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Pat Maundrell

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Everything posted by Pat Maundrell

  1. I would suggest that you consult the Touareg Club Forum for additional info on this subject, they have some interesting comments. However, as is generally the case there are lots of questionable statements. For example, Can you use a WDH? What is the Tongue Weight Capacity, etc? We Tow with a GL 450 (gas), which does a good job. IMO, one of the "For Most Authority on RV Towing," is Andy Thompson at Can Am Airstream in Ontario Can. I suggest you ask him for his opinion, he done the research and testing and "Thinks Outside the Box." Please report back to us on what you find out!
  2. Just what I needed, another item added to the "Honey Do List," at least this one is Inexpensive, Works, Easy to install, and Looks Nice. BTW, I like your "Towel Rack" on the Refrigerator Door, another item added to the List!
  3. We have a 15+year old Honda 2000 Generator and wouldn't be without it, originally bought to use with an Airstream we had. However, we haven't use it with the Oliver yet, but plan to. I wanted to install a Propane Conversion Kit, but it not available with my Honda's Serial Number, unfortunately to old. IMHO, Propane might be a more desirable Fuel, vs Gasoline , but I am not sure with my limited "Off Grid" usage. However, It would be nice when we Boondocking during those Hot Nights at Cracker Barre. BTW, remember to use the "Yellow Neutral Ground Plug" that comes with the Oliver.
  4. Our GL 450 has a 7 speed AT and can normally hold Cruise Control in 7th gear at 65 MPH. Of course it will occasional DownShift on slight Grades, which is to be expected. BTW, my wife also drives.
  5. Thanks, I knew there was a pressure difference, but I didn't know how much. This helps explain things! My situation involves a Fire Pit. When I hook up the Fire Pit with it's supplied Hose/Regulator to a 20 Lbs Tank, all is great. When I remove the Fire Pits Hose/Regulator and hook directly up to the Quick Disconnects, my Flame is to small. My solution is to install a "Y" connector at the Oliver's Tanks, one Branch going to the Regulated Oliver's Propane System, the other Branch going to the Fire Pit's Hose/Regulator connected by 20 Feet of hose to the Fire Pit so I can place it any where on the Campsite I need. Currently, our Weber uses 16.4 oz Bottles, but I think I'll convert it to the bigger bottles also.
  6. I am curious, why are you asking? Do you have a specific Problem with an LPG appliance (Grill, Fire Pit etc) hooked up to the Quick Disconnect? This same question has gone through my mind and I was about to actually measure the pressure, for comparison purposes , when i discover the Hose between the Quick Disconnect and the Fire Pit was under sized, problem solved.
  7. I've done a little more research regarding Auto Sway Systems, both OEM and After Market. 1. They are not intended to take the place of a WDH with Sway Control. To get the "Best Quality Ride" and the "Safest Ride," it difficult to beat a WDH with Sway Control combination! 2. Several suppliers of After Market systems confirm that these devices are compatible with WDHs. 3. I understand that some say they can Turned Off, but they aren't 100% off, just detuned> 4. Some Systems may not be compatible with all OEM Brake Controls, these are outline in their instructions. 5. The WDH's Sway Control Operating Range is expanded with a Electronic Auto Sway Control Device. 6. After Market Systems (not installed) range from $200.00 - $600.00, installation from $100.00- $400.00.
  8. We try to limit our speed to 63-65 MPH for safety reasons, and get 14-14.5 doing this. The first time we went to Florida we were in a hurry and were traveling at 70+MPH and actually got better Mileage, 15+MPG. Our TV is a GL 450 Mercedes, Gas engine. We generally drive in the Right Lane on Interstates and the Middle Lane if one is available, again for safety reasons. Caution, One of the leading causes of RV accidents is SPEED!
  9. It just dawned on me why I almost hit out Storage Box during a Max U-Turn maneuver, that other may not experience. Our TV (GL450) has a 121 Inch Wheel Base, which is probably much shorter than other TVs. This Short WB provides a much tighter Turning Radius, which is a big benefit to overall Handling, but really advantageous when Backing into a Campsite or other tight situations. Additionally, the Ball of the Andersen Hitch is extremely close to the rear Bumper, (by design) which of course bring the TV's Bumper Corners closer to the Storage Box during Jack knife Turns. This also shortens the overall Wheel Base of the TV andTrailer combination, by a few inches, which again improves Handling, etc.
  10. I am not sure if I agree with everything in Andersen's Statement! Example, from what I understand and have seen demonstrated in Videos, the Auto Sway Control System applies the Trailer's Brakes, not the TV's Brakes to counter act the Sway. As far as these systems miss-reading the inputs, because the TV is equipped with a WDH, this doesn't make any sense. We all know that most WDHs, that also have an Anti Sway Feature, are very affective at reducing Sway, Therefore, it stands to reason that the Forces are also reduced! The reduction in these Forces are read by the Auto Sway System which then sends the adjusted signals. Note, the "After Market" has two difference Auto Sway Systems, that I aware of that are available now, for around $500-$600.00. As I mentioned in an earlier Post, about 90% of newer TV with these systems cannot be turned off, and those are can be turned off, are not off 100%, but are just Detuned. I've check with two WDH manufactures, (Andersen hasn't replied yet) and they both have no such recommendation. Additionally, "Can Am Airstream," which by all accounts is the leading authority on RV Towing, says that a WDH and an Auto Sway System complement each other! I would recommend you follow the TV's recommendations!
