.  I  tried each mode with the covers off for about 15 seconds, ensuring all fans were working correctly and they were. I put the main cover back on and then used the convection mode at 350.  It went 15 minutes, so I stopped it and put the rear and top heat shields/vents on and then restarted and went for 20 minutes, then started the grill and ran for 20 minutes.  I changed the water for new cold water in the bowl and then used the microwave to heat the water for 10 minutes.   The top left rear got around 130-140 degrees I am guessing. Hot enough that I could only touch for about 1 second but it did't burn me.  

The Microwave unit never failed. 

I measured the inside cabinet and the microwave, and found for the depth was less than 1/2"  clearance. In fact I problems getting the microwave to set back in, and it was so tight that I think the cord got caught between the back.  Also there is a little shelf in the back and the rear shield sets directly on it. covering up 1/2  of the rear vents. Also the way the side of the trailer slopes in I was very close to touching the top back side to the side of the trailer.  Also Oliver had ground a small section out of bottom of the storage cabinet above so the top rear left corner would fit in there.  Darn that is tight.  

I had never tried the convection/grill until I started this thread, but the previous owner did use the convection.  I remove the microwave in may/june to add the refrigerator fan upgrade.  When I used a coat hanger wire to go from inside the microwave area into the external fridge  compartment for the wiring it dropped through and down into the fridge area without resistance. The taping inside the upper corners of the fridge was poor at best. So after I pass the wire and 1/2 sheathing from the switch panel down into the fridge area with no problems, i re-taped several areas long the top of the external fridge area, with higher quality aluminum tape and sealed this whole section up.  I have probably been getting some CO in the microwave compartment from the propane burner in the fridge.  I decided to seal the area between the microwave cabinet and the fridge exterior compartment  with spray foam.  I also think I sealed the area between the hulls when I did this so I was not getting any air coming up from the basement. 

I am thinking that everything was so tight in the cabinet, that reducing that small amount of possible airflow caused  increased temp and the main thermal breaker to open. I'm not exactly sure how this popped the GFCI unless there was arching when it opened.  

I have thought about testing this theory, by running in convection mode with all of the covers off, and getting the main thermal breaker positioned  so i can get a heat gun to heat up the breaker and see if it trips the GFCI breaker when thermal breaker opens.

I am thinking  of removing the small step/shelf in the back of the cabinet. Removing the white board in the back removing some of the bubble insulation behind the microwave and then digging some of the Foam insulation to possibly get some air-flow from the basement.

Questions

1. Do you think I am on the right track?

2. If my theory is correct. and the Thermal breaker has been opening.  Should I replace the thermal breaker just because it has opened at least 10 times in all of my testing?

 

You can see the shelf in the back that covers the bottom vent holes, and the white panel in the back, as well as the foam I sprayed in on the sides.

Back of the microwave, the sheet metal cover that sits on the shelf.

The main thermal breaker and the PC board for incoming power.

 

Edited 1 hour ago by 2008RN