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Scuffs and light scratches can be polished out with automotive compounds, no worries. Rock chips and cracks are a whole different scenario.

There are a number of white repair epoxies that you could use in an emergency, but the results are never pleasing. A professional gelcoat repair from a boat shop would be my first choice. Doing gelcoat repairs yourself is tricky, there is a very steep learning curve, and I personally would not want to practice on my Ollie. Maybe on an old canoe or something of little value....

https://www.boatingmag.com/how-to-repair-damaged-gelcoat/

My biggest complaint is the cost of the materials: toxic solvents, epoxy resins, coloring and thickening agents, etc. In tiny DIY quantities they are expensive enough. In larger amounts (pint or quart cans) they are prohibitive. And they have a short shelf life, so you end up with a bunch of wasted materials. A pro shop has all that stuff by the gallon (and fresh), plus years of daily experience. Thirty years back when I had a big power boat and a lot less sense, I did some below-the-waterline gelcoat repairs. They worked out OK but they did NOT look that good. I won't even think about doing it myself these days.

Uber expensive marine gelcoat stuff

Plus - a shop will have a guarantee, if they screw up some repairs they will fix it at no charge. If you screw it up, you are on your own, angry and upset with yourself...

John Davies

Spokane WA

Edited by John E Davies

"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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If you are worried about future damage, and their associated costs, consider protection like flaps, films or bed liner sprays. The latter methods would cover up any existing small chips. With my Stone Stomper and chassis rock guards I only get an occasional insignificant ding way up high from stones tossed over my TV by a passing truck. None whatsoever underneath or in front below the truck roofline.

John Davies

Spokane WA

Edited by John E Davies

"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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Thanks,  John!  I saw on a previous post that showed multiple olivers on their lot.  One looked like it had that black bed liner on the propane cover and front lower section.  I'm sure that must be a permanent application but cant tell by the photo. 

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MarkC -

Yep I've taken a look at that Ollie with the black.  It is spray on truck bed liner - like "linex" or "rhino".  Before I saw it I thought that it would basically destroy the look of the camper, but, I was wrong.  While it is not something I would do (at least in black) I really didn't think it looked all that bad.

Bill

2017 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

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IMO, the clear 3M film is the best bet if you get it put on before you have any dings. Seems to look great and work well. If you go the truck liner route, which I’m sort of warming up to, then you might as well enjoy the trailer as is until you get enough dings to make you want to do something about it. I don’t think most people get to that point since they aren’t off on gravel roads. Mine isn’t anywhere near that point either, despite a little abuse.

 
I’ve spoken to Oliver about doing a round of touch up at some point. They said it’s possible but the problem is getting the color right, as it tends to change a bit over time. 

Edited by Overland

Snowball • 256 • 2018 Ford Raptor

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