HOW TO: Move the factory cargo tray to a rear rack

[John E Davies]

 

 

 

I wanted to move my Oliver front cargo tray to the rear of the trailer to lighten the tongue. For a light duty truck like my Land Cruiser 200, the weight reduction is very significant. I normally carry two full 5 gallon gas jerry cans, an empty 6 gallon water can and my heavy rubber chocks. The tongue weight was 720 pounds with full tanks and full propane. After the mod it is around 480 pounds. I will probably continue to use the Andersen hitch for its excellent jounce control, but I have the adjuster nuts backed way off so that there is zero tension on the chains at rest. My airbags, at 10 psi, level things out and support the reduced tongue weight very well.

 

I won’t describe every step in detail. I will provide a basic materials list and some measurements. This is in NO WAY an easy mod, I rate it 7 out of 10, and this is for an ex-A&P mechanic who is comfortable working, shaping and drilling aluminum. The tray brackets on the bottom had to come off, and I left it to a local welding shop to mill them with their big milling machine, and to also weld some support spacers. Everything else I did in my shop with common hand tools, power tools, a handheld sander and a bench top sander, and a floor drill press.

 

The current factory bike rack (and previous versions) have double receivers that are bolted down to the frame. Because they attach to diamond plate, Oliver uses a hard rubber strip under each one to keep them from getting destroyed by the very sharp teeth. The two big attach bolts are located in the center and front of the receivers. There is nothing securing the back, which in my view is a problem, since that is where the most of the vertical force is applied from the cargo.

 

 

I did contact Jason in Service and asked how the latest factory bike racks were doings and if loosening was a problem. He told me that there were no issues. ….. Still, I decided to bolt my support arms directly to the frame - no receivers - and to remove all the sharp diamonds from the waste cover. This would allow me to eliminate the rubber strips, which I think are not a wise choice. I wanted my arms to have an intimate and solid connection to the frame. I did add 1/8” strips of aluminum bar to replace the rubber strips, to provide bumper clearance.

 

Materials are aircraft grade 6061-T6, 1/4” wall, with square corners. This is close to the same stuff the factory uses for their racks and the trailer frames. All hardware is stainless, and I strongly recommend using silver anti-seize on all of them!

 

Bumper removal is required. One of my nuts seized and I was able to snap the bolt using a big breaker bar.

 

Waste area diamond plate cover removal is required. This was a *****, I will make a new thread for that and provide a link.

 

Arm hole spacing: The critical factor is the forward hole, if it is too close to the hull, you won’t have room to get your drill in there because the hull swells out and interferes. I was JUST able to get my compact Dewalt drill in without any worries. If you have an angle drill, you could use it and a short 1/2” bit to get into this location. Beware!

 

Drilling: I drilled as many 1/2” holes as I could using the drill press, so they were dead straight. I used the drilled arms as jigs, to drill the frame holes straight, and afterwards I opened up the arm upper holes so I could get the hardware and a socket inside. See pictures.

 

When building something like this it is important to consider what happens if something goes seriously wrong, such as a major rear end collision. There needs to be a “fuse” - a designed-in weak point - where the rack can fail and hopefully minimize structural damage to the hull and frame. My rack is intended to fail where the cross beam meets the arms, not where the arms meet the frame (the underside of the frame rails is reinforced with an extra 1/4” bonded layer). Hopefully the rack will collapse upward and forward. The cans will meet the exposed rear tire and that will help to cushion the blow to the hull. These are real NATO style jerry  cans and they are extremely tough. I would not feel happy about transporting plastic gas cans here. OTH if there is going to be a big fire, better here than right behind the truck....

 

RACK:

EDIT 01/21/22. Added wall thickness for crossbeams and arms. JD

1 - Crossbeam 2” x 4” x  1/4” x 52.5” long. $68.00 … I could have gone a little wider on the beam (Oliver uses 7”, the same as the bumper), but my supplier had run out of the larger sizes and I think this is plenty adequate for the load (which is centered directly on top of the crossbeam).

 

2 - Support arms 2” x 2” x 1/4” x 24” long. $45.00

 

1 - Bar 1/4” x 1 1/2 x 24” long. $5. For reinforcing inside of trailer frame rails (epoxy bonded).

 

1 - Bar 1/8” x 2” x 24” long. $6. For spacers between arms and diamond plate cover.

