Need Help - in a really cool place but no heat

[wdw0528]

We are in Quebec City and the weather is cool but unfortunately our heater has decided to not work.

 

Symptoms: the heater attempts to come on via the thermostat and we get a fan blowing for about a minute or two and then it shuts down. We had a similar problem before (another camper) and it turned out to be a safety switch that doesn't allow the gas to flow until the chamber is cleared by the fan...seems like similar symptoms. The only difference is with this one I am not hearing the ignitor attempt to light at all

 

Any tips on troubleshooting (that will not void the warranty) or other advice on a quick repair would be appreciated.

 

 

[topgun2]

wdw -

 

The only thing I'd know to do (quickly) would be to try to blow air into the area where the igniter is located.  The best way to do this is with an air compressor.  But, you could also use "canned air" (the kind that is used to clean computer keyboards) or even simply blow into that area. The idea here is to dislodge any foreign material that has come into contact with the sensor located at/near the tip of the igniter.  However, always remember to NOT blow directly into the "jet" from which the propane is released.

 

Good luck!

 

Bill

 

p.s.  forgot the most obvious - assume that you checked to see if you have propane.

[sailorashore]

We had a problem with our heater that we should have caught when taking delivery, but didn’t. Furnace would ignite a flame but it would go off after a few seconds.  Manufacturer of furnace speculated it was a faulty thermocouple. Oliver diagnosed faulty mother board and replaced under warranty.  No problems since.  Good luck with yours.

 

John Shkor,  SailorsAshore

[Townesw]

Darrell, sent you a PM.

 

Bill

[Townesw]

Darrell,

 

Remove the furnace outside cover. Have your wife start the furnace inside while you watch the LED on the control board.

 

 

Count the number of flashes between the 3 second pauses. Look on the table below to determine the fault.

 

 

If it’s the “Limit Switch/Airflow Problem” fault, CAREFULLY  pull the sail switch out until you see the small bright metal sail.

 

 

Use a pencil and GENTLY work that sail in and out and listen for the switch to click. Replace the sail switch and try to relight the furnace. Watch the LED again. Report back on what happens.

 

Bill

[KarenLukens]

Did they show you the reset switch under the rear curb side access door? You should call Jason if you didn't and have him walk you thru it. Have the door open when you call. It could be a priming problem in the gas line also. Turn off the tanks, remove both gas lines from the tanks, then reinstall and turn them both on. If you have the rear propane access port then you can bleed it if necessary but start the stove, then the water heater, then the heater and see if it works. I've had it happen once on Hull #200 and it worked.

 

Ours also had a thermostat that wasn't programmed right and shut the heat off every night at 10:pm until I read the manual, reset then changed the programs over to furnace...

 

Reed

 

 

[mountainoliver]

Which furnace do you have?

[Townesw]

I got a text from Darrell. He has heat now. He doesn’t have access to the forum where he is.

[wdw0528]

Updated status

 

I apologize for the delay but I'd been busy trying to resolve the problem and then we had either no or inconsistent internet (not that it is much better now).

 

After posting this and also sending an email to Jason Essary I got replies from both places and I appreciate them all - thanks. I will provide some details below that will answer some of your questions and hopefully help someone in a similar situation.

 

Our heater is an Atwood and the reset button (until now I didn't know it had one) is located inside the heater the cover (accessed from outside the camper - not under the bed inside) next to the circuit board. I would upload a picture of the location I received from Jason but for some reason I am currently unable to get it from my phone (txt) to the laptop but will add it to this thread later.

 

I did the purge of propane systems first, no luck & all systems except the heater were good.

 

Then I found and hit the reset button (per Jason) and this seemed to fix the problem as the heater began to work. It was later in the evening and getting cooler so that was a welcome sound when it fired up! But that success was short lived because as the heater cycled off when it reached the set temp, it failed again when it tried to come back on. Same symptoms - fan comes on and runs for about a minute or so but no sound of attempted ignition and it then shuts down. Another attempt at the reset button did not work. Extra covers tonight!

 

Next day I followed the instructions in this thread posted by Bill Townes about the sail switch. His great instructions with pictures helped me locate it and as I used a pencil to move it I heard a click as though it had made a connection. This fix was done two days ago now and the heater is still working flawlessly. We are comfortable now and have our fingers crossed as we are heading into even colder weather over the next few days - Gaspe, Quebec Canada.

