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New to Me LE2.. some questions!


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Hi there Oliver Family, 

I'm Claudia and I'm the new proud owner of hull #184!   I had the pleasure of meeting Char and inheriting their beautiful rig!  It was a bittersweet meeting in light of her recent loss but I made sure to let her know that their trailer couldn't have gone to a more impassioned owner.   I owned my Casita (OCD - obsessive casita disorder) for nearly ten years and I'm busy transferring, organizing and decorating my new home, who's now been christened 'ILOVHER'   

I'm struggling a bit with storage (believe it or not) as OCD had a rear cargo box.  Drawers are going to take getting used to as well since there is no storage under the dinette seats!  Where do y'all put pots and pans and the daggit cleaning supplies???  I'm enjoying the process but I do have a lot to learn, esp. the Andersen WDH, but I'm determined to figure it all out so I can get out and CAMP!

I realize the 'search' function is my friend and I'm very adept at that since my membership at casitaforum.com and casitaclub.com started in 2012.   I learned all I know from those amazing folks!  

OK, now.. I've dewinterized the trailer and started the process of making sure the basic appliances and water are working but I DO have a couple initial questions that I can't find. 

I had some issues with little to zero water in the bath and or toilet using the city water connection.  I studied the 'normal use' valve diagram and still couldn't get water to flow.  After removing the toilet tank supply line, I was able to clear a ton of sand and debris from the intake valve with a mirror lying on my stomach over the toilet (lets just say ~uncomfortable) using a pair of blunt tweezers!  I didn't want to take the valve off to create a leak.  The valve screen was completely blocked with dirt!  After that, I was able to get water to the toilet.  The other issue I had was the bathroom faucet needed to be taken apart and cleaned along with the pump pre-filter.   I am going to use vinegar in the lines overnight to make sure there isn't any other crud 'hanging' around...

So here are my questions: 

1.   I haven't quite figured out how to use the pump to draw water (or vinegar mix) into the fresh water tank but I've watched the video.  Do you really have to move all of your bedding to access the valves to do this??  I find that somewhat inconvenient since we have big custom mattresses.  My simple siphon method used on my Casita was easy-peasy!  Am I missing something obvious??  Do I really have to go in and out of the trailer to accomplish boondock water refilling?  Is there a simpler method?

2.   I have the city water connection hooked up streetside to the correct input and works fine at the faucets   BUT... IT IS SLOWLY FILLING THE FRESH WATER TANK TO CAPACITY THEN LEAKING OUT THE OVERFLOW under the trailer.  What would cause this??  Is there a check valve not working properly?  How do I go about repair?  PEX fitting/crimping or valve replacement is out of my realm of comfort.

3.  After flushing and scrubbing out the crud in the water heater and replacing the anode, I turned the bypass valve and filled it up.  It is working fine on electric but I haven't tried gas yet.  I am noticing an intermittent chirp/start from the pump every minute or when disconnected from city water.  Do you think I have a check valve issue in the water pump from the pressure of the dirt in the toilet valve and bathroom faucet?   I've had this on my Casita before and I just can't remember how I solved it.

Thank you for your help in advance. 

Nice to meet ya'll and I'll try not to be too much of a pest! 

Claudia and Rex Maximus 

 

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2020 Toyota Tundra TRD Sport 5.7L V8 

2017 Oliver Legacy Elite II  Hull #184 ~ "ILOVHER"

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Welcome and congratulations on acquiring #184.   I think you’ll find a lot of the issues you are having are due to mineral deposit buildup in the water lines, valves, etc. from that Ollie sitting for extended periods of time.  We met Ron and Char (Ron let us see #184 when we were making our decision to order ours).  And sadly it seemed that Ron and Char didn’t get to use their Ollie very often due to health issues.  I think their son mentioned it was only used 3 times.

To answer your question #1,  you do have to move the mattress to get to the valves under the curbside access hatch to change the valve position to “boondocking” to draw water or vinegar mix into the fresh water tank from the rear inlet.   There should be a diagram for the various valve position settings on the underside of the hatch.  If not, it’s in the manual.  


 

 

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2019 Oliver Legacy Elite II - Hull #461

Tow Vehicles:

Primary - 2019 Ford F-250

Backup - 2019 Nissan Armada 

 

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I have seen the diagram and am aware of the boondocking valve positions, I just wish I didn't have to move the mattress to get at them...sort of a pain.