 

4 - Bolt 1/2”-13 x 2”. Arms to frame.

 

4 - Bolt 1/2”-13 x 1 3/4”. Crossbeam to arms

 

8 - Nylock nut 1/2”-16

 

16 - Washer 1/2” x 1.062” OD (SAE specs, thicker and a better fit than a common washer)

 

CARGO TRAY:

 

Labor: mill off lower brackets, weld on two 1/8” thick support pieces: $80

 

1 - Bar 1/4” x 3” x 24” long. $10. For the tray reinforcing supports.

 

4 - Bolt 3/8”-16 x 3” trim excess length if needed. Use in the ends of the tray.

 

4 - Bolt Countersunk Allen head 3/8”-16 x 3” trim excess length if needed. Use in the center of tray to minimize interference with cargo.

 

8 - Nylock nut 3/8”-16

 

12 - Washer 3/8” x 7/8” OD

 

MISCELLANEOUS:

 

2 - Tie-downs, Mac's: http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/product/versatie-slimline-anchor-plate-assembly/Anchor-Plates

 

When doing a major job like this, fresh drill bits are important, or if you know how, sharpen yours. I bought new 3/8” and 1/2” bits. It makes the job go easier.

 

Large bits: I bought a set of 9/16” to 1” bits for $100. It is very rare that one would need them this big. The 9/16” fits the tongue bolts and hitch bolts. The 1” one I used to make access holes in the top of the support arms so the attach bolts would be recessed. Consider this optional, but if you follow my instructions you will need a 1” hole saw instead. OR use really long bolts and figure out a way to reinforce the arms internally with solid spacers.

 

Tape: You must protect the aluminum while working with it, otherwise it will get scarred and scratched. I used 1” blue masking tape an duct tape. Use something that will be easy to remove a week later if need be... not regular tan masking tape.

 

Files and sandpaper. I cleaned up cuts on the belt sander and finish polished parts with 360 grit wet-or-dry paper to make them look like the Oliver parts (which I believer are wire brushed).

 

Work stand. I used an old B&D Workmate. it makes drilling and sanding big parts easier.

 

Epoxy: JB Weld regular grade, to bond reinforcing plates under the top of the frame rails.

 

Primer: Duplicolor Self Etching for aluminum. For priming the top of the waste cover after sanding it down.

 

Lots of large clamps for holding everything together.

 

Carpenters angle, tape measure, machinist square: for ensuring everything is straight and true. Measure THREE times, cut once!

 

Patience, take your time, don’t make too many mistakes! If you want attempt this, good luck and feel free to ask questions.

 

Pics to follow.

 

John Davies'

 

Spokane WA

[John E Davies]

 

 

 

I used this scrap to make a guide bar to sand down the diamonds on the waste cover, using a handheld 3" belt sander:

 

 

 

 

I bonded the plate under each frame rail with small bolts coated in vaseline, until cured.

 

 

 

 

 

 

More pics.

[John E Davies]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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[John E Davies]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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[John E Davies]

The spare tire will simply roll out to either side after you remove the big threaded rod in the center of the mount. You do not have to disturb the rack or any cargo. This will NOT work with a tire cover installed, for obvious reasons.

 

 

It is hard to see here, I was able to position the eight tray 3/8” holes so that the washers fit neatly between the raised diamonds, not straddling them, which is not so good:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[attachment file=IMG_8171 copy.jpg]

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

[hobo]

John,

Related/unrelated;  The lids to your jerry cans look interesting.  My guess is they are much easier to use than the standard screw on lids as you wouldn't have replaced them otherwise.  Can you enlighten me on those items?  Thanks

[John E Davies]

30 minutes ago, hobo said:

John,

Related/unrelated;  The lids to your jerry cans look interesting.  My guess is they are much easier to use than the standard screw on lids as you wouldn't have replaced them otherwise.  Can you enlighten me on those items?  Thanks

These are not replacement caps for the stupid screw-on ones. The cans are genuine official real military grade NATO cans. Mine are 30 years old and have never even been repainted. You can carry them sideways strapped to a roof rack or drop them six feet to concrete and they will not leak. Carried inside an enclosed vehicle they don’t seep nauseating gas smells. Military trucks sometimes carry them flat in racks under the bed. These are the best you can get, but you MUST avoid the cheap knockoffs. Plus they are not in any way CARB legal, so new ones often come with a sticker that says “Not For Fuel Use”. LOL....