 

Now that I have lost some confidence in the onboard heater I am looking for recommendations for a small portable space heater to keep with us for back up.

 

Thanks again for your input and hopefully this thread will help others in the future.

 

 

 

editing to add the photo showing where the reset switch is on an Atwood heater

 

 

[Townesw]

Darrell, thanks for the feedback.

 

That sail switch is a “prove” switch. It proves that the combustion chamber blower is working before allowing the gas valve to open and the igniter to spark. It is a delicate switch. A strong spiderweb or an insect nest might have kept it from working or going unused for a while might have let it stick open. Once you free it up it should be ok for the season unless it is defective.

 

Bill

[topgun2]

Darrell & Kathy -

 

Besides a very small ceramic electric heater, I also carry a Mr. Heater "Buddy" propane heater.  The one I have will work from a single one pound propane bottle (Coleman and the like) or from a long hose that you can connect directly to your main propane tanks.  It includes a tip over switch and a low O2 sensor but I always leave a window cracked when using it.  Those one pound bottles can get rather expensive ($3-$4 at Walmart and up to $6 in specialty stores) but it works great and uses no electricity.

 

Bill

[KarenLukens]

Darrell, thanks for the feedback.

 

That sail switch is a “prove” switch. It proves that the combustion chamber blower is working before allowing the gas valve to open and the igniter to spark. It is a delicate switch. A strong spiderweb or an insect nest might have kept it from working or going unused for a while might have let it stick open. Once you free it up it should be ok for the season unless it is defective.

 

Bill

 

That was great info Bill ?

 

I have the Suburban heater and wasn't sure what was in his trailer. It had the reset! That's good to know ?

 

But your info has opened my eyes and we'll be coming to you when we need some teaching ?

 

Thanks

 

Reed

[wdw0528]

The story continues - we are now in Lake Placid New York and still need heat and you guessed it - it failed again overnight. I only post this to share the "new" discovery that may be related.

 

First - the same procedure before (Bill's sail switch manipulation) solved it again but the problem was identical symptoms.

 

The new information to share with the group is that it seems like both times this happened on this trip was when we ran out of propane and switched to a new tank...maybe a coincidence - don't know. But this time I am also noticing (haven't noticed this before) that the valve to switch the propane from one tank to the other is not operating correctly. I have two full tanks and with the valve pointing to one it shows green and I have propane and with it pointing to the other full one it shows red (empty) and no propane. Both are full!

 

Obviously running out of propane will impact the ability to produce heat but I would hope it won't lock the sail switch every time?

 

Any thoughts on this and has anyone else experienced it? We have an appointment with Oliver to get these things looked at after we get home and Jason has been very responsive to us.

[Townesw]

The sail switch just detects movement of air by the fan. It shouldn’t be related to running out of propane. What code was the flashing LED producing when you opened the door?

 

Bill

[wdw0528]

It is the same error code (air flow) - and now it is failing randomly for no apparent reason. Sometimes it works and sometimes not - but manipulating the switch gets it started again.

[Geronimo John]

Please don't take offense for these two thoughts concerning propane tanks and the Auto Switch Over Valve (ASOV) at the tanks.

 

A.  For the ASOV to work automatically, both valves on top of the tanks have to be open, and the ASOV must be pointing to one of the tanks.  This combination will keep the supply of propane "ON" to your system all the way up to both tanks being near empty.

 

B.  All propane modern tanks have a max propane flow safety device.  If a surge flow of propane occurs that exceeds the manufactured set point, the valve will shut to very nearly off.  Such super low flow will not allow your gas appliances to work.  The fix I use is to turn off all propane devices connected to the propane system, unconnect the propane supply lines at the top of your tanks.  Briefly vent the tank valve and close it.  Re-connect a tank or two, to the system, and then very slowly crack a tank supply valve.  Wait a moment or two.  Then turn on one stove burner to low and bleed propane to the stove.  Once the stove is lit and stable, further open the propane tank valve to allow more flow of fuel to the system.  This process will reset the safety valve and will bring the pressure up in the supply lines more slowly so as not to not evoke the run-away propane flow feature of the tanks.  Oh yea, then fire off the gas water heater and stove.

 

This process, although has more steps than some may feel necessary, but it gives me a visual indication of the gas flow at the stove with both low and high flames (some indication that the pressure regulator is working properly at sequentially higher flows),  and reduces the probability of another undesired safety valve shut down by too many appliances all trying to get propane startup flow at the same time.

 

Good luck.