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Hissing and water coming out of 3 spots when pump is turned on!


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Ok this is concerning me!

Our fresh water tank is filled and when I turn on the pump, I hear hissing from under the bed, as well as water leaking out of 3-4 different spots under the trailer. 
 

Is something wrong? I don’t see anything in the manual about this either. Any help would be greatly appreciated. 
 

 

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2021 Oliver Legacy Elite II - Twin Bed - Hull 762 | 2018 F150 3.5L Ecoboost V6 w/ Max Tow package

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Hey jordanv, I'd say you definitely have a leak (or three) somewhere downstream of your pump.  Did you experience a deep freeze or a pressure spike in your water source? 

From your pictures of where the water is leaking (more like pouring) out, it looks like it's coming from the front portion - around the bathroom.  You may have to remove the shower caddy from the vanity to have a look at that plumbing.  There are weep holes all around the Ollie so wherever the water's coming out will help you narrow it down (assuming your Ollie is fairly level).  The blue tube is the fresh water drain so that's not likely a problem.  The other weep hole looks like it's in the back and only a drip, so perhaps some water getting back there from the "main" leak?

I know you should disconnect your battery (trip the main breaker) and if you don't see an obvious break in the plumbing somewhere, you can use compressed air to locate the "hiss" without actually doing any damage with more water.  Best of luck and keep us posted.  I have had a few plumbing leaks crop up here and there after 3K+ miles on our Ollie - but plumbing is plumbing and it all eventually leaks.  🙂

 

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2020 Elite II, Hull 688 --- 2021 Silverado 2500HD, 6.6L Duramax Diesel

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Hearing hissing and the pump not shutting off lead us to a leak... one on the lines had worked itself loose from its T fitting.. it needed to be firmly pushed back into place and has been fine since...

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Mark & Deb..2020 Elite II..Dearie..Hull #685..2016 Tundra

 

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Sounds like a line has completely severed.  I would start with the simple and look under the curb side bed for any obvious leak.  Odds are you only have one leak somewhere but it's enough to flood the basement where the scuppers are allowing it to release.

I wouldn't panic.  

Also, just curious as to whether you are using a pressure regulator on the incoming water?  

Keep us informed.

 

2 Hobos  (Paul)

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2018 Elite II, Hull #414 (the very last 2018 produced).  Trailer name "2 HOBOS" .   2006 Dodge 3500 Megacab, 4x4 with 5.9L Cummins diesel.

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While your checking out what’s going on under the curbside bed per Hobo’s advice, turn the water back on to see if you can make it leak again.. check out these connections, there are a bunch of them...  if they are leaking, try pushing the tube hard back into the T... if it’s not seated right it will sort of click back into place..


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Mark & Deb..2020 Elite II..Dearie..Hull #685..2016 Tundra

 

AZARCAFLMSNMOKPATNTXsm.jpg

 

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We had a similar issue.   The fitting on the pump outlet had vibrated loose over time.  Check all the fittings you can reach under the curbside bed and make sure they are all tight.   You said you can hear hissing under the bed so it should be pretty easy to spot the leak once you open up the access hatches. 

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2019 Oliver Legacy Elite II - Hull #461

Tow Vehicles:

Primary - 2019 Ford F-250

Backup - 2019 Nissan Armada 

 

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I have used a pressure regulator any time I have connected to city water. Anytime I’m connected to fill up the tank though I have not. Was I supposed to use a pressure regulator when filling up the tank as well?

Unfortunately this happened during night one of our 3 week trip. Just waking up to these helpful tips so I will try and see what’s going on once my wife and I are fully awake. 

2 hours ago, NCeagle said:

You may have to remove the shower caddy from the vanity to have a look at that plumbing. 

I will check this area first. Thanks! How do I remove that shower caddy?

 

1 hour ago, hobo said:

Also, just curious as to whether you are using a pressure regulator on the incoming water? 

I have used a pressure regulator when connected to city water inlet, but not when filling up the fresh water tank. Was I supposed to do that when filling up the tank as well?

2021 Oliver Legacy Elite II - Twin Bed - Hull 762 | 2018 F150 3.5L Ecoboost V6 w/ Max Tow package

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Ok found the GUSHER. 
 

Water was coming out of the top connection but pushing back in place fixed it. 
 

The connection on the right seemed fit, but water is pouring out there with pump turned on  

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I completely disconnected and reconnected all sides of this t-fitting and that seems to have fixed it. 
 

thanks for the help y’all!!!

 

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2021 Oliver Legacy Elite II - Twin Bed - Hull 762 | 2018 F150 3.5L Ecoboost V6 w/ Max Tow package

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This is one reason I prefer to not use that kind of fitting, it is super easy to make a connection, so that is good for the production line, but it relies on an inner o-ring to make a seal, and if the end of the pipe is not cut at a perfect 90 degrees or is left with a sharp burr, it can fail later. They have no place in an RV that gets beat up during towing…. They are very expensive, but for an in-the-field emergency repair they make sense for most owners. Just do it correctly or it may not end well. A copper fitting with stainless crimp rings is much better, more compact and a tenth the cost (after you have bought the correct ratcheting crimper and a PEX cutter.)

I am glad you got it fixed, but do not assume it will stay that way. 🙁 In the future if you get a significant leak turn off all shore power, 120 volts AC and water can be deadly. Use your regulator any time you connect to an unknown water source, even to fill the tank. A good adjustable “full flow” one with a gauge is better than the little brass thing that just restricts flow. Buy a BRASS 90 degree hose elbow, and place it so the regulator points towards the rear bumper, that will support the regulator and an inline Camco blue filter and keep it all off the ground and out of the dirt, while looking professional.

It’s a big learning curve, hang in there!

John Davies

Spokane WA

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"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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On the other hand, you’ve demonstrated the ease of repairing those connections. Of course, if the leak had been someplace less easily accessed, then you’d have had a very bad day. It’s a bit of a trade off, but obviously I mostly agree with John since I went through and replaced all of mine with brass and crimps.

Very glad that you were able to get things fixed so quickly.

After you’re done with your trip, you might think about doing some zip tying of plumbing and electrical wherever you can reach. I think securing those lines so that they can’t vibrate too much goes a long way to preventing those sorts of leaks.

Keeping a spare fitting or two (elbow and tee) in a drawer isn’t a bad idea either, since they can crack. 

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Welcome to the world of RV/trailer ownership, where if something isn’t loose or broken, it’s about to.  And Olivers are at the top of the quality list for trailers. Other brands have far more problems.  Unfortunately the RV industry in general just isn’t up to the same standards as the automobile industry.  

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2019 Oliver Legacy Elite II - Hull #461

Tow Vehicles:

Primary - 2019 Ford F-250

Backup - 2019 Nissan Armada 

 

ALARCODEINKSKYMONMNYNCOHOKPATNTXUTVAWVxlg.jpg.bc136094bef415679018eafd8d4046ad.jpg

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I appreciate the quick help here. I do think ill replace all of these with copper fittings once i get home. 

2021 Oliver Legacy Elite II - Twin Bed - Hull 762 | 2018 F150 3.5L Ecoboost V6 w/ Max Tow package

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