I made short loops of steel cable so I can install padlocks on the lids to avoid pilferage, they don’t come like that.

Here are a couple of sources, mine happen to be by Wedco.

https://www.jerrycanwarehouse.com/product-category/jerry-can/

https://www.amazon.com/Wavian-Authentic-NATO-Jerry-Fuel/dp/B007ZICYXQ/ref=asc_df_B007ZICYXQ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312142020868&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15193396740314842701&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033787&hvtargid=pla-570276520058&psc=1

They are available in different sizes, the big 5.2 gallon is most common. Buy a couple and you will pass them on to your grand kids....

John Davies

Spokane WA

Edited March 2, 2020 by John E Davies

[Landrover]

John 

I like your mod very nicely done.  I would caution carrying fuel containers on the rack. Your fuel cans may withstand a rear end collision explosion/fire, but showing members that its a good place to carry fuel containers may not be a good suggestion.  Just a word of caution, in some states this may be illegal.

 

Edited March 2, 2020 by Landrover

[Mainiac]

Curious how the front cover looks like, with the tray removed?

[John E Davies]

1 hour ago, Landrover said:

I like your mod very nicely done.  I would caution carrying fuel containers on the rack. Your fuel cans may withstand a rear end collision explosion/fire, but showing members that its a good place to carry fuel containers may not be a good suggestion.  Just a word of caution, in some states this may be illegal.

Thanks for the kind words. What you say is true, with several caveats. I did mention building the rack to be “fused” in the event of a rear ender, and I did mention the strength of these NATO cans and that I wouldn’t do this with plastic ones.. The rack “should” fold up into the spare tire rather than send all the energy into the frame structure. Obviously there is no way to test this, without completely destroying it. I removed my rear tire cover years ago, the rubber tire will hopefully add a cushioning effect as the cans get pushed into it. If not, then a fiberglass repair is easier and cheaper than repairing a bent frame.

I can’t comment on the state laws about carrying fuel in back. You see Wranglers and expedition rigs everywhere with rear mounted spare fuel. Whether that is legal I don’t know, but is an extremely common way to carry gas. Nobody except possibly in CA will ever hassle you for not having “EPA legal” cans. (The one exception that I know about are the large WA State ferries, they do inspect and you can’t bring it if it is not correctly labeled - the tiny ferries never even look.) How would anybody even know what is contained inside? 

I carried the cans up front for a long time, it worked very fine other than the added tongue weight, but I much prefer having that stuff 25 feet away with the hull of the trailer between me and a potential fuel spill or fireball. I don’t worry about them being back there, not one bit.

Do NOT carry plastic gas cans in back, please! That is different! Do not do this!

John Davies

Spokane WA

Edited March 2, 2020 by John E Davies

[John E Davies]

1 hour ago, Mainiac said:

Curious how the front cover looks like, with the tray removed?

? It looks like any other Ollie with no rack, other than the Stone Stomper support I made.... what are you asking, specifically?

John Davies

Spokane WA

[katanapilot]

John,

I can only assume you are an engineer or an A&P (or maybe both). Please take this as a compliment.  I'm an engineer by degree, airline pilot by trade, airplane builder as a hobby and future A&P when I retire in a couple years.

Your attention to detail is impressive.  If you haven't built a plane, you should.

Krea Ellis

[John E Davies]

40 minutes ago, katanapilot said:

John,

I can only assume you are an engineer or an A&P (or maybe both). Please take this as a compliment.  I'm an engineer by degree, airline pilot by trade, airplane builder as a hobby and future A&P when I retire in a couple years.

Your attention to detail is impressive.  If you haven't built a plane, you should.

Krea Ellis

Thanks for the complement. I am anal as can be, and I was a General Aviation A&P for twenty years before retiring early to raise my kids. I could build an airplane, I still have the tools, just not the inclination.

I was told more than once when working to back off, I was too picky - “good enough is good enough”. I should have worked for a corporate outfit with bottomless finances, shinier jets and floors, and a higher service standard. Tell me, as an airplane pilot, who do you want working on it, Mr Anal or Mr Good Enough? LOL.

What is funny is that my daughter, who has no tech background at all, snapped up an admin position at  one of those places, a Spokane based aerial firefighting outfit.