2020 Toyota Tundra TRD Sport 5.7L V8 

2017 Oliver Legacy Elite II  Hull #184 ~ "ILOVHER"

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I’m not following you about the “no storage under the dinette”. The LE2 has ample space, the rear cover is screwed down and says not for storage, that is very simple to fix. Remove the screws, throw them far away, and use that area carefully for storage of DRY bath towels and similar soft non conducting items, and keep them away from any electronics. This is not Oliver Approved. That decal is there because there is 120 volts AC wiring. The front area has ample space.

https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/5272-how-to-flat-foam-storage-tray-for-the-front-dinette-seat-compartment/

For the LE2 you do need to get the mattress out of the way to access the water valves, but you can simply rotate a Twin one up 90 degrees and leave it propped against the window. We have 10” tall ones and this does work. Or you can cut a hole in the wall underneath the bed and install a swing open marine hatch, and leave the bedding undisturbed. Keep in mind, those valves are normally not needed in any way when travelling, except if you want to refill your tank using the rear boondocking port. At all other times, you won’t need to get under there. There is no easier method to transfer water, the below floor tank has no high-up fill opening like your Casita and most stick and staple ones. Water has to be sucked in using the pump.

It sounds as if you have a lot of deposits, the vinegar flush with several hours sit time should fix that. Don’t forget to include the hot water heater, it really gets crusty. Don’t do this over concrete, it will etch the surface and leave a bright area It is harmless but unsightly.

Please clarify your model, add that info and your tow vehicle as a signature to appear after your posts, to prevent confusion.

John Davies

Spokane WA

 

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"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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It sounds to me like the check valve in the pump itself is leaking.  Possibly from lack of use or the same calcium build up you've found elsewhere.  So, it could clear itself up if you're lucky, but probably you'll need to repair it.  Or, since they're not terribly expensive, just replace the pump and keep the existing one as an emergency spare - that's probably what I'd do, since it's always good to have a spare anyway.  That would be pretty easy for you to do since the connections are just plugs for the electrical and screw fittings for the plumbing.  

You can store stuff under the dinette seats, particularly the front one.  You just need to put things in containers that won't get lost between the hulls.  The one on the back, you need to be careful about the electrical and not put anything back there that will knock something loose or damage the wiring.  I don't keep anything there but some people do.

A few people have installed electric valves so that they don't have to move the mattress.  Others have installed an access port or door on the side under the bed and access that valves from there.  It was originally designed for cushions I think, which are obviously easier to pull up for access.  

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Thank you Overland!  Sounds like a good idea to just replace it since I can't seem to make the chirping stop.  

11 hours ago, John E Davies said:

I’m not following you about the “no storage under the dinette”. The LE2 has ample space, the rear cover is screwed down and says not for storage, that is very simple to fix. Remove the screws, throw them far away, and use that area carefully for storage of DRY bath towels and similar soft non conducting items, and keep them away from any electronics. This is not Oliver Approved. That decal is there because there is 120 volts AC wiring. The front area has ample space.

https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/5272-how-to-flat-foam-storage-tray-for-the-front-dinette-seat-compartment/

For the LE2 you do need to get the mattress out of the way to access the water valves, but you can simply rotate a Twin one up 90 degrees and leave it propped against the window. We have 10” tall ones and this does work. Or you can cut a hole in the wall underneath the bed and install a swing open marine hatch, and leave the bedding undisturbed. Keep in mind, those valves are normally not needed in any way when travelling, except if you want to refill your tank using the rear boondocking port. At all other times, you won’t need to get under there. There is no easier method to transfer water, the below floor tank has no high-up fill opening like your Casita and most stick and staple ones. Water has to be sucked in using the pump.

It sounds as if you have a lot of deposits, the vinegar flush with several hours sit time should fix that. Don’t forget to include the hot water heater, it really gets crusty. Don’t do this over concrete, it will etch the surface and leave a bright area It is harmless but unsightly.

Please clarify your model, add that info and your tow vehicle as a signature to appear after your posts, to prevent confusion.

John Davies

Spokane WA

 

I thank you for your reply, John.  I guess I meant there are no 'cupboards' below the seats by the dinette. I am used to having easy access there without having to remove cushions or disturb plumbing/electrical.  The other back one under the bed also requires moving a mattress...not especially convenient...except for things not used often and padded up with soft fabric boxes...   My pots and pans hopefully will stay in the drawers without popping open around curves.  Its a new trailer and new methods of organization will follow I'm sure.  

For such a young trailer, there was quite a lot of sediment inside the WH tank.   I have a valved flush wand and a brush that I've used for years on my Casita's water heater.  It's spic and span now!  My driveway is asphalt and old as dirt so no etching here!

