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Hi all, delivery day! I am on NO sleep with dog at OTT. Orientation overwhelming as a TOTAL newbie. After lunch break, bathroom details will be explained then hitch and me trying to learn to maneuver a bit in the parking lot. Then drive-tow to Crockett SP with dog.

If anyone (mods?) would be willing to PM me with a phone number and walk me thru stuff tonight at SP I sure would be grateful. Not sure how goof the cell reception at SP is. Just a thought on NO sleep. Told them I just want to drive the Elite 1 safely to SP, connect elec, sleep. It may go down into the 20s tonight and next nights in Lawrenceburg where SP is. Tomorrow I could maybe chat with someone after sleeping or just read on my own. Like I said, new and NO sleep. TIA.

sheri

2021 Elite 1 -- Hull #731

Ram 1500 Rebel 4x4

 

 

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We can't help you with specific knowledge (we have not even been able to see an Ollie in person yet)...BUT...we are very excited for you and are sure all will be fantastic.  Enjoy!!!!!  We have been reading your posts - and they have helped us.  Thank you and, once again, enjoy!

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Just wanted to pop in a say that I hope you had a great first night as an Oliver owner! We're so excited for you and your new lifestyle. My husband has done all the towing and set up with our previous trailers in the past. I am planning to learn everything with our new trailer so that I can help with the driving on longer trips and be able to set up on my own if needed. I hope you have a great week at Davy Crockett SP! Where did you decide to stay in Texas?

Cindy

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Charlie & Cindy / Cleburne, TX / 2021 Elite II Hull #743 / 2013 Ford F250 Diesel 4WD Supercab

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Thank you all SO much. A few PMs and phone support. So much to learn as total newbie FT with big ole dawg. More later as I can. Busy day today. Learn, read, try to unhitch. Etc. Glad I booked a week at DCSP and don’t HAVE to move. Have elec going. Not gonna bother with sewer - maybe later this week. Water too. Really just need to decompress and learn hitch-unhitch (Andersen) and then how to secure things (coupler lock?) and learn lingo etc. before I anything else. So glad you are all here.

sheri

Edited by SherMica

2021 Elite 1 -- Hull #731

Ram 1500 Rebel 4x4

 

 

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Lots of best wishes. You got the Andersen, that makes your life quite a bit harder. Here is my big suggestion, if you don’t want to just use a simple $40 ball mount and ball:

Adjust the chains loosely using the two big nuts under the tongue, the ones that are at the red plastic bushings. The big socket they gave you fits on a standard 1/2” drive ratchet handle, and also on the wheel lug nut handle they gave you, but a smaller ratchet is way more convenient to use.

9BA06004-37BB-44F1-AC67-1D3412BF2340.jpeg.cabc46f11db8b397b79c28278af745bc.jpeg


If you don’t have a ratchet handle, Walmart has them cheap or or go here: .... 1/2” drive ratchet

Measure the amount of threads sticking out past the nut on each adjuster, make them fairly close to equal, so the front “whale tail” will be straight. Use a tape measure or just count the threads. Make the chains just tight enough that there is no slack in them when the front jack is off the ground when truck and trailer are level - kick one chain lightly with your foot to check - but they should not be “bar tight”. Just a little compression on those red things... You do NOT need them to be really tight with your full sized truck and small trailer. Having the trailer weight off the hitch makes adjusting them easier, but they can be moved with the full weight on them, it is just harder work...

This should make hitching up a little less traumatic, and the chains will still give excellent control over bounces that happen, such as encountering the big dip at some bridge approaches, or simply an undulating concrete highway.

Remember, if you don’t need to unhitch and the site is level, you can leave all those parts connected, but please do not drive off with the trailer jacks extended.... Hang in there. Try to enjoy it. YouTube is your best friend, if you can connect. Once the adrenaline wears off, maybe you can rest. Pictures, or it never happened! Of your doggie too.

John Davies

Spokane WA

 

Edited by John E Davies
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"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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53 minutes ago, John E Davies said:

Lots of best wishes. You got the Andersen, that makes your life quite a bit harder. Here is my big suggestion, if you don’t want to just use a simple $40 ball mount and ball:

Adjust the chains loosely using the two big nuts under the tongue, the ones that are at the red plastic bushings. The big socket they gave you fits on a standard 1/2” drive ratchet handle, and also on the wheel lug nut handle they gave you, but a smaller ratchet is way more convenient to use.