  11. The box is screwed to the sides of the Alum Basket. I could find Exterior 1/2 Plywood, so I just use the best quality Plywood I could find and carefully painted it so it soaked in, so far so good. Yes, cleats on both sides. Thanks for asking.
  12. A Point of clarification! Everything I read all indicates, that " When you first feel a Sway Condition Starting, you apply the Trailer Brakes first to help control the situation. This is the beauty of these New Auto Sway Systems, the system knows what to do! Most Drivers don't understand this, much less have the time to think about it during a panic situation, hence an accident.
  13. Should read, However, these system are NOT intended to take the place of devices, like WDH with Sway control, the "Basic Principles of Physics," are still there!! Sorry.
  14. Our TV is a 2015 Mercedes Benz GL450, with the Gas engine, 14 MPG at 65 MPH. Sadly it doesn't have an Auto Sway System, wish it did. IMHO, one of the biggest benefits of an Oliver, is that it doesn't necessarily require a big TV. With a Loaded Tongue Weight under 600 LBS, this opens-up a lot of different TVs that can do the job! We considered another Airstream, but the models we were interested in all had higher Tongue Weights. As far as Auto Sway System are concerned, I understand that about 90% of vehicles equipped with them cannot be switched off. As "High Tech" as most TV are becoming, these system are still pretty basic in their design. They simply measure the "Basic Principles of Physics," and then apply the opposing side's Brakes to counter act these forces. However, these system are intended to take the place devices, like WDH with Sway control, the "Basic Principles of Physics," are still there!! I don't see a "Down Side," of using these Systems together with a WDH. However, you still must follow any manufactures recommendation! I've contacted several Hitch Manufactures and they didn't share any Official position with me. I am waiting to hear from Andersen. Interesting, E Trailer has an After Market Auto Sway Control device for around $600.00, not installed. I agree with your concussion, "Sounds like they might just fight each other, to the user's detriment?"
  15. IMHO, I would be careful on how I would interpret statements like this! It has been my experienced that manufactures trend to make "these types of statements," simply for legal reasons. The bottom line is, "no manufacture, the size of Andersen," can spend the money to Test their products with all the different Vehicles in the Market Place! The costs involved in this type of testing is prohibited, only the Lawyers win. So, they make these Statements to get around the Legal issues.
  16. This is the second version of the our Storage Box. I find it interesting that when we were considering an Oliver, we ruled out the Storage Basket Option, because we thought it would add to much weight to the Tongue. The used 2019 Oliver we bought already had it so we took advantage of it, after we measured the Tongue Weight to make sure it was within our TV's Specs, Loaded 580 LBS. The Box is simply 1/2 Plywood inserted inside the Aluminum Basket. Note, the Piano Hinge Top and it's Drain Tube underneath the Hinge to keep water out. The Marine Cleat is part of out "Land Yacht" theme, We lock out E Bikes to them. Note we hook the Safety Chains to the eyelet on the front when not in use. Also a Trailer Level Gauge and Electrical Cord is stored in it's holder mounted to the front. The third pic, show inside the Box. I mounted the Tools/Items we use again and again! Also on the Back panel are Stainless Steel Vents to reduce condensation build up, which they do. Finally, note the Lock/Key which are Color Coded (Yellow) to the 2 locks on the Storage Box/Tailer Hitch/E Bikes/and everything else I can think of. The Latches are from the Marine Industry, again a Nautical Theme. Note we hook the Safety Chains to the eyelet on the front when not in use. Also a Trailer
  17. I couldn't recommend a Tongue Storage Box more! We adapted the Stock Oliver Basket into a Storage Box and store our Leveling Ramps/Chocks and a few other Tools used during the Hitching process. Additionally, we store our Water Hose/Filter as well as our Shore Power Cables/Adapters. We secure this Box with Pad Locks, that are keyed the same as the Hitch Latch Lock as well as our two Electric Bikes Locks. I would estimate the total weight of items to be around 10-15 lbs. I've given the "After Market Aluminum Boxes" some serious consideration also, but because they are a little wider than the Stock Oliver Basket, (I think by 4 inches,) I am worried that they can causing a problem when you making very shape turn with the Trailer. I've come close to hitting our Stock Oliver Basket with our TV during Shape U-Turns in Parking Lots.
  18. I did and I am glad I did, the best $100.00 you will spend!. You not only get an improved Bat Wing but you also get the updated Ball Assembly with the new Friction Hold down Ring. Don't forget to add get the Tractor Supply Pin & Spring Clip at your local Tractor Supply Store, again the best $8.00 you will spend!