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2020 Toyota Tundra TRD Sport 5.7L V8 

2017 Oliver Legacy Elite II  Hull #184 ~ "ILOVHER"

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30 minutes ago, csevel said:

My pots and pans hopefully will stay in the drawers without popping open around curves. 

Earlier hulls did have this problem, eventually the factory started added an extra latch at the back of each drawer. This mod will keep your drawers solidly in place regardless of how choppy the road gets.

https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2151-how-to-galley-drawer-travel-straps

John Davies

Spokane WA

 

"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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23 hours ago, csevel said:

 

So here are my questions: 

1.   I haven't quite figured out how to use the pump to draw water (or vinegar mix) into the fresh water tank but I've watched the video.  Do you really have to move all of your bedding to access the valves to do this??  I find that somewhat inconvenient since we have big custom mattresses.  My simple siphon method used on my Casita was easy-peasy!  Am I missing something obvious??  Do I really have to go in and out of the trailer to accomplish boondock water refilling?  Is there a simpler method?

2.   I have the city water connection hooked up streetside to the correct input and works fine at the faucets   BUT... IT IS SLOWLY FILLING THE FRESH WATER TANK TO CAPACITY THEN LEAKING OUT THE OVERFLOW under the trailer.  What would cause this??  Is there a check valve not working properly?  How do I go about repair?  PEX fitting/crimping or valve replacement is out of my realm of comfort.

3.  After flushing and scrubbing out the crud in the water heater and replacing the anode, I turned the bypass valve and filled it up.  It is working fine on electric but I haven't tried gas yet.  I am noticing an intermittent chirp/start from the pump every minute or when disconnected from city water.  Do you think I have a check valve issue in the water pump from the pressure of the dirt in the toilet valve and bathroom faucet?   I've had this on my Casita before and I just can't remember how I solved it

 

 

Troubleshooting over the digital domain is very Iffy. I like risk so I will have a shot.

To number 1 - Yes - I don't find it all that big a deal - but I understand.

2/3. I would guess there may be a leak or broken something - causing the slow fill - as it leaks into the bottom of the trailer. Thus the intermittent on/off of the pump - loosing pressure. Is it the check valve - hard to tell from here. 

Were it me - I would remove all the hatches - open everything, have a flashlight handy - maybe an extra set of eyes. 

Make sure the valves are set for normal operation - hook up to public water - turn on hose and observe - run all faucets, toilet etc - observe. And go from there. If one or more faucets don't flow correctly - attack each individually. With the foreign matter in the lines it will be a chore to get it all out. Try to be systematic.  Water will go where the hole is  - The valves are hard to see - but do your best. Next - if all seems ok -move to the pump system. However - a leak will show under both systems. 

Next - make sure you have water in the tank - disconnect the city water - run the pump- observe see what is happening. Make sure you have cleaned out the filter just ahead of the pump. It will have something in it - it just will. If the pump continues to chirp/cycle - you most likely have a leak - but could have an issue with the pressure switch- or air in the lines.  A few raps on the pump helped solve mine - never faltered again. If there is trash in the system - run it a bunch to flush - 

Also reset valves for boondocking fill - and follow directions - why - just make sure all works as designed - and nothing has come loos or broken.  Then return to normal configuration.

While you are at it - Under any water source - make sure the outside shower is off - turn it on, cycle both valves. If it was leaking or slightly open. close securely - and go back to pressurizing the system and observe.

 hope I wasn't too remedial - good luck.

For my money - there is a leak somewhere - the pump cycle on off is the tell.  

Guaranteed or your money back.😀

RB

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Cindy,  Russell and  "Harley dog" . Home is our little farm near Winchester TN

2018 Oliver Legacy Elite II - 2018 GMC 2500 Duramax 

"Die young - As late as possible"
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Thank you all for your replies.  I haven't nailed down the city water fresh water tank filling issue but my pump is now only chirping every five minutes.  I'm hoping it will rectify itself.  Does anyone know the difference in the models of the Shurflo 4008 series pumps?  My model number is different than some of the pumps available online.  The 4008 series has like four sub models ranging in price from 50 to 125 dollars!  Are the specs that different?  

Also, I have a new Shurflo accumulator that I was going to put on my Casita but never got around to it.  Looks like some newer trailers have one.  Is this a difficult and/or worthwhile addition?

2020 Toyota Tundra TRD Sport 5.7L V8 

2017 Oliver Legacy Elite II  Hull #184 ~ "ILOVHER"

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