Winterization Video

[donbob3]

I will try raising front of trailer, however I have bike rack attached to back frame which extends about 3 feet.   I would rather not get involved in removing rack.

[donthompson]

If you haven’t ever removed the rack from the back of your Oliver, I advise you to do so. I had the factory install the aluminum frame for the new bike rack recently (I plan to buy my own Thule components that will work with a fat bike). I had to remove mine for the Oliver to fit in my storage unit. I couldn’t get it to slide out by myself. A friend helped (with the aid of a rubber mallet). We discovered that Oliver had drilled the holes with the frame in place and left lots of debris in the channels. We removed the rack and thoroughly cleaned the channels. It now slides in and out with much less effort.

[donbob3]

Raised front of trailer to drain fresh water tank.  It took forever to drain (small stream).   Definitely recovered several gallons.  The tilting of trailer was not  discussed in the winterization video.  Meter now shows 6%.

[topgun2]

donbob3 - with either 6% or even the 10% left in the fresh water tank you should be fine as long as you have carried out all the other steps in the video.  If you are still concerned simply add another gallon of antifreeze to the fresh water tank.

 

Bill

[Mainiac]

In the Spring, when we bring our unit out hibernation, we plan on sanitizing the water system. First we will fill our fresh water tank with fresh water, and then drain it. Hopefully this will remove any antifreeze that might be present. We will close the drain valve, and then turn on the pump (the water heater should fill, as we turn the bypass back open at end of winterizing schedule.). Starting at the kitchen faucet we flush first the cold, and then hot water faucet until there is no more pink, and then the hot. Next is the bath faucet, shower, toilet, and outside shower. We hook up the city water and run for a few minutes to remove any antifreeze that might be there. Next we will go to the short hose connection by the back bumper and suck about two cups of Clorox into the holding tank. We then run each faucet again until we smell the bleach. Shut off each faucet and leave for a couple of hours, or even overnight. The next day we drain the tank and refill. We flush each line until we can no longer smell the Clorox. Refill your tank and Bon Voyage. The easier than it sounds...

[topgun2]

Canoe12 - looks like a good plan to me.

 

Bill

[Try2Relax]

Hopefully this will remove any antifreeze that might be present. We will close the drain valve, and then turn on the pump (the water heater should fill, as we turn the bypass back open at end of winterizing schedule.)

 

With it winterized, the water heater is bypassed, do not remove the bypass until you actually need to, until you are ready to actually use it on a trip. It's clean it's dry there's no need. With how much water the fresh tank retains upon emptying, one rinsing will leave a bit of pink stuff, although diluted, and the one thing that has always stuck with me was being warned about getting it in the water heater. So get as many drains/flushes and flushing all the other sections, to dilute it even more and maybe again before putting it back into the water heater. That includes bleaching the system too, before the water heater.

 

The warning was for how bad it will smell.

[quoyle]

Hello, My Elite I was winterized when I picked it up in March. I'm ready to de-winterize but the video here does not seem to be working. Is there another place I can find this video or a similar one? Many thanks . Tom

[Overland]

Yeah, that link appears to be dead.  Here's one that should work -

 

[Trav3leyz]

Yeah, that link appears to be dead. Here’s one that should work –

 

 

 

Will check that out