  19. I have for over 45 years of RV Towing experience, plus another 50 years in the "Heavy Duty Truck Industry" severing in both Service/Sales related jobs, in the USA as well as eight years overseas. One thing I've learned is that you never stop learning! Today's RVs and TVs are much different and better in many ways than ever before. However, there is no Substitute for a properly Balanced TV and Trailer combination! All the fancy Air Suspensions and Electronic Brake/Towing Stabilization Systems can't make you Safer by themselves. I assume your question is "centered around Safety" and "Handling" issues! Judging from how you asked the question, I am sure you have heard all kinds of things regarding WDH. IMO, the best WDHs are either the Hensley or the ProPride Hitches. The reason is simple, these are the only WDH that can eliminate Trailer Sway, almost 100%! Unfortunately they cannot be installed on an Oliver without substantial modifications. The bottom line is, the Andersen WDH is the only options, other than no WDH at all. Many RVERs assume that because your TV maybe able to carry the additional Rear Load and their TV is equipped with some type of magical Electronic System, they don't need a WDH. They can help, but they are still only Aids. To answer your question directly, there is no situation that I can think of, that I would be comfortable Towing any RV Trailer, regardless of Type/Size/weight without some type of either a WDH or Sway Control device!
  20. Good for you, you got Andy's recommendations, we did also! He is the Man! We also set the Andersen WDH's Initial Chain Tension Setting (Baseline is the same every time) and then make"Fine-Tuning-Adjustments," based on the Feel of the TV's Front Axle! Our TV is a Mercedes GL450 with 4 Wheel Air Suspension. The "Feel" can vary depending on the Load in either the TV or Trailer. For example, when we leave on a Trip, Loaded we will have to adjust the Chains only 1/2 Turn tighter from the "Initial-Setting" than when we return empty from the same trip empty, which is understandable. I was however surprised to learn, that such a seemly small amount of change, could make such a big difference in the way the TV Feels/Handles! By the way, we use a "3/4 Inch Thick Gauge Block," (to set the Initial-settings) which we insert over the Adjusting Screws, to measure the amount of the Screw Thread protrude outside the RED BUSHINGS. Interesting that this procedure results in the Chains not being overly tight, while providing an excellent Ride! I would encourage you to try this method for yourself, I think you will like it.
  21. IMHO, I would seriously review the need for some type of Anti-Sway device! If your TV was a Peterbuilt Semi Truck, my suggestions would be the same. I've seen videos of RV Trailer accident, when the TV was a "Dually Pick Up," but the trailer still Jack Knifed( in Snowy Road conditions) causing an accident. I would suggest that you review the "Reasons why RV Trailers" have accidents in the first place and I think you will realize that no TV is immune to having an accident! We all should better understand the "Top Reasons," for accidents and then focus on them to be safer. My philosophy is, "IF IT CAN HAPPEN IT WILL!," and I for one, I don't want to be on the receiving end! I am sure this will probably set off all kinds of Posts suggesting that you don't need a WDH or an Anti Sway Device with just a big TV. However, I think a comprehensive review of the reasons why RV Trailers have accidents in the first place, might change some minds.
  22. I've got the same Locking Pin'Ring set up, but prefer the Heavy Duty 1/4 Spring Clip. I think it is harder to accidentally fall out. I guess my point in bring this up again, is that I am surprised how just a "Simple/Inexpensive" and "Extremely Effective" Modification is, it isn't more commonly used by a larger number of Oliver owners! More to the point! You hear all kinds of complaints about how hard the Andersen Hitch is to use, (it does have its moments) but when there is something that can GREATLY IMPROVE the situation to few people use it. Go figure! I would expect this to be used by almost everyone. I've sent this idea along to Andersen for their comments.
  23. We just returned from a 4 day trip where we used the Tractor Supply Hitch Pin for the first time. I am amazed at what a huge improvement this has made! When we went to Hitch-Up, alway a trying time, the New Pin made things easy, and I mean easy! For an investment of $8.00, you get a priceless improvement! I wonder if Andersen has ever considered making this Standard Equipment or an accessory? Several of the previous Posts indicated that this idea has been around for years, but of the 28 Trailers at Alabama, I only saw one trailer using it. Of course, not all trailers used the Andersen Hitch, maybe 75% did, thats still a big number not using this Pin! I can't recommend it more, best thing since sliced bread.
  24. Here is a "Nice Tip" I got during the Oliver Rally in Alabama, which I think will make life a little easier. I don't remember the guy's name, but I think it is a great Idea, thanks! Basically, it involves replacing the original 5/8 inch Silver-Pin/Light Duty Spring Clip with the Red-Pin/Heavier Duty Spring Clip. IMHO, there are several benefits, 1. The Pin has a Handle (Red) which makes installing and removing the Pin much easier. I also elected to get a 1/4 inch Spring Clip which is much heavier than the Stock Clip, and therefore is harder to come out accidentally. 2. The 5/8 inch Pin has a Tapered Tip so it can aid in centering the Pin into the hole. 3. The Pin (p/n 269028) is available at Tractor Supply for only $4.99, the Spring Clip (p/n 268616) for $2.99. Finally, I put a light coat of Vaseline on the Pin and in the corresponding holes in the Hitch to make inserting the Pin a little easier, it won't stain your cloths either.
  25. Normally, I don't like to re-engineer things because of liability reason, but it hard to find fault with your fix. I'll consider using them. Thanks.
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