Have you ever considered flying tankers?

John Davies

Spokane WA

Edited March 2, 2020 by John E Davies

[katanapilot]

3 hours ago, John E Davies said:

Thanks for the complement. I am anal as can be, and I was a General Aviation A&P for twenty years before retiring early to raise my kids. I could build an airplane, I still have the tools, just not the inclination.

I was told more than once when working to back off, I was too picky - “good enough is good enough”. I should have worked for a corporate outfit with bottomless finances, shinier jets and floors, and a higher service standard. Tell me, as an airplane pilot, who do you want working on it, Mr Anal or Mr Good Enough? LOL.

What is funny is that my daughter, who has no tech background at all, snapped up an admin position at  one of those places, a Spokane based aerial firefighting outfit.

Have you ever considered flying tankers?

John Davies

Spokane WA

Great picture!

No, I'm a little too risk averse for that.  I have a neighbor that flies the smaller ones (single seat). He does that for fun and is a doctor the rest of the time.

As mentioned, my hobby is building airplanes like this one -

Sorry for the thread drift...

[John E Davies]

Update, I have used this system for two camping seasons without any issues. At first I was pretty paranoid about the hardware loosening from the often violent up and down motion at the rear of the trailer. I retorqued the bolts a couple of times, I got a little nut movement the first time, but never after that. I do check them annually, when I check stuff like the front jack attach nuts and the hitch and suspension bolts.

Even when I forcibly backed the rack into the stone siding on my house, it did not budge. But the stonework sure did 🤭 Note to self: a trailer backup camera only works when you actually turn it ON!

John Davies

Spokane WA

Edited February 20, 2021 by John E Davies

[Pat Maundrell]

1. The Payload capacity of our GL 450 is 1312 Lbs, minus 600 lbs Tongue Weight, minus 50 lbs Andersen Hitch, Minus 450 lbs occupants = 212 lbs for miscellaneous stuff. 

2. I've always wanted a Tongue Weight Scale so I understand exactly what is going on!

3. As a retired Heavy Duty Truck Sales Engineer & Service Manager for 50 years, I can't stress the importance of proper Tongue Weight and Weight Distribution as it relates to the Safe Operation of a Vehicle/Travel Trailer combination!! Your TW should be within 10-15% of the Trailer's Weight! Anything above or below this can induce SWAY and other serious Handling and Mechanical problems! 

4. It is my intention to set-up our TV/Trailer Combination by the "Book," while taking accurate measurements along the way to make sure I will, be operating within all Specifications and Guidelines! 

5. BTW, I have contacted Andersen Hitch to ask them about their Weight Distribution characteristics etc, I'll let you know.

[John E Davies]

Pat, go for it, I appreciate your safety concerns. Everyone who tows is personally responsible for his setup decisions. Just be aware that by using that all-inclusive industry standard for stick and staple trailers, which allows for worst case conditions like underinflated tires, worn out suspension, a weak and flexible frame and absolutely horrible aerodynamics, the tongue weight for a 7000 pound GVWR Ollie would be 700 to 1050 pounds. You would  definitely need a different truck with higher reserve capacities, or order the smaller trailer. You can plan on leaving stuff at home, but travelling with empty tanks and minimal tools and camping equipment will get old really, really fast, especially if you hope to boondock with no hookups.

A TW scale is a great tool, the Sherline 1000 is fine. You will also need to have access to a nearby commercial truck scales to measure the axle weight, most folks find that part a little difficult.

The WD characteristics of the Andersen are well understood by those who use it. Compared to steel spring bars, it is minimal, and if you really tighten the chain adjusters to get some weight shift, it binds up the coupler and rapidly wears out the ball. It is NOT needed for sway, but OTH it is excellent for jounce control (which is the sole reason I continue to use it).

John Davies

Spokane WA

 

 

Edited February 23, 2021 by John E Davies

[Landsplash]

Hi @John E Davies,  this is a very well done mod!   
 

What thickness did you use for the Aluminum tube?  
 

Cheers,

Andy

[John E Davies]

9 minutes ago, Landsplash said:

Hi @John E Davies,  this is a very well done mod!   
 

What thickness did you use for the Aluminum tube?  

Thanks Andy. I missed that detail in the material list, but it should also be obvious from the pics, both the support arms and the cross beam are 1/4”. I have edited the list.

John Davies

Spokane WA