dc power not turning o

[Dean and Mary]

Imelda, Thanks for the update, and I’m glad you’re able to get home with things as they are. Just a quick reminder—the jacks don’t receive their power from the converter, but more of a direct connection from the batteries through the 60 amp Optifuse shown in my above image. 

[jd1923]

1 hour ago, Imelda said:

the 60A fuse is good just checking the low resistance (not the voltage but I will) across it.

Does this mean the "fuse is good?" it's certainly not a conclusive test and it doesn't mean there's a 12V source connected to the breaker. +12V on the source side of the breaker shows you have connection to the batteries. +12V on the load side shows the breaker is closed providing a power connection to the bus.

1 hour ago, Imelda said:

I am starting to suspect the converter.

A dead (or disconnected) converter will only keep you from recharging batteries when connected to shore power. A running converter is not required to operate lights, the jacks or anything else 12VDC. Converter status is independent of these 12V loads getting power from the batteries.

[jd1923]

4 hours ago, Dean and Mary said:

jd, thanks for sharing the photo of your original 12‑volt distribution. It’s definitely cleaner than what my original setup looks like. I’ve attached a photo of mine—minus the 8‑gauge input wire. I’m in the middle of replacing everything and wanted a picture before I completely disassemble it.

On my install, there are two wires on the input side of the Optifuse (not counting the main 8‑gauge battery feed that’s been removed). I haven’t traced them yet, but I suspect one may be for the breakaway switch. I don’t want to hijack the thread until the main issue is resolved, but identifying these wires would save me some time.

Dean, WOW! I've seen some strange wiring but what happened here? Did they run out of buses on install day? The installer just bolts everything to the breaker, OMG! 🤣

BTW, this is the famous Optifuse! Many of these have failed, so that OTT has stopped using them! Search the Forum for keyword Optifuse. I'd be surprised if this isn't the answer to the issue of this thread, since everything not working, lights, jacks etc. is connected to this breaker. Do yourself a favor with your upgrade and replace the Optifuse breaker with an 60A ANL fuse and holder. Oh, and add a +bus, LOL!

Back in 2016, OTT used Bussman breakers (at least on our hull). They installed a 40A for all 12VDC lighting, jacks, etc. (pictured above) and a 30A Bussman for the rooftop solar. Keeping things standard, I purchased a 35A Bussman breaker to protect the Victron MPPT 100|30 SC that I added for our 400W Renogy suitcase solar.

Three Bussman breakers, 2 of them 11 years old, the new one 2 years old, no issues. ANL fuses are more reliable as you certainly know when they are blown (always have a spare). Fuses will blow when there's too much current on either side of the fuse. Breakers are directional, so they only protect on the load side of the breaker.

I have no idea what your two black wires are on the source side of your breaker. Trace them back if you can. If not, I'd wire them to a new bus with everything else. I have no wires before a breaker anywhere, meaning power to the breakaway switch on our hull does pass though the 40A breaker (OTT had not wired this to code). I know the breakaway switch works because I pull it to test for amperage to the brakes.

When I moved these breakers to the dinette area, I found the wiring from the jack fuses to all 3 jacks ran towards the dinette area first (was surprised since one jack is right there and the curbside jack is another direction). I removed all that excess wire and removed 3 butt connectors on each of the 3 wires along the way. I crimped one fresh butt connector on each of 3 much shorter wires to clean things up. 😎

Edited 48 minutes ago by jd1923