SNY SD UP Posted August 18, 2023 Posted August 18, 2023 We recently ordered and received a Dometic D21 Stove Replacement. I began to install it and I see that the new stove now has the elbow facing 180° of the one that came with the trailer. In other words, the elbow faces away from, not towards the rigid copper supply line with the flared fitting that it will connect to. picture shows old stove on the bottom and new stove on the top. I believe I have 3 options; Pull out the slack (which there appears to be enough) on the original rigid copper supply line, cut and remove the existing flared fitting and use a tube bender to create a “U” curve at the end, slide on the flared fitting, re-flare the end then, reattach the flared fitting to the stove elbow. (this modifies the existing rigid copper tubing) I have some high pressure copper “K” tubing, and would basically create an extension with a “U” curve on one end which would connect to the stove elbow; the other end would then be flared with fittings to connect straight into the existing rigid copper supply line fitting. (this does NOT modify the existing rigid copper tubing) Break loose the existing elbow going into the stove (looks like red Loctite, so heat may be required), remove the elbow, clean threads and wrap with “Yellow” gas tape and tighten up, so it would face the existing connection as it did on the old stove. (this does NOT modify the existing rigid copper tubing) Yes, there are potential issues below the stove with regards towards clearances and that will be looked at before I do any cutting or routing. I believe if I make my "U" bend with 4" between the downside and upside that should work. The more I study this issue, the more I am favoring one solution over the others. Do members of the forum have any additional suggestions or comments? Bryan Maggie & Bryan | Arnegard, ND | 2020 LE II "Twins" Hull #665 | 2021 RAM 2500 6.4L HEMI Gasser 4dr 6.5' bed
CRM Posted August 18, 2023 Posted August 18, 2023 Personally, I would go the option #3 route. 1 2 2010 Elite II, Hull #45. 2014 Toyota Sequoia Platinum 4WD 5.7 with tow package.
Coastal Aggie Posted August 18, 2023 Posted August 18, 2023 personally id go with option 3. i think its more likely that its a propane rated pipe dope than loctite. 2018 F150 FX4 5.0v8 2022 Oliver Elite Hull #1285 2023 Oliver Elite Hull #1434
Moderator+ ScubaRx Posted August 19, 2023 Moderator+ Posted August 19, 2023 Turn that elbow 90 degrees tighter. It most likely does not have Loctite. 1 Steve, Tali and our dog Rocky plus our beloved dogs Storm, Lucy, Maggie and Reacher (all waiting at the Rainbow Bridge) 2008 Legacy Elite I - Outlaw Oliver, Hull #026 | 2014 Legacy Elite II - Outlaw Oliver, Hull #050 | 2022 Silverado High Country 3500HD SRW Diesel 4x4
John E Davies Posted August 19, 2023 Posted August 19, 2023 Turn it tighter until it aligns, it should turn with minimal effort... If it is very hard to move, you will have to remove it, clean the sealant from both parts, and reinstall with a proper soft pipe dope or thread tape. And always leak check your connections when finished. John Davies Spokane WA 3 SOLD 07/23 "Mouse": 2017 Legacy Elite II Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 32” LT tires, airbags, Safari snorkel, Maggiolina Grand Tour 360 Carbon RTT.
Boudicca908 Posted August 19, 2023 Posted August 19, 2023 I know nothing, no experience, but will say that I was warned by OTT not to torque too tightly on those gas lines (IF / WHEN I would try to resolve something on my gas lines) because the copper pipe is so soft. They were likely speaking from experience. I like #3 too, because it's simplest. Oliver Elite II Twin (delivered 3/28/2022) Tow Vehicle: Chevy Silverado 2500HD diesel
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