Compressor Fridge Info Thread, for those of us considering switching

[C&MCurrie]

We live and camp quite a bit in Florida and the  Norcold had issues with getting to and maintaining temperature during the summer. I tried adding several fans to mitigate the problem and that helped somewhat. The Isotherm has no problem getting to and maintaining temps. Recovery is fast and getting away from the open flame is a bonus as well. During removal of Norcold, I noticed slight scorching on the rear wall of cabinet where the boiler assembly was. 

[John Dorrer]

On 2/14/2024 at 10:17 AM, C&MCurrie said:

I have recently completed the conversion with the Isotherm that Oliver uses. Not too bad, hardest part was disassembling Norcold 4.1 and then reassembling it after removal from my smaller Oliver Elite. Had to remove refrigerator door and cooling unit in order to fit through the Oliver door. The Isotherm Cruise 130 fits through narrow passageway after removing its door. BTW, The Norcold works fine after reassembly and currently trying to sell. 

How are you venting the backside of your compressor fridge. While you don't need two vents with the compressor fridge like you did with the Absorbtion fridge, you still need to vent the backside of the fridge. Every truck camper I have owned, with a compressor fridge needed to vent the backside. I had to add a computer fan on the backside to pull hot air out of the space behind the fridge, especially during hot whether. IMO you are going to make that fridge work overtime. I think you are making a mistake. Curious to your reasoning. The only thing I can think of is venting warm air into the trailer in cold weather. In warmer weather I would want the heat venting outside.

[SeaDawg]

In our case (indel b truckfridge/non marine version of isotherm) the minimal heat generated is vented to the inside. No outdoor vent specified. No dirt. No mud dauber. No screens necessary. 

I've used 12v danfoss/secop compressor fridges in three countries. None had an outside vent. A big advantage,  for us, on dusty roads, actually. 

The waste heat, without the flame of a 3way, is quite minimal. Can't even really feel it, with a hand next to the vent grills (interior). 

Biggest issue with 12v dc compressor fridge is having enough battery power, power management skills, and a way to recharge batteries. 60 ah per day is our average, and with our relatively puny 2 x 12v 105 ah agm group 31s, it does require monitoring, if you're not plugged in all the time. 

Me? I'm perfectly happy with the tradeoffs I have a smaller freezer, big fridge compartment,  interior light, no exterior panel lights at night,  and most importantly,  a fridge that cools down quickly, and stays consistent in temp. 

I think we're six years in, and I'm super happy that we made the swap.

 

[mountainoliver]

SeaDawg is correct. You don’t want the old outside vents open, dirt and bugs would be the least of your worries. Rain and water spray when washing etc. would end up inside of the trailer. These compressor fridges are not sealed around the backside like the absorption fridges are. Even absorption fridges (my Dometic wasn’t) aren’t sealed underneath, remove the lower grill from a trailer with an absorption fridge and look under the fridge. Mine was open all the way to the front of the fridge. The compressor fridge has to have plenty of air circulation behind to vent heat from the condenser coil. Without proper ventilation not only will the compressor run a lot but, the excess heat will eventually damage the compressor by causing the motor to run hotter. Without proper ventilation the heat cannot be removed from the condenser coil which will cause high head pressure in the compressor itself which will cause the motor to work harder drawing higher amps thus overheating the motor. Sort of a vicious circle situation. During normal running there isn’t a whole lot of heat to deal with, not like the absorption fridges so venting to the inside of the trailer is not really noticeable. The installation manual usually has a specification for the minimum square inches of open area for ventilation. That spec should be followed fairly closely. 

[John Dorrer]

16 hours ago, SeaDawg said:

In our case (indel b truckfridge/non marine version of isotherm) the minimal heat generated is vented to the inside. No outdoor vent specified. No dirt. No mud dauber. No screens necessary. 

I've used 12v danfoss/secop compressor fridges in three countries. None had an outside vent. A big advantage,  for us, on dusty roads, actually. 

The waste heat, without the flame of a 3way, is quite minimal. Can't even really feel it, with a hand next to the vent grills (interior). 

Biggest issue with 12v dc compressor fridge is having enough battery power, power management skills, and a way to recharge batteries. 60 ah per day is our average, and with our relatively puny 2 x 12v 105 ah agm group 31s, it does require monitoring, if you're not plugged in all the time. 