9BA06004-37BB-44F1-AC67-1D3412BF2340.jpeg.cabc46f11db8b397b79c28278af745bc.jpeg


If you don’t have a ratchet handle, Walmart has them cheap or or go here: .... 1/2” drive ratchet

Measure the amount of threads sticking out past the nut on each adjuster, make them fairly close to equal, so the front “whale tail” will be straight. Use a tape measure or just count the threads. Make the chains just tight enough that there is no slack in them when the front jack is off the ground when truck and trailer are level - kick one chain lightly with your foot to check - but they should not be “bar tight”. Just a little compression on those red things... You do NOT need them to be really tight with your full sized truck and small trailer. Having the trailer weight off the hitch makes adjusting them easier, but they can be moved with the full weight on them, it is just harder work...

This should make hitching up a little less traumatic, and the chains will still give excellent control over bounces that happen, such as encountering the big dip at some bridge approaches, or simply an undulating concrete highway.

Remember, if you don’t need to unhitch and the site is level, you can leave all those parts connected, but please do not drive off with the trailer jacks extended.... Hang in there. Try to enjoy it. YouTube is your best friend, if you can connect. Once the adrenaline wears off, maybe you can rest. Pictures, or it never happened! Of your doggie too.

John Davies

Spokane WA

 

John thank you, today I am trying to recover from stress of no sleep for a week and sick dog. I need this water out of here and cannot get handle to pull out. Tried twisting and pulling hard. Nothing. I am NOT hooked to water or sewer and will not for days if ever. Right now just need elec and to learn to hitch and unhitch and LOCK trailer tongue stuff with big yellow thing I bought so I can drive truck to Walmart and get food and supplies. Have nothing to eat etc. Will look for item you mentioned at Walmart if I get unhitched and LOCK coupler area stuff - have to leave dog alone in Ollie to do walmart.

43AB6B1E-A02B-44F6-98F5-9EB4B75DAB61.jpeg

978C73CD-D7DE-479A-BD4C-30D5B407724C.jpeg

Edited by SherMica
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2021 Elite 1 -- Hull #731

Ram 1500 Rebel 4x4

 

 

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It sounds as if you are in need of a big hug, I would give you one if I could. Consider this to be a virtual one.

John Davies

Spokane WA

Edited by John E Davies

"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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1 minute ago, John E Davies said:

It sounds as if you are in need of a big hug, I would give you one if I could. Consider this to be a virtual one.

John Davies

Spokane WA

Thank you - I assume the handle will not pull put because it is defective. I will call OTT as soon as they open.

2021 Elite 1 -- Hull #731

Ram 1500 Rebel 4x4

 

 

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Sher - 

You don't need to twist that handle - just pull it straight out towards the front of the camper.

The actual valve that you are opening is located under your forward dinette seat.  If you feel comfortable in doing so, you might want to open the "hatch" under the cushions of that seat and look to see if there is something "jamming" or "caught" in or around that valve.

Bill

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2017 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

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13 minutes ago, topgun2 said:

Sher - 

You don't need to twist that handle - just pull it straight out towards the front of the camper.

The actual valve that you are opening is located under your forward dinette seat.  If you feel comfortable in doing so, you might want to open the "hatch" under the cushions of that seat and look to see if there is something "jamming" or "caught" in or around that valve.

Bill

Yay!! Thank you!! Was not pulling hard enough! Straight out and it drained. Pushed it back closed. That ok for driving in case I figure out how to unhitch and lock “coupler area thingy” later so I can go to store (dog stays in trailer)? I am NOT hooked up to water and will NOT being using bathroom at all til MUCH later, like days or weeks LOL. Must figure out unhitching Andersen and locking trailer so I can go on errands in truck and leave Ollie/dog secure!

2021 Elite 1 -- Hull #731

Ram 1500 Rebel 4x4

 

 

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Another point and/or suggestion concerning that valve.

Yes, they can be a bit hard to open from time to time.  It helps if you "lubricate" these valves by using something similar to THIS.

I use this lube a couple of times per year.

Leave this valve closed (in) for when you drive.  With it in the closed position, any grey water that is in your grey water tank will not flow back up into your shower when it is closed.  As you now know - any water in your shower will not flow into your grey tank when this valve is closed.  Like most of us - you will forget to open/close this from time to time.  After a few episodes of getting wet feet or finding the floor of your shower a bit messy after a drive, you will pay a little more attention to this issue.

Bill

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2017 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

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