Me? I'm perfectly happy with the tradeoffs I have a smaller freezer, big fridge compartment,  interior light, no exterior panel lights at night,  and most importantly,  a fridge that cools down quickly, and stays consistent in temp. 

I think we're six years in, and I'm super happy that we made the swap.

 

I get it now, and actually think your thought process is spot on. Totally reverses my previous comment.👍

[SeaDawg]

In all fairness, @John Dorrer, the compressor fridges, like home fridges, do need room to breathe. Just not to the outside, as @mountainoliver explained.  Just like your home fridge.

We installed "rails" or "ledges" epoxied to the cavity sides, and kept the fridge off the floor. Bonus, I have a nice shallow drawer under the fridge, where I keep flat pans, BBQ tools,  flashlights, some miscellaneous items. It's open to the base of the fridge.

We allowed twice the recommended venting in our install, but if we ever got caught in high temps, I can crack the drawer open a few inches, and double it again. (Not likely for us, as we chase cool weather, but who knows?)

Thanks for your thoughts. They actually helped a lot in furthering discussions.  

[John Dorrer]

14 hours ago, SeaDawg said:

In all fairness, @John Dorrer, the compressor fridges, like home fridges, do need room to breathe. Just not to the outside, as @mountainoliver explained.  Just like your home fridge.

We installed "rails" or "ledges" epoxies to the cavity sides, and kept the fridge off the floor. Bonus, I have a nice shallow drawer under the fridge, where I keep flat pans, BBQ tools,  flashlights, some miscellaneous items. It's open to the base of the fridge.

We allowed twice the recommended venting in our install, but if we ever got caught in high temps, I can crack the drawer open a few inches, and double it again. (Not likely for us, as we chase cool weather, but who knows?)

Thanks for your thoughts. They actually helped a lot in furthering discussions.  

Thanks

 This actually gives me some options when and if we need to move to the compressor fridge. I actually asked Phil back in October, 2021 if we could get a compressor fridge in our 2022 and the answer was no. Funny how that changed for the 2023 models. 

 

[SeaDawg]

10 hours ago, John Dorrer said:

Thanks

 This actually gives me some options when and if we need to move to the compressor fridge. I actually asked Phil back in October, 2021 if we could get a compressor fridge in our 2022 and the answer was no. Funny how that changed for the 2023 models. 

 

I know. 

I think a number of manufacturers have moved to 12v dc compressor fridges, because of their superb performance and reliability,  with the increasing availability and favorable pricing of higher amp hour lifepo4  batteries . 

We've had dometic and norcold 3 ways. Used webasto/indel and indel b in various trailers and camper vans. Best performance and reliability for us has been any fridge with dc compressor/danfoss/ secop. 

I do wish there was still an option for those who love 3way. For many camping styles, it's a sturdy,  uncomplicated way to go, and totally sips amps, on gas. I used to think it was the best boondock option. Still is, if no solar or genset. 60 ah a day draw is tough to manage boondocking,  without solar. Requires recharging with a genset.

[Ty J]

Just Finishing My install of Nova Cool. Wow what a workout. Thanks for all of input. My biggest issues is getting it leveled in existing hole. 2.5 months of hitting it on the weekends. Thanks to all who have contributed. I closed off all my holes and purchased table on bottom hole. I know how John D. felt after installation couple times. Here are couple quick shots. Fridge door came damaged from nova Kool, box was unharmed. But door tore up on bottom. Definately a workout. Tore up old fridge to get out and put back together if anyone one needs old 3 way fridge . Give me a jingle. Used one season. 

Thanks for everyones input.

[mountainoliver]

Ty j, great looking installation! My fridge was dropped as well somewhere along the way. Neither box or pallet were damaged in any way. Must be a common issue. I know that you’ll really like the new fridge. 

[rideadeuce]

On 10/7/2019 at 5:30 AM, ScubaRx said:

I know a guy in Virginia that makes these vents up in any size if anybody needs one.

Can you DM contact information for sourcing vents. I would appreciate it. I am trying to finish up install of the Nova Kool and still trying to source the upper and lower vents akin to what MountainOliver did. 

Thanks, 